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Old Feb 04, 2010, 12:28 AM
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5 minute Epoxy on all major joints. I am a bit old school I guess.

My receiver is just aft of the battery area. I can grab it with a pair of hemostats and pull it forward when I need to get to it. Then I just shove it back into the rear of the center section when done.
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Old Feb 04, 2010, 12:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BARNESJONR View Post
My receiver is just aft of the battery area. I can grab it with a pair of hemostats and pull it forward when I need to get to it. Then I just shove it back into the rear of the center section when done.
Same here. It's really tight but accessible if need be.
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Old Feb 04, 2010, 05:53 PM
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I got my new J-Power planes today!
A-10 & P-38

P-38 notes:
1) I got a silver one. it's, silver. not green, silver.
2) monofilament is there, but came unglued, no big deal.
3) did not check the main gear yet, I need to plug then in and drop them.
4) some slight paint chipping on the wing edges.


Some A-10 notes:
1) HUGE! Sooo nice!
2) one front hinge not glued
3) the motors are 3950kv per spec sheet that says blitz rc on it
4) the led lights: are dim, but has a circuit board that lights all up, I think it is a power meter. funny, it works off the lipo balance tab - but only fits a 4s pack. this is a 3s plane. a J-power oops!?!?


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Old Feb 04, 2010, 07:15 PM
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Owatonna MN 55060
Joined Sep 2005
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Anyone else having trouble getting the cowl's off of theirs? One side came right off after I took the two screws out. The other is still resisting me. Ran a thin piece of plastic all the way around, then a tapered piece of 1/16 ply, pulled really hard but it's still stuck.

The motor was held on by only one screw on the side I got off. The second screw was between the insert and the foam instead of in the hole in the insert. Also it looks like the back of the motor shaft rubs the clear plastic spacer. Needs a hole in the spacer to prevent this.

Edit:
I got it off, without damaging anything too seriously. Stuck on with paint. Same thing with the motor mount screws on this side, only one was holding it on. Grub screws on this motor were very loose.

Anyone know the pitch on the stock props, looks like 9.5" diameter.
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Old Feb 04, 2010, 09:23 PM
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thanks Pete!!!

right there too, p38 arrived today...once over looking good, liking the silver too after all. Will be getting into it more oh so soon..
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Old Feb 04, 2010, 09:48 PM
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I notice a small problem with my nose gear...the wheel doesn't retract all the way up unless I move the rudder...when I do this the nose wheel kinda wiggles in. I don't see it getting hung up on anything...any ideas?

Also...I have a servo slow down I want to use...it is the tenergy one from HK. Anyone use that before...I am not sure what connection goes to the servo and what goes to the receiver. Thanks in advance.
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Old Feb 04, 2010, 10:32 PM
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I have not tried my gear yet, but the nose gear looks like it turns at an angle as it retracts. and like it might then rub on the one side when dropping down. I'll test it to be sure.

also my left side motor is loose. have to check that out.

The silver is growing on me. but I hate that odd looking circular nose art. I'm thinking the nose art I made for my e-flite P-38 will replace it. hot red head old time WWII nose art with words "slightly dangerous"
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Old Feb 04, 2010, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Todd Breda View Post
Same here. It's really tight but accessible if need be.
I think I am going to buy a couple of 3" extentions...that way I don't get the receiver trapped! I can just get to the receiver...not much room at all.
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Old Feb 04, 2010, 10:40 PM
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I wonder if that nose gear turning issue was one of the factors in the failing? The retract wheel and gear goes up and the wheel bends regardless of rudder input...Then when it's all snug in there as you're flying around it gets caught in the gear area...Especially if you have the extra linkages on your gear as I do...
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Old Feb 04, 2010, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd Breda View Post
I wonder if that nose gear turning issue was one of the factors in the failing? The retract wheel and gear goes up and the wheel bends regardless of rudder input...Then when it's all snug in there as you're flying around it gets caught in the gear area...Especially if you have the extra linkages on your gear as I do...
I moved my EPA down to 90% and now it is closing better...and the servos aren't growling anymore. I am retracting them with the plane upside down so I will have to do more testing once I have the wings locked in.

Anyone using the servo slow down from HK...since all of the gear are connected...can I just plug that into the slow down or does it have to be each servo by itself? I will be gluing everything up tomorrow after I figure out the retract slow down and get the extentions. I want to have easy access to the receiver...just in case! By the way did any of you see the new B-25 Hobby-lobby has coming out? Wish the retracts on the 38 where like those on that B-25!
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Old Feb 05, 2010, 12:07 AM
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ok, tried the A-10 gear - all 3 work great.

Tried the P-38 gear, well, just tried the nose gear. ugh! ugly!
The retract - when gear down, is crooked. did a little gentle bending, a bit better, not perfect but close for now.
but the big problem is the gear door. I re-attached the monofilament mount that came unglued. then tried it. the gear is not strong enough to close the door all the way. if I close it the rest of the way by hand, it mostly stays closed, but it seems the hinges are too strong. The hinges are pretty strong, the gear door itelf seems flimsy. the A-10 hinges seems a little weak, but do the job, the A-10 gear door is much firmer.



The hinges are sprung - that is what opens the gear door. so the monofilament? (looks like fishing line) is just strung across the path of the retracting retract leg and it pulls the door shut. so just about any fishing line or whatever should do if yours is missing
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Old Feb 05, 2010, 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by PositivelyJoe View Post
ok, tried the A-10 gear - all 3 work great.

Tried the P-38 gear, well, just tried the nose gear. ugh! ugly!
The retract - when gear down, is crooked. did a little gentle bending, a bit better, not perfect but close for now.
but the big problem is the gear door. I re-attached the monofilament mount that came unglued. then tried it. the gear is not strong enough to close the door all the way. if I close it the rest of the way by hand, it mostly stays closed, but it seems the hinges are too strong. The hinges are pretty strong, the gear door itelf seems flimsy. the A-10 hinges seems a little weak, but do the job, the A-10 gear door is much firmer.



The hinges are sprung - that is what opens the gear door. so the monofilament? (looks like fishing line) is just strung across the path of the retracting retract leg and it pulls the door shut. so just about any fishing line or whatever should do if yours is missing
My nose gear looks different!
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Old Feb 05, 2010, 12:26 AM
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really? how so? post a photo?
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Old Feb 05, 2010, 12:27 AM
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Originally Posted by PositivelyJoe View Post
really? how so? post a photo?
Sure!
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Old Feb 05, 2010, 12:30 AM
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oops. nm
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Last edited by PositivelyJoe; Feb 05, 2010 at 12:49 AM.
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