|Oct 21, 2009, 12:29 AM|
Walkera 5#10 2S BL Conversion Kit from wowhobbies
This is a review of the 2S brushless motor upgrade kit for Walkera 5#10 from wowhobbies:
Before I begin a little background. Way back at the beginning of this year I bought a 5#10 and fell in love with the smoothness and precise control and it was my favorite indoor flyer. It wasn't really the best at flying outdoors stock, but I loved flying it so much I burned through many brushed motors. So this summer I did a 2S upgrade on my 5#10 using the hobbycity BL kit for Esky Lama/Eflight CX heli's. Since that kit is made for a 7.4V setup and the 5#10 is only 3.7V, I had to upgrade the RX 4n1 unit to a 7.4V one from a 5#4Q3. The results were pretty good, but did leave some room for improvements. Here is a link on my 5#10 BL build:
The WOW kit is great becasue they use 2 higher qaulity ESC's, and one has a BEC that provides a lowered 5V to the stock RX, so you don't need to replace it to go 2S.
Recently I was approached by another RCG member who wanted me to perform a BL upgrade on his 5#10 heli. He had already purchased the WOW kit so he sent me that kit, one of WOW's 2S CX sized batteries and his heli to perform the work needed. The instructions from WOW were detailed and that is good but could be slightly confusing for a noob.
Summary of the work:
Removed stock motors. Using pinion puller I removed the pinions and then used a vise to press them onto the C10 motors and mounted them in heli.
One of the major issues with the kit they way it comes is that all 4 electronic pieces are bundled together in heatshrink and it is rather large. If you look at the picture from the WOW website (attached below) they have placed the bundle on the side of the servo on one side. This is a deceiving angle, because if you were to look at it head on you would see the ESC's jutting out over an inch beside one servo. Not exactly attractive, plus in that config, you would not be able to re-use the stock canopy. There placement is done for center of gravity reasons because when you use the newly created battery cage using the included spacers for a 2S battery, the COG of the heli becomes super front heavy, even when the battery is pushed completely back. I think there is a better way to balance COG and keep stock looks.
I cut the clear shrink wrap from kit. After separating the 2 ESC's and 2 BL converters, I individually heat shrinked the 2 ESC's. I placed the 2 ESC's in the old stock battery tray and using gyro tape stuck the 2 BL converters to the side of the RX.
Now to get the COG adjustable to where we need it the battery has to be lower so that it can be pushed back past the rear motor, so I used a CX battery cage and skids from flyrcrivesud.com.
The battery cage and skids required some fabrication. I drilled 4 new screw holes in the flyrcrivesud cage after trimming unused plastic with dremel. I then used 2 old stock 5#10 skids struts and cut them off flat. Then I drilled screw holes in the stock skids plates. The battery cage, now backwards, is screwed up into the stock skid plates which are attached as normal. You may choose to cut the stock skids plates off to be more flush with the battery cage, but it is personal preference.
Connecting all the wiring is easy just follow the instructions for what ESC and motor combo gets plugged into where on the RX. You could shorten some of the extra wires if you you wanted, but weight is not an issue with this heli. With the battery RTF it weighs in at 199g, which is really good for a 2S co-ax. My BL 5#10 was over 15grams heavier I think.
Due to the light weight this thing performs like a rocket.
Heli flies great and it has lots of power. I think the tail holds very well with this setup. The tail tends to hold during hard throttle pumps where on mine using the 2403 7.4V RX and HC kit the tail did not perform nearly as well. I only flew his heli twice after th upgrade because it was not mine, but I know I could fly the hell out of that one if I really opened it up, and have better control and power than any of my other co-ax's (CX3, CX, 2 5#43Q's, Lama V4). I was very impressed with the flight performance. I didn't have much time with the heli so I couldn't make a video, perhaps the owner may be able to post one. I have since moved on to flying CP heli's and spending most of time with my 4G6's, but I found this 5#10 an enjoyable project.
A few notes to keep in mind:
The new motors have crazy power and mad torque so it tends to wear the gears a bit more than the stock motors. Be prepared to replace the gears more than with the brushed motors.
The 10A ESC in the WOW kit plays a long and loud song when binding. This feature could be disabled, but you would need to temporarily disconnect the power to the smaller ESC so that you can enter programming mode on just the larger one to set it to beeps only. Lastly you would need the programming codes, which WOW should be able to provide or at least point us to the manufacturer of the ESC to get the programming instructions.
It's late now and I might be forgetting stuff so I may have some follow up posts with additional information.
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|Nov 24, 2009, 09:20 PM|
So with this conversion you used the standard 5#10 RX (RX2401)?
I'm trying to come up with a convenient way of eliminating the brushed controller in my Lama 400D and happen to have a spare 53Q3 and 5#10 RX. With the tail hold, do you believe it was the RX or just the poorer resolution on the HK speed controllers?
|Nov 25, 2009, 08:50 AM|
Now I must admit I am slightly confiused as I am not sure how you will use this info in relation to a 400D. That uses 3S voltage and 370 brushed motors, so you won't be able to use that BL kit from WOW becasue the C10 motors are not the right choice for your heli. They are designed to replace 180 sized brushed motors running at 2S (7.4V). You would need the larger BL kit for a 400D like this:
Hope that helps.
|Nov 25, 2009, 06:21 PM|
Ryan, nah I'm already running it brushless with Turnigy 25A BSC (with BEC) and the AEO converter modules. It flies very nicely however I left the brushed speed controller it originally came with in place so it's one extra piece of electronics thats not really required if I change to the 5#10 or 53Q3 RX. I was just curious if you felt one RX had better tail hold than the other.
PS and more on topic, I run the AEO kit from chinesejade in my 5#10 and love it.
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