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Old Nov 28, 2009, 09:26 AM
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Riverside, California, United States
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The Hitec servo arms inner most hole is too far out to use for the linkage. The plastic ball link will rub on the inside of the servo cover. Im considering making slight bulges in the covers but I reall like that they are smooth and this seems doable for now. For the flaps I drill and tap a 2mm thread as close to the inner hole on the arm as I can get without compromising the strength of the arm. Once the hole is drilled there is about a 1mm gap between the hole I drilled and the existing inner hole on the arm. Then I grind the rest of the arm off. For the ailerons, I drill a hole 1.5mm outside the hub of the servo arm. Once the hole is drilled there is about a 1mm gap between the hole and the hub.
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Old Nov 28, 2009, 09:31 AM
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Here is a flap horn that is trimmed before the ball is installed. You can see how close I drilled to the factory inner hole.
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Old Nov 28, 2009, 09:36 AM
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Because these servos are so tight and strong, locking out the linkage is not necessary. I think theres a chance that if I flip the flap servos around so the output shaft is forward the inner hole can be used and 90 degree flaps can be had without a programmer. The wing is thicker in that spot. I will give it a try. It will require a longer control rod. I will post the results tonight.
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Old Nov 28, 2009, 09:43 AM
Mach 0.261 ... Hiccup of Wiggy
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Wiggy Poo, England!
Joined Mar 2006
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Hey Joe, looking goooood !
Is 90 degrees of flap desirable on this ship?
Just wondering...
Regards
George
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Old Nov 28, 2009, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geo420 View Post
Hey Joe, looking goooood !
Is 90 degrees of flap desirable on this ship?
Just wondering...
Regards
George
No, they slow down just fine with the amount you can get here. If you flying in 20mph or less more would help but would make too much difference. I like to ba able to kill all groundspeed whenever possible. When the wind drops below 20 the flaps slow it down completly but backing up is difficult. Some of our landing areas are safer to back into than fly down wind of them.
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Old Nov 28, 2009, 12:16 PM
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Leicestershire
Joined Sep 2006
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I think we're good with the set-up as shown with our slightly less rocky sites. I'd rather have the supershort servo horn and the short linkage rather than 90 degree flaps It seems to land very stable with the amount of flap used in your vids Joe - I'd wonder if it would be as sweet with 90 degrees?

Z
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Old Nov 28, 2009, 02:32 PM
DS= -$ & :-)
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Byron Bay, Australia
Joined Feb 2006
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For me 90 would be better. Most of my LZ's suck!!

Excellent thread Joe. I really appreciate the extra details.

Eric
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Old Nov 28, 2009, 11:12 PM
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So, I went into the shop this morning and all of the epoxy was dry for the servos. I taped the covers on and used gorilla CA to glue on the top fairings. I wrapped a piece of tape around the harness and glued it into the hole. Wing is finished. Next is to install the gear install kit. The CG for the D80 is 3" back from the LE at the fuse sides. I made some lines and lined up the mill mark in the plate. Time to glue it in place.
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Old Nov 28, 2009, 11:16 PM
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I start with gorilla CA and I have the entire assemble bolted together. I push the plates down into the fuse bottom and glue just the sides of the ballsat tray on each side. Then use kicker to git er dun.
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Old Nov 28, 2009, 11:20 PM
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Next I take a piece of 2oz. glass and cut it to shape so thet there are holes for the threaded inserts and about a 1/2" overlap on the sides. I keep the front short so I dont get glue too far forward and screw up my other piece. I spray the glass with 3M77 and place it in the fuse. Then smooth it out and press it into place. Time to glue!
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Old Nov 28, 2009, 11:23 PM
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You guessed it! More CA. But thin this time. I use a small tip on the bottle and go around the perimeter of the glass. The thin CA will wick into the cloth. You can work your way toward the center until the fabric is fully saturated. Use a rubber glove and your fingertip to smooth out the glue and spread it evenly. Then a light mist of kicker. Not too much or it will be ugly.
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Old Nov 28, 2009, 11:32 PM
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Now it is time to get your receiver and battery. I tape them to the front plate temporarily and balance the model. Once I have it cg'd I take 3oz. of shot out of the bag and mix up 3oz. of epoxy in a cup. I used 5min for this.
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Old Nov 28, 2009, 11:44 PM
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The front of the plate needs a release applied. You can use tape, vaseline, wax, pva, etc. I used wax. I warm up the epoxy so it's nice and thin and mix up the 3oz. in a big plastic cup. Once mixed I pour in the lead shot and mix it up. Then transfer it into a smaller cup that I can use to pour it into the fuse. One thing that always helps when doing this is to keep a heat gun handy. Today was a good example. I poured the epoxy/shot mix but didnt get the right angle and got it all over the inside of the fuse. Once the mix hits the fuse it cools and the lead shot just sticks there. Grab the heat gun and point it inside the nose and once it warms up in there all of the lead shot will drop down into the pool of resin. This all needs to take place in about 3 mins. I was by myself today so I could photo every step. Here are a few pics.
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Old Nov 28, 2009, 11:50 PM
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After about 30 mins I pull out the plate and use a heat gun to heat up the messy epoxy I got all over it. Once warm I scraped it all off with a razor blade. Now it's time to secure the gear to the plate.
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Old Nov 28, 2009, 11:57 PM
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Using Double sided tape I tape the receiver, battery, and switch into place and recheck the CG. I needed to add 4oz so I taped it to the front of the plate. I could move the battery forward to help but I dont care about a couple extra ounces.
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