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Old Apr 07, 2012, 08:08 PM
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One other thing to bear in mind. Originally, Cox Hobbies recommended flying weight was in the 5oz ( 142g ) range.

Here's a review from that other RC website :

http://www.google.com/url?q=http://w...febnmk3siVA65g

g
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Old Apr 08, 2012, 04:41 PM
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Belgium, Flanders, Antwerp
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Agreed, but Im of the school of thought that an airframe should be as light as possible and dictated by how strong the structure needs to be. I would much rather decide I wanted a bit more weight to handle wind I can add a bigger pack or bigger motor instead of always hauling around needless airframe structure. Just my preference.

Mendo
Looks like we went to the same school
Also, where I live the wind really settles down in the summer after 7-8 at night, so the lighter the airplanes the nicer they fly.
And for those windy days I still have my parkflyers in the 250-300 grams range.

Thanks for your replies everybody.
I know now that I can easily use three servo's instead of two, and that I can paint my FW190's rudder yellow without fear of CoG problems
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Old Apr 08, 2012, 09:25 PM
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Grand Blanc, MI
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Originally Posted by giuseppi View Post
One other thing to bear in mind. Originally, Cox Hobbies recommended flying weight was in the 5oz ( 142g ) range.

Here's a review from that other RC website :

http://www.google.com/url?q=http://w...febnmk3siVA65g

g
That's what I've always kept in mind when building mine. Weight is not so much an issue when the CG is right and you have more than a 1:1 thrust ratio.
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Old Apr 09, 2012, 04:31 AM
Watt Waster
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What to do when they are rare and ...

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Originally Posted by will3kgt View Post
That's what I've always kept in mind when building mine. Weight is not so much an issue when the CG is right and you have more than a 1:1 thrust ratio.
With my nerves and age, I tend to go for very lightweight and not so fast. Since the kits are getting hard to find and I still haven't put mine together, I have been kicking around the idea of making wooden plugs for the parts and heat forming shells to glue together in the same manner as scale paper airplanes, but of 1/4" foam. I am also thinking scaling up around 50%. Not hard to do, but then I suppose the larger copies won't be Gravity Hobby, or COX Warbird kits anymore.
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Old Apr 09, 2012, 11:45 AM
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Sorry guys, didn't mean to start a which is better- light or heavy discussion. I just personally do not like light little micros and such. Even when the winds have calmed down, they just don't do it for me and for my liking, these planes carry the extra weight VERY well.

Heck, I'm pretty sure I've mentioned it before, but I had one set up with a Park 370 5400kv inrunner on a 2S 450 lipo and it screamed along nicely! Too bad the wings couldn't handle it though, folded like a cheap suite .
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Old Apr 09, 2012, 11:56 AM
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I think I can help on this topic. It's reasonable to assume that because of my Atomic Warbird series, I've probably built more of the cox models than most everybody. That being said, each airframe had it's own unique tendencies and charactristics. That made each model best suited for a specific purpose. For example, if one wanted to build an indoor floater, the BF109 could be built very light and could float along with almost no throttle. The P-47 was best flown fast because of a rather small rudder. The F4U was a favorite of mine, it seemed to be great at almost everything. Some of mine had such brutal power that they came apart in mid air. You aren't going to fit that kind of power in a BF109. You need the FW190, Zero, P-47 or F4U and weight goes up.

Weight, wing loading, and intended useage all play a part in the final outcome. The Bf109 for indoor can float along but if you dork it, the forward fuse is smashed. Also, you won't be flying in 10 mph winds either. The F4U with monster power can be 180+ grams with carbon and glass reinforcment.... unlimited and brisk vertical, will slow down reasonably well and typically powers though 10 mph wind like a charm. Decide what kind of performance envelope you desire, pick the proper model and go for it. They are a blast.
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Old Apr 09, 2012, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe 1320 View Post
I think I can help on this topic. It's reasonable to assume that because of my Atomic Warbird series, I've probably built more of the cox models than most everybody. That being said, each airframe had it's own unique tendencies and charactristics. That made each model best suited for a specific purpose. For example, if one wanted to build an indoor floater, the BF109 could be built very light and could float along with almost no throttle. The P-47 was best flown fast because of a rather small rudder. The F4U was a favorite of mine, it seemed to be great at almost everything. Some of mine had such brutal power that they came apart in mid air. You aren't going to fit that kind of power in a BF109. You need the FW190, Zero, P-47 or F4U and weight goes up.

Weight, wing loading, and intended useage all play a part in the final outcome. The Bf109 for indoor can float along but if you dork it, the forward fuse is smashed. Also, you won't be flying in 10 mph winds either. The F4U with monster power can be 180+ grams with carbon and glass reinforcment.... unlimited and brisk vertical, will slow down reasonably well and typically powers though 10 mph wind like a charm. Decide what kind of performance envelope you desire, pick the proper model and go for it. They are a blast.
Joe, as you can probably sum up in 5 minutes what it would take me all day to read through and then sift throught that a bit so I thought I would ask you. Here goes, What in your opinion is the ideal fw190 setup ( 4 channel ) for outdoor and pretty light wind on occasion, say 5-10 mph max, as well as what has had the best results when it comes to modding the 190's wing for ailerons and less dihedral? I seem to remember a long while back that the scale ailerons when cut loose werent effective at all, but then again I cant remember if the fella cut the wing and got rid of alot of the dihedral or not. I was also planning on chucking the plastic spar when I did the wing and replacing it with some carbon fiber. Anyway, if you dont mind sharing your ideal 190 setup I would love to hear what motor/prop/esc as well as servos and the auw, along with some firsthand experience with the wing, I guess since I cant buy these for $20 a pop like I figgured I could for quite some time longer I dont really want to trash the wing.

Thanks,
Mendo
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Old Apr 10, 2012, 02:37 AM
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the ideal fw190 setup ( 4 channel ) for outdoor and pretty light wind on occasion, say 5-10 mph max, as well as what has had the best results when it comes to modding the 190's wing for ailerons and less dihedral
Oh snap, someone just popped my ultimate question
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Old Apr 10, 2012, 09:09 PM
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What in your opinion is the ideal fw190 setup ( 4 channel ) for outdoor and pretty light wind on occasion, say 5-10 mph max, as well as what has had the best results when it comes to modding the 190's wing for ailerons and less dihedral?
I found the ideal setup to be a 24g outrunner, aka the blue wonder 1300 kV outrunner, 10A esc, and either 3s 300 mah 20C minimum, or 4s 450mah 25C.
The true beauty of this setup is that you can run various size props and different voltage lipos for various effects. For a brilliant slow to medium speeds and some 3d, go with 3S 300 25C, a gws 6x3x3 three blade prop and the plane will go wherever you point it..... staight up if that's what you prefer and it just goes. If you want to go insanely fast, use two 2s 450 mAh 25C lipos in series for 4s voltage and run a 6x4 prop. Mine was faster than most EDF jets. It's all about prop selection, and lipo selection.

Here's a video of a 3s setup using a 3s 300 mAh 20C lipo, 6x5.5 apc prop.

The first 1:30 are just some warm up manouvers at light throttle. At 1:30, the slow flight to vertical pulls are demonstrated. Basically, I slow to a crawl...... pull the nose up and goose the throttle for a few seconds. Speedier runs start warming up after 3:00 once the lipo has drained down some . LOL.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=850133


As far as ailerons, I'm not fully convinced that ailerons are the best setup on these planes. The wing has dihedral which is a bear to remove, the wing is an undercamber design and ailerons on that kind of wing produce some quirky handling. After a while, I stopped offering aileron conversions on my atomic warbirds.

here is a video of an Atomic Zero doing decent looking rolls with a rudder and elevator only. The rolls are at 1:45 and 3:18 Go figure......

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=850128

If you learn how to fly a rudder and elevator only and fly these according to those parameters, they fly brilliant. here's a typical build thread for a Zero or FW190.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=762800
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Old Apr 11, 2012, 02:46 PM
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Joe, thanks a ton for the info and links sir! I think this has answered pretty much all my questions and confirmed most of my expectations. That said, I have a nib fw190 looking for a new home, the shipping cost CONUS should be somewhere between $6-$10, so make me an offer if you are interested, I would prefer if pre pm you would note in this thread that you have a message heading my way, just for the simple reason that my pm limit is often near max despite getting a good percentage of it cleared almost daily.

Thanks folks,

Mendo
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 06:49 PM
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Some friends of mine got two Zeros for $40 @ the Toledo show.
I was inspired to take mine back out for a 12 minute flight.
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 06:55 PM
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Some friends of mine got two Zeros for $40 @ the Toledo show.
I was inspired to take mine back out for a 12 minute flight.
What a steal for a nice kit. Flew mine just the other morning, love the zero.
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 07:01 PM
Row 0, Seat A
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Savannah, GA
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What a steal for a nice kit. Flew mine just the other morning, love the zero.
I still have a Zero in the box. It will be my last Cox build after my FW-190 dies a glorious death.

Ted
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 07:13 PM
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I still have a Zero in the box. It will be my last Cox build after my FW-190 dies a glorious death.

Ted
I've stil got 3 Zeros NIB and 3 FW190s. Sad that there is no supply of these.
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 07:44 PM
Row 0, Seat A
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I've stil got 3 Zeros NIB and 3 FW190s. Sad that there is no supply of these.
Joe,

The Cox series was a fun go, but EPS models have thankfully run their course. It's just too bad that someone hasn't done similar sized models in EPO. The JPower stuff being the exception.

Ted
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