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Old Oct 28, 2012, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Barry2020 View Post
Nice find. The wire leads look too short. They need to reach at least 4" (10cm) so they can be connected inside the battery bay. Did you lengthen the leads with motor extensions or solder on longer leads?

The motor leads are a little shorter, but they still reached, my ESC is hook&looped so even another few centimetres wouldn't have been an issue, however actually reaching the connectors is a bit of a pain since they are just inside the tube between the cockpit and the motor cowling. Useing small finger to hold the motor plug against the tube, while other hand attaches the ESC socket worked, then repeat for other 2 connections .. not something to do each flight, but OK for occasional maintenance.
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Last edited by mitchellj; Oct 28, 2012 at 12:46 PM. Reason: Forgot to quote the point I was replying to
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 12:48 PM
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Weather rather bad in somerset, no-one flying at out field, so I still don't actually know for sure if the new HK motor works OK.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by mitchellj View Post
The motor leads are a little shorter, but they still reached, my ESC is hook&looped so even another few centimetres wouldn't have been an issue, however actually reaching the connectors is a bit of a pain since they are just inside the tube between the cockpit and the motor cowling. Useing small finger to hold the motor plug against the tube, while other hand attaches the ESC socket worked, then repeat for other 2 connections .. not something to do each flight, but OK for occasional maintenance.
Good to hear. You shouldn't need to change ESC's or the motor very often.

The Art-Tech motor leads look to be a bundle of motor windings that extend all the way out to the bullet connectors, covered in shrink wrap.

So, with the Turnigy motor, you could lengthen the leads to the Art-Tech motor length, using a 4mm bullet x 150mm long motor extension lead set (HobbyKing.com, $2.50USD plus shipping), cutting off one end and then splicing them with solder to the Turnigy motor leads with a coupling (shortened 4mm female bullet connector). That should work.

Barry
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 10:49 AM
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Hey all!
Can anyone help me to identify the servos in the Nitroplanes Dia. 2500?
Sent them a note and have not heard back need some replacement gears
Thanks Randy
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 02:00 PM
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Randy,

Welcome!

You won't find replacement gear sets for the stock servos, so you'll need to buy a complete replacement servo. The D2500 comes stock with Art-Tech AS-100 servos. They are 9g micro analog servos with nylon gears. The AS-100 is made by a manufacturer in China and sold under different brand names. HobbyKing.com sells them under the HobbyKing brand.

I've posted some detailed servo information in post #966 on page 65 of this thread. Also, post #958 on page 64, and post #1057 on page 71.

Hope that helps,

Barry
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 02:08 PM
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Thanks Barry for the info !
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Old Nov 02, 2012, 10:40 AM
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Hi all.

Repairs completed and setting up surfaces to fly. See post #1033. Have replaced all foam hinges with Dubro pin hinges. Used Foam-Tac glue which worked pretty well.

Alignment of the T-tail may not be right. Can anyone tell me what the "angle of incidence"(?) is between the horizontal stablizer and the wing? The crash crushed the broken tail piece and I had difficulty restoring it to its original shape in spite of repeated attemps with hot or boiling water. There is now some negative alignment (stabilizer leading edge lower than trailing edge). Should it be neutral or positive or negative? I can easily shim the leading edge if necessary to raise it.

Appreciate the help.

Jack McC
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Old Nov 02, 2012, 03:08 PM
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Jack,

Sounds good. I haven't measured it directly, but the horizontal stabilizer on my D2500 looks to be neutral with respect to the main wing.

The ideal angle depends on the weight of model and location of the center of gravity. Both of which determine the glide path. If I was you, I'd place a temporary shim to neutralize it, then do some flight testing.

See how much elevator trim is needed to give it level glide path with neutral stick position; then adjust the shim accordingly. That should be good fun.

Barry
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Old Nov 02, 2012, 06:59 PM
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well i just got mine in the mail today... Looks very good. Packaged well and it took me 30 Minutes to fully put together.
I am going to use my DX7 and my AR500 instead of the stock Tx & Rx..
Also going to stick to the 3s setup. i have a 3s 2650mah 30c Lipo i will use.
Everything seems to work great and i will Maiden probably in a day or 2. Any suggestions before i do? With the Stock setup on 3s, will this require a heavy tug Launch or can i just lightly throw it and how is the climbing power on a 3s....I imagine the CG is fine since i am using stock setup, so i have to imagine that when i launch i'm not going to get any unexpected surprised like tail heavy or nose heavy...at least i hope not.....
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Old Nov 02, 2012, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack McC View Post
Hi all.

Repairs completed and setting up surfaces to fly. See post #1033. Have replaced all foam hinges with Dubro pin hinges. Used Foam-Tac glue which worked pretty well.

Alignment of the T-tail may not be right. Can anyone tell me what the "angle of incidence"(?) is between the horizontal stablizer and the wing? The crash crushed the broken tail piece and I had difficulty restoring it to its original shape in spite of repeated attemps with hot or boiling water. There is now some negative alignment (stabilizer leading edge lower than trailing edge). Should it be neutral or positive or negative? I can easily shim the leading edge if necessary to raise it.

Appreciate the help.

Jack McC
After my repairs, I had the same issue. I compensated by trimming the elevator down. Didn't think to shim it. It's working fine now, so I don't want to mess with it, but if I crash again, I'll shim it straight.
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Old Nov 02, 2012, 08:03 PM
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Old Nov 03, 2012, 06:09 PM
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well i flew my Diamond 2500 for the 1st time today. It was AWESOME!!!!..i absolutely loved it. i had a couple of extra 3s lipos ranging from 2200mah to 2650 and i literally flew this Glider about 10 times today driving to different locations...... The only Modifications i did to this Glider was changed out the Tx & Rx and put my AR500 and DX7.....CG was on the Money...No bad habbit,,,Nothing i need to change out...Had ample power on 3s. I'm sure i would like it better on 4s but for now the 3s Lipos will suffice....
here's a few videos.
1st is from my Cell Phone. quick Video
2nd is my Key Chain Camera. Sorry, no HD..it's a old Key Chain Camera i got off of Ebay...lol.
and 3rd is just a basic Walkthrough at the end of day after i Flew...

ArtTech Diamond 2500 Glider (2 min 31 sec)


ArtTech diamond 2500 glider- key chain camera (4 min 11 sec)


ArtTech Diamond 2500 glider Walkthrough (1 min 29 sec)
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Old Nov 03, 2012, 08:15 PM
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Hi Barry & Jeff,

Used a magetic protrator to determine incidence between the wing and horizontal stabilizer.. Found the stab needed about 1/4:" up or positive alignment. Plane now looks right to me. Made a shim but, needs to be made again to conform to the leading edge of the Stab Need to start out with a balsa picece 3/8"or more to acommpdate the leadimg edge of the stab

Thanks for the help,

Jack mcC
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Old Nov 04, 2012, 12:18 AM
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rhampton,

Thanks for sharing.

Jeff, Jack

After you find the trim compensation to obtain level flight, you could adjust the shim to achieve level flight without any trim. Without any changes to your CG or model weight, that would be the optimum position of the horizontal stabilizer for the most efficient flight (highest lift to drag ratio).

Barry
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Old Nov 04, 2012, 08:47 PM
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Barry,

That's the goal. Thanks,

Jack
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