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Old May 21, 2012, 05:56 PM
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Hello, Diamond pilots of the world. I'm a re-newbie, coming back to RC flying after 20 years away. Once upon a time I flew a Gentle Lady, but now I'm the happy owner of a new Diamond 2500.

Mostly happy, anyway. I'll get to the less happy part later. First I want to mention two things for the sake of other new flyers. First, it was simulator practice that got my new plane up and down safely on the maiden flight. Doesn't have to be fancy software, FMS or Clearview are fine. Practice with a sim until the right moves are habits.

Second, to trim your glider for first flight, a field of tall grass is your best friend. I learned this back in my Gentle Lady days and it served well again in getting my Diamond ready. The taller the grass, the better - it's a giant safety net for an untested plane. You don't need power, just toss and trim until the plane will fly straight and level. This also gives you a chance to get a bit of a feel for how the plane handles before you commit to more demanding flight.

So that's my newb advice for other newbies learning to fly on their own. As for my Diamond, I love it. I bought the simplified version from Nitro Planes. I wanted the full house, but would have had to wait because it wasn't in stock at NP or Banana. Delayed gratification was not acceptable, so I ordered the simpler, no flaps version. I also bought servos and extension leads so I can put flaps in when I want'em.

By the way, I keep seeing reference to the 'smaller motor' in the simplified version. This is incorrect, according to this page at the manufacturer's site:

http://www.art-tech.com/english/Arti...?ArticleID=261

It's the electronic speed control that's different. 40 amp in the simple setup, 60 amp in the full house. The other differences being a bigger battery and functional flaps in the full house.

This brings me to the one thing I'm not thrilled about in my Diamond. I can't take advantage of the programmable features of the ESC. But I think that's a topic that needs a separate post, to make life easier for future searchers. So I'll end here and write a different post on my ESC programming issues.

Dev.
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Old May 21, 2012, 06:08 PM
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Ricardo RW's Avatar
Chile, Quinta Región de Valparaíso, Los Andes
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Originally Posted by dev367 View Post
... But I think that's a topic that needs a separate post, to make life easier for future searchers. So I'll end here and write a different post on my ESC programming issues.

Dev.
Please post the link, I'm stuck with an ESC programming issue, can't maiden her yet.
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Old May 21, 2012, 06:21 PM
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United States, PA, Gettysburg
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Programming (or not) the 40A ESC that comes stock in the simplified Diamond 2500.

I have the ESC pdf manual that gieves1 posted here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...m#post18932200

Many thanks, gieves1, for putting that file up. It doesn't solve all my problems with the ESC I have, but without that file I would be completely lost. It gave me a starting point, at least.

Unfortunately the table of codes in that pdf is not correct for my ESC. The manual says there are 10 programmable features, but my ESC has only 8 tone codes and the last 2 of them don't have any options to select. So I am in the process of trying to figure out which features are actually available on my 40A ESC, and which codes apply to which features. I'm posting this info here in the hope that others might have figured out some or all of this already. If not, maybe we can work together to sort this out. There are some nice features I would like to tweak in my speed controller.

Here are the tone codes I hear when I boot my ESC in program mode:

After 5 rising tones - "doe, ray, me, fa, so," the ESC cycles through 8 feature codes. I will use the caret symbol ^ to indicate a higher pitch tone.

1.) Beep
2.) Beep Beep
3.) Beep Beep Beep
4.) Beep Beep Beep Beep
5.) ^Beep
6.) ^Beep Beep
7.) ^Beep Beep-Beep
8.) ^Beep ^Beep

Each of the first three codes contains two options, indicated by one beep or two.

The next three codes, 4, 5, 6, contain three options, indicated by one beep, two beeps, or three beeps.

The last two codes, 7 and 8, contain no options.

My plan is to methodically work through the codes, changing one thing and testing for effect. This will be a long slow process but if I get it figured out I'll write it up and post as a new pdf in this thread.

I've managed to determine that the first code is the brake - I think. When enabled I can feel a mild resistance when I turn my motor by hand (prop removed). But the resistance doesn't seem strong enough. Can anyone confirm what a braked motor feels like when manually rotated?

I've also confirmed that the second code is battery selection, choosing between lipo or nimh/nicad. And the seventh code is a toggle that resets the ESC to factory defaults.

A question for full house Diamond pilots - Do the tone codes of your 60Amp ESC match the pdf manual, or the codes I've posted here?
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Old May 21, 2012, 06:32 PM
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United States, IL, Hinckley
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DEV367 - I understand your frustration with programming the blasted thing. I took me forever to find that document. I have the 60A ESC version and the beeps matched up (fun trying to sort those things out isn't it). The programming is probably slightly different. I think I recall the first set of beeps setting throttle and the second set being the brake.

The brake function is what was out of whack on mine and had to be reset. The motor does seem to have slightly restrained turn when it is armed. You will certainly notice a difference when you test run it. Instead of spinning freely after you kill power it will abruptly stop.

That was the only thing I had to setup on the ESC. All my full house features have been done on 11x or Dx7.
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Old May 21, 2012, 06:41 PM
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Ricardo RW's Avatar
Chile, Quinta Región de Valparaíso, Los Andes
Joined Jun 2002
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Originally Posted by dev367 View Post
Programming (or not) the 40A ESC that comes stock in the simplified Diamond 2500.


Here are the tone codes I hear when I boot my ESC in program mode:

After 5 rising tones - "doe, ray, me, fa, so," the ESC cycles through 8 feature codes. I will use the caret symbol ^ to indicate a higher pitch tone.

1.) Beep
2.) Beep Beep
3.) Beep Beep Beep
4.) Beep Beep Beep Beep
5.) ^Beep
6.) ^Beep Beep
7.) ^Beep Beep-Beep
8.) ^Beep ^Beep
How do you enter the programming mode?

Also, could you program your radio throttle range?

Is the 40A ESC only for 11.1 volts?

Either I start with hi or low throttle, when I change the throttle, it beeps four times, the last one with a lower tone. That's all it does
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Old May 21, 2012, 08:10 PM
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Thanks again Geives, for another piece of the puzzle. You're right it is interesting to try to figure this out, especially since I'm rained out today and tomorrow anyway - I still get to play with my new toy.

Ricardo, to enter program mode you start with your ESC disconnected from battery. Turn on Tx and set throttle to max. Then connect your ESC to battery. I prefer to do this with the prop removed because I really don't like turning on my Tx with throttle maxed. Anyway, when you power the ESC with throttle at max you will hear 3 quick, rising tones, a pause, then two beeps.

If you do nothing for 5 seconds after the 2 beeps, you automatically enter program mode. You'll know when this happens because you'll hear the 5 rising tones as I described in my previous post.

If you move throttle to minimum before 5 seconds, that will calibrate your throttle.

The four beeps you describe sounds like the normal startup. 3 beeps, pause, 1 beep. That's if your power supply is a 3 cell lipo. A 4 cell will produce 4 beeps, pause, 1 beep.

The last beep is supposed to indicate the brake is on, and change to 2 beeps when the brake is off. I have checked and rechecked this - for me it doesn't matter if the brake is on or not, I always get just one beep after the pause.

Sorry I don't know the voltage limit on these ESCs.

You may find it helpful to grab that pdf that Gieves posted (linked in my previous post). The codes don't match the 40A ESC, but the calibration and program mode access instructions are correct.

Last thing, your motor must be plugged in to your ESC for any of this to work. I'm near my keyboard for at least the next half hour so I might be able to help right away if needed. Good luck.

Dev
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Old May 21, 2012, 08:42 PM
I'm a Registered User
Evansville, WI
Joined Dec 2006
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Originally Posted by allanpro View Post
For some reason they dont use a Y-harness for the ailerons... they just managed to use one servo connector plug for 2 servos... it sucks! So if you need to seperate them you have to buy some new connectors and a crimp tool to make your own. Alternatively you can replace the servos all together...

What have you done?
I just snipped the plug off one of my many stripped servos and soldered it onto the second aileron servo. Didn't cost a thing I can't believe there's anyone in RC that doesn't have a few stripped servos around
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Old May 22, 2012, 08:26 AM
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I just snipped the plug off one of my many stripped servos and soldered it onto the second aileron servo. Didn't cost a thing I can't believe there's anyone in RC that doesn't have a few stripped servos around
On mine I've ditched all "Y" harnesses on the ailerons and flaps and plugged them into separate channels on an AR7600. This gives me the ability to perform full-house functions and allows for separate sub trim to each surface individually.
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Old May 22, 2012, 09:04 AM
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Chile, Quinta Región de Valparaíso, Los Andes
Joined Jun 2002
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Art-Tech response

Finally received the answer from Art-tech.

They sent me the same manual that gieves1 post on here

They also said that the 30A ESC does not work with 4S Lipos (14.8V), only 3S (11.1V)

When I bought the Diamond, the guy in the LHS told me it needs 4S so I bought two packs...

I'll buy another ESC rated for 4S Lipos.

Regards.
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Old May 22, 2012, 04:14 PM
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United States, PA, Gettysburg
Joined Apr 2008
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40A ESC programming victory

I found the code table that applies to my ESC, the 40Amp version that comes stock with the simplified Diamond 2500. So now I feel like Indiana Jones of the Internet.

For those of you with the same ESC, you'll find the codes on the last page of the linked pdf. I have no idea if the rest of the document is accurate, since obviously it's written for a Hobby Wing ESC. But I know the codes are right. Probably the same electronics rebranded, I'd guess.

Codes are here: http://www.hobbywing.com/uploadfiles...l/HW-01-SW.pdf

Now I'm gonna try bumping up the timing to High, and enable soft start to hopefully prolong the life of that giant prop the Diamond swings. Then when all this rain is done....

Dev
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Last edited by dev367; May 22, 2012 at 04:34 PM.
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Old May 27, 2012, 04:23 PM
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United States, PA, Gettysburg
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update

Just in from another round with the Diamond. Having a great time with this plane. The change to high timing on the ESC was the right move, it eliminated the high pitched whine of the motor. No noticeable effect on power output. Soft start is definitely a gentler way to spin up the prop, I've kept that setting too.

I've learned to put my 2200 mAh battery (weighs 176 grams) all the way forward now. (Factory nose weights are removed, as are wing weights) I started flying with it all the way back, which put cg at recommended 80 mm from leading edge. But with that arrangement, take-offs were like: ... !!... ... . ... The weight was too far back and the plane would try to stand on its tail and stall.

That problem was compounded by my slow launch tosses. Too slow, and the torque roll is significant - the plane rolls left pretty quick. Combined with being on the edge of stalling, well, that was just way more excitement than I really need at 10 feet altitude. A toss with power off doesn't reveal these tendencies, if it's trimmed out it just glides out nice as you please.

Lessons learned, battery forward and throw like ya mean it. Still have to fight the nose coming up too high in the climb, but it's manageable now. And it goes out level with a proper toss.

With a gentle breeze and no lift I get at least half an hour in the air on the 2200 mAh batt. Climb and soar. When that's done I use a couple 1500 mAh 20c I have on hand, and get another 15 min each. These numbers get a little better every time I go out as I learn to handle the Diamond. I don't see a need to go to a bigger batt for this kind of flying, but that's running without flap servos installed. I can see where a little more power might be good for full house setup, with the extra weight and increased power demand from two more servos.

The next big thing on the horizon will be to set up my radio, a Flysky TH9x, with flaperons so I can dial in some camber when I want it. That's a way down the road, gotta get set up to reflash my radio firmware first. Long term, the goal is to squeeze all possible soaring performance out of the Diamond. It's been called a 'lead sled', well, we'll see about that. I heart my Diamond 2500.

Happy Landings,
Dev
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Old May 27, 2012, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by dev367 View Post
...(Factory nose weights are removed, as are wing weights)...
Dev
Hi Dev,

I've read some posts about removing wing weights. How did you do that? Where are those wing weights? Can you post a picture please?

Thanx in advance.

Ricardo
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Old May 27, 2012, 08:54 PM
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United States, PA, Gettysburg
Joined Apr 2008
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Hiya Ricardo, no need for a pic it's pretty easy. Just look at the underside of the wings where the pattern decals are, before the wing begins to curl up. Looking carefully you will see a square of tape hidden by the decal. Under the tape is the weight.

Hope you got your ESC issue sorted, are you flying yet?

Dev
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Old May 28, 2012, 08:47 AM
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Ricardo RW's Avatar
Chile, Quinta Región de Valparaíso, Los Andes
Joined Jun 2002
864 Posts
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Originally Posted by dev367 View Post
...Hope you got your ESC issue sorted, are you flying yet?

Dev
Not maiden flight yet. Besides the ESC problem (already bought a new one) I'm having problems programming my radio, a Royal EVO. I have an old radio sitting around (Hitec Eclipse 7) so I will use it for this plane.

Couldn't work this past weekend, family activities kept me away from the workbench and there was a huge storm here, a lot of rain and 70 to 80 mph winds.

Winter is coming...
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Old May 29, 2012, 05:43 AM
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I would like to color a lower part of the wings to make it visible my Arcus Sports. I want to color them with a water color. Can you suggest a nice design to make? Thank you.
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