Espritmodel.com Telemetry Radio
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Old Oct 22, 2009, 10:53 AM
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One note, when cutting the slots for the control horns on all surfaces, it is very important that you remove all material down to the carbon skin at the bottom of the wing. These control surfaces have a balsa core that needs to be removed to ensure proper bonding of the horn as well as to keep the linkage geometry as it was designed. I use care not to go too deep and out the bottom of the wing. It's easy to do if your not careful. I place my fingertip under the cutout area and can usually feel a bit of heat or excess vibration on my fingertip just as Im about to cut through. This helps me prevent messing it up. It also helps to use lots of light down in the slot and constant removal of carbon dust as your going so you can see what's going on. I just blow it away every few seconds as Im cutting.
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Old Oct 22, 2009, 11:41 AM
Mach 0.261 ... Hiccup of Wiggy
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Wiggy Poo, England!
Joined Mar 2006
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Recomended's ???

Quote:
Originally Posted by joe manor
The wing control rods are exactly like the elevator but shorter. These are hardened steel rods much stiffer than a typical 4-40 threaded rod. The accessory kit will include all the links pre soldered to the correct length. You will just have to screw on the plastic ball link on the other end and hook it up. The kit will have aluminum arms to fit the Hitec servos reccommended for the model as well as the ball portion to screw into the servo arms.
And the recomended Hitec's are Joe?

George
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Old Oct 22, 2009, 11:52 AM
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7955tg
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Old Oct 22, 2009, 12:07 PM
the occasional flyer
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Rexburg, ID
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe manor
These are hardened steel rods much stiffer than a typical 4-40 threaded rod.
Actually, hardened steel is not stiffer, just stronger.

-David
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Old Oct 22, 2009, 12:14 PM
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These are actually stiffer. Not sure why. Maybe better alloy?
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Old Oct 22, 2009, 01:08 PM
More like crunchman....
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[......I place my fingertip under the cutout area and can usually feel a bit of heat or excess vibration on my fingertip just as Im about to cut through......]

Love your pre-21st.C approach, Joe, a welcome change in a H&S distorted world....

But fail to feel, & you'll know you've gone too far just as soon as the end of your finger zips past your head....
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Old Oct 22, 2009, 01:26 PM
Mach 0.261 ... Hiccup of Wiggy
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Wiggy Poo, England!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsman
[......I place my fingertip under the cutout area and can usually feel a bit of heat or excess vibration on my fingertip just as Im about to cut through......]

Love your pre-21st.C approach, Joe, a welcome change in a H&S distorted world....

But fail to feel, & you'll know you've gone too far just as soon as the end of your finger zips past your head....
I thought exactly that... but more on the blood splattering all over the tail plane... but elected not to drivel on about it graham...

And they call him 'Joe 4 Fingers' ?

George
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Old Oct 22, 2009, 02:21 PM
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Lol. That's exactley how I do it too.

You won't slice the end of ya finger off because you won't be using a cutting disk!!

Joe. What's the reason for such a high torque servo? Is it just because you can? What's the highest torque you can fit in an Opus, 4kilo? Anyone notice blowback at the speeds they reach.

Not doubting you mate just curious.
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Old Oct 22, 2009, 03:09 PM
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The titanuim geared servo is by far the best servo on the market today. I have been using them for years now. They have virtually zero slop, excellent centering, and are indestructable. I have used over 40 of these servos. Crashed them all at high speed. Broke maybe three or four. I reuse these servos all the time. They are worth the money and you will never regret owning a set. Im pretty sure the aluminum arms in the kit will fit other standard Hitec servos if you want to save a few bucks but I personally wouldn't waste my time with a lesser servo. They cost more in the longrun.
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Old Oct 22, 2009, 03:53 PM
Just Fly it
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Cutting Slots

Sorry, Joe, i had thought you used the round grinding wheel to cut slots.
John
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Old Oct 22, 2009, 06:06 PM
DS= -$ & :-)
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Byron Bay, Australia
Joined Feb 2006
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Joe,

I love all the transparency and extra work you put into your products. Everything supplied and cut to correct length, etc, makes it alot easier and quicker for the people buying and building these airframes. The build threads with photos are excellent. Love your work.

Eric
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Old Oct 22, 2009, 09:31 PM
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I actually use this tool to cut almost everything. I use it for horn slots when using .090 plate for the DS models. It has a bottom cutter as well to clean out the bottom of the slot and hopefully not poke through and cut my finger off.

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Attachme...l.aspx?pid=562
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Old Oct 22, 2009, 09:38 PM
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A quick sand on the base of the horns so the glue sticks good.
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Old Oct 22, 2009, 09:48 PM
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To avoid any controversy, I decided to use a structural epoxy to glue in the horns. A high impact glue used to glue golf shafts to club heads. Totally not necessary but I wanted to share this. If I wasnt taking pictures and sharing I personally use Gorilla CA for all my horns. Thats right! Only takes a minute and will not fail in the air. The only catch is that the horn has to have a good fit in the slot when using it or it might not get bonded in very well. I hate waiting. Amyhow, I clean off the horns with acetone and blow out any dust from the slots. I use a syringe and apply the structural epoxy (thickened with milled fiberglass) to the slots. I also pre glue the horns then stick them into the pool of glue. I thin take a rag with rubbing alcohol and wipe up any squeeze out. The horns are fully glued in but next I apply a fillet around the horn to help support it. Done! Not wait 24hrs.
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Old Oct 23, 2009, 03:48 AM
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Forgot the last pics.
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