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Old Oct 10, 2012, 08:52 PM
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United States, CA, Camarillo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chill will View Post
Hey guys, I've put this glider together this week. Did a lot of the modes suggested in this thread, but I can't find the measurements for the control throws anywhere.
not in the manual or in this thread.
Could someone be kind enough to post the measurements that they used for the ail., rud., and elevator. Your help would be greatly appreciated
CW,

Good to hear.

I'm still doing mods to make mine air worthy; plus I need to purchase a Tx/Rx, so someone else might have better guides with the throws.

Here's what I have with my D2500 on RF6 simulator, but they should also work with your D2500 and Tx.

Ailerons: +70% to -70%
Elevator: +50% to -50%
Rudder: +60% to -60%
Flaps: -100% to +100%

First you need to center all your servos at their neutral positon. Then adjust the clevis on the pushrods to position control surfaces on the Ailerons, Elevator, and Rudder to the neutral positions.

For the Flaps, you want the servo arms to have mehanical advantage while the Flaps are in the Up position. That will reduce the Flap servo current draw during normal flight. The servo arm will have mechanical advantage when pointing toward the flap control surfaces. So the adjustment of the clevis for the Flaps should be set so the Flaps are partially down when the Flap servos are in the neutral position.

Barry
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 09:06 PM
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United States, CA, Camarillo
Joined Jul 2012
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Removing Foam Motor Cover and Plywood Firewall

I removed the foam motor cover using a safety razor blade, cutting through the glue at the lines where the pieces meet while being careful not to cut too deep. The cutting depth between the fuselage and the cover needs to be limited to 9mm all the way around.



The factory only applied glue to the vertical surfaces. Unfortunately for me, excessive glue ran down inside the cover, gluing the cover to the top portion of the fuselage extension where it mates. That made removing the cover more difficult, so I had to insert a pick to free adhesive in that area.

I also removed the plywood motor mount/firewall. From a piece of thin sheet aluminum, I made an Exacto knife shaped blade tool with a right angle (the Exacto knife blades are too brittle to bend). With this tool inserted into the knife handle, I was able to reach into the plywood opening and break the adhesive between the foam and the plywood. This blade was dull, so it was more of an adhesive piercing tool than a cutting tool. You might be able to see by the photo below, there wasn’t much glue applied there by the factory.



I plan to modify the motor mounting and firewall in a couple of ways.

- The motor is mounted to the plywood with wood/sheet metal screws. I’ve ordered parts to replace these with M3 blind nuts (T-Nut) and M3x8mm cap screws.

- As for the two drywall screws that hold the plywood to the plastic reinforcement insert….. I’m thinking about reinforcing the foam with a carbon frame inserted in the square recess. Also considering M2.2 threaded rods to replace the two drywall screws, but extending to the rear of the plastic cylinder insert with a small carbon backing plate and nylon lock nuts.

More on this mod at a later date, waiting for parts now.

Barry
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Old Oct 13, 2012, 01:09 PM
I'm a Registered User
Evansville, WI
Joined Dec 2006
3,690 Posts
Here's my latest mod, if you can all it that. I've noticed that when it's overcast, even my blaze orange plane turns into just a black shadow making orientation difficult to track. What I did was get a pair of THESE flashing dog collar pendants. They've got two blinking red LEDs in them, and are complete self contained units. Just switch them on and they start flashing. I took them out of their cases and hot glued them both on the left wing, right next to the servo horn bumps. Hopefully now I'll be able to tell left from right in the air to help keep orientation when it's not sunny out. If it doesn't work, I'm only out $4.30
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Old Oct 13, 2012, 08:29 PM
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United States, CA, Camarillo
Joined Jul 2012
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Spare Parts; Pushrods, Clevis, Horns

Nice Jeff...I'd like to try those if they are bright enough in daylight.

I was looking for some spare parts, specifically, pushrods, nylon clevis, and control horns. I couldn’t find identical replacements, but I did find some parts that could work.

The D2500 pushrods are 1.2mm in diameter, threaded one end, z-bend on other. The servo arms are drilled by Art-Tech to fit 1.4mm pushrods, while the horns are made to fit 1.4mm clevis pin. So there is a small amount of slop on both sides. Ideally, you’d want the holes drilled in size to match the pushrod and clevis pin.

For the pushrods, found a Pushrod Kit (E-Flite part number EFL7083), it's for a E-Flite F-16 model. Cost is $5.99USD plus shipping. The stainless threaded pushrods are 1.2mm diameter (same as D2500).



The nylon clevis are very similar to what came on my D2500, especially the length, but the clevis pin is 1.4mm. That matches the D2500 horn perfectly. So the nylon clevis with this kit is better match.

The metal pushrods come in two lengths. The shorter lengths match the length of the Flap pushrods. The longer threaded rods can be easily shorten with a pair of hobby store Z-Bend Pliers.

No luck with replacement Control Horns or control horn screws.
The D2500 Control Horns use the following screws: Elevator: M1.5x10mm, Rudder, Ailerons, & Flaps: M1.5x13mm.

I found this Control Horn Set (ParkZone part number PKZ5318, cost $2.99USD plus shipping) for a P47D Thunderbolt model. This set’s horns are especially nice, in that the bases are much wider. Even with the wider bases, they can still be mounted back far enough to allow keeping the pushrod length the same dimensions and not interfere.



The horns are slightly taller, but have holes for 1.2mm clevis pins (which is ideal for D2500’s nylon clevis).



The horns can be easily shortened, leaving two holes at the same height as the D2500’s horn. They can also be drilled for 1.4mm clevis pins.

PKZ5318 comes with varying size Philips head screws ( 4 - M2x15, 4 – M2x18, 2 – M2x20 ). These could be easily shortened with a Dremel carbide cutoff wheel. .

Barry
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 10:36 AM
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United States, ID, Burley
Joined Mar 2012
3,355 Posts
ANyone know where a guy could buy one of these with flaps and bigger motor and 14.8 lipo ? Nitroplanes has one but it is the lower end one,no flaps,11.1v lipo,smaller motor.
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 11:56 AM
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Evansville, WI
Joined Dec 2006
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BANANA HOBBY is the supplier for the upgraded version. Who knows when they'll be back in stock though. I haven't seen them for sale anywhere else.
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 12:16 PM
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United States, CA, Camarillo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastfwd View Post
ANyone know where a guy could buy one of these with flaps and bigger motor and 14.8 lipo ? Nitroplanes has one but it is the lower end one,no flaps,11.1v lipo,smaller motor.
I believe the motors are the same with either model.

BananaHobby.com does have a e-mail notification of restocking. So, they would notifiy you when the ship arrives from China.

Consider that with the 60A model (with flap servos), the ESC is junk, the plastic gear servos are junk. Depending on where you live and shipping costs, you might be better off buying the less expensive model with 40A ESC (no flap servos) and upgrade the battery to 4S, the servos to metal gear type, and the ESC to another 60A with a built in 4A BEC. Nitroplanes.com web site currently shows the 40A model in stock.

Barry
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 03:28 PM
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Joined Dec 2006
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Why do you say the 60A ESC is junk? Mines been working flawlessly and has survived multiple crashes. Am I missing something?
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 05:13 PM
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United States, CA, Camarillo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bugman Jeff View Post
Why do you say the 60A ESC is junk? Mines been working flawlessly and has survived multiple crashes. Am I missing something?
Hello Jeff,

Glad you've had good luck with your ESC.

What I meant by 'junk', is that the parts performance specifications are too low for the size of the D2500. They would be just fine on smaller planes.

On the Art-Tech 60A ESC, if you look at my previous post where I showed my load testing of the BEC. The BEC was only able to supply 1.0 amp at 5.0 volts. The BEC did provide 3.5 amps, but the voltage with that load drops to 4.5 volts where the reliability of the servo and receiver performance come into question.

Same with the servos.... too weak for the size of the wing loads under some flight conditions. They have plastic gears, so are also more subject to damage with landings in brush or tall grass.

Barry
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 01:03 PM
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UK
Joined Oct 2001
120 Posts
Found a replacement motor

I have found a replacement motor for the 4S version of the D2500, the price is $17.59 or 10.91
It's called "Turnigy L3020B-600 Brushless Motor (800w)" and its from HK
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=14734

It fits perfectly in size and mountings, except the shaft is about 8mm to long - easily fixed with a dremel
Ground run shows static 35A / 500W , the original was 39A / 580W, but that may be just a different battery , if not I can always up prop a little (but this glider dosn't need more power).

1st flight with this motor should be this weekend, but I feel good about it.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 11:36 AM
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United States, CA, Camarillo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchellj View Post
I have found a replacement motor for the 4S version of the D2500, the price is $17.59 or 10.91
It's called "Turnigy L3020B-600 Brushless Motor (800w)" and its from HK
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=14734

It fits perfectly in size and mountings, except the shaft is about 8mm to long - easily fixed with a dremel
Ground run shows static 35A / 500W , the original was 39A / 580W, but that may be just a different battery , if not I can always up prop a little (but this glider dosn't need more power).

1st flight with this motor should be this weekend, but I feel good about it.
Nice find. The wire leads look too short. They need to reach at least 4" (10cm) so they can be connected inside the battery bay. Did you lengthen the leads with motor extensions or solder on longer leads?

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Old Oct 25, 2012, 09:50 PM
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United States, CA, Camarillo
Joined Jul 2012
390 Posts
Here’s a follow up to my previous post (post # 1067) which showed how I removed the plywood motor mount/firewall from my plane.

During the reinstallation, I upgrade the motor mount with four M3 blind nuts/M3x8mm cap screws, reinforced the foam fuselage behind the plywood firewall with carbon, and replace the drywall screws holding the plywood to the plastic cylinder using M2.2 threaded rod, nylon lock nuts, M2/M3 flat washer, and a carbon backing plate. This mod makes the motor mounting more secure than the factory setup with only a very small increase in weight.

Parts Purchased:

M3 blind nuts (4 required) from a eBay seller in the UK for $2.00USD plus $4.00 shipping in quantity of 10. HobbyKing.com also sells M3 blind nuts (10 for $0.80USD plus shipping).

M3x8mm cap screws (4 required) were also purchased on eBay for $4.55USD with shipping screws in quantity 25.

Two 2.3x80mm Control Rods (JR part number JRP980105, sold in pairs) on eBay for $3.86USD with shipping.

Four M2.2 nylon locknuts (Serpent part number SER110406, quantity 10 ) on eBay for $8.49USD including shipping.

Carbon sheet, 1mm thickness sheet, small quantity which was left over (scrap) from the wing mod (see post # 1045 of this thread).

Note: The JR Control Rods are described by JR as 2.3x80mm, but they measure to actually have M2.2x0.25 threads, so these are compatible with the M2.2 locknuts purchased. Could use up to M2.5x80mm long threaded rod without drilling wider the holes in the D2500’s plastic cylinder insert, but I could only find, in inexpensive, the M2.2x80mm in control rods.

Installing the Blind Nuts:

I made a drill guide to bore holes large enough to fit the blind nuts in the plywood. These holes need to be precisely located so motor aligns and does not interfere with the foam cover. I used the aluminum motor bracket as a template; C-clamping the bracket to a scrape piece of aluminum plate (1/4” thick x 1-1/2” wide), then using a 1/8” (3mm) drill bit and electric drill to spin the bit just enough to place center punch type divots in the aluminum plate. Then, after removing the motor bracket from the plate, I drilled 1/16” (1,6mm) pilot holes in each of the four screw locations. The pilot holes were further drillled with using a 5/32” (4.0mm) drill bit to finish the drill guide. The 5/32” drill is also size of the drill bit used to drill the plywood and matches the M3 blind nut barrels that were purchased.



With the drill guide made, I was ready to positioned it with the plywood motor mount/firewall, temporarily installing the factory wood screws until clamping was securely clamped. This further ensured the factory motor mount locations. When drilling like this, It’s also a good idea to mark the drill bit with a piece of tape to the appropriate drilling depth.



After drilling the holes, the blind nuts were tapped in with a hammer, anchoring them in place. I applied thin CA adhesive to the plywood around the blind nut flanges and trimmed the two top flanges where they were hanging over the edge.







Refitting the motor mount/firewall:

To reinforce the foam fuselage, I cut four pieces from 1mm thick carbon sheet (two-11mmx21mm and two-11mmx31mm) using a nibbling tool. These were inserted and glued in the recessed area of the foam and act as additional support between the plywood and the fuselage’s plastic cylinder insert.

The carbon frame sits slightly recessed with the leading foam edge, as this allows the plywood to make contact with the foam and also allow the blind nuts to sink into the foam when the threaded rods are tightened and foam safe glue is reapplied between the foam and plywood.



The carbon backing plate was made from 1mm thick carbon sheet (8mm wide x 39mm long), shaped using a nibbling tool. Two 3/32” (2.38mm) holes were punched 31mm apart (center to center) after drilling 1.0mm pilot holes to allow locating the hand punch.





Those were fit up photos, but I’ve since installed everything including the motor. Still need to reinstall the foam motor cover.

Barry
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 03:23 PM
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USA, FL, Clearwater
Joined Dec 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BG Bengtsson View Post
Hello everybody! Well, my meadow is not a thermal generator
You guys really have a good time. Spare Diamond... Phil, your a lucky guy
It was windy on saturday, but we were out filming how it looks to land with flaps!
http://vimeo.com/14892602
After a couple of fast rounds my RX closed a an approach! I found out that I had too much stroke on the flaps servo But look how she made a landing by here self! I think there was a overheat on the BEC.
Are you using a 3s? with this setup you have? i'm thinking of getting this one from Nitro Planes for $198 RTF but it only comes with 40a esc and 3s Lipo. I hear talk about 4s but what if i wanted to leave everything alone and use stock setup, will it have really good launching from your hand and almost go straight up or is 4s necessary.
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 05:29 PM
I'm a Registered User
Evansville, WI
Joined Dec 2006
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It won't go nearly straight up like it does on 4S, but it does fly fine on 3S.
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 05:31 PM
I'm a Registered User
Evansville, WI
Joined Dec 2006
3,690 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bugman Jeff View Post
Here's my latest mod, if you can all it that. I've noticed that when it's overcast, even my blaze orange plane turns into just a black shadow making orientation difficult to track. What I did was get a pair of THESE flashing dog collar pendants. They've got two blinking red LEDs in them, and are complete self contained units. Just switch them on and they start flashing. I took them out of their cases and hot glued them both on the left wing, right next to the servo horn bumps. Hopefully now I'll be able to tell left from right in the air to help keep orientation when it's not sunny out. If it doesn't work, I'm only out $4.30
Well, my little blinkys are a failure. While they seem bright inside, as soon as you're outside they are very hard to see. You can't see them at all when the plane is in the air. They'd work for flying at dusk, but not for general overcast day flying.
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