Sterling USS Missouri Build - Page 3

GILL RC · Nov 05, 2009, 08:50 AM

As promised rudder linkages. I have used a number of methods over the years. The easiest is with collets or the adjustable servo mount. The great thing about the collets is you don't have to worry about the length +/- an inch or 2 is OK.
All ways keep the linkages as short as possible. The longer they are the more chance of problems
I would suggest that you make the rear part of the deck removable or a hatch to service the rudders.

Steve Hanson · Nov 05, 2009, 08:56 AM

Great Help Gill - Thanks

IvanYuen · Nov 05, 2009, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve Hanson

That is some nice stuff Ivan - Thanks - I like the price too- Anyone else familiar with this site's quality and fit? - Thanks - Steve

Hello Steve,

Since I don't have the PE set of the mighty Mo I can't comment on that PE set.

But I got another PE set from GPM for their 1:200 IJN Shikishima
that you may refer to. Their PE are easy to use in my view, but you may
need some modification since it is designed for their paper model.

Ivan

Steve Hanson · Nov 05, 2009, 10:25 AM

Amazing Ivan - Thank-You - Steve

Steve Hanson · Nov 05, 2009, 03:16 PM

I got the 4 side pieces on and will commence planking - Bit rough - as I am no carpenter and a bit impatient to say the least - But I figure it's nothing a little filler can't cure and a few coats of Finishing ZPoxy well sanded. (or whatever else you guys suggest) - Steve

woodybob · Nov 05, 2009, 03:40 PM

Lookin' good. Here's a couple of shots of a dual rudder set up I did. Worked out well. Dumas tiller arms.

Steve Hanson · Nov 05, 2009, 04:23 PM

Thanks Bob - That grey stuff has got to be a waterproofer or like that eh? (Canadian) - Steve

woodybob · Nov 05, 2009, 04:53 PM

It's a fiberglass hull, just gray primer.

GILL RC · Nov 05, 2009, 05:04 PM

Thats a nice tiller set up, very short links, no slop. Rudder posts are well braced and no metal to metal contact. You can check the airplane control horns, thier used for ailerons and nose wheels. Look for ones with set screws. I have had the double nut sandwich come loose.
You can also see why I suggest that the rear deck be removable.

Rustbucket · Nov 06, 2009, 03:06 AM

Hello Steve. GOOD Job !!!!!!!! I just back to the boards. Been busy and have not had the time to get back to this one.
YOU Hit it lucky on those small parts I was hoping you would get them with that one when you were talking about it.
Looks like it did not take you all that long to build it.
I was looking at the props and I know you had it up side down but from what I can tell and i will amit I could wrong. Looks like you have the props on the wrong side. I was looking at cutting edge of them. Like I say it just be upside down . ONE way you can tell if you are right . When you pull on the radio and it is going forward out on the work bench see if the props are pushing air when you pull on your radio .
I am sure you know about that but I thought I would just throw it at you.
Well I am building an 1.350 kit a world war 2 revell kit. About 31 inche long and bout 2 inche wide. I am converting it to the montana class.
But I like the work you did on yours. So when you get it in your pond you will have to show us . By the way did you glass the hull or resaon it . KEEP Up the good work.
So do you have plans of it doing any of the tricks with it that we all talk about a wile back? DON YOUR Portland Rustbucket .

Steve Hanson · Nov 06, 2009, 05:12 AM

Hi Don - Thanks for the kind words - I will make sure the props are correct - I am going to coat the hull with ZPoxy Finishing Resin only - I think a few coats should make it strong enough for my purposes - I don't plan on anything fancy - If I can just get it reasonably finished and running on the water I will be delighted - Steve

edmigley51146 · Nov 06, 2009, 01:25 PM

Hi Steve, Take your time with the placement of the shafts/struts/props. Remember our models spend more time on the shelf than in the water. I used 1/8 diameter shafts and I kept the stuffing boxes (tubes) inside the hull and made my own rudders. Best of fun building the MO. Ed

Pilot44 · Nov 06, 2009, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edmigley51146

Hi Steve, Take your time with the placement of the shafts/struts/props. Remember our models spend more time on the shelf than in the water. I used 1/8 diameter shafts and I kept the stuffing boxes (tubes) inside the hull and made my own rudders. Best of fun building the MO. Ed

Great job there mate. Awesome detail.. How about shooting some more pictures of the Battleship. Like to see what ya did with this great kit.

Regards,

Jim G

edmigley51146 · Nov 06, 2009, 03:21 PM

Jim: Send me a PM with your email address and I'll send them to you. I don't want to snipe someone's build log with my pictures. Thanks, Ed

GILL RC · Nov 06, 2009, 03:26 PM

Ed I don't think that it would be a snipe. Our builder here and I'm sure others would love to see your work. I have in person and it is exceptional. It would give him look and possibly ideas on the detail.

Nov 05, 2009, 08:50 AM	#31
GILL RC GILL Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: NEW JERSEY Posts: 242	As promised rudder linkages. I have used a number of methods over the years. The easiest is with collets or the adjustable servo mount. The great thing about the collets is you don't have to worry about the length +/- an inch or 2 is OK. All ways keep the linkages as short as possible. The longer they are the more chance of problems I would suggest that you make the rear part of the deck removable or a hatch to service the rudders. Attached Thumbnails You can use a "Z" bend or a "Kwik-link" on the rod ends. 40.9 KB · Views: 81 Steering servo mounting place 58.2 KB · Views: 60 Last edited by GILL RC; Nov 05, 2009 at 09:04 AM.

Nov 05, 2009, 03:16 PM	#35
Steve Hanson Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Ottawa, Canada Posts: 124	Sides On I got the 4 side pieces on and will commence planking - Bit rough - as I am no carpenter and a bit impatient to say the least - But I figure it's nothing a little filler can't cure and a few coats of Finishing ZPoxy well sanded. (or whatever else you guys suggest) - Steve Attached Thumbnails They took the shape at the bow pretty well where it indents at the V. 36.6 KB · Views: 79

Nov 05, 2009, 03:40 PM	#36
woodybob WooHoo! Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Lake Balboa, California Posts: 2,598	Lookin' good. Here's a couple of shots of a dual rudder set up I did. Worked out well. Dumas tiller arms. Attached Thumbnails 51.2 KB · Views: 62 87.6 KB · Views: 55

Nov 06, 2009, 03:06 AM	#40
Rustbucket Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 183	Hello Hello Steve. GOOD Job !!!!!!!! I just back to the boards. Been busy and have not had the time to get back to this one. YOU Hit it lucky on those small parts I was hoping you would get them with that one when you were talking about it. Looks like it did not take you all that long to build it. I was looking at the props and I know you had it up side down but from what I can tell and i will amit I could wrong. Looks like you have the props on the wrong side. I was looking at cutting edge of them. Like I say it just be upside down . ONE way you can tell if you are right . When you pull on the radio and it is going forward out on the work bench see if the props are pushing air when you pull on your radio . I am sure you know about that but I thought I would just throw it at you. Well I am building an 1.350 kit a world war 2 revell kit. About 31 inche long and bout 2 inche wide. I am converting it to the montana class. But I like the work you did on yours. So when you get it in your pond you will have to show us . By the way did you glass the hull or resaon it . KEEP Up the good work. So do you have plans of it doing any of the tricks with it that we all talk about a wile back? DON YOUR Portland Rustbucket .

Nov 06, 2009, 01:25 PM	#42
edmigley51146 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 138	Hi Steve, Take your time with the placement of the shafts/struts/props. Remember our models spend more time on the shelf than in the water. I used 1/8 diameter shafts and I kept the stuffing boxes (tubes) inside the hull and made my own rudders. Best of fun building the MO. Ed Attached Thumbnails Correct placement for props and rudders 72.4 KB · Views: 64 Build your own struts 68.2 KB · Views: 48

Nov 05, 2009, 08:56 AM	#32
Steve Hanson Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Ottawa, Canada Posts: 124	Great Help Gill - Thanks

Nov 05, 2009, 10:25 AM	#34
Steve Hanson Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Ottawa, Canada Posts: 124	Amazing Ivan - Thank-You - Steve

Nov 05, 2009, 04:23 PM	#37
Steve Hanson Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Ottawa, Canada Posts: 124	Thanks Bob - That grey stuff has got to be a waterproofer or like that eh? (Canadian) - Steve

Nov 05, 2009, 04:53 PM	#38
woodybob WooHoo! Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Lake Balboa, California Posts: 2,598	It's a fiberglass hull, just gray primer.

Nov 05, 2009, 05:04 PM	#39
GILL RC GILL Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: NEW JERSEY Posts: 242	Thats a nice tiller set up, very short links, no slop. Rudder posts are well braced and no metal to metal contact. You can check the airplane control horns, thier used for ailerons and nose wheels. Look for ones with set screws. I have had the double nut sandwich come loose. You can also see why I suggest that the rear deck be removable.

Nov 06, 2009, 05:12 AM	#41
Steve Hanson Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Ottawa, Canada Posts: 124	Hi Don - Thanks for the kind words - I will make sure the props are correct - I am going to coat the hull with ZPoxy Finishing Resin only - I think a few coats should make it strong enough for my purposes - I don't plan on anything fancy - If I can just get it reasonably finished and running on the water I will be delighted - Steve

Nov 06, 2009, 03:21 PM	#44
edmigley51146 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 138	Jim: Send me a PM with your email address and I'll send them to you. I don't want to snipe someone's build log with my pictures. Thanks, Ed

Nov 06, 2009, 03:26 PM	#45
GILL RC GILL Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: NEW JERSEY Posts: 242	Ed I don't think that it would be a snipe. Our builder here and I'm sure others would love to see your work. I have in person and it is exceptional. It would give him look and possibly ideas on the detail.

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