Sterling USS Missouri Build

Steve Hanson · Oct 30, 2009, 03:29 PM

I got it today - Hammer price $103. and shipped for total $128. US$ on EBay - When I was bidding I noticed the little box of fittings - Now I see they are indeed labeled Set B 17F for USS Missouri and priced at $14.95. - Yee Haa - Good Old EBay - I was waiting for a deal like this.

Here is the link for the discussion I have had while waiting for delivery.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1129670

I have all the running gear parts mentioned in that thread on order now as I am so delighted to have gotten the bonus fittings.

GILL RC · Oct 30, 2009, 03:51 PM

CONGRATS!! You didn't buy it you stole it. I still have one factory sealed. If I were you I would duplicate all the parts and some I would replace with styrene plastic. Take your time and enjoy your build, we’re all here to help good or bad.

STRINGFLY · Oct 30, 2009, 04:44 PM

Yea... great deal.
I built one years ago in the early 70's. Could not afford any rc back then. Just had it running in big circles in the lake. Had a great summer sanding and fileing and sanding all the balsa on it. Lots of gray spray paint primer too. But a fun summer project. Ended up at a local hobby shop for years then got burned up in the shop fire.

Stringfly <>+++++

Steve Hanson · Oct 30, 2009, 05:46 PM

Thanks for the kind words guys - I am not sure about duplicating the parts Gill - A resin casting kit no doubt - I shall look into that. - Getting started now - All correct contents are there - decals and flags, nicely carved gun barrels, all fittings, Tons of wood and little and big blocks of balsa - all top shape. - Steve

Steve Hanson · Nov 01, 2009, 04:55 AM

It's the morning of Day 2 of the build - Hull seems nice and true up to this point - Hope my prop shafts etc get here tomorrow (Monday) so I can start to fit them before I get too far along with the Hull.

norgale · Nov 01, 2009, 01:48 PM

Looks like your off to a great start Steve. Don't get antsy and try to rush it as this is a complicated model and one you really need to take your time with. By all means wait to get the shafts and props so you can mount everything including the motors so they all line up correctly. Then you can remove the motors ect. and go on with the build. This should be very interesting and don't forget to take lots of pictures. Pete

GILL RC · Nov 02, 2009, 12:45 PM

I thought it would be a good idea to copy the formers and such. Looks good so far. I agree with Norgale take your time and look ahead some things can be changed to make building and servicing it easier.
Waiting for the shafts is a very good idea, it is easy too line up shafts when you can see through the hull, just rmember to leave clearance for the hull planking at the props.

Steve Hanson · Nov 02, 2009, 04:13 PM

Thanks Guys - I am looking ahead and mocking things up to try to ensure good fits (for planking and deck, etc.) - I am not going to encase the sides of the hull until I get things positioned. Picture soon - Steve

Steve Hanson · Nov 03, 2009, 05:55 PM

Getting the bottom on now - I have a pretty good idea of where the tubes will fit - They arrived today with the 30 MM 4 Blade props, motors and couplers. They are Graupner and are going to work. Got the last 2 planetary drives (as in the Discussion thread of this build) available at a great price and I hope they arrive shortly. Meanwhile I shall check the position for the tubes. There is lots of room for the motors to mount on a plywood board which I shall glue in place when tubes are positioned - I am just wondering if I should just put the tubes roughly in place (Drill a couple of bulkheads as I figure the tubes will come out of the hull just above the solid shaped balsa pieces used on the bottom) and proceed with the sides and some planking and then epoxy them in ?? or just epoxy them in now and then plank it up around the tubes. What is the best goo to use as filler if I want to build up some areas (to protect the props from weeds etc. - We only have the odd one (weed) at the lake) Thanks Guys

norgale · Nov 04, 2009, 08:46 AM

Looks like your moving right along with this build Steve. I think I would go ahead and finish the bottom all the way and then do your motor mounts with the motors and temporarily install them in the hull.
Then line up your shafts making sure the props will be positioned right to clear the hull and the rudders. This way you can move the motors and the mounts around to get them as perfectly lined up with the shafts as possible. I know you have flexible couplers for the connection of the motors to the shafts and they are there to allow for any slight misalignment. However the straighter the alignment the better and quieter the machinery will run. Don't hesitate to lay a straight edge along the shaft and the motor shaft to get this alignment as straight as possible. Use the couplers too when you have everything in place. Leave it all together and then epoxy the shaft tubes in place and let them dry and cure for at least 24 hours. Once the tubes are securly in place you can remove the shafts and the motors and mounts to proceed with finishing the hull. Don't forget to seal all the wood inside the hull so it can't get wet and swell up and cause cracks down the road. Pete

Steve Hanson · Nov 04, 2009, 10:04 AM

That's the way I am going to proceed Pete - I have the bottom all done now and will use the part shown to help align and hold the shafts in place.

Steve Hanson · Nov 04, 2009, 10:19 AM

Hey Pete sorry I didn't say Thanks for the great reply - I wanted to post a picture too and forgot (to Thank-You) - You are so correct about the alignment - I want both Props to run smoothly at the same RPM and a faulty alignment or overworked Coupler would cause proplems. I was on to that but as I said "Great Reply" - What about the filler? Polifil Insta Stripple OK ? It's gotta be super sandable on this soft balsa - Thanks - Steve

Steve Hanson · Nov 04, 2009, 10:23 AM

Rudders - I was just going to use 1 - I have it coming in the mail -

Rudder Set 45mm Blade -

http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/...t_rudders.html

GILL RC · Nov 04, 2009, 10:29 AM

Looking real good. A little trick I use too make it easy to line up a shaft.
Drill/ cut over size holes in the bulkheads, use a piece of scrap balsa or ply about 1" square with a hole that fits the stern tube, for each bulk head.
slide the stern tube through the bulk heads and aline. glue the 1" piece to the bulkhead and the stern tube to the piece.
I would also suggest 2 rudders. Full size had 2 and with 2 you have them behide the props,much better for manuvers.

norgale · Nov 04, 2009, 11:02 AM

I forgot about the filler. I have used wall spakeling on several models and it's ok. However I think over all something like Bondo or some kind of body putty is the best. You can apply it with any straight edged tool or maybe an old credit card and it will go on as thin as you like and is easily sanded. It doesn't take stain well but you can paint over it with no problem. You can use it in place of epoxy too but it's not as strong. Hope this helps. Pete

Oct 30, 2009, 03:29 PM	#1
Steve Hanson Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Ottawa, Canada Posts: 123	Sterling USS Missouri Build I got it today - Hammer price $103. and shipped for total $128. US$ on EBay - When I was bidding I noticed the little box of fittings - Now I see they are indeed labeled Set B 17F for USS Missouri and priced at $14.95. - Yee Haa - Good Old EBay - I was waiting for a deal like this. Here is the link for the discussion I have had while waiting for delivery. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1129670 I have all the running gear parts mentioned in that thread on order now as I am so delighted to have gotten the bonus fittings. Attached Thumbnails The Wood and Smells Great 111.1 KB · Views: 138 The Correct Sterling Fittings! 118.2 KB · Views: 118

Oct 30, 2009, 04:44 PM	#3
STRINGFLY Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Little Rock Regional, Arkansas, United States Posts: 2,754	nice deal Yea... great deal. I built one years ago in the early 70's. Could not afford any rc back then. Just had it running in big circles in the lake. Had a great summer sanding and fileing and sanding all the balsa on it. Lots of gray spray paint primer too. But a fun summer project. Ended up at a local hobby shop for years then got burned up in the shop fire. Stringfly <>+++++

Nov 01, 2009, 04:55 AM	#5
Steve Hanson Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Ottawa, Canada Posts: 123	Day 1 Pic It's the morning of Day 2 of the build - Hull seems nice and true up to this point - Hope my prop shafts etc get here tomorrow (Monday) so I can start to fit them before I get too far along with the Hull. Attached Thumbnails 24 hours in to build 19.6 KB · Views: 132

Nov 03, 2009, 05:55 PM	#9
Steve Hanson Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Ottawa, Canada Posts: 123	Getting the bottom on now - I have a pretty good idea of where the tubes will fit - They arrived today with the 30 MM 4 Blade props, motors and couplers. They are Graupner and are going to work. Got the last 2 planetary drives (as in the Discussion thread of this build) available at a great price and I hope they arrive shortly. Meanwhile I shall check the position for the tubes. There is lots of room for the motors to mount on a plywood board which I shall glue in place when tubes are positioned - I am just wondering if I should just put the tubes roughly in place (Drill a couple of bulkheads as I figure the tubes will come out of the hull just above the solid shaped balsa pieces used on the bottom) and proceed with the sides and some planking and then epoxy them in ?? or just epoxy them in now and then plank it up around the tubes. What is the best goo to use as filler if I want to build up some areas (to protect the props from weeds etc. - We only have the odd one (weed) at the lake) Thanks Guys Attached Thumbnails Shafts are 13" and have a 3mm stepdown at the motor end - I got the correct inserts for the couplers. 79.8 KB · Views: 40 4 Pre-shaped balsa blocks go on the bottom of the hull 105.8 KB · Views: 57 Figuring out where to install tubes. More to come on this critical step. 107.5 KB · Views: 52 Gentle clamping so as not to distort balsa. 99.8 KB · Views: 53 Last edited by Steve Hanson; Nov 03, 2009 at 06:17 PM. Reason: Missed the captions

Nov 04, 2009, 10:04 AM	#11
Steve Hanson Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Ottawa, Canada Posts: 123	That's the way I am going to proceed Pete - I have the bottom all done now and will use the part shown to help align and hold the shafts in place. Attached Thumbnails I have the motors mounted temporarily at 2" on center of shafts apart which may well work. 108.6 KB · Views: 67

Oct 30, 2009, 03:51 PM	#2
GILL RC GILL Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: NEW JERSEY Posts: 242	CONGRATS!! You didn't buy it you stole it. I still have one factory sealed. If I were you I would duplicate all the parts and some I would replace with styrene plastic. Take your time and enjoy your build, we’re all here to help good or bad.

Oct 30, 2009, 05:46 PM	#4
Steve Hanson Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Ottawa, Canada Posts: 123	Thanks for the kind words guys - I am not sure about duplicating the parts Gill - A resin casting kit no doubt - I shall look into that. - Getting started now - All correct contents are there - decals and flags, nicely carved gun barrels, all fittings, Tons of wood and little and big blocks of balsa - all top shape. - Steve

Nov 01, 2009, 01:48 PM	#6
norgale Retired for now Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 4,093	Looks like your off to a great start Steve. Don't get antsy and try to rush it as this is a complicated model and one you really need to take your time with. By all means wait to get the shafts and props so you can mount everything including the motors so they all line up correctly. Then you can remove the motors ect. and go on with the build. This should be very interesting and don't forget to take lots of pictures. Pete

Nov 02, 2009, 12:45 PM	#7
GILL RC GILL Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: NEW JERSEY Posts: 242	I thought it would be a good idea to copy the formers and such. Looks good so far. I agree with Norgale take your time and look ahead some things can be changed to make building and servicing it easier. Waiting for the shafts is a very good idea, it is easy too line up shafts when you can see through the hull, just rmember to leave clearance for the hull planking at the props.

Nov 02, 2009, 04:13 PM	#8
Steve Hanson Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Ottawa, Canada Posts: 123	Thanks Guys - I am looking ahead and mocking things up to try to ensure good fits (for planking and deck, etc.) - I am not going to encase the sides of the hull until I get things positioned. Picture soon - Steve

Nov 04, 2009, 08:46 AM	#10
norgale Retired for now Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 4,093	Looks like your moving right along with this build Steve. I think I would go ahead and finish the bottom all the way and then do your motor mounts with the motors and temporarily install them in the hull. Then line up your shafts making sure the props will be positioned right to clear the hull and the rudders. This way you can move the motors and the mounts around to get them as perfectly lined up with the shafts as possible. I know you have flexible couplers for the connection of the motors to the shafts and they are there to allow for any slight misalignment. However the straighter the alignment the better and quieter the machinery will run. Don't hesitate to lay a straight edge along the shaft and the motor shaft to get this alignment as straight as possible. Use the couplers too when you have everything in place. Leave it all together and then epoxy the shaft tubes in place and let them dry and cure for at least 24 hours. Once the tubes are securly in place you can remove the shafts and the motors and mounts to proceed with finishing the hull. Don't forget to seal all the wood inside the hull so it can't get wet and swell up and cause cracks down the road. Pete

Nov 04, 2009, 10:19 AM	#12
Steve Hanson Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Ottawa, Canada Posts: 123	Hey Pete sorry I didn't say Thanks for the great reply - I wanted to post a picture too and forgot (to Thank-You) - You are so correct about the alignment - I want both Props to run smoothly at the same RPM and a faulty alignment or overworked Coupler would cause proplems. I was on to that but as I said "Great Reply" - What about the filler? Polifil Insta Stripple OK ? It's gotta be super sandable on this soft balsa - Thanks - Steve

Nov 04, 2009, 10:23 AM	#13
Steve Hanson Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: Ottawa, Canada Posts: 123	Rudders - I was just going to use 1 - I have it coming in the mail - Rudder Set 45mm Blade - http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/...t_rudders.html Attached Images

Nov 04, 2009, 10:29 AM	#14
GILL RC GILL Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: NEW JERSEY Posts: 242	Looking real good. A little trick I use too make it easy to line up a shaft. Drill/ cut over size holes in the bulkheads, use a piece of scrap balsa or ply about 1" square with a hole that fits the stern tube, for each bulk head. slide the stern tube through the bulk heads and aline. glue the 1" piece to the bulkhead and the stern tube to the piece. I would also suggest 2 rudders. Full size had 2 and with 2 you have them behide the props,much better for manuvers. Last edited by GILL RC; Nov 04, 2009 at 10:53 AM.

Nov 04, 2009, 11:02 AM	#15
norgale Retired for now Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 4,093	I forgot about the filler. I have used wall spakeling on several models and it's ok. However I think over all something like Bondo or some kind of body putty is the best. You can apply it with any straight edged tool or maybe an old credit card and it will go on as thin as you like and is easily sanded. It doesn't take stain well but you can paint over it with no problem. You can use it in place of epoxy too but it's not as strong. Hope this helps. Pete

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