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Old May 19, 2012, 04:29 AM
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Those will move it along very nicely! Stock ESCs work fine for mine.
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Old May 22, 2012, 01:26 PM
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Kurt's Avatar
United States, TX, Houston
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thanks sub - just missed the postman today, so will pick the motors up at the post office when I get back from a business trip Friday and maybe have them in for a re-maiden this weekend.

BTW - spare props and spinners are back in stock at HK
oops - check that props were in stock (when I ordered 2 sets yesterday)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=19091

spinners and hubs
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=19092
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Old May 24, 2012, 06:06 PM
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nothing's really easy is it....

Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 3530-1150kv power plants arrived, and boy are they snazzy.

The only issue seems to be the 25mm long bolt-on shaft is about 5mm too short!
Without the spinner backing plate there is JUST enough thread to get the shaft nut on. But then what about the backing plate? Unless I get a new, longer bolt-on shaft (by the way, should I remove the thinner shaft that comes out the back, or is this needed for the internal bearings so I'll have to drill a hole in the mount to clear this inside?) it will require thinning the prop hub and/or spinner backing plate (which will still require drilling/reaming out to fit over the 4mm shaft).
I didn't see any pics or description here about needing to modify the prop hub or spinner, did anyone have to do this when installing aftermarket motors?
Plugged one into the stock V1 ESC and she spools up smooth and powerful...
thanks!
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Old May 24, 2012, 07:39 PM
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Long Island, NY
Joined May 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurt View Post
Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 3530-1150kv power plants arrived, and boy are they snazzy.

The only issue seems to be the 25mm long bolt-on shaft is about 5mm too short!
Without the spinner backing plate there is JUST enough thread to get the shaft nut on. But then what about the backing plate? Unless I get a new, longer bolt-on shaft (by the way, should I remove the thinner shaft that comes out the back, or is this needed for the internal bearings so I'll have to drill a hole in the mount to clear this inside?) it will require thinning the prop hub and/or spinner backing plate (which will still require drilling/reaming out to fit over the 4mm shaft).
I didn't see any pics or description here about needing to modify the prop hub or spinner, did anyone have to do this when installing aftermarket motors?
Plugged one into the stock V1 ESC and she spools up smooth and powerful...
thanks!
Can you reverse the shaft and use a collet-type prop adapter that is longer?
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Old May 24, 2012, 07:41 PM
If it's to be, it's up to me.
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Sydney, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kurt View Post
Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 3530-1150kv power plants arrived, and boy are they snazzy.

The only issue seems to be the 25mm long bolt-on shaft is about 5mm too short!
Without the spinner backing plate there is JUST enough thread to get the shaft nut on. But then what about the backing plate? Unless I get a new, longer bolt-on shaft (by the way, should I remove the thinner shaft that comes out the back, or is this needed for the internal bearings so I'll have to drill a hole in the mount to clear this inside?) it will require thinning the prop hub and/or spinner backing plate (which will still require drilling/reaming out to fit over the 4mm shaft).
I didn't see any pics or description here about needing to modify the prop hub or spinner, did anyone have to do this when installing aftermarket motors?
Plugged one into the stock V1 ESC and she spools up smooth and powerful...
thanks!
Hmm, I used the accessory pack that comes with the 35 series motors and mine fits OK http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...sory_Pack.html

I did not use the washer though, just put the cone nut straight on. I seem to recall, the thread engagement is marginal, but enough (maybe 4 turns?)

If you wish to use the spinner back plate, you have to drill it out. Use a 6mm drill. I did mine on my lathe, but you could easily get a good result with a hand drill, because the hex in the back will centre the drill, and the spinner is held square to the shaft by the spinner back surface.

You donít need to cut the steel motor shaft. Just drill an oversized hole in the firewall and foam.

HTH. Sub
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Old May 24, 2012, 09:17 PM
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Joined Apr 2012
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Still all stock except for the Dynam 3 bladed props and Low bounce air wheels. Not sure how many flights its been probably high 20's low 30's something like that. been a solid performer. LOL made a deal with my self that i wouldn't buy the FMS 38 until this one was a total loss and I think she heard me.....:P Just keeps flying true.

cheers
B

JPower P-38 1400mm shot with GoPro HD Hero 2 (6 min 6 sec)
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Old May 24, 2012, 10:36 PM
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Sub - very helpful, thanks!

Wish I had ordered a couple of those prop drive kits at only $1.89 a pop. That measly 2 extra mm over the 25mm shaft on mine would allow a stock prop hub; as you can see in the pic below when I use a V2 spinner plate (reamed to 6mm) there's only about 1.5 threads showing.
Anyway, I tried out one of the Master Airscrew props bought in anticipation of the counter-rotating mod by Z8RC and with these there's plenty of threads! Even enough for the washer as well.
If for whatever reason I want to go back to stop props (have 2 sets of spares on the way from HK....) I could always shave 1mm off per side of a stock prop hub to lay it flatter against the spinner plate. Turning it on the Unimat lathe my grand-pop handed down to me would be the truest way.

Wasn't thinking about cutting the thinner shaft, just removing the 2 grub screws from one side and c-clip (my dad used to call these "Jesus" clip, because they always popped off, almost impossible to find, while you shouted "JESUS!") from the other and it should slide right out. Didn't know if the field and stator bearings depended on this to keep the whole thing aligned though. Leaving it there and drilling a hole through the plywood mount and a cavity in the foam is no problemo.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Galand View Post
Can you reverse the shaft and use a collet-type prop adapter that is longer?
Good thought, but the collet-type is even shorter than the bolt-on.

B - sweet flying, very nice vid, and awesome field! Excellent name too
V2 correct? 3S or 4? Stock, or mods? Looks like you've kept her in great shape.
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Old May 24, 2012, 11:20 PM
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Just checking my old post where I explained how I changed motors, and it looks like I machined the front off the prop hubs. See here: http://static.rcgroups.net/forums/at...7-IMG_0849.jpg At least that explains how I got my stock prop to fit when yours didn't. If you take that front step off the hub I'm sure you'll get the stock props to go on.

Sorry about that, it was a while ago...

Sub
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Old May 27, 2012, 12:03 AM
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thanks Sub.
I cut down a couple V1 hubs, but they're now a touch out of balance and I can't find the balancer I used to true RC motorcycle wheels with. So put on the Master Airscrew push/pull and reversed an ESC.
1/2 throttle is MOVING some air.
New rudder servo linked up, changed over the back end to adjustable stoppers.
She looks a bit rough but with
3 charged 2200/3Ss, and weather permitting, we'll re-maiden her tomorrow at Bong RC field.
Upwards and onwards!
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Old May 27, 2012, 08:03 AM
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Good Luck on your maiden
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Old May 27, 2012, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maddawg1 View Post
Good Luck on your maiden
Thanks much dawg, but the re-maiden was postponed. Winds were 15mph++ this morning, and for at least the first flight I'd like them to be below 10.
Next chance looks to be Wednesday
http://www.weather.com/weather/tenda...a+WI+WISPBS:13
I did use today to add a tab and 4-40 capscrew to the battery cover so there will be no chance of losing it in flight.
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Old May 30, 2012, 02:26 AM
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Norge, Troms, Bardu
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I need the front weel landingsystem. Where can I get it? And proppellers?
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Old May 30, 2012, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pulver View Post
I need the front weel landingsystem. Where can I get it? And proppellers?
Pulver - for props see above post 5057.

front retract: http://www.hobbypartz.com/pz-15090-retract.html
Re-use your strut and wheel

I was bench testing my V1/2 and the (pusher) prop came off! Luckily it didn't fly in my direction. Thought I had tightened the prop nut, but didn't use loctite and trying to hold the shaft stationary with a screwdriver on the rounded shoulder didn't allow me to put enough torque on it.
So I broke out the mini-files and made up tool with a piece of 1/8" aluminum to grab flats I filed into the prop shaft base, thin enough to slip in between the spinner plate and cowl.
Works great, can now crank down the prop nut with a 10mm wrench as hard as I dare.

Are y'all using loctite on the prop nut? I'd really like to safety-wire it but would rather not try to drill a hole through the nut and shaft...

Also a shot of the reinforced battery hatch with 4-40 bolt down.
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Old May 30, 2012, 07:31 PM
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Nice work on the tool and the hatch hold down. I once lost my front hatch into the props because the (older) 3S pack swelled slightly, ejecting the hatch.

The loosening prop nut on pusher props is a common problem, becuase the prop rotation direction tends to loosen the nut. It is often solved with locktite, but I prefer another nut jamed over the first if there is room.

I made a similar tool to yours, I just put a 90 degree bend in a 2mm pushrod wire on the last 4mm or so. It works well.

Sub.
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Old Jun 04, 2012, 02:12 PM
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Successful V1/2 Maiden!

Thanks Sub.

Big day today: successful (re-)maiden!

This one was dedicated to Maj. Bong, and of course to RGS, Sub, and everyone else on this thread who helped me get her flight worthy.

After the first attempt a few weeks ago lasted all of 5 seconds due to reversed ailerons I fixed her up, checked everything 5 times, and made this one count.

Today had gorgeous blue skies and gentle 5-10mph winds so ducked out of work for a fly.

Knees weak, fingers jittery, mouth full of cotton, pointed her into the wind, ran up to full throttle and off she went.
Only had to add a bit of down elev (cg about 65mm from leading edge of wing root) and a few clicks of aileron and she was tracking straight and level.

What a sweet flier! Mind you I'm coming from about 30 minutes on a micro T-28 and 5 hours on Clearview Sim, so I'm far from experienced.

Ran through four 3s-2200mAH batteries, each ending up after ~4 minutes in the air with ~11.3V left.

First 3 landings were smooth and touched down on the paved runway, but came in a bit crooked so ended up in the grass (upgraded nose wheel held up of course, and stock V1 rears did also). Finished by totally greasing the 4th dead nuts straight in the middle of the strip so was able to turn her around and taxi back, which was the icing on a very sweet cake.

On the second flight did a few quick barrel rolls. 3rd flight did more with a bit of straight inverted flight, and threw in a loop for good measure. I'm using less than 1/2 the full throws on the elevator and ailerons and she's still quite nimble IMO. Had the D/R set on 70%, 85% and 100%, expo 30. Middle setting for elev and ailerons was more than snappy enough for my first 4 flights.

Onboard video from the HD Keychain cam is a bit jittery (just taped it down with shiny clear tape), but neat nonetheless.

Can't wait to go back up. What a great feeling!

















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