'Flew very well in the bumpy air and at only 184 max.'

Now thats nice to hear. She'll go well at under 200. Yahoo!

Back on track! I have just about put everything together and the models are going together easily. Let's start first with the kits available. I have already shared pricing but I want to go over some details and also share the new Legerton inspired gear/ballsat kit available. So let's begin. Here is the standard Hardware kit. When using Ball links they put about a 5mm offset on your linkage. Meaning your link is 5MM outside of your servo arm as opposed to using a clevis on the servo end where the rod is inline with the servo arm. The model has been designed with the offset in mind and all the recesses for the servos and through holes and fairing locations have been set according to this offset. Using clevises on the servo end might not work as the servo case may not end up in the proper location. It could have a tendency to ride up on the balsa core in the wing and wont sit flat. Hope all that makes sense. Basically, use ball links on this model and you wont have any problems fitting your standard sized servos.

Here is the servo kit. To be clear, the blue aluminum servo arms come with the servos. If you decide to purchase the servo kit from me I will cut them down and tap them in the correct locations for your flap and aileron arms. I will also grind down the gold arm to the correct length. All you will have to do is install the balls that come with the hardware kit. I will be providing 4 2mm nuts to increase the offset of the rods in the wing so they dont rub on the output shaft screw. You will be able to see the nuts installed in a few of the pictures I will post shortly.

Here is the servo cover kit that comes with the model. It also includes a tailcone, top drive fairings, three bolts for the tailgroup, a wing bolt and allen wrench.

Here is the battery/receiver/ballast kit. This should hold about three pounds of lead and will securely hold your battery and receiver up front without having to stuff the nose full of foam. These are priced at $30

Take a counterbore tool and put a relief in the back of the 6" plate. This will allow the blind nuts to sit flat on the back. The top is the side that has the line milled in it. That will be lined up with the CG so keep it up.

Once the blind nuts are nice and flat I glue them in place with thin CA.

I milled a line in the small plate to help align the 10" plate to it. I use CA to glue the small square plate to the 10" plate using the line as the center.

Next I grind down the two forward blind nuts so they do not stick up past the surface of the small plate when it is in place.

A nice fit

Then I put the screws in and grind them flush on the bottom. I will try to find shorter screws for the kits. Screw in the threaded rod and the thumb screws can be tightened all the way down if you are not using ballast and they will be there when you need them. I set this assembly aside for later.

I use a diamond cutter and cut the tabs holding the horns in place. I put the tabs on flat areas so they could be sanded off easily. Be careful not to sand too much on the bottom of the horns as it will throw off the geometry of the linkage. Save the scrap as you might want to use a piece of it to secure the elevator servo in the fuse. I will cover that in a moment.

Take your airtronics servo and aluminum arm. Cut the aluminum arm leaving only the closest hole and install one of the balls in the arm and use locktite to keep it from ever coming loose. Next center your servo and place the arm on it like shown. Then get the long presoldered rod and screw a plastic ball link to it and your ready to install the servo after you plug in the wire extension and heat shrink it. I didnt take pics of the elevator horn install but notice that it is centered on the fuse and also centered front to back on the control surface. I use gorilla CA to glue in my horns on this model.

One more thing I would like to mention is that it is very important to get all the way down to the opposite skin when prepping for a horn install. There are balsa cores in the control surfaces on this model. It can be deceiving when you hit the balsa as it seems like your all the way down but the balsa needs to be removed as well so your down to the kevlar hinge or carbon when gluing in horns. The fairings on the top of the wing wont fit over the horns and the geometry will also be off if these are not installed precisely.

I solder the clevis to the horn and place the servo in the subfin. Snap the plactis link to the servo arm and slide the servo down so that the pushrod is square with the servo and look into the rear of the fuse to be sure that your ball link will not be rubbing on anything. Once in place I use CA to glue this servo in. If you grab the elevator and check for slop you will see that with a bit of force you can get the servo to move around as the surface that it's glued to is flexing. I take a piece of the G10 plate and glue it across the servo and glue it to the other side of the fuse. This makes the whole assembly very stiff and helps secure the servo better. Not the prettiest but very solid.