Build Log Sterling USS Missouri Build

[Steve Hanson]

Jeeze That's Nice Ed ! - I want to see more too - Steve

As far as my progress goes - I have finished planking the front and am moving on to the rear now - Went down to Canadian Tire and got some Poly Instafil Lightweight spackle in case I need it. Also got the Planetary Drives in the mail - Sweet Parts Gill - Thanks for that advice again bro! They are so compact and good looking!

[Rustbucket]

HELLO Steve H on what your going to the hull ? That is what i would advise. I use to do it all of the time and with smalled ones like that I have never had a problem at all. BUT I do inside and out. This way your will be sure you will not have any leaks and it will be come a little stronger.
So I take it you know how to figure out what is RT and Left sides. Just look for the cutting edge on witch way it is cutting down through your future pond. IT is it looking good . Keep up the good work. DON That Portland Rustbucket

[Steve Hanson]

Thanks Don - I am not sure what you are saying - What do you use to waterproof the inside of your hull? - Steve

[W.L Upshaw]

The Prop on the right side of your ship should be turning Clockwise and the left should be turning counter-clockwise.
Also the Photo-Etch set for these ships would be from Gold Medal Models, Loren made up a set in this scale that includes the catapults, radars, doors, ladders, railings and a bunch of other stuff, it is a full 12" x 24" sheet of parts.

I do not mean to be commercial here but Scale Shipyard makes the rudders for this ship as well as the 16" turrets, 5" gun mounts, directors and the aft tower. The aft stack is comming soon.

[Rustbucket]

I will do the inside with the same reasan that you do the out side with. one day I will the inside then the next the outside. For what I use is finishing reasan . This is what I have allways use in the pass. That is what I use to use on my wood hulls. Others I usely did not worry about it . Like glass hulls and placitic. That is what I am working with right now a 1.350 WW 2 BB 63. converting it into RC. I am only useing a pair of small 6 vote motors but it will show 4 working props when I have it done. I am having to build most of it . NOT loose of working in very small hulls. This one is only 31 inches long with a 2 inch beam. Did one like this many years ago. BUT have done a few blue divels . DON

[Rustbucket]

HEY Lee nice to see ya . Been a wile since I have last seen ya. SO how ya doing . MY self I have for most part retired building any more.
ran out of room but you dont have those problems now do ya ;-))
Right now I am doing a convertion on a 1.350 kit will be doing it as a montana class BB 67 the one they use to replace the nose on the Wisky. Since I have the wisky why not ;-) Keep in touch when you can .
DON YOUR Portland Rustbucket

[Rustbucket]

HEY Steve ok now you have lost me what are you talking about ??
I was talking about the hull and how to seal it . IF there is something I miss please ask and I will try to clear it up for ya .
I use fiberglass finching Reasin I use it inside and out of the hull. One day for the inside the next out side this way you know you wont or should not have any problems or leaks BUT THEN again??;-)) DON

[W.L Upshaw]

Hi Don:

I am still here working away.

BTW, the Wisconsin used part of the bow ( below the second deck ) of the USS Kentucky BB-66, she would have been the 6th of the Iowa class, the Montana's were never started outside of the turret parts being ordered, the ships were cancelled prior to the keel plates being laid down.
The Montana's were more then just enlarged Iowa's, they were more of a cross between an Iowa in profile and a North Carolina BB-55 in cross section, they were to have an external armor belt.

[Rustbucket]

OK I will name it BB 66 . I was thinking they use the bow off of the 67 . I know the wisky got part of her nose taken off from the DD in a fog .
Ya I am useing the moe kit changing some things on it . Doing some scratch building . All ready had to build the extra 16 incher.
This will be the last one I do for sure for I do have a shelf for it .
I have been thinking ya and ever worndered what ever happen to ya.
If your on face book look me up I have some pictures of it. NOT hard to fine me for I have a picture of me and my landing craft in the pond. thank you for the tips. Keep in touch Everthing is the same but I am on Yahoo now . Just use what you all ready have and use @ yahoo.com instead. everthing elest is the same. GEt back in touch when you have the time.
thank you DON your Portland Rustbucket

[Steve Hanson]

Now I understand Don - ZPoxy Finishing Resin inside and out. Thanks Guys - Steve

[Steve Hanson]

I checked Scaleshipyard - nice stuff - Maybe next boat - I am trying to do this one as the kit with the photoetched stuff from GM Models - We will see - Thanks Again - Steve

[Steve Hanson]

It's going on pretty good - The easy stuff is done now - The kit calls for a sort of block in the center where the rudder and prop were supposed to go but I will plank mine smoothly all around I believe - I have 2 of the little struts coming in the mail in case I need to support the tubes further on the exterior of the hull ( I guess since I bought 'em, I will install 'em). And the rudders are coming in 2 separate envelopes as I decided to upgrade to 2 rudders after placing the order for 1 - No biggy as I needed a couple of other little items like a 5mm insert for one coupler as the planetary drives I got are a bit different one is 4mm output shaft and one is 5mm output shaft (identical other than that and they were the last 2 available at $22.) - I see no problem at all with that.

Anyways I shall proceed knowing I can use my Milliput Epoxy Filler to help join up the tubes with the hull. Any advice? - I see you other more experienced modelers build a sort of skeg down to the props. How do I do that ?? - Thanks - Steve

[Rustbucket]

HEY Steve it is looking good. Make sure you will props will clear the bottom of the hull. so if they move a little you will have the clearence. I have bent props and was glad that I had the clearenes just something to think about ?

Ok on what your asking I will try to tell ya how I do it. first off there is brakets you can get but you will have to look for them.
what I do I will take some wood that is the same as the stuffing box tube. THEN I put the wood next to shaft. Draw a line whear it would go under after you cut it. THEN on top take another piece of wood same thicknes. THEN grove the piece so when you glue it on to the stuffing box tube it will will just drop right on top and onto your lower mount. I hope you can understand on what i am saying. It is not as hard as it sounds. It like puting a jack stand under something to hold it up. . If It dose make sence let me know and I will try it another way.
When you cut your lower piece just slide it under the tube so you can glue it top and bottom of the stuffing box and on to the hull. Then when your done just resan it all together. There other ways but this is how I do it .
DON

[Steve Hanson]

Thanks Don - I am looking at it now - Here is the progress today - 22 planks on the stern. I am about to epoxy the tubes in place as I think they will be fine - Just a nice 1/4 inch clearance now between the planks and props now. I am not going any closer. When I planked I tried to "fare" them in and it worked pretty good. I also used a pipette to spread the medium CA glue. Now I am considering how I will plank in the rest of the stern - I think I will just try to get it smooth and I can always sand some of the balsa blocks that make up the sort of keel at the stern - Any advice guys? - Thanks - Steve

[Rustbucket]

HEY Steve YUP LOOKING Better all of the time. OK now you may have to shorten some of your planks then go from there. OR cut some of them to go in place. When you get this far something may have to change. Myself I usely wait intill I get it plank befor I start adding in the prop shafts. For me it is a little easer. What I did with mind I cut off my stearn compleatly by about six inches then added in my props and rudders. FOR ME It all work out and I can get into any of it at any time. I am talking about my big BB like what your working on. NOW like I said you may have to do some custom work . BUT then again mind is compleatly different in the stearn then what your doing. I am sure you will be able to get it all to go in place. Like you say you can sand and add fillers . I know I had to add some to mind to get it to work the way I wanted it to .
BY the way did you understand on what I was trying to tell you on how to do the skags you were asking about. If not I will have to do one then show step by step. That is the only way I know of to show ya.
OK get back to me on all of this. YES your wellcome Glad I can help DON