Anyone rewound a Turnigy 35-30 1700Kv?

Fishjunky · Oct 28, 2009, 10:59 PM

I'm curious to see if anyone has rewound one of these?

I'm trying to figure out if I have to pull the stator off in order to rewind it.

IBCrazy · Oct 29, 2009, 12:43 AM

You don't need to pull the stator, but it will help you get a better winding. Pull the bearings out of the motor and put a soldering iron in the bearing tube. this will warm up the epoxy holding the stator in place (if there even is any). Once it gets warm, drive 3mm screws through the backplate into the stator windings. You can put a piece of metal in between the screw and the stator to protect the stator insulation if you want. This will drive the stator out so you have room to work. You don't need to take the whole thing off, but just move it out an inch is plenty.

-Alex

yangster · Oct 29, 2009, 01:36 AM

good Luck! I couldn't get the stator off and when I did I ended up destroying the motor in the process. If you get it off, let me know how easy it was.

manuel v · Oct 29, 2009, 02:53 AM

Fishjunky.

Check post 10,11 and 12.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1079423

Manuel V.

Fishjunky · Oct 30, 2009, 12:56 AM

Thanks for the help all! I'll give it a shot and see how it goes. I have two possible victims, one's mine.

Fishjunky · Nov 04, 2009, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yangster

good Luck! I couldn't get the stator off and when I did I ended up destroying the motor in the process. If you get it off, let me know how easy it was.

I got the stator off but it wasn't easy. I inflicted some minor damage to the aluminum housing, that I'm hoping won't affect it too much.

I used a 60 W soldering iron to heat up the metal after removing the bearings. I then used a battery terminal puller with two nuts in the bearing hole to push against. This left some marks down inside where the ring is that the bearing rests against.

I could not get the windings off in such a manner that I could count how many turns, also some of the ceramic coating was chipped off in the process. There was so much epoxy in the windings that it would not come undone.

Truglodite · Nov 05, 2009, 04:24 PM

I have one of these motors too, and feel it's not airworthy with the stock windings (it is sitting in my spares box collecting dust). I haven't seen any decent rewinding results from these motors yet, and it seems like a rewind would have to be spectacular for all the labor involved. Please let us know how it turns out when your done.

Cheers,
Kev

dashunde · Nov 05, 2009, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Truglodite

I have one of these motors too, and feel it's not airworthy with the stock windings....

Same for their stock bearings.

Fishjunky · Nov 05, 2009, 10:16 PM

I don't really know much about how to do a proper bench test. I rewound one of the motors today with 8T of 24G wire. Lots of space left but it's the biggest wire I had on hand.

Here is the Eagle Tree data with no load, not sure how to interpret it though.
edit Sorry I didn't have the RPM logger calibrated correctly for this motor. The log below now reflects a 14 pole motor with a direct drive 1:1 ratio. Am I correct in using the number of magnet poles? Or should I be using the 12 stator pole number?

My next one will be with 22 or 20 gauge wire.

Truglodite · Nov 07, 2009, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fishjunky

Here is the Eagle Tree data with no load, not sure how to interpret it though.

Ideally you want to hold WOT for a little longer, so the WOT part of the graph is somewhat flat; what you have is more of a peak than a plateau. That has more to do with bench testing method than interpreting the graph though. Anyhow, as long as you capture at least one data point at WOT, your results will be good enough to discuss... it's just that numerous data points from a flat WOT line helps filter out the "spikes" in the data. If your single data point happens to be a spike, your predictions will stray from reality.

How to interpret the chart?
To get WOT data from your graph, first you need to include Amps on the right Y-axis (also Temp if you are testing props and have the sensor). Then under your chart settings, set the x-axis limits so only the WOT portion of the test is shown. Now the graph should look more or less like 3 flat lines. If a large spike appears on any of those lines, limit the x-axis further until the spike is out of range (no longer visible). After you do this, the averages shown in the legend (underneath the graph) will accurately represent WOT performance (at no-load in this case).

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fishjunky

Am I correct in using the number of magnet poles? Or should I be using the 12 stator pole number?

Yes, you are correct. Use magnetic poles for calibrating RPM, not stator poles.

Cheers,
Kev

Fishjunky · Nov 09, 2009, 10:56 AM

Ok, Let's take a look at this capture from my second motor. I put 9T of 24G wire on this one.

Kev, Thanks for the advice. Attached is a graph like what you described above. I don't have the temperature probe.

I'm seeing anywhere from 1584Kv to 1614Kv depending on which numbers I grab. Is this correct? Efficiency is the next thing I'd like to figure out.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions so far.

Fishjunky · Nov 09, 2009, 04:49 PM

Here is another capture with an APC 10x5 prop on the latest re-wind.

After this WOT capture, I could smell that the motor was heating up. It's about 58 deg. F out right now. It did not burn anything up but it was hot.

How much will this change during actual flight versus static testing on the ground?

manuel v · Nov 09, 2009, 06:05 PM

Maybe your problem is a thin wire.
one stator 28x9mm is good for 14t, 22awg.
and 7-8 turn 20awg.

Manuel V.

Fishjunky · Nov 09, 2009, 06:46 PM

I'm going to check out a local place tomorrow to see if they have any good wire options. I have some 22G wire from Radio Shack but I don't have a lot of confidence in it. I don't think I could get 14t of it on this stator.

vintage1 · Nov 10, 2009, 07:40 AM

the 1100KV version of this is only safe on a 10x7 on 3s.: If you have both a higher KV and thinner wire, you are over the limits.

It OUGHT to be trying to draw 30A plus. If its not, its all down to poor efficiency and a LOT of extra heat.

You should be on I would say an 8x6 or 9x5.

Oct 28, 2009, 10:59 PM	#1
Fishjunky One flight ahead of the rain. Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Syracuse, UT Posts: 1,131	Anyone rewound a Turnigy 35-30 1700Kv? I'm curious to see if anyone has rewound one of these? I'm trying to figure out if I have to pull the stator off in order to rewind it.

Nov 05, 2009, 10:16 PM	#9
Fishjunky One flight ahead of the rain. Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Syracuse, UT Posts: 1,131	I don't really know much about how to do a proper bench test. I rewound one of the motors today with 8T of 24G wire. Lots of space left but it's the biggest wire I had on hand. Here is the Eagle Tree data with no load, not sure how to interpret it though. edit Sorry I didn't have the RPM logger calibrated correctly for this motor. The log below now reflects a 14 pole motor with a direct drive 1:1 ratio. Am I correct in using the number of magnet poles? Or should I be using the 12 stator pole number? My next one will be with 22 or 20 gauge wire. Attached Thumbnails 98.0 KB · Views: 20 Last edited by Fishjunky; Nov 06, 2009 at 07:48 AM. Reason: Incorrect data log

Nov 09, 2009, 10:56 AM	#11
Fishjunky One flight ahead of the rain. Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Syracuse, UT Posts: 1,131	Second wind 9T 24G GB newbie wire Ok, Let's take a look at this capture from my second motor. I put 9T of 24G wire on this one. Kev, Thanks for the advice. Attached is a graph like what you described above. I don't have the temperature probe. I'm seeing anywhere from 1584Kv to 1614Kv depending on which numbers I grab. Is this correct? Efficiency is the next thing I'd like to figure out. Thanks for all the help and suggestions so far. Attached Thumbnails 81.7 KB · Views: 13

Nov 09, 2009, 04:49 PM	#12
Fishjunky One flight ahead of the rain. Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Syracuse, UT Posts: 1,131	Here is another capture with an APC 10x5 prop on the latest re-wind. After this WOT capture, I could smell that the motor was heating up. It's about 58 deg. F out right now. It did not burn anything up but it was hot. How much will this change during actual flight versus static testing on the ground? Attached Thumbnails 73.7 KB · Views: 8

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
For Sale MicroDAN 2003 F3P-29T 1700Kv + Turnigy Plush 6A	msmith	Aircraft - Electric - Power Systems (FS/W)	2	Oct 17, 2009 09:15 PM
Sold TURNIGY 35-30A 1700Kv	awayne	Aircraft - Electric - Power Systems (FS/W)	3	Jul 12, 2009 06:26 PM
Found Turnigy 35-30A 1700kv Brushless Outrunner	Flying Beagle	Aircraft - Electric - Power Systems (FS/W)	0	May 23, 2009 06:38 PM
Sold Turnigy AerodriveXp SK Series 35-30 1100Kv / 345w	bwoollia	Aircraft - Electric - Power Systems (FS/W)	1	Apr 06, 2009 07:10 AM
For Sale TURNIGY AerodriveXp 1700kv/350 Watt Brushless Outrunner (Eq AXi 2808) $30 Shipped!	kctrading	Aircraft - Electric - Power Systems (FS/W)	2	Sep 25, 2008 11:02 PM

Oct 29, 2009, 12:43 AM	#2
IBCrazy Former North Coast Flyer Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Lynchburg, VA Posts: 2,018	You don't need to pull the stator, but it will help you get a better winding. Pull the bearings out of the motor and put a soldering iron in the bearing tube. this will warm up the epoxy holding the stator in place (if there even is any). Once it gets warm, drive 3mm screws through the backplate into the stator windings. You can put a piece of metal in between the screw and the stator to protect the stator insulation if you want. This will drive the stator out so you have room to work. You don't need to take the whole thing off, but just move it out an inch is plenty. -Alex

Oct 29, 2009, 01:36 AM	#3
yangster RCalldayLong Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: San Jose, California Posts: 1,328	good Luck! I couldn't get the stator off and when I did I ended up destroying the motor in the process. If you get it off, let me know how easy it was.

Oct 29, 2009, 02:53 AM	#4
manuel v Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Mexicali, Mexico Posts: 3,294	Fishjunky. Check post 10,11 and 12. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1079423 Manuel V.

Oct 30, 2009, 12:56 AM	#5
Fishjunky One flight ahead of the rain. Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Syracuse, UT Posts: 1,131	Thanks for the help all! I'll give it a shot and see how it goes. I have two possible victims, one's mine.

Nov 05, 2009, 04:24 PM	#7
Truglodite D---==-O Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Carmichael, CA Posts: 1,634	I have one of these motors too, and feel it's not airworthy with the stock windings (it is sitting in my spares box collecting dust). I haven't seen any decent rewinding results from these motors yet, and it seems like a rewind would have to be spectacular for all the labor involved. Please let us know how it turns out when your done. Cheers, Kev

Nov 09, 2009, 06:05 PM	#13
manuel v Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Mexicali, Mexico Posts: 3,294	Maybe your problem is a thin wire. one stator 28x9mm is good for 14t, 22awg. and 7-8 turn 20awg. Manuel V.

Nov 09, 2009, 06:46 PM	#14
Fishjunky One flight ahead of the rain. Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Syracuse, UT Posts: 1,131	I'm going to check out a local place tomorrow to see if they have any good wire options. I have some 22G wire from Radio Shack but I don't have a lot of confidence in it. I don't think I could get 14t of it on this stator.

Nov 10, 2009, 07:40 AM	#15
vintage1 Replikit Designer Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: East Anglia, UK Posts: 27,402	the 1100KV version of this is only safe on a 10x7 on 3s.: If you have both a higher KV and thinner wire, you are over the limits. It OUGHT to be trying to draw 30A plus. If its not, its all down to poor efficiency and a LOT of extra heat. You should be on I would say an 8x6 or 9x5.