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Old Jan 30, 2013, 01:57 PM
ETS....Energy retention system
timbuck's Avatar
gold coast australia
Joined Aug 2008
5,262 Posts
Cool...narr ... cold video GB.. Top effort guys, hats off to you.
I'll never say it's cold at cactus ridge again.. Love the last few laps starting to go into cloud in the top turn..

Tim
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 02:11 PM
More like crunchman....
dsman's Avatar
United Kingdom, Cheshire East
Joined Mar 2007
905 Posts
Nah, no problem

Have a look at the adjacent video 'RE in snow 250113' in -5*C without windchill, also in about 20 mph OTT.
(BTW, glitch type problems I was experiencing with M60 turned out to be a slightly loose tranny aerial...)
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 02:20 PM
Stay in it!!!!
Riverside, California, United States
Joined Aug 2004
5,049 Posts
Man that looks cold. And fun!
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 03:34 PM
DS= -$ & :-)
Ezza's Avatar
Byron Bay, Australia
Joined Feb 2006
3,012 Posts
Nice flying dsman! Such an impressive looking spot. Where abouts in the UK is it?

Eric
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 04:11 PM
More like crunchman....
dsman's Avatar
United Kingdom, Cheshire East
Joined Mar 2007
905 Posts
Location is Rushup Edge, near the village of Castleton, in the Peak District.
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 08:44 PM
DS= -$ & :-)
Ezza's Avatar
Byron Bay, Australia
Joined Feb 2006
3,012 Posts
Thanks dsman. Looks like a few spots around there. Very nice!
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 08:50 PM
It flies!
Sean Moloney's Avatar
Sunshine Coast, Australia
Joined Jun 2007
1,512 Posts
Wow what an amazing site and extreme conditions. Thanks for posting.
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Old Sep 25, 2013, 01:04 PM
Pledged to Always Chase Wind
deputybuzz's Avatar
USA, UT, Salt Lake City
Joined Oct 2004
1,625 Posts
Was unable to get the supplied linkage to work without binding against the servo arm screw. In the build thread there are bolts in between the ball and the servo arm. I have the right spacer nuts but now one of my aileron control balls is stripped out by the alan wrench trying to remove it from the servo arm. You can see a red color around the base of the ball in the picture, I believe it is lock tight. If I use pliers to remove the ball it will damage the surface and need to be replaced.

Should these spacers have been supplied? Before I remove the ball and damage it, are these spacer bolts required? Does anyone have a part number to replace this striped out ball?



Another question. I noted that the Aileron servo should lean toward the TE in order to create 90 degree angles for linkage and maximize the travel. I assume when the flap servo is centered is should also lean back a bit towards the TE? I know this servo will be offset 45 degrees when glued in place just wondering what angle it should be at when flap servo is also centered?
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Last edited by deputybuzz; Sep 26, 2013 at 10:17 AM.
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Old Sep 26, 2013, 10:23 AM
Pledged to Always Chase Wind
deputybuzz's Avatar
USA, UT, Salt Lake City
Joined Oct 2004
1,625 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by deputybuzz View Post
Was unable to get the supplied linkage to work without binding against the servo arm screw. In the build thread there are bolts in between the ball and the servo arm. I have the right spacer nuts but now one of my aileron control balls is stripped out by the alan wrench trying to remove it from the servo arm. You can see a red color around the base of the ball in the picture, I believe it is lock tight. If I use pliers to remove the ball it will damage the surface and need to be replaced.

Should these spacers have been supplied? Before I remove the ball and damage it, are these spacer bolts required? Does anyone have a part number to replace this striped out ball?



Another question. I noted that the Aileron servo should lean toward the TE in order to create 90 degree angles for linkage and maximize the travel. I assume when the flap servo is centered is should also lean back a bit towards the TE? I know this servo will be offset 45 degrees when glued in place just wondering what angle it should be at when flap servo is also centered?
Could not find the exact same ball link part but was able to use a 2MM Dubro part to make it work. Spun off the stripped out ball with plyers and installed a new ball using a bolt through the dubro ball link. Works great now.
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Old Sep 26, 2013, 10:45 PM
Stay in it!!!!
Riverside, California, United States
Joined Aug 2004
5,049 Posts
Sorry, I didn't see this until now. I threw the arms in your kit because I ran out of the single balls but I already had some installed on some arms. The arms are custom made to accept a flathead (countersunk) screw. Then the linkage clears. Sorry. It has been a while since I threw together a kit. I could have supplied a few of the proper screws.

Joe
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Old Sep 27, 2013, 07:55 AM
Can you DS it??
spotterone's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Berowra
Joined Aug 2008
1,420 Posts
Pretty sure the ball links you are looking for are from a Thunder Tiger Raptor. The part number is PV0448.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAFYS

The nut is just a 2mm nut. Dubro have them, but you can get them from any engineering supply. Get some 2mm taps from there while you are at it.

Without looking back at the thread, I seem to remember that Joe had detailed the servo arm position pretty well for all surfaces. I did modify mine a little because I was having issues with range of movement with my horribly simple transmitter that I had at the time, so I made new arms to suit the 7955's with the ball links 1mm further out. It required a modification to the servo cover, but it all stayed inside, and I got 90 degree flaps. If you follow the instructions to the letter, you should be right.

Edit: I found it. Here is the link
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Old Sep 27, 2013, 10:33 AM
Pledged to Always Chase Wind
deputybuzz's Avatar
USA, UT, Salt Lake City
Joined Oct 2004
1,625 Posts
My flaps are all glued in place and work great. Plenty of travel but now I regret not getting the flap servos reprogrammed for 180 degree operation. I would easily get the 90 degrees and still give me a little up flap for Aileron to Flap link. Would be more necessary if I was going to be flying heavy but on our little Utah hills this plane will be flying at light weight as possible.

One more hint which may be noted in the thread already? When assembling the tail for the first time I could not get the tail to pull together tight. There are threads in the fuse and the Vertical tail. I couldn't figure out how it was going to pull down tight. Tried a few times before drilling out the threads on the fuse. Now it is Rock Solid.
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Old Jan 09, 2014, 07:27 PM
Objects in mirror are losing
1000MPH's Avatar
USA, NV, Reno
Joined May 2003
3,563 Posts
Where can you buy the flat head servo screws? I've got a PM in with Nutech but he hasn't logged on in a few days.
I used an M2 washer under the ball for a couple of servos. It's given me just enough clearance to use the std servo screw and you can still get an M2 nut on the back of the arm for added security.
What about longer and/or M3 threaded balls? Anyone know a part that is still compatible with the plastic Thunder Tiger ball links (PV0041)?
Also, those hex head balls strip easily, a pair of ball link pliers will help remove a stubborn one.

Edit: I just ordered these screws from Tower for my Karbonite geared std Hitecs.
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Last edited by 1000MPH; Jan 14, 2014 at 10:53 PM.
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Old Jan 10, 2014, 11:17 AM
gas tires and oil
prplgoat's Avatar
malad, idaho
Joined Dec 2004
2,435 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by deputybuzz View Post
My flaps are all glued in place and work great. Plenty of travel but now I regret not getting the flap servos reprogrammed for 180 degree operation. I would easily get the 90 degrees and still give me a little up flap for Aileron to Flap link. Would be more necessary if I was going to be flying heavy but on our little Utah hills this plane will be flying at light weight as possible.
to get full throw on your flap servo with futaba you have to go to programmable mixes and slave the flap servo to offset at 100%.
lightweight as possible??really?

marty
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Old Jan 10, 2014, 12:40 PM
Confirmed Chronic
screamin' eagle's Avatar
Pacific Palisades, CA
Joined Jul 2004
9,215 Posts
I bought my D80 expertly built and set up for JR. After the first few flights, I wanted more flap throw and was able to get it with the hitec servo programmer. Now I get close to 90 degrees of flap throw.
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