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Old Jan 12, 2011, 10:09 AM
..teach monkeys to fly..
Marten's Avatar
Ottawa Intl, Canada
Joined Oct 2000
364 Posts
Here is a guy my daughter whipped up. Sculpy with a foil armature. 35mm film can in one of the shots for scale, probably about 1/10 scale, but I haven't measured. He's too heavy to fly, bu I intend to make a mould and put him in a Flybaby. She's working on a 1/6 Spitfire pilot for me, but busy at college so I'm going to have to be patient.

BTW He doesn't look anything like me. I'm blond and couldn't grow a beard to save my life.

Marten
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Old Jan 12, 2011, 12:34 PM
5,200 Led Lighted Bike-Bob P.
**neons**'s Avatar
USA, MA, Swansea
Joined Mar 2003
2,812 Posts
Marten,
That is a beautiful piece of work she did there. I wonder if a rough form of foam was made first of the complete bust and then covered with the aluminum foil and sculpy is the answer to get the weight manageable. Or does the person just make a ball of foil which is also light for a starter. It can only get better with each one. I'll have to look at the YouTube videos to find out more. I have not had time right now.

Warhead,
I also have a frame up resto of a 1975 Wing too. The light bike is a 1983 Aspencade. 5,200 lights, music interface, 2 computers for light functions, smoke generator, and flames. Most all is done remotely with key fobs. There are some pictures here from some time ago. The bike lights started to be built in 1993. Led's were unknown then. I have won 9 first at Americade. I wish I new a few people near me that like scratchbuilding. Hard to find anymore. It seems all Arfs now.

http://community.webshots.com/user/_...host=community
Look up Sat nights in Plymouth here. There are a few others in our group there also.
**Neons** Bob
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Old Jan 12, 2011, 11:10 PM
Zach
Illinois
Joined Feb 2004
806 Posts
Marten,
Using a foam form won't work. The foam will melt when you fire the clay in the oven.
The two main reason I use a foil foam is to conserve clay and to give me something solid at the center of the pilot to work the clay around.

There are types of light weight clay you may be able to use for creating pilots if you don't want to make molds. Crayola makes a type, I think they call it Model magic. I think there is also a type called Cloud Clay. It's about the consistency of a marshmallow. It's an air dry clay. It's not the best for capturing detail or for really small scale but if your not to picky I bet it could be made to work.

EDIT: Found it http://www.dickblick.com/products/amaco-cloud-clay/

Zach
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 10:14 PM
Always Ready!
warhead_71's Avatar
Chicago, IL
Joined Dec 2006
5,135 Posts
One more US Army pilot head so I can make a pair of buddies to fly my E-flite PT-17 and PT-19, or any other 1/9 scale early WW2 era plane. I'm using the same torso as before, just an alternate head so they don't look like identical twins. The goggles are balanced loosely on the bridge of his nose, but the fit is much better than it looks. Can't decide if I should cast them separately or glue them to his face.
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Old Jan 13, 2011, 11:45 PM
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Jeff in So Cal's Avatar
Torrance, CA
Joined Sep 2004
385 Posts
Goggles

Interesting question Warhead.

If you glue them to his head, won't you lose the eye definition behind the goggles?

What if you took the goggles and vacuum formed them using very thin clear and colorless styrene? You could then paint them and have clear lenses.

By the way, great looking pilot. Looks like someone you would hate to meet up with one on one. He has to be the instructor.

Jeff
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 09:11 AM
Always Ready!
warhead_71's Avatar
Chicago, IL
Joined Dec 2006
5,135 Posts
The problem is that the goggles are very frail... I don't think I could vaccuum form anything over them without destroying them in the process. I should not lose any detail behind the goggles -- the eyes won't get covered -- though I'd want to fillet a bit of white glue around the edges of the goggles so I can make a fairly clean silicon mold. The other pilot head has the goggles formed directly to the face... and it makes a nice mold. Yep - he definitely looks like the veteran of the two pilots... so he'll sit in back.
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 05:23 PM
Zach
Illinois
Joined Feb 2004
806 Posts
Warhead,
I've had good luck using Scupy Bake and Bend for small fragile parts. The stuff is like rubber.
http://www.sculpey.com/products/clay...flex-bake-bend

It is a little sticker than regular Sculpy but can be mixed with any other sculpy to give you the consistency you want. I have found that a clay mix that is only 25% Bake and Bend is still enough to keep the finished parts from becoming brittle after it's baked.

Did you bake the goggles on the finished head to get them to keep their shape?

Zach
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 06:18 PM
Always Ready!
warhead_71's Avatar
Chicago, IL
Joined Dec 2006
5,135 Posts
Cool. I've never seen that at the art store. Yes, I baked the goggles. Usually I bake the head for about 5 minutes so it's fairly hard but not fully cured, then I add the thin details and bake it all again so it fully cures.
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 08:52 PM
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Jeff in So Cal's Avatar
Torrance, CA
Joined Sep 2004
385 Posts
Goggles

Warhead,

Obviously the goggles can't be vacuum formed as they are. However, if they were mounted on a carved block or some other base you might have success. The other option would be to replicate the goggles by carving them into a larger piece and then vacuum form them.

Either way, I will play with this as it might create a way to get integral clear lenses on a pair of goggles that can be installed after the eyes and face have been painted.

Jeff
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Old Jan 14, 2011, 10:46 PM
Zach
Illinois
Joined Feb 2004
806 Posts
I'll have to post some pictures of the goggles I cast separately. It was a pain but I think it was worth it. It definitely makes painting easier.

When I cast my goggles I use a syringe to do a poor man's injection molding job.
I have a 1/32" "blow hole" in the mold to allow for air to escape while the the plastic is being injected. It also gives the excess plastic a place to go and keeps it from blowing the mold apart. When plastic comes out the hole I know the mold is full.
Your guy is a larger scale though so you may be able to just pour it like normal.

Zach
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Old Jan 15, 2011, 08:42 PM
5,200 Led Lighted Bike-Bob P.
**neons**'s Avatar
USA, MA, Swansea
Joined Mar 2003
2,812 Posts
Warhead,
I used your idea for the straps to help hold my pilot in place with a scale look. I am very pleased with them. I found that after the shoe string is cut there is a nylon string core in it. Just pull it out and the outer core on the string lays nice and flat. Easy to work with also. It took a waterbase paint thinned 50% to paint it and it is very pliable. I posted my new cockpit panels in Hans Joachims thread here. No pilot mounted yet. The parts have to be set in place first.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=960
Thanks again,
**Neons** Bob
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Old Jan 16, 2011, 12:15 PM
Always Ready!
warhead_71's Avatar
Chicago, IL
Joined Dec 2006
5,135 Posts
Looks great Bob. I hope your shoes don't fall off!
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Old Jan 16, 2011, 06:28 PM
5,200 Led Lighted Bike-Bob P.
**neons**'s Avatar
USA, MA, Swansea
Joined Mar 2003
2,812 Posts
Thanks Warhead,
Now if I can fit one of your pilots in there I would strap him in so he will not come loose when I bounce land the plane. I just put up another pic with all the parts fitted in the cockpit. I hope I can get it moving along now. The most time consuming part is almost done.
**Neons** Bob
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Old Jan 20, 2011, 11:31 PM
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Joespeeder's Avatar
Davison, MI
Joined Sep 2007
1,205 Posts
Hey warhead_71,

Your work is just awesome!! Forgive a question you may have answered but I couldn't find it if you did.

Are you making molds to sell busts of the various pilots you've created?

You're faster than I can keep up with what scales and types your creating. Keep up the the great work.

Joe
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