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Old Mar 12, 2011, 06:00 PM
USAF Retired - 1968-1988
Jake8131's Avatar
United States, IL, Mascoutah
Joined Dec 2010
3,367 Posts
Blades

Any LHS that sells the Force Helis (the mcx's that have the lasers) should stock them. Also Horizon Hobby. FCE-2020, FCE2021.
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Old Mar 12, 2011, 07:03 PM
WHAT THE...
barmonkey's Avatar
Evansville, Indiana
Joined Jan 2005
1,576 Posts
So those blades are just a bit wider?
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Old Mar 12, 2011, 09:01 PM
USAF Retired - 1968-1988
Jake8131's Avatar
United States, IL, Mascoutah
Joined Dec 2010
3,367 Posts
I think they are the same size..they look the same but they don't seem so flimsy.
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Old Mar 13, 2011, 12:52 AM
Master Of My Universe
scotsoft's Avatar
Newcastle, UK
Joined Jul 2010
2,709 Posts
Are the blades on the Force helis not the same as the mCX2?
I thought the Force helis were the mCX2 in a different fuselage?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake8131 View Post
I think they are the same size..they look the same but they don't seem so flimsy.
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Old Mar 13, 2011, 04:44 AM
USAF Retired - 1968-1988
Jake8131's Avatar
United States, IL, Mascoutah
Joined Dec 2010
3,367 Posts
Frame is different...canopy rods are in different locations..
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Old Mar 14, 2011, 10:15 PM
USAF Retired - 1968-1988
Jake8131's Avatar
United States, IL, Mascoutah
Joined Dec 2010
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More flying!

Blade Tandem Rescue Fun 4.avi (3 min 0 sec)
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Old Apr 07, 2011, 09:27 PM
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USA, WA, Kennewick
Joined Nov 2005
502 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Snedegar View Post
After more than 20 flights with the mCX Tandem, I think I have my control settings pretty well dialed in and am having a great time flying the "Phrog". Since others have posted requests for suggested DX7 settings, here are mine. The mixes do a pretty good job of resolving the coupling issues on this heli. Note that each model will almost certainly have some variation in optimal mixing values - these were determined for mine through "fly-and-error".

My DX7 setup:

Model Type: Heli

Swash Type: 1 Servo

Endpoints:
Ail: +/-100 (Normal)
Elev: +/-150 (Faster FF)
Rud: +/-150 (Faster rotation)
Thro: +/-100 (Normal)
Gear: +/- 150% (this is channel 5, which is supposed to control onboard high/low rates in the 5-in-1 board. I fly with my Gear switch in "0" or forward position for high rate.)
Servo Direction: All Normal

Subtrim:
Elev: 8 clicks up elev (to stop forward drift in hover - likely specific to my own model)
All others none
Rates:
Ail: Expo -30% (good stick response in right/left translational flight)
Elev: Linear
Rud: Expo -20% (together with the 150% Rudder EP settings, this makes for very good left and right yaw response)
Throttle Curve (Norm):
Expo Smoothing: On
Point-L: 0% (These settings give an "S" shaped throttle curve with finer control granularity in the mid-range hover power area)
Point-1: 35%
Point-2: 50%
Point-3: 65%
Point-H: 100%
Mixes:
Ail -> Elev:
-40%
-40%
Mitigates coupling between Aileron (right-left cyclic) and Elevator (foreword-rearward flight).

Ail -> Rud:
-20%
+20%
Counteracts tendency to yaw left on Aileron (right-left cyclic) input.

Rud -> Thro:
-9%
+17%
Counteracts tendency to ascend during right/left pirouetting.
Regards,
Bob
I put Bob's setup into my DX8.. Flies great except I went with -25 -25 on the Ail>Elv mix

SPM file for DX8
http://www.pontiacs.org/pics/project...m/01MCXTAN.SPM
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Old Apr 18, 2011, 11:32 AM
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Canada, AB, Lac La Biche
Joined Aug 2010
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I just bought one of these, as my very first heli, I want to build a mutli-coptor of some sort for AP/AV and figured I better get some experience with something that hovers, I had an $80 gift coupon for the LHS (3 hours away) and decided on this, since they were going for $89.

Anyway, what a blast! I'm not skilled enough with my Night Vapor to fly it inside much, but this little heli is great! Took me a few minutes to figure out how to get her off the ground, I kept tipping it over trying to gradually throttle it up. Finally I got brave and just punched it and up she went! Within a couple of minutes I had it figured out good enough that I could keep it away from the walls and other objects and put her down on the wheels ok.

I skimmed through this thread, but I don't have time to read every post right now, so what I was wondering is:

what spares should I have on hand?

to use different (cheaper) batteries, are there none that fit like the OE one?

does the blade mod from the different model change flight characteristics, or are they just more sturdy?

thanks!
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Old Apr 18, 2011, 01:38 PM
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mikekomm's Avatar
Los Angeles
Joined Aug 2002
576 Posts
Our 270mAh batteries will be back in stock later this week.

http://www.commonsenserc.com/advance...ds=270&x=0&y=0
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Old Apr 18, 2011, 02:02 PM
USAF Retired - 1968-1988
Jake8131's Avatar
United States, IL, Mascoutah
Joined Dec 2010
3,367 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenstr View Post
I just bought one of these, as my very first heli, I want to build a mutli-coptor of some sort for AP/AV and figured I better get some experience with something that hovers, I had an $80 gift coupon for the LHS (3 hours away) and decided on this, since they were going for $89.

Anyway, what a blast! I'm not skilled enough with my Night Vapor to fly it inside much, but this little heli is great! Took me a few minutes to figure out how to get her off the ground, I kept tipping it over trying to gradually throttle it up. Finally I got brave and just punched it and up she went! Within a couple of minutes I had it figured out good enough that I could keep it away from the walls and other objects and put her down on the wheels ok.

I skimmed through this thread, but I don't have time to read every post right now, so what I was wondering is:

what spares should I have on hand?

to use different (cheaper) batteries, are there none that fit like the OE one?

does the blade mod from the different model change flight characteristics, or are they just more sturdy?

thanks!
I have had mine for a while and haven't broken anything. The only thing I could think of is some new blades and two flybars and some links. Haven't seen those batteries yet.
This things is awesome at night outside with no wind in the dark. The onboard lights look cool in the dark.
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Old Apr 18, 2011, 05:06 PM
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Canada, AB, Lac La Biche
Joined Aug 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake8131 View Post
I have had mine for a while and haven't broken anything. The only thing I could think of is some new blades and two flybars and some links. Haven't seen those batteries yet.
This things is awesome at night outside with no wind in the dark. The onboard lights look cool in the dark.
Yeah the lights are one of the main reasons I went with this, my NV is a blast at night outside, as I expect this one will be. I'm thinking the heli won't be quite as drastically effected by slight breezes as the night vapor, which reacts badly to the slightest whisper of a breeze, but I can see that calm conditions will be definitely needed before venturing outside with it.
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Old Apr 18, 2011, 05:55 PM
IAMCANADIAN
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Canada, BC, Squamish
Joined Jul 2002
4,744 Posts
I bought one last summer and it's still fun. I've only replace the inner shafts (they bend if you hit hard)

It will not handle even a slight breeze. Outdoors you have to watch out for tiny updrafts lifting it away. Esp if you're near the end of the flight and you canNOT descend fast enough to get it back before the battery dies. If try to come down too fast the blades stall and it flutters down like a maple leaf in a fall gale!

The e-flight batteries for it seem to be I've finally purchase some zippy 350s bare cells, cabbaged plugs from the e-flight 250s and soldered/glued them on. The CG moved back a bit but I think I can move the rear gear forward to compensate..
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Old Apr 18, 2011, 06:53 PM
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Canada, AB, Lac La Biche
Joined Aug 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grejen View Post
I bought one last summer and it's still fun. I've only replace the inner shafts (they bend if you hit hard)

It will not handle even a slight breeze. Outdoors you have to watch out for tiny updrafts lifting it away. Esp if you're near the end of the flight and you canNOT descend fast enough to get it back before the battery dies. If try to come down too fast the blades stall and it flutters down like a maple leaf in a fall gale!

The e-flight batteries for it seem to be I've finally purchase some zippy 350s bare cells, cabbaged plugs from the e-flight 250s and soldered/glued them on. The CG moved back a bit but I think I can move the rear gear forward to compensate..
I saw the zippys and was wondering how one would mount them, do you have pic's of your modded batteries?

thanks..

ps. Go Canucks!
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Old Apr 21, 2011, 02:40 PM
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Canada, BC, Squamish
Joined Jul 2002
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Sorry didn't take any pics and it went a bit different each of the 2 times I did it.

Essentially you have to carefully cut the black plastic guide/clip thing away from the donor battery. If your carefull enough you obtain the face where the plug exits and the side with the raised fins. The flat side seems to be really well fixed to the batteries so forget it. I just sliced through the corners of the edges, slid the blade under the finned side of the clip to cut the silicon, and rotated the fined side of the clip away so it broke away from the flat side near the face without pulling the wires too much.

Inside there will be a lot of white silicon, a small plastic separator block keeping the battery tabs well apart, the plug itself locked into the face, and two short wires from the plug, soldered to the battery. Cut, peel the silicon away and use a small/jewler tip on your soldering iron to desolder the wires. There're only just long enough so don't cut them. Take care not to pull them out of the plug.

Step three is to solder the wires to the new battery. Be sure the polarity is right. I used silicon to adhere the clip portion, separator block, and plug into place. Hotmelt glue would probably work much better. Test the polarity/plug connection with a meter before plugging it into the heli or a charger.
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Old May 03, 2011, 05:02 PM
Old
Joined Nov 2010
37 Posts
I have a bit of a brain teaser for the tuners.

There is some coupling of controls in the tandem. I'm a bit fussy about making any mechanical trim adjustments I can so the TX trims are as close to center as possible.

Here is what the Heli does:
Right gives Right + Back
Left gives Left + Foreward

Right Piros = gain in altitude
Left Piros = loss of altitude

Very slight Left drift

The obvious tweak of making sure the shafts are in line cures the Piros one way and not the other. Landing and reseting the gyro after 30-45 second of warm up seems to stop chasing the yaw drift.

The only mechanical adjustment is the roll (Left -Right) and since they use rotor speed for Fore and Aft flight it seems to make no sense at first. However, the fore and aft rotors not being exactly the same in roll can cause the control coupling. It does not take much left or right imbalance to cause a mechanical yaw problem and might explain the altitude change when doing Piros also.

Anyone thought this out? I think I've read every post in the tandem threads and I haven't seen a tuning/troubleshooting guide. Is there any interest?

R
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