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Old Jul 28, 2012, 12:45 AM
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USA, FL, Bradenton
Joined Oct 2007
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How does the Phoenix Evolution Electric RC Glider Airplane Plane 2600mm/103''

Wonder if anyone has tried this large power glider aswell.
It also can come with flaps looks like.
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 07:41 PM
.: Looking for Thermals :.
Ricardo RW's Avatar
Chile, Quinta Región de Valparaíso, Los Andes
Joined Jun 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videorov View Post
Wonder if anyone has tried this large power glider aswell.
It also can come with flaps looks like.
Please post a picture or a link,

Thanx.
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 11:18 PM
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United States, CA, Camarillo
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Installed hinges on the control surfaces

I installed hinges on the elevator, ailerons, and flaps of my Diamond this week.

Installed six hinges on each control surface and used these “Super Light Pivot & Round Hinges D2xW8xL28mm” from HobbyKing.



These hinges are extremely durable, but the nice thing about these hinges is you don’t need to be concerned with keeping glue off the pivot joint.

They are also pretty easy to install, but I made a metal templates (one each for elevator, ailerons, flaps) from aluminum flashing to ensure proper alignment of the two foam pieces. The aluminum flashing was from local hardware store and comes as 6"Wx50' roll, sold by foot (about $1.00USD per foot); I bought a 2 foot length.

Each template marks the hole positions for the six hinges on each control surface. Here’s the layout I used for the hole/hinge spacing…

Ailerons: /---11mm--|----87mm---|---87mm---|---87mm---|----87mm----|----87mm----|--11mm---/
Flaps: /---12mm--|----85mm---|---85mm---|---85mm---|----85mm----|----85mm----|--12mm---/
Elevator: /---8mm--|----92mm---|---92mm---|---92mm---|----92mm----|----92mm----|--8mm---/

Before cutting off the control surface, I marked the first hinge location on one side. Then I used masking tape and a piece of aluminum flashing as the straight edge to guide the exacto knife. No sanding was required after making the cut.





I prepared the hinges for installation by inserting straight pins through the pivot. This provides a position marker of the pivot after gluing the control surface back onto the wing. With the hinges installed, I butted up the two foam surfaces, so there’s no way to see the location of the pivot without using the straight pins. After ensuring the hinge pivot is in the correct position, I removed the pins.



You can’t drill holes in the foam. To make the holes, I used a sharp pointer (1/16” diameter) to punch the holes. After placing holes on each end for the outer hinges, I inserted 1/16” brass tubing in them to hold the template while punching the other holes.



It’s important to make the holes at a 90 degree angle to the pivot line.
Here’s another view of the hole punching.



After punching all the holes, I used my exactor knife to cut 45 degree slots at each hole to allow the widened area of the hinge to be inserted subsurface.
For the glue, I used this flexible foam-safe glue…..



This glue stays flexible after drying and doesn’t seem to harm the hinge pivot at all. After a day or two, I removed small blobs of glue at the hinge points from both sides, further freeing up the pivots and hinge movement.

The control surfaces are butted up (no gaps) so the hinges are hidden from view. The wings looks pretty much like they did before I installed the hinges. There's also much less resistance to movement.

Here's some photos showing the control surfaces re-attached with the hinges.






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Old Aug 19, 2012, 09:07 PM
I'm a Registered User
Evansville, WI
Joined Dec 2006
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I decided my D2500 had had enough time to think about what's it's done and I glued it back together. I'm finally figured out both how to fly, and more importantly, how to land this plane The secret is a wide open field Trying to land on the road just doesn't work for me, it's to narrow and I can't always land into the wind. The recently mowed Alfalfa field behind my house makes a great flying field. I've also learned that I need to use the rudder more. Aileron turns seem to cause a lot of side sliding, and as happened to me before, can lead to a spiraling dive if done without enough speed. I tried both crow and standard flaps, I actually like just the flaps better for landing. The crow works fine if I can come in straight, but if I have to do much turning it'll stall into the previously mentioned spiral. I had my trusty #11 keychain cam on the tail, although I forgot to turn it on for my longest flight. All in all, I successfully landed 5 flights today

Also, two VERY important things to watch out for: Put some heatshrink or fuel tubing over the clevises. One of my minor crashes was because an aileron link popped off, and the remaining aileron wasn't enough to level the plane. Also, while assembling the plane this time, one of the aileron servo plug pins worked loose from the socket, it would have stopped contacting in flight if I hadn't noticed it.
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRFASTPHIL View Post
....i have purchased two Diamond 2500's from Banana, both were shipped promptly, arrived without damage, and flew great.
They are quite capable of getting the box from their suppliers and posting it to the customer. The bad reputation shows itself when the customer has a complaint or needs them to help in some way (like replying).
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Old Aug 22, 2012, 02:53 PM
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United States, CA, Camarillo
Joined Jul 2012
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I've purchased a few inexpensive replacement servos from HobbyKing for testing. They are a mix of digital, analog, metal gear, and nylon gear.

These apparently came from the same factory, as they are all 'exact fit' replacements with the Art-Tech AS-100 servos that came with my Diamond 2500. The only exception is that they come with wiring that’s too short for use on the main wing without wiring modifications.



Here’s a photo showing (left to right) the HK-15178B (digital), HKSCM9-6 (digital), HK15178 (analog), and the Art-Tech AS-100 (analog)….



Taking them apart to see the gears or replace the wiring cables requires a special #000 screwdriver (Philips, PH000). In this photo, you can see the plastic and brass/steel gears.



The plastic gears look interchangeable, but the metal gears look to have different ratios. The HK15178 (analog) has what looks like it could have carbon-composite output gears, but I’m not sure that’s what they are.

I have a Turnigy Servo Tester and also a digital watt meter, so I was able to make some electrical tests. Here’s the test results…



I've updated the above table with some additional servos that I tested. Here's a photo showing the Henge MD933 next to the Art-Tech AS-100. The Henge servos are slightly taller, but the same width and thickness.



I installed four of the Henge MD933 on the main wing, and two of the Henge MD922 for the Elevator and Rudder. These are the same as what HobbyKing.com sells as HK-933MG and HK-922MG. I found that the Henge can be purchased from China on eBay for about the same price with shipping as buying from HobbyKing.com.

I also upgraded all servo wiring to AWG-26. To fit the Henge servos, removed the mounting tabs by nibbling them off with a box cutter. I also widened the wing servo slot. I will provide details of these mods and the installation in a future post.
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Old Aug 22, 2012, 03:01 PM
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Barry,
I run an external 5A BEC on 6v on my D2500. for a couple reasons.
1: if the ESC ever fry's, i'd like to dead stick my sailplane down safely. the couple of grams penalty is worth the insurance.
2: i've seen some of my little digital servos pull close to 1A at stall torque, so my general rule is #of servos x 1 = Peak Amp draw.

i also regularly use digital servos on all control surfaces & analog on flaps (that sit at idle for the majority of my flight)

cheers,
Brian
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Last edited by TooSLow2Care; Aug 22, 2012 at 03:01 PM. Reason: spelling... what we lose from having computers
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Old Aug 23, 2012, 08:16 AM
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Portugal
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Does anybody has pics about the motor mount?
Is it a plastic glued to the fuselage foam?

Thanks
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Old Aug 23, 2012, 08:47 AM
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United States, CO, Aspen
Joined Oct 2010
794 Posts
motor mount

Quote:
Originally Posted by HF_ATL View Post
Does anybody has pics about the motor mount?
Is it a plastic glued to the fuselage foam?

Thanks
Shucks, I just had mine apart for repair. It's been awhile since I visited this thread. I wished I had thought of photographing the motor mount innards while apart.

Here is what I remember though. The motor (mounting plate) is screwed to a circular wooden motor mounting plate via 4 screws in the standard manner. The wooden plate is then screwed with 2 screws that look like drywall screws to the internal plastic mount which is glued to the foam.

Hope this helps.
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Old Aug 23, 2012, 08:55 AM
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Portugal
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That helps for sure BravoGolf, thanks!

Any idea if a 38mm motor diameter will fit there? As far as I know stock motor has an outside diameter of 30mm.


Quote:
Originally Posted by BravoGolf View Post
Shucks, I just had mine apart for repair. It's been awhile since I visited this thread. I wished I had thought of photographing the motor mount innards while apart.

Here is what I remember though. The motor (mounting plate) is screwed to a circular wooden motor mounting plate via 4 screws in the standard manner. The wooden plate is then screwed with 2 screws that look like drywall screws to the internal plastic mount which is glued to the foam.

Hope this helps.
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Old Aug 23, 2012, 10:10 AM
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I'll take images tonight. I have my nose cone cut off at the moment & am willing to share!

cheers,
Brian
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Old Aug 23, 2012, 10:33 AM
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Thanks Brian, I really appreciate!
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Old Aug 23, 2012, 10:22 PM
insert witty phrase here
Joined Aug 2006
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Here are images of the exterior and interior of the motor mount.

Cheers,
Brian

(odd how they are rotated... took them with the iPhone and they appear fine on my computer...sorry)
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Old Aug 23, 2012, 10:26 PM
I'm a Registered User
Evansville, WI
Joined Dec 2006
3,683 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by BravoGolf View Post
Here is what I remember though. The motor (mounting plate) is screwed to a circular wooden motor mounting plate via 4 screws in the standard manner. The wooden plate is then screwed with 2 screws that look like drywall screws to the internal plastic mount which is glued to the foam.

Hope this helps.
I can back this up. It perfectly describes the motor mount in my plane, "drywall" screws and all. The stock motor is 37mm diameter, so a 38mm motor should fit fine.
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Old Aug 24, 2012, 05:25 AM
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Portugal
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Thanks Brian and Bugman_Jeff for your help!
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