|Nov 04, 2009, 08:51 PM|
NEW KIT: DaVinci 1.5 FOAM WING AVAILABLE! 2/14/2012
More than twenty years ago, I started an RC model aircraft company called “JADE” (Jarel Aircraft Design & Engineering). Among the kits I produced were the Telos, the Shogun and a 2-meter ship called the Impulse…
I had always reached out beyond what was considered “normal” back then (I still do today!) and the Impulse was no exception, part kit, part ARF… High performance slope ship, thermal, electric… In the Model Airplane News feature review article, it was billed as a “Jack of all trades”. After the article was written, the editor noted that because it could do all things, it could not do any one thing well… Later that year, an Impulse won the CA championship races at Davenport.
20 years later, I still receive requests to bring the Impulse kit back into production but after spending those twenty years designing and building things that I was told “couldn’t be done” (notably in special effects film work as well as award winning prototypes for items ranging from action toys and shaving devices to deep sea diving cameras and a world speed record breaking recumbent bicycle, I came to realize that during those 20 years (which included a long trip to China working with manufacturers there), I had learned a LOT. Enough so, that I decided to not “re-invent” the Impulse… but instead, bring into the world, something totally new and different: The DaVinci!
The original advertising tag for the Impulse read: Everything you’ve ever dreamed of, nothing you’d ever expect”. That could easily be applied to the DaVinci 1.5 Meter sailplane and electric sailplane. (The sailplane version has some unique features that are still under development.) The design concept behind the DaVinci was that it had to be very easy and quick to build, lightweight and strong, simple to repair, look great, fly great, be adaptable, economical to purchase ($39.95!) and inexpensively replaceable ($10!).
I had a collection of old wings that had “lost” their fuselages, so it was easy to see that the DaVinci’s fuselage (the heart of the design) had to be created first. A few people at the local field saw what I was flying and wanted one. After explaining that I had only developed the fuselage, they thought that was even better than the whole kit as they had some old wings that needed fuselages as well! So instead of waiting until both (foam MH32 and built-up S4083) wings were ready for production, I decided to go ahead and offer the DaVinci 1.5 “fuselage kit”:
Here's a video of the DaVinci 1.5 set up with a foam/glass MH32 "hotliner" style wing, flying with an inexpensive ($20) Suppo motor and a TP 3S 1900mah LiPo:
Here's another video of the DaVinci 1.5 with a built up S4083 type polyhedral thermal floater with an Atlas 2308/14 motor and a "Zippy" ($6) 2S 899mah LiPo pack:
As you can see, this ship can be set up to adapt to a very wide range of flying styles.
The kit's Contents are pretty straightforward… The building is even easier! Here’s what you get:
Molded fuselage top
Molded fuselage bottom
Molded fuselage formers (3)
Molded (2-part) V-Tail mount and tail skid
Molded motor cowl
6061-T6 Aluminum boom
3/32” aircraft plywood
Full size plans and templates
Flush, removable canopy, recessed, molded servo tray (No servo rails to build!), molded boom receiver, flush mounted, removable cowl, raised fuselage guides/glue joints (Provides an easy and accurate alignment and glue joint between the top and bottom fuselage halves without any sanding or fitting!), Three fuselage formers (With built-in stringer receiver moldings and pre-aligned boom mounts), two optional wing mounts (built in), V-Tail mount with built in tail skid (Incidence and angle already built in), all molded parts requiring free-hand cutting (easily accomplished with scissors), are scribed to provide accurate trimming guides, adjustable boom provides CG adjustment without adding lead, full size plans with V-Tail, elevator, motor mount, wing mount, servo tray templates and an accurate V-Tail (106 degree) angle template tool
Production tooling is nearing completion (a couple of weeks) and a waiting list has already begun. To sign up and get more information about the DaVinci as well as our other kits, visit our website at:
|Nov 04, 2009, 08:57 PM|
Trimming the Fusealge:
Trimming the plastic parts:
The DaVinci moldings are created at just the right height so that a simple tool can be created to rim them without need for saw or sanding!
To create the trim tool used in the photos, cut two pieces of 1/8” thick balsa large enough to encase the blade per the photos (The trim tool used in the photos is made with a #2 Xacto blade and two pieces of 1/8” x ½” x 1 ¾” Balsa) Use a #2 or #24 Xacto blade or the equivalent (thicker), box cutter type blade (with enough balsa to conceal any sharp edges that might cause injury while use!) (DO NOT USE A # 11 Blade like the ones you normally use in modeling… They are too thin for this task! They will flex enough to cut off the line we want to follow!) In the photo you will see a completed trim tool behind the parts for creating another. On the left is a #2 Blade, on the right is a #11 blade… Do NOT use the #11 blade!
Using thick CA glue, sandwich the blade in between the two pieces of balsa to create your trim tool.
Using a pair of scissors, trim the bottom plastic flange to within ¼” of the plastic part to be trimmed. This does not have to be accurate; you just want the blade to reach the plastic being trimmed while the balsa handle is resting flat on the smooth worktable surface without the plastic flange keeping the blade tip from scoring the part to be trimmed. You do want a smooth surface that allows the balsa blade handle to “glide” easily along the surface without getting hung up on splinters or glue droppings.
When ready, use the BACK of the blade (That’s right, do not “cut” the plastic… you want to scribe /score the plastic!), run the flat edge along the surface LIGHTLY! (Do not attempt to cut through the plastic in only a few passes… This process does not take any force and can easily be accomplished quickly by just repeatedly scribing the plastic… in some cases you may break through, but it’s not necessary… the plastic will snap when folded back and for the a could of times. Some use of small scissors in the corners and persistent pieces may be necessary.
Watch the video as I use an old blade (Used to trim quite a few DaVinci kits already… a fresh blade would be best!) to practice trimming the canopy molding. (The canopy is cut out using a pair of small scissors following the scribe lines that are well above where we will practicing with out trim tool.)
Once you feel comfortable, trim the top and bottom fuselage halves as well as the cowling halves. Do not trim any of the other parts yet.
Note: plans read 1/8" aircraft plywood. Should read 3/32" aircraft plywood
|Nov 05, 2009, 06:40 AM|
Wow! That mini hot liner looking wing has my name on it. What a lucky (ok, hard working) guy you are - a professional toy maker. I have a new hero
|Nov 06, 2009, 11:50 AM|
DaVinci Build: Part 3 – Fuselage Formers & Servo Tray
This build thread began so quickly! Demand for the DaVinci 1.5 fuselage kit happened so soon and with so much enthusiasm before production tooling was complete for the wings that will eventually be made available. (As it is, I am just now nearing completion for the fuselage production tooling!)
Development for a kit like this (from inception to public release), takes a lot of behind the scenes preparation… One of those items is providing a materials list! Since some of these materials are going to be needed for fitting and definitely for construction in the next installments (There may be more items (like pushrods, glue, control horns etc.), here is a list of items needed to build the fuselage and tail feathers:
1ea: 3/32”x4”x1-3/4” Aircraft plywood. (SUPPLIED WITH KIT)
1ea: 1/8”x3/8”x 36” VERY HARD Balsa or Spruce (I used regular “Hard” Balsa hand picked from the rack at my LHS
Side noteIt took me so long to get what “LHS” was… Local Hobby Store” … Hey! I try to leave no stone unturned! (Which is why I appreciate questions of all sorts!)
2ea: 1/8”x3/4”x36” (or 1ea: @48”) Hard Balsa.
1ea: 1/8”x3/8”x36” Spruce.
Remove the plastic sheet containing the three fuselage formers from the box. As you did with the two fuselage shells cut the extra plastic flange from the former moldings to within ¼” of the former. (Save all plastic! You can always use it for repairs or other modeling projects!)
Take you trimming tool (used to trim your fuselage shells) and trim the formers from the flange. Do so to all three formers. You will have to turn the tool over to be able to scribe in the correct direction inside the corners…
CAUTION: READ THIS FIRST! Sharp blades can be dangerous! Take your time! Remember that you are using a VERY SHARP IMPROVIZED tool! These formers are much smaller than the fuselage shells and harder to hold. Trying to hold them down can easily lead to accidentally placing your fingers in the path of the trim tool blade should you slip! (I have many scars to show for this easy bit of forgetfulness, some have required stitches! In fact, trying to be quick during the trimming demo video cost me some blood! It may not show, but at some point, when I lifted the plastic shell up to free-hand trim with the Xacto blade handle (something I had not planned to do), I stabbed my finger that was inside the shell, out of view! Some of the worst flesh wounds have come from working at a time where there was the least expectation of harm or while I was in a hurry! The sound of a table saw, a grinder or band saw gives us an audio warning to be careful… A small (quiet), razorblade encapsulated in a small wooden handle presents more of an opportunity to hurt yourself! CONSIDER YOURSELF WARNED!
Ok… Trim the three fuselage formers per the photos, (Do not cut or trim the inside tube molding or main former opening yet!) Using a sanding block or sandpaper on a flat table/surface, sand the former edges smooth (nothing fancy, just de-burr any edges that were left rough… 150# sandpaper is fine).
Next cut the tube molding per the photo. Note that there is a small flange left! (Do NOT cut this flange away! It will be used to grab onto the tail boom by stretching tightly around it once inserted… Try pushing the tube in and see how it fits… if it’s too tight, cut a little more away, if it fits by having to slightly force it on. Then it’s just right! Even if you cut too much away, glue will fill the rest later.)
Next, take a small square file or rectangular file that has teeth on two edges to create a corner. Use the file to sharpen the inside corners of the rectangular recess on the two larger formers per the photos… This is where a 1/8” x 3/8” hard Balsa or Spruce fuselage stringer will be mounted (later in the build). As with all joints in most kits, the tighter the fit, the better (without distorting the plastic to do so!)!
If you are CERTAIN as to where your servos will be mounted, go ahead and use the pattern on the servo tray template to do so. (Personally, I would WAIT until you really need to. Wait until you have no choice to do so in order to proceed… I just felt this was the time to show you how to, not necessarily to do it now. Decisions like where you plan to plug what battery into your power system will determine what you decide to do… I will post some close up photos on the two very different cockpit arrangements I have on the two DaVinci planes flown in the video… this will offer a lot of information for you to use in deciding what goes where.)
In the next installment, we will build the former/stinger assembly including the plywood motor mount. For those of you who already have your DaVinci kits (no one at the time of this writing.), please do not proceed until you’ve looked over the entire build thread… This kit is so easy to build, but following the instructions in the order they are installed here is so important… Case in point… If you’ve already tried to fit your top and bottom fuselage shells, you will note that the nose does not fit quite right… YET! There is another step to trim off a very small edge at the motor mount so that it is flush (top to bottom), the rest of the fuselage is designed so the top shell fits “over” the bottom shell.
|Nov 06, 2009, 02:12 PM|
Servo Placement & Servo Tray Trimming:
Here are two photos (pasted up so you can have them both up on the screen at the same time for comparison):
Both are using the Hextronic HXT 900 9gram servos (similar to the HitecHS-55 line of similar sized servos).
The top photo is of the "hotliner" aileron winged, DaVinci 1.5. In order to be able to create this build log and show two different possibilities, I chose to use one servo to operate the V-Tail as an elevator only. (There is room for a second servo mounted behind the first (if you were to want V-Tail mixing.) although I might move the existing one about 1/4" forward. The opening at the rear section of the servo tray molding is to provide entry for the larger battery pack so that the plug will come through and allow connecting after the wing has been mounted. (By the way, I just did some research an additional battery options and there are some great ones! 2100ma with 50C in the $20 - $30 range! (I'll post the list and vendor later on... (Remind me if I forget!) lol!
The bottom photo shows the Polyhedral version of the DaVinci 1.5 where both elevator and rudder were needed. If you don't have a V-Tail mixing radio, don't worry, I used a tiny, inexpensive ($10) on-board V-Tail mixer that works great and adds no significant weight.
In this version, I mounted the receiver behind the LE edge along with the ESC, (NOTE: TO avoid RF interference, I have since moved the ESC forward behind the motor!) Also while on this subject ( I will mention it several times through out the build!) DO NOT RUN YOUR RX ANTENNA WIRE THROUGH THE BOOM!!! ALUMINUM (AS WELL AS CARBON FIBER) WILL INTERFERE WITH RECEPTION!!!!!)
So there you have it... hopefully this photo and description will provide you with enough information to decide where you want to mount your servos...
PS: The opening at the forward section of the servo tray/cockpit, is to gain access with a ball end hex driver to tighten up the motor mount screws... the need will vary with the tools you use... Special note: With plastics, it is wise to leave all openings with rounded corners... stress gathers at sharp corners and in the event of a heavy impact, a sharp edged cut out will be more likely to break thatn a round one which will disperse the stress generated during impact away and out from the area...
Next installment on Monday!
Have a great weekend!
|Nov 08, 2009, 02:03 PM|
Formers, stringers, motor mount and shells:
Building Part #4: Building the internal structure:
The DaVinci electric fuselage is supported by an internal structure made up of 3 plastic fuselage formers, one 3/32” aircraft plywood motor mount doubler and two 1/8”x 3/8”x 13-3/16” Hard Balsa (or Spruce) stringers. (So far, all DaVinci prototypes as well as the production versions featured in the videos have used hard balsa stringers.)
Study the photos carefully (before you begin!), to get familiar with the construction and placement of parts. This build is really easy, but I am learning that when it looks this easy, many builders proceed (on their own), and can miss some of the details.
First, fit the three plastic fuselage formers onto the aluminum boom with the largest former at the forward end, the middle sized one in the middle and the smallest, furthest as shown in photo #10. (All “open” ends should be facing forward). Approximate distances between them are: 5/18” from the largest to the middle and 1-5/8” between the middle to the smallest per photo # 9 (Boom is not shown in photo #9. DO NOT GLUE ANYTHING YET!)
Next: Using the full size template on your plans use the pattern for the motor mount to cut out this part from the 3/32” aircraft plywood supplied in your kit (If you are planning to use wing bolts to hole your wing in place, make certain to leave room for the two wing mount doublers. (It would be handy to photocopy the plans so that you have several extras. Or you can just download and print any extras you might want from this thread). The top of the motor mount is as it is printed on the full size plans. (The narrower “egg-shaped” part is the top. The fuller, rounder end is the bottom.)
Per photos #1 and #2, trim the forward motor mount area of the BOTTOM fuselage shell so that when the formers and plywood motor mount are inserted into the fuselage and the top and bottom shells are brought down together, this notch cut into the bottom shell sits flush per photos #7 and #8.
Next, notch the two Balsa or Spruce stringers so that they conform to photo #4. The curved notch will slip inside (under) the lip of the last (most rearward) former per photo #5.
Next: Per photo #6, notch the two ends of your Balsa or Spruce stringers so that they accept the motor mount per photos #7 & #8. (DO NOT GLUE ANYTHING YET!) Dry fit all the pieces using masking tape to hold the two fuselage shells around the wood stringer/plastic former assembly until you are satisfied with the fit. At this pint you may find yourself moving the plastic formers to fit snugly (top to bottom) within the plastic fuselage shell “sandwich”. The plywood former must fit flush to the plastic motor mount and the larges former must fit flush against the leading edge section inside the top former. All other former positioning is based on creating a nice, tight fit throughout the structure.
Once you are satisfied with the fit, glue the formers and the plywood motor mount doubler to the stringers per photo #9. Do not glue them to the boom nor to the top of bottom fuselage shells!
NOTE: In these photos you will find me using black glue. This a thick CA available from your LHS and it tends to provide stronger, less brittle bonds while building up enough mass to act as gussets making joints like the stringer to plywood motor mount much stronger… all other joints are glued with a thick CA and appear clear or non-existent.
NOTE: You may notice that the motor mount has been drilled at this point… Wait until further instructions to do so… these photos were taken for clarity and after I had proven that the steps work in the order presented to you. If the text does instruct you to do something you see… DON’T DO IT! In this case, we will fit the motor and drill the motor mount later!
After all these steps have been completed, sand ALL parts that will be bonded together using 150grt paper to roughen up the plastic and provide a “mechanical” bond. This is a bond where the actual chemistry of the plastic and glue does not bond the way MEK or Acetone (DO NOT ATTEMPT EITHER!!!) actually “melt” or “weld” the plastic together. By rough sanding plastic parts, you insure that besides the chemical bond of the glue, a stronger “keyed” mechanical bond has been created. This includes sanding the outside edges of the formers and inside sections of the fuselage shells where they will be glued. The pencil marks on the inside of the fuselage shells in photo #9 provide an example of how I marked the shells for sanding once the former and stringer structure had been fitted and then glued.
DO NOT GLUE THE FUSELAGE SHELLS TOGHETHER YET!
|Nov 08, 2009, 02:22 PM|
OK... I'm getting a LOT of orders for this kit... almost everybody understands that this is a fuselage kit not including wings. (Some of you are ordering multiple DaVinci 1.5 kits having several wings laying around needing homes.)
Some of you want this kit but are wanting wings as well.
At this point I have started putting together a build thread for the polyhedral 1.5 meter (60" S4083 wing)... This build thread will come with a down loadable (free) set of rib templates so that you can scratch build this wing. For those of you who have done this before, it will be a walk through the park...
For those of you who have never built a wing before, I will make sure that your first time building a wing is also a walk through the park!
I will cover everything needed to build this wing and will provide plastic wing tips for sale as well as show you how to make your own from balsa block. Although it is not needed, I will also cover how to add Carbon Fiber (available at your LHS) to re-enforce your wing spars as well as installing brass joiner tubes and Carbon or steel rod joiner at the wing root making this a complete kit that can pack up really small for transport and storage!
This wing build thread will begin here after we have finished building the fuselage, boom and tail feathers.
For those of you who want the faster aileron wing, I will also host a build thread for a wood/build up version of that wing. I've not built a wood built up wing designed to take the stresses (high g's) encountered in the fast turns and dive recoveries at the speeds you've seen this ship fly, but it should be fun and will provide the opportunity to maybe even install flaps (four servos) , for "Crow-landing" configuration... Not that it needs it... You've seen how slow it lands without flaps, but it sure would be fun and provide some great in site into what is possible building wings from scratch. I've not looked into it, but so far, the MH32 (Used in the videos), MH42 and RG15 are airfoil contenders for this one.
Once the polyhedral wing has been prototyped. tested and proven, I will send out the templates for CAD conversion and laser cutting. This will allow me to offer a complete DaVinci 1/5 kit in this configuration. The foam wings will take a little more time as (some of you already know), I'm re-building a multi-wire wing cutting machine I invented back in LA but lost during the move to Oregon along with templates, drawings and photos... I remember it in my head and remembered it working wonderfully... I just have to extract the data and build a new one! Once that has been completed, I will be offering the DaVinci 1.5 with foam cores.
I hope this helps!
PS: development on the self skinning foam rubber nosed sailplane/slope version is still in development and will fit these wings as well!
|Nov 10, 2009, 05:21 PM|
#5: Wing Mounting:
Post #5: Rubber band wing mount:
This next procedure is only for those wanting a rubber band wing mount for polyhedral type wings…! If you are building a trainer style aileron wing (not high performance!), you could apply this mount there as well…
If you are even thinking about using it for the high speed wing we’ll be building later on in this build or the stock foam wing that will accompany the “deluxe” kit at the beginning of next year… DON’T EVEN THINK ABOUT IT!!!! At the high speeds the DaVinci is capable of attaining, the wings will rip off at the beginning of your first turn!
(The next building thread post (after this one), will cover a two-bolt wing mount for the high performance end of the DaVinci’s capabilities.)
Use an Xacto blade or rotary tool to open up the top part of the forward fuselage former per photos #6 (Marked in black).
Next Per the lines drawn on the fuselage/wing saddle area in photo #3, mark the trailing edge of the particular wing you plan to use… (The Root chord for the stock polyhedral wing we will be building here later is 7-3/4” behind the Leading Edge vertical molding at the forward end of the wing saddle. The CENTER-line (not the horizontal line shown!) is 5/16” down from the top of the wing saddle surface.
The dowel I sued for the rear rubber band hold down pin is 3/16” x 1-1/2” long.
Per photograph #1, rough sand a scarp piece of plastic and the inside of the top fuselage shell. Cut and shape (just bend with your fingers) two small pieces to surround the area we will drill later for the dowel. These two pieces will serve as doublers, strengthening the area. Another view of both installed along with the dowel, is shown in photo #2. Glue the plastic pieces in place using either black CA or thick gap filling CA. throughout this build use as little kicker as possible as it weakens the plastic a little.
Once the doublers are in place, mark and drill the two sides (using the next size down of drill bit so that it is a tight fit not requiring glue… if it isn’t don’t worry about it and glue it in place… a loose one can easily be replaced if broken. Round off the ends of the dowels and slide it in… as per photo #3.
Using a drill, rotary tool and/or Xacto knife and round file, create the slots shown in photos #4 & #5 at eh Leading Edge vertical molding between the wing saddle and the servo tray area. The goal is to be able to easily insert a converted tongue depressor (see photo #7) and two #64 rubber bands (see photo #8) through the two slots… keep the edges round… sharp corners help induce stress cracking. A slot with rounded edges is vastly stronger than one with sharp corners!
By now, you’ve probably already taken the initiative to create the rubber band insertion stick? Great!
Photo #9 shows the rubber bands in place using a 3/16” x 3/4” dowel in the servo tray area to retain the forward end of the rubber bands.
Photo #10 shows how the rubber bands will hold down the wing.
Photo #11 shows how the canopy will hide much of the rubber bands creating an aerodynamic and sleeker looking wing mount.
Next build thread post will cover the two-bolt wing mount system.
|Nov 10, 2009, 05:55 PM|
Behind the Scenes:
Just in case anyone is interested in seeing what it takes to create the molds for this kit, I've been participating at the following thread:
Particularly post #40 #60 and beyond... the photos show one of my vacuum formers working creating ICON parts and the original plugs for the DaVinci being transformed through platinum based silicon mold production to the high temp production bucks that will be used to produce these kits... kind of behing date wise, but at least you'll get a glimpse at what I have been doing while continuing this thread....
|Nov 10, 2009, 08:38 PM|
REVISIONS! and introducing my local "Beta" builder:
Well, it's interesting... I came here to add a detail I forgot in the last post to find a private message with more "news"
First let me introduce "Tarant" aka Jayme... Jayme and I met a long time ago as one of the great guys that work at Al's Cycle and Hobbies (Our local hobby shop here in Medford, Oregon). Great place, Great owner and great group of guys... all of them!!! Helpful and informative in every way imaginable! I've rarely gone in needing something and not walked away with it in my hands... and when they don't have it... they get it fast! With the other prototype work I produce, getting what I need, when I absolutely have to have it means the difference between... well... you know!
So that's where I met Jayme! He's a great modeler, talented, smart and has a long history building all sorts of models... For reasons I wont get into he fit the bill for what I look for in a Beta Builder/Instruction tester... The reason he's here adding to my posts is that he is local and we can go over anything that might need tooling modification more easily. There have been other Beta builders out there that are just as talented and others who have asked and I've looked into their blogs and posts before asking them to share a little more about themselves... If you find I've contacted you and seem way detailed in my questions, it's because I take what I do very seriously and hold on fiercly to this dream of building up Jarel Aircraft Design... (Jayme may share with you some of the "other projects" he's seen me take into his shop... trust me, Given the time, I have a LOT more kits coming next year!
Anyway, many modelers can build even without the instructions, They are truly talented and I appreciate that kind of talent, but to be on the lookout and aware enough to understand how important instructions are, I look for someone who can build on their own while following "my style" and willing and capable (This may sound weird, but it is a talent) to follow my instructions even when they are wrong to test them to failure and hopefully catch the error before they (or anyone else) does it wrong... Not just skip over the detail because the kit is so easy to build (especially with a kit like the DaVinci!)... Or to be so picky as to ask questions that just don't fit the broad demographics of the level of builder that would encounter a particular kit... as well as watching the order of assembly and realizing there might be an easier way if something was done before something else... To do this in a way that is not annoying AND yet, call me on it... This is a talent that is hard to find.... Plus, he's just a really great guy! Positive and cheerful!
So... this brings us to a detail like the one he brought to my attention this evening! (further down in this post along with a second omission I discovered in reviewing what I had just posted) Yes, I re-read and review the photos with the plane in my hand trying to 'test out" the instructions to make sure they're clear and that they work... (No wonder I don't get enough sleep!
So what we are going to do here is turn this into a dual build, here in front of you so that you can get a better idea of what goes into preparing these build threads, besides the countless hours of setting up lights and special camera mounts to photograph the images you see here... (Even more time spent in photo shop, clearing photos, burning shadows and sharpening images... !)
There have been several DaVinci kits built using these instructions and methods, but Jayme is here to test them to death! Well. if I want to get this right, it has to pass a LOT of tests...
Since no one else has their kit yet, this is the perfect time for the final "proofing"...
I came on line tonight to add a detail (I'll go back to the post and edit it in...) In the last build post, I mentioned two plastic doublers for the rear rubber band pin support... What I didn't note was that they were each 1-1/4" X 1/2"...
The thing Jayme caught was that in the kit I gave him and all the prototypes that have been previously built, I used 3/32" aircraft ply... But on the plans posted here and already printed to the tune of 200 copies! , I have 1/8" ply written... it doesn't really make that much of a difference, but it is a mistake and it could have made a difference... (I'll have to go back and double check the kit contents parts listing as well as the wood listing to see what I have written there as well, not to mention proof reading the text of each post so far... Whew!
Ok... so, not sure when, but when "Tarant" (Jayme), shows up here, know that he has my confidence and I trust what he's doing... We may even learn some new tricks!
Ok... so that's it for now!
I should have photos of the final DaVinci High Temp tooling in the next day or two... Once the boxes and aluminum tubing arrives, I'll be sending out notices to the first 50 on the list (yes... it's a LONG list! Longer than I ever thought...) whew!
|Nov 10, 2009, 10:36 PM|
Joined Oct 2008
Thank You Richard!
Hello my name is Jayme, I am here as a "Beta" tester for Richard of Jarel Design.
My background is not nearly as exciting as Richards (visit his web sites if you have a few minutes to spare) but I try. I got started in RC Cars and after getting hired by the LHS I switched to plastic/resin models, that is what I do for a hobby. Well after a while I had to have something that flies and gliders seemed to be right up my alley.
By no means am I an expert in anything and I don’t claim to be, however I am not without experience, I have built and flown a few “traditional balsa kits” in the last year or two but after seeing and talking to Richard about the DaVinci I wanted one. And after seeing some of Richards other planes and projects (some of which you can see on his website and some you cannot but will have to take my word for it) I new I was in for a real treat.
The reason I like the DiVinci is because it is unlike any other glider out there, from the size to the materials used it is unique and that is what I like about it.
His planes just have a cool contemporary look and feel.
The DaVinci 1.5 Electric Sailplane Fuselage Kit is what I was given and that is what I will be building and testing, I am not here to do a review or a build thread. So what will I be doing? Simply building alongside Richard to work out any of the bugs in the instructions or the kit, providing a “Different” set of eyes and opinions.
I really do feel privileged that Richard chose me for this task and I hope I don’t disappoint. I will have some pictures and more thoughts on the build tomorrow.
|Nov 12, 2009, 12:02 PM|
Post 6: Wing bolt method of wing mounting:
Installing a wing bolt, wing mounting system:
A tandem-bolted, wing mount is a MUST for high speed or aerobatic, high performance wings! Although I had a box with thousands of 1/4x20 nylons screws (inventory for other kits), I chose 10x32 nylon screws hoping they would do their job on impact, which is to break before allowing the wing of fuselage to break during a hard impact.
Following the templates on your full size plans, cut the two wing mount doublers from the 3/32” aircraft plywood that is included in your DaVinci kit. Following the photographs, measure, locate, fit and glue the two formers so that the forward plywood doubler is up against the back of the forward plastic former. Locate the rear plywood doubler so that it is up against the middle plastic former. Use gap filling CA or thick, black CA to glue them in place… DO NOT glue the formers in yet!)
In the photos, I added an extra piece of plywood. This is not necessary but an option if you think you want some added strength… We will be tapping through the plastic and the two doublers to create threaded receivers for the nylon wing bolts. Another option would be to use 10x32 ‘Tee” nuts… If the Tee nuts are your choice, then you must have the wing to be used built at this point so that you can line up the wing mounting holes to the fuselage and install the Tee nuts… (The rear compartment will NOT be accessible after the fuselage is completed… For this reason, I choose to tap (thread) the plywood afterwards as there are often time where Tee nuts come loose… if this happens at the rear mount, I have no idea how one would go about re-installing it once the fuselage halves are joined.)
IF YOU DO NOT HAVE YOUR WING READY, DO NOT DRILL OR TAP THE WING BOLT HOLES AT THIS TIME!
In the next build thread post, we move on to installing two different kinds (and sizes) of Brushless motors!
|Nov 13, 2009, 10:29 PM|
Joined Oct 2008
Okay, First off I apologies for not getting some photos up sooner. Things are a little hectic lately.
I started the build Monday and worked on it a little each night so far this thing is coming along great. With the instructions and the great build photos make this build pretty darn easy, not quite a cakewalk but close. The build is in no way difficult, just different.
Here are a few pics just to show that I am not lying
This is how i recived my test kit.
Scoring the parts and folding the edge worked out great. One thing I noticed is after you score the part several times turn the piece over and hold the part up to a light source and if you scored deep enough their will be a visible white line around the part. The first time I scored wasn’t deep enough the fold didn’t brake cleanly, not a huge deal since it was easily fixed with a xacto knife.
So far everything else went together with ease.
|Nov 17, 2009, 03:51 PM|
diff btwn these 3 foils..
. I've not looked into it, but so far, the MH32 (Used in the videos), MH42 and RG15 are airfoil contenders for this one.
If you have time Richard..what would the diff btwn these foils be? da vinci looks sweet already with the mh32 used in the videos
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