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Old Oct 01, 2012, 08:42 PM
.: Looking for Thermals :.
Ricardo RW's Avatar
Chile, Quinta Región de Valparaíso, Los Andes
Joined Jun 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisFlysRC View Post
Great Thread on the Diamond. I currentluy have been flying a Diamond 2500 and its a great glider.

I thought Id ask for some advise from other flyers for a two problems I have been having with the airplane.

First I am using the stock 60 ESC with the airplane. I have a Spectrum DX 7 and have the receiver Dual range receiver that is also also a spectrum. I have recently noticed after completely putting the power down the engine continues to keep running at a very slow speed while my throttle stick is completely down. I then have to push the power up slightly and back down for the motor and props to quit spinning. Motor is running uncontrolably at slow speeds.

Is it the ESC or motor?
The ESC is the culprit: you need to program the brake. See the manual of your ESC.

I had a lot of trouble setting the right CG. Even with my 4S 2.200 mAH batt. I had to add some lead on the tail. With my 4S 4.400 mAH batt. I need to add more lead on the tail.

I did the diving test to find the right CG spot and found that about 90mm back the leading edge is the sweet spot.

You don't mention your LIPO voltage, are they 4S?

Mine doesn't veer at full throttle when I launch her. How many amps at WOT does your motor suck?
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Old Oct 01, 2012, 09:01 PM
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United States, PA, Lebanon
Joined Oct 2007
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Diamond 2500

Id like to use a 40 ESC instead of the stock ESC. I have 2200 MA and 4000 MA Lipo batteries both 11.1 V. Can I replace the stock to stop the ESC from running the motor at low throttle?

Full throttle the airplane goes straight at half or 3/4 it veers to the left. I also you Aeronaut props due to stock props breaking. I read the thread fist to buy the blades to avoid that problem.

I am using Gorilla glue to fix the foam repairs.

Thanks for the information. What is the glider made after in the full scale glider world. I know the Fox is scale but what is the Diamond version in full scale?
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 12:59 AM
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United States, PA, Lebanon
Joined Oct 2007
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Diamond 2500 Carbon Wing Tube

Id like to purchase a replacement wing tube to use instead of the metal tube for the airplane. Id like to save weight for longer flights.

Has anyone replaced the metal tube for carbon? Does it fly any better with the carbon tube or is there any change from the stock metal wing tube?

If it flys better with the carbon wing joiner tube Id like to purchase one here to replace with one.

If someone would like to sell one I can purchase using pay pal.

Thanks for any help with the wing tube.
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 03:30 AM
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I cut my wing tube in half after i bent it in a crash. Saved a bit of weight!
I then put an old thin carbon tube (same length as old wing-tube) through the middle in order to ensure the wing tube stays central


If you search the thread there are posts somewhere about replacing the entire wing tube with a carbon rod. Can't remember if the tube is 11.5 or 12mm diameter.
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 12:15 PM
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BG Bengtsson's Avatar
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I did cut my Al tube in halfes (actually three) after a crach. I have marked the middle of the tube so I can see to put it in the middle. I put tape on the ends and in centre to keep it in position with some friction. More tape on the first wing!
I did buy these carbon fibre tube suggested. Diameter too large! Maybe 0.1mm! Maybe the squared tube in wing are smaller on earlier versions of the plane?
11.5mm would have fit.
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BG Bengtsson View Post
I did cut my Al tube in halfes (actually three) after a crach. I have marked the middle of the tube so I can see to put it in the middle. I put tape on the ends and in centre to keep it in position with some friction. More tape on the first wing!
I did buy these carbon fibre tube suggested. Diameter too large! Maybe 0.1mm! Maybe the squared tube in wing are smaller on earlier versions of the plane?
11.5mm would have fit.
BG,

I doubt the manufacturer made any changes there. Maybe the crash put a slight kink in your square tubes.

For only 0.1mm interference, you might try expanding the square tube with your aluminum pipe or a similar size piece of tubing, by making it slightly out of round on the end, adding some lubricant, and running it inside the square tube, while carefully rotating the pipe. The square pipe is very thin and easy to bend, so it shouldn't be hard to enlarge.

I measured my aluminum pipe to be 11.5mm, while the carbon tube I bought measures 12.0mm. The square wing tube opening measure about 11.8-12.0mm I.D. near the corners. Hope that helps.

Barry

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Last edited by Barry2020; Oct 03, 2012 at 11:32 AM.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 11:28 PM
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United States, CA, Camarillo
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Replaced the Servos

I replaced all the Art-Tech analog servos on my D2500 with some inexpensive 12 gram metal gear digital servos.

Used Henge MD933 servos with higher torque for the Ailerons and Flaps, and Henge MD922 servos with faster speeds for the Elevator and Rudder.

HobbyKing.com sells these same servos under their HobbyKing brand, but I purchased the Henge brand on eBay from a seller in China for about the same price with shipping to USA.



The Henge digital servos offer top ball bearing, metal gears, and current limiting digital electronics
.
My earlier post on servos has been updated to include the Henge servos (see post #966 on page 65 of this thread).

These servos do require some mods to make them fit. The servo wires for the wing servos need extending too.

Widening the servo slots in the foam wings/fuselage only requires removing a small amount of foam on one side. For this, I used a small piece of aluminum sheet metal, inserted with the Art-Tech servo in the servo slot. The aluminum piece, with end bent for additional width, provided a cutting guide. With a piece of tape on the blade to mark the cutting depth, I made the foam cuts using a square to ensure I was cutting square with the original slot.



Here’s the larger Henge servo fitted to the wing servo slot after removing some foam. Notice the servo mounting tabs have also been removed, as they don't align with the foam slots.



I wanted easily removable servos, so I made servo slot liners from CA hinge material (also called ‘hinge CA’) that was purchased from HobbyKing.com.



Here’s one of the liners glued in the servo slot with foam safe glue..



I also wrapped all servos in Tyvek sleeves and glued the closing flaps with foam safe glue. The Tyvek material came from free USPS Priority Mailers.



The servos were then mounted in the servos slots, while only gluing the sides with foam safe glue.



So, the servos can be easily removed after just pulling up the glued down tyvek flaps.

Templates for the liners and sleeves were made using the markup tools in Adobe Acrobat on graph paper in a PDF file. I downloaded the graph paper from this web page..

http://www.incompetech.com/graphpaper/plain/



.. then printed the templates with a laser printer on paper with Post-it notes. Transferring the Post-it notes to the material, the shapes could be easily cut with scissors.



Here’s a photo showing one of the Flap servos after being installed..



The liner for the Rudder servo slot required cutting a slot to accommodate the servo wiring routing and servo connector..





I’ll cover the servos with plastic tape, similar to the factory paper covers.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 05:42 AM
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Barry that was a good way of "glueing" the servo to the foam! I did glue them diretly in. And now I have trouble adjusting the servo arm splines to the best position!

Regarding the carbon rod. The goodwind pipe is measured between 11.91-11.94mm and the original Al pipe 11.43-11.46mm. I have now measured the squared hole to 11.70x11.70mm.
I did test to sandpaper the carbon pipe. It was very easy! I have just tested on one end of the carbon pipe. Four lines of sanding down 0.15mm on each side makes a "squared" pipe with diameter 11.65 up to original 12mm. Rotating the pipe a little and it sticks to the wing! Target will be to have a pipe that sticks to the first wing by a small rotation and then slips into the other. I will sand half of the pipe to clearens into one wing and then mark the rotated new top line for the other wing and see if I can do it to slip into that wing.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 12:00 PM
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United States, PA, Lebanon
Joined Oct 2007
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Diamond 2500 Replancement Servos

Thanks for the post to my Diamond 2500 question reguarding the wing tube and flight characterists. This is a great thread posted here on RC Groups.

My next question is replacing the servos for the ailerons. Both were stock and had long servo leads. I would like to get two to three 8 to 6 inch servo extension to make the conversion easy and trouble free.

Would digital servos be good or maybe a lower more reliable servos for the airplane.

Also what the best 60 Amp ECS for the airplane. I know Castle Creations make some of the best ESC's on the market but I dont want to pay that much. Reliability is a priority due to my flights sometimes going above 1000 MSL during some of my flights.

Thanks for any post on these subjects.

Chris
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 12:35 PM
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United States, CA, Camarillo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisFlysRC View Post
Thanks for the post to my Diamond 2500 question reguarding the wing tube and flight characterists. This is a great thread posted here on RC Groups.

My next question is replacing the servos for the ailerons. Both were stock and had long servo leads. I would like to get two to three 8 to 6 inch servo extension to make the conversion easy and trouble free.

Would digital servos be good or maybe a lower more reliable servos for the airplane.

Also what the best 60 Amp ECS for the airplane. I know Castle Creations make some of the best ESC's on the market but I dont want to pay that much. Reliability is a priority due to my flights sometimes going above 1000 MSL during some of my flights.

Thanks for any post on these subjects.

Chris
Chris,

For the digital servos, I upgraded all of the servo wiring to AWG-26 servo wire. HobbyKing sells this wire by length. They also sell JR terminals and connector housings and a good crimping tool. So I was able to make the appropriate length servo extensions.

As for increasing the servo wire length on the Aileron and Flap servos, I cut off the servo leads about 1/2" from the servo, then spliced and soldered longer AWG-26 servo wire. I used liquid electrical tape at the splice, then removed the screws on the servo and tucked the soldered splice inside the servo housing for clean appearance.

For the soldering of the splice, I used a 'helping hands' type soldering aid with magnifier and third hand tool to guide the low watt soldering iron tip under magnification (eliminates the shakes).

On the ESC. It depends on what your needs are for the BEC. You might want to run a seperate BEC. Do you need 5.5V BEC or 6.0V BEC?

Here are two good choices of ESCs that can handle higher currents.

This 60A ESC only supports 5.5V @4A...

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ontroller.html

This 65A ESC supports both 5.25V and 6.0V @4A..

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...hless_ESC.html

Barry
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 01:03 PM
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Chris,
I'm with Barry on this. I make my own leads for my servos with a spool of 26-28ga three-strand servo lead.
i go about it a little differently removing the stock lead from the servo completely by opening the servo case, heating the pads and removing the servo lead. i then cut my own lead to whatever length i choose, solder that to the pads on the PCB inside the case, strip - tin & crimp the connector on the other end and i'm done.

on a similar note, i use digital servos for my ailerons and analog servos for my flaps to conserve power.
as was stated earlier in this thread and in many other threads across may web forums, digital servos are always 'ON' constantly drawing power and recentering themselves to be more precise. they also update much faster than analog servos to a new location due to processor frequency/clock speed.
Analog servos almost go 'dormant' once they have reached a specified angle. so when the motor is not running they have a very low power consumption.
since i rarely make adjustments to my flaps, i use low draw servos (analog)

cheers,
Brian
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 06:20 PM
.: Looking for Thermals :.
Ricardo RW's Avatar
Chile, Quinta Región de Valparaíso, Los Andes
Joined Jun 2002
857 Posts
Hey guys,

Last Sunday started as a very foggy day and about 11.30 the sun broke in.

I flew my Diamond 2500 with Hitec Aurora 9 blue telemetry on board equipped with GPS and current sensor.

I recorded the flights on a laptop and then I (sort of) did some reverse engineer the text file, drop it onto Excel and have a nice graphic.

I'd like to share my longest flight, about 15 minutes, with only two short burst of full throttle, the first lasted 48 seconds and the other one only 22 seconds.

Caught some nice thermals as shown.

I used a 14.8V-2200mAH Lipo with a 40amp ESC (Dualsky) and 3amp UBEC.

As you can see, voltage across all flight time was very steady telling me that I can make longer flights. On the second burst, the voltage dropped from 15.7V to 14.4@32ish amps. From there, the Lipo was steady at 15.2 volts.

I used full trailing edge camber on thermals, dropping 3mm flaps and ailerons. she slows up and can center and lock the thermals. As the span is 2500mm long I had no problem spotting her at nearly 290mts (~1000ft)

The day wasn't promising for thermals (too foggy) but with this nice plane was a pleasure hunting them.

Regards
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 06:24 PM
.: Looking for Thermals :.
Ricardo RW's Avatar
Chile, Quinta Región de Valparaíso, Los Andes
Joined Jun 2002
857 Posts
Regarding wing servos, I purchased my Diamond only with ailerons servos and have to install flap servos. I chose HS55 and, when running the cables through the channels, I realized that stock servos used very thin wires, I suggest to replace them.

Cheers.
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 02:27 PM
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Carbon Wing Joiner Rod

Thanks BG and all who have posted information.

I am currently building up my 2nd D-2500 with many of the improvement mods. My 1st one was totally destroyed (including battery, ESC, Rx, motor, fues) when the elevator servo wire shorted out on the sharp edge of the vertical fin tube. This was a 45 deg. full speed give straight in. If I had thought fast enough to exted the flaps this would have greatly reduced the damage. Most of the servos survived and the carbon wing joiner was not damaged. The square steel tube spars were bowed but the carbon rod/tube was extracted and showed no sign of damage.

I would say the wing joiner rod is necessary to stiffen the spar which measures 35.5 inches long in each wing for a total of 71 inches. The stock aluminum pipe is 33.5 inches which almost extends to 1/2 the spar length. When I straightened out the bowed wings without the carbon joiner installed the square steel spar was very easy to bend indicating to me that the steel spar needs to be reinforced with the joiner rod. The carbon tube is much stiffer than the aluminum pipe which will bend in a crash.

Regarding the carbon tube joiner rod from Goodwinds purchased Jan 2012
http://www.goodwinds.com/goodwinds/m...ultrudedcarbon (product number 020979) I measured it at (32.375 x 0.467 OD x 0.356 ID inches) and 59.0g. Goodwinds lists the O.D. at 0.4720 inches which is 11.99 mm. This is however not what I measured (0.467” = 11.86 mm). Not sure who is the original manufacture of if there was a change. The 11.86 mm carbon tube is a perfect fit without sanding in both my old and new wings, so no change has been made in the square steel tube spar. What I did find is square tube opening in both the older and newer wing is deformed making the opening smaller. This is most likely the result of being cut with an abrasive cutoff wheel. I used a very fine steel file to file down the deformed opening and the carbon tube fits snug with zero clearance.

What I was disappointed about in the new D-2500 is the wing root joint has a 1/16” offset and will not come together without being in a bad bind as was reported by Barry2020. The problem is the result of the spar being mounted into the foam wing with some offset for some reason in the current production run. The fix is to rempve the 1/16” plywood wing root reinforcement which is easily pulled off both wings and replaced with 1/32” plywood, aluminum or carbon. I used epoxy glue which is much stronger than whatever the origional glue was with lots of small holes punched into the foam surface for the epoxy to have a better grip.

The D-2500 flies very nice and has more power than necessary on 4S battery (200 M climb in less than 20 sec). It is surving my goal of improving pilot skill with cheep full house glider before investing in a expensive high performance glider...Mark
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 07:51 PM
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Hey guys, I've put this glider together this week. Did a lot of the modes suggested in this thread, but I can't find the measurements for the control throws anywhere.
not in the manual or in this thread.
Could someone be kind enough to post the measurements that they used for the ail., rud., and elevator. Your help would be greatly appreciated
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