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#61 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 124
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Hi Don and Thanks for the kind words - I am going to make it work by just planking it up the besst I can and not removing much wood at all from the kit set-up. I understand about how you do the skags (skegs - skags - whats the difference - I know what you mean) - Steve -PS - I have 2 of the little brackets (struts) that fit between the hull and the tubes. I just remembered there is 2 in the fittings kit I also got with the kit. I will post a pic.
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#62 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 183
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Hello from don
Ya your right I forgot my self. You may even be able to use them for a pattern. OK glad your undestanding on some of things I am trying to help you with. Sometimes me and spelling dont get along and I try my best to sound out what I am trying to say. YOUR on the right track for sure. Do you know how to read PMs on this board if someone sends one to ya do you know how to open and send by one. I know I sent you one a wile back and you never said a word about it . Just wondering. DON
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#63 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 124
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Hey Don - I did not know about the PM's - I will watch for those now Don - Thanks - Here is a pic of the 2 little struts from the fittings I shall use if the other ones are no good. Steve
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#64 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 183
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Hello from don
ON THE PMs I am still learning to how to use it.
Yup those mounts may work you will have to play with them. I know I have use mind for patterns in the pass. Glad you seen the PM I did a return to ya. Go ahead and use that information that I sent to ya if you want. I may help ya some. DON |
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#65 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 183
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NEW project From DON
OK all here is my new Project I am taking the REVELL 1.350 WW 2 BB 63 kit and turning it into the Montana class. I am having to do some changing. Also setting it up as an RC. NOT use of working in small spaces. I am useing 2 small 6 volt motors along with an older Novak speed controll along with a 6 volt jell cell. Have had to do some cutting in the bottom of the supperstructer but so far it is working out. This a plactic kit that was set up with a gear box system from what i saw when I was in the process of doing the change over. WHEN I have it on display it will show the 4 props but only the 2 center props will be my working props. IT is 31 inches long with a 2 inch beam in the center.
I have also had to scratch build the extra 16 inches. So I will have 4 rafles on her just like the real one would have had. |
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#66 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 124
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Planking all done!
A bit crude but it will be effective. Now I am going to start gentle sanding on hull to pull it all into shape before I begin filling. - Steve
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#67 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 183
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Hello
HEY She is looking good. YOU did a nice job in adding in the wood. The way you did it like you showed us yesterday' that is how I wouild have done it myself just add in the wood whear you can make it fit. It looks clean.
YOUR GOING Be going to sea befor you know it Then you have fine a crew to run her ;-))) MY Self I got the rear rudders set up with a mimi servo set up. I will have all of my radio set up in soon and then off to do some sea testing. in the bath tub;-)) ONE thing nice about doing a small one you can test most of them in a standard bath tub. OK that is if you have one ;-)) Then I have all of that fun stuff to do. BUT At least this time all of it is pre built. Kind of fun to work with something like this small and now room;-)) Keep us up dated Steven |
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#68 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 124
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First Sanding Done (almost)
Great Don - OK - Here's an update - Not much to show for 4 hours of preliminary sanding. I figure it's better to get it as close to shape as possible before filling. The pics don't show it too well but the hull lines are pretty nice and clean and level at the joints. Just a bit more to go before I start filling. The balsa in this kit is soft so I removed the excess wood carefully. Getting my putty knife cleaned up now. - Steve
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#69 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Little Rock Regional, Arkansas, United States
Posts: 2,754
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Looking good Steve. Yep as I remember... lots and lots of sanding !!!!
![]() Stringfly |
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#70 |
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Let er Rip
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 3,065
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missouri
Coming along nicely. A lot of work ehh!!. I worked on this boat for a couple of years on and off adding stuff.
Jim G |
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#71 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 183
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Hey Steven it is nice and clean and YES I remember a lot of sanding even the way I did mind.
YOURE Going to love that stearn block and rudders. ;-)) I did mind compleatly different then what the kit has. I got rid of that stearn block compleatly. that way I can get into my rudders . To do any thing if I had to . I did not like working with that stearn block at all. SO any way lookig good. Keep up the good work for sure. DON |
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#72 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 124
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Thanks for commenting guys - I do enjoy the sanding - It's not like work for me - I am also enjoying posting to this thread almost just as much as building the boat - I never would have even got into RC Boats if it were not for these forums - I really appriciate having you guys there in case I need help - Steve
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#73 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 124
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Started to Fill
Filling going on well and sanding like a dream. Gotta let it dry real good before sanding. Maybe I will start on the Superstructure so I can keep busy during the time the finishing materials take to dry. Then again I would have to get a new work area to do that and with this boat being 5.5 Ft. Long I am cramped for space in my basement area. I hope to just proceed along with the filling and get some ZPoxy on the hull - Man - that Balsa is soft (Makes it tricky to work with ) - One false move and its got a nick in it - so I want to get it covered soon - What's the trick to getting that stuff (ZPoxy) to dry so there are no sort of areas that look like runs? Putting that stuff on will be my moment of truth as far as how the Hull will look. I guess I want to get it nice and smooth then use a sealer on any exposed wood before epoxying - Is that right Guys? - Steve
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#74 |
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Retired for now
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,096
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Whenever your ready put a light coat of gray primer on the whole hull. Then you will see any imperfections that you may not see beforehand.
I would also reinstall the props and shafts and the motors now to make sure you havn't moved the shaft tubes with the planking. It only takes a few minutes to be sure the alignment is still correct and easy to fix at this point. I think your planking looks great. It all came out where it's supposed to and sanding and filling will smooth it all out for you. Fast work too Steve. Please keep the pictures coming. Pete |
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#75 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Posts: 124
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Bow Block
Thanks Pete - You made my day Man with your words of assurance! I will get me some of that primer. I have been checking the tolerences on the deck and where the superstructure will meet it and I think all is OK - You gotta look way ahead with this kit before you start removing a lot (or any) wood at all from the lower deck/bulkheads/shears. Glad I did or I would have been screwed - I almost followed the plans and if I had I would have a lot more work ahead of me - It's as if Sterling wanted it to be more difficult. Maybe so you would break the 1st one over your knee and then go get another.
Anyways - I am proceeding along with shaping the Bow Blocks now - I used a drum sander on a power drill - very carefully - I foolishly followed the plans and may have to use some filler to get the shape better where it meets the deck - no prob. - Steve |
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