My 1/72 Revell build - Gato Class USS Cobia - Page 2

expfcwintergreen · Nov 03, 2009, 12:40 PM

Looks good Dave!
Any issues with the flexible boots collapsing under pressure? I heard someone mention it once as a potential issue, but they looks like a nice cost-effective option.
Chris

POLARISDAVE · Nov 03, 2009, 12:54 PM

so far i have only had my sub about 5 feet under water and no leaking around the boots.Lol i have a torp in my garage with a big fish hook in the end and i can shoot it about 15 feet through the water with good acuracy so next step is to install wireless cam i have 20lb fishing line in bow hope to spear a fish and see who wins.

Steve2381 · Nov 03, 2009, 02:01 PM

I am using 3/32 rod for my actuators. I am going to experiment with a length of brass tube filled with a little grease, then a rubber ring compressed at either end. Going to have to find that point that is watertight but not a drag on the operating rod.

My other issue is I do not have access to a lathe, so I am going to have to come up with another way of making end caps for my WTC.

I was thinking of having a working torpedo system. What do you make your torpedos out of? Brass tube I am guessing.

When someone is feeling bored, feel free to post up how to make a torpedo system!

I am going to post up my opening bow torpedo doors system - once it works that is.

Steve

herrmill · Nov 03, 2009, 05:02 PM

Eduards's website is http://www.eduard.cz

You can buy end caps from Rogue Subworks: http://www.roguesubworks.com

There is a thread over at RCU on endcaps. I gets quite comical at times but does offer some options: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9111472/tm.htm

rcshirt · Nov 03, 2009, 05:46 PM

wacthing this

jaguar75 · Nov 03, 2009, 07:28 PM

Hi Herrmill,
Lots of submariners consider me rocking the boat and beating a dead horse.
Even my friend Mike Dory is probably wanting to say just build it!
I have always designed things to be a little different but isn't it interesting to create a different design sometimes?
I will be the first to admit a design mistake if and when I make one.
Thomas Edison made lots of defective devices to get one good invention.
I have made a mistake with the 4.5" clear pvc pipe.It is very crudely extruded but that is the inherent problem in the larger size pvc pipes.
I extrude flexible tubing for our solar systems and the heavier the material gets the harder it is to control the wall thickness.
I have sourced out some 4"O.D. x 1/4" wall polycarb pipe which has very good wall tolerences and is good for machining inside threads for the threaded end-plugs.I have decided to use pvc end-plugs with aluminum motor mounts with bearing/seals/shaft housings all-in-one.It will be similar to the Engel motor mount but with o-rings on the outside of the shaft housing so it can be inserted into bores in the pvc end-plugs.This will keep the motor and propshaft perfectly aligned.

herrmill · Nov 03, 2009, 07:33 PM

I've always been a firm believer in rocking the boat.

jaguar75 · Nov 03, 2009, 07:37 PM

I really like the 2-1/8" x 9" threaded plug scuba container design.
It goes down to a 200ft. depth and easily unthreads with the Acme standard threads.

Steve2381 · Nov 04, 2009, 01:44 PM

Interesting stuff.

I have a few ideas for the end plugs for the WTC. I think I am going to subdivide my WTC into 3 seperate compartments.
2 compartments will house electronics and the compressed air (one forward and one aft).
Then there will be a slightly larger diameter centre ballast tank. Mainly because the centre of the sub is wider!
Then I will link them with flexible air pipe.

The bow torpedo doors are proving a real pain. There just isn't any room in there to get hinges on the doors.
The real Balao doors slide behind the angled recess on the front, but there is no chance of that on this model.

I am going for the best I can get!
As soon as I have some pictures worth looking at, I will post them up.
I will show a view of the torpedo 'room' framework that supports my six tubes.

The Balao doors are pictured below.... ever wish you hadn't decided on a particular feature!

My other question is what actually raised on the periscope. There is quite a lot of kit on that tower and its not immediately clear what parts actually would be able to rise.
I know it has a standard periscope and a battle scope. Any onfo would be great.

Steve

herrmill · Nov 04, 2009, 03:48 PM

Try USN Fleet Submarines of WW2

Steve2381 · Nov 08, 2009, 06:24 AM

Ok. Finally got these bow torpedo doors sorted. Took much longer than planned. Damn finddly but the result was worth the work I hope.
Not identical to the original.... but as near as I can get them with the tiny space there is to work in.
The real ones slide forward and behind the bow but that just isn't happening at this scale (and I tried). I am happy with this..... so move on!

Youtube clip of doors here if your interested...

Bow torpedo doors (0 min 30 sec)

Now onto the bow planes!

herrmill · Nov 08, 2009, 02:09 PM

Very nice work, Steve.

What did you use for hinges on the front of the shutters?

Steve2381 · Nov 08, 2009, 03:29 PM

I made hinges out of small brass rod, bent into shape and pivoted in brass tube.
Tried all sorts of hinges to start. I was hoping to use model aircraft rudder hinges with the pin replaced with brass, but they would not fit in.
The doors are held closed by a brass cam system on a central rod.
Then, tiny magnets (encased in epoxy) pull the doors open as the cam moves out of the way.
They snap open really nicely and the servo will be geared back to slow the opening.
The tubes are slightly angled so that a torpedo can get a clean exit.

Steve2381 · Nov 10, 2009, 03:05 PM

What diameter acrylic pipe are people using for the Gato? I cut the top out of the hull and its only 55/60 mm wide (approx). Ok, allowing for the fact that you can bend it open further, that still isn't a very large WTC.
I know a few people have cut the hull much further down and put a nearly full width pipe in, but I don't want to hack that part of the hull.

Cheers, Steve

HYDROJERRY · Nov 10, 2009, 03:48 PM

steve2381 was your GATO just a model, im interested in maybe building one how mutch and where did you get the model. seen the 52'' model for 89.00$.

Nov 03, 2009, 12:54 PM	#17
POLARISDAVE polarisdave Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: saskatoon Posts: 52	boots so far i have only had my sub about 5 feet under water and no leaking around the boots.Lol i have a torp in my garage with a big fish hook in the end and i can shoot it about 15 feet through the water with good acuracy so next step is to install wireless cam i have 20lb fishing line in bow hope to spear a fish and see who wins.

Nov 03, 2009, 07:28 PM	#21
jaguar75 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 343	Comedy Central Hi Herrmill, Lots of submariners consider me rocking the boat and beating a dead horse. Even my friend Mike Dory is probably wanting to say just build it! I have always designed things to be a little different but isn't it interesting to create a different design sometimes? I will be the first to admit a design mistake if and when I make one. Thomas Edison made lots of defective devices to get one good invention. I have made a mistake with the 4.5" clear pvc pipe.It is very crudely extruded but that is the inherent problem in the larger size pvc pipes. I extrude flexible tubing for our solar systems and the heavier the material gets the harder it is to control the wall thickness. I have sourced out some 4"O.D. x 1/4" wall polycarb pipe which has very good wall tolerences and is good for machining inside threads for the threaded end-plugs.I have decided to use pvc end-plugs with aluminum motor mounts with bearing/seals/shaft housings all-in-one.It will be similar to the Engel motor mount but with o-rings on the outside of the shaft housing so it can be inserted into bores in the pvc end-plugs.This will keep the motor and propshaft perfectly aligned. Attached Thumbnails 19.6 KB · Views: 29 21.9 KB · Views: 31 Last edited by jaguar75; Nov 03, 2009 at 07:34 PM.

Nov 03, 2009, 07:37 PM	#23
jaguar75 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 343	Wtc I really like the 2-1/8" x 9" threaded plug scuba container design. It goes down to a 200ft. depth and easily unthreads with the Acme standard threads. Attached Thumbnails 19.5 KB · Views: 37

Nov 04, 2009, 01:44 PM	#24
Steve2381 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 22	Interesting stuff. I have a few ideas for the end plugs for the WTC. I think I am going to subdivide my WTC into 3 seperate compartments. 2 compartments will house electronics and the compressed air (one forward and one aft). Then there will be a slightly larger diameter centre ballast tank. Mainly because the centre of the sub is wider! Then I will link them with flexible air pipe. The bow torpedo doors are proving a real pain. There just isn't any room in there to get hinges on the doors. The real Balao doors slide behind the angled recess on the front, but there is no chance of that on this model. I am going for the best I can get! As soon as I have some pictures worth looking at, I will post them up. I will show a view of the torpedo 'room' framework that supports my six tubes. The Balao doors are pictured below.... ever wish you hadn't decided on a particular feature! My other question is what actually raised on the periscope. There is quite a lot of kit on that tower and its not immediately clear what parts actually would be able to rise. I know it has a standard periscope and a battle scope. Any onfo would be great. Steve Attached Thumbnails 11.6 KB · Views: 41 11.4 KB · Views: 32

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Nov 03, 2009, 12:40 PM	#16
expfcwintergreen N00B Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Boston, MA Posts: 156	Looks good Dave! Any issues with the flexible boots collapsing under pressure? I heard someone mention it once as a potential issue, but they looks like a nice cost-effective option. Chris

Nov 03, 2009, 02:01 PM	#18
Steve2381 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 22	I am using 3/32 rod for my actuators. I am going to experiment with a length of brass tube filled with a little grease, then a rubber ring compressed at either end. Going to have to find that point that is watertight but not a drag on the operating rod. My other issue is I do not have access to a lathe, so I am going to have to come up with another way of making end caps for my WTC. I was thinking of having a working torpedo system. What do you make your torpedos out of? Brass tube I am guessing. When someone is feeling bored, feel free to post up how to make a torpedo system! I am going to post up my opening bow torpedo doors system - once it works that is. Steve

Nov 03, 2009, 05:02 PM	#19
herrmill Shanghai'd Expat Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Xiaoshan, China Posts: 2,425	Eduards's website is http://www.eduard.cz You can buy end caps from Rogue Subworks: http://www.roguesubworks.com There is a thread over at RCU on endcaps. I gets quite comical at times but does offer some options: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9111472/tm.htm

Nov 03, 2009, 05:46 PM	#20
rcshirt Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: tampa, florida Posts: 24	wacthing this

Nov 03, 2009, 07:33 PM	#22
herrmill Shanghai'd Expat Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Xiaoshan, China Posts: 2,425	I've always been a firm believer in rocking the boat.

Nov 04, 2009, 03:48 PM	#25
herrmill Shanghai'd Expat Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Xiaoshan, China Posts: 2,425	Try USN Fleet Submarines of WW2

Nov 08, 2009, 02:09 PM	#27
herrmill Shanghai'd Expat Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Xiaoshan, China Posts: 2,425	Very nice work, Steve. What did you use for hinges on the front of the shutters?

Nov 08, 2009, 03:29 PM	#28
Steve2381 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 22	I made hinges out of small brass rod, bent into shape and pivoted in brass tube. Tried all sorts of hinges to start. I was hoping to use model aircraft rudder hinges with the pin replaced with brass, but they would not fit in. The doors are held closed by a brass cam system on a central rod. Then, tiny magnets (encased in epoxy) pull the doors open as the cam moves out of the way. They snap open really nicely and the servo will be geared back to slow the opening. The tubes are slightly angled so that a torpedo can get a clean exit.

Nov 10, 2009, 03:05 PM	#29
Steve2381 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 22	What diameter acrylic pipe are people using for the Gato? I cut the top out of the hull and its only 55/60 mm wide (approx). Ok, allowing for the fact that you can bend it open further, that still isn't a very large WTC. I know a few people have cut the hull much further down and put a nearly full width pipe in, but I don't want to hack that part of the hull. Cheers, Steve

Nov 10, 2009, 03:48 PM	#30
HYDROJERRY Its More Fun When Its Wet Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: north carolina Posts: 423	steve2381 was your GATO just a model, im interested in maybe building one how mutch and where did you get the model. seen the 52'' model for 89.00$.