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Old Nov 12, 2011, 12:43 AM
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Dallas, TX
Joined Oct 2010
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Originally Posted by 6Sally5 View Post
Hey TXFlyboy...I read in this thread somewhere that a guy was replacing the stock motors with Exceed RC Optima motors, MAS 3-blade props, and DuBro spinners. Was that you? I am planning on the same thing, but can't figure out how to attach the spinners with backplate to the motor shafts. The shafts are too short to extend through the nacelles. Is there a longer prop adapter somewhere? Thanks, Alan
nope, sorry, it wasn't me... wish it was since I put mine in nose first a couple of months ago and am still rebuilding/repainting/etc. I have been looking for new motors to no avail - either they won't work or always out of stock! I will probably buy a kit for $89 and steal the motors/spinner/props (and possibly upgrade to etracts (mine is a V1)) out of it and keep the rest for spare parts for the next crash!

good luck on your quest and if you do find a solution be sure to post it!

TX
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Old Nov 12, 2011, 09:56 AM
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Galand's Avatar
Long Island, NY
Joined May 2010
1,432 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 6Sally5 View Post
Hey TXFlyboy...I read in this thread somewhere that a guy was replacing the stock motors with Exceed RC Optima motors, MAS 3-blade props, and DuBro spinners. Was that you? I am planning on the same thing, but can't figure out how to attach the spinners with backplate to the motor shafts. The shafts are too short to extend through the nacelles. Is there a longer prop adapter somewhere? Thanks, Alan
This will give you an idea on how to upgrade motors:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1419
I used these motors:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=3883
They are not in stock but you can find equivalents.
The pic's below show how I mounted them. I also put a 1550mAh batt in each nacelle and made the wing tips removable.
The stock prop and spinner looked terrible!
So I put on Dubro 3 blade spinners with GWS 9x5 3b props.
When you use a can-mounted prop adapter it is simple to fit the spinners and props.
It flies very well and up to 15 mins!
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Old Nov 14, 2011, 09:50 PM
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United States, CA, Lincoln
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TX Flyboy View Post
nope, sorry, it wasn't me... wish it was since I put mine in nose first a couple of months ago and am still rebuilding/repainting/etc. I have been looking for new motors to no avail - either they won't work or always out of stock! I will probably buy a kit for $89 and steal the motors/spinner/props (and possibly upgrade to etracts (mine is a V1)) out of it and keep the rest for spare parts for the next crash!

good luck on your quest and if you do find a solution be sure to post it!

TX
Thanks to you and TXFlyboy. I can't wait to get this back in the air...especially since I only go to take off, then handed it over to somebody else who, no fault of his, had an unplanned sudden landing! Haha!
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Old Nov 14, 2011, 09:54 PM
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Wow Galand!!! That looks fantastic! Congratulations...any flying vids?
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Old Nov 15, 2011, 07:39 PM
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Long Island, NY
Joined May 2010
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Originally Posted by 6Sally5 View Post
Wow Galand!!! That looks fantastic! Congratulations...any flying vids?
Thanks.
This is it's maiden flown by my son Harold:
http://www.youtube.com/user/b6s4shel.../5/Qqrymlx4TWQ
Not very good quality video.
I was quite sceptical about the landing gear on that "first cut" type rough grass, but it actually did quite well.
No more loosing hatches. I now use rubber bands around the gondola and the nacelles. Have to find a better fixation method for those.
Doubled up on the magnets for the compressor covers, that now holds them.
The Dubro spinners and GWS props, even if not scale, came out quite well, I think.
And it is an excellent prop/motor/battery flying combination.
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Old Nov 15, 2011, 11:25 PM
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Monahans TX
Joined Sep 2010
1,925 Posts
Reinforce the hatch and nose with a bit of balsa or basswood and install one (or two) of these:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9218

Only reason for the wood is because foam has a tendency to wear out quickly and then you're back at square one.
Building a frame for the assembly, along with the area that the latch will hold against right in front of the windshield, will provide a solid and secure way to lock the hatch down without being too noticeable.
Looks way better than rubber bands even though it's hard to beat rubber bands for reliability

Before mine was destroyed I had one for the battery hatch and two for another access hatch that I cut out from underneath the cockpit...they worked perfectly.
The bottom latches held up even when belly landing on rather rough dirt/dead grass.
Highly recommended!
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Old Nov 16, 2011, 06:23 AM
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Lake Havasu City AZ
Joined Feb 2009
165 Posts
My CG is tail heavy with the largest battery that will fit. Do you guys have to add weight to the nose to correct. Is 70mm from the lead edge of the wing correct?
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Old Nov 16, 2011, 11:32 AM
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Monahans TX
Joined Sep 2010
1,925 Posts
That's really odd, a 3S 2200mah battery is more than enough to balance.
An even bigger battery is on the verge of being too nose heavy.
What version do you have?
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Old Nov 16, 2011, 01:42 PM
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United States, CA, Lincoln
Joined Jan 2011
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Well done, Galand and nice flying by Harold. Do you have any pics of the modification of the nacelles for the 1500ma batteries? I'd like to see how you did that.
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Old Nov 16, 2011, 05:04 PM
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Long Island, NY
Joined May 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestTexasKing View Post
Reinforce the hatch and nose with a bit of balsa or basswood and install one (or two) of these:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9218

Only reason for the wood is because foam has a tendency to wear out quickly and then you're back at square one.
Building a frame for the assembly, along with the area that the latch will hold against right in front of the windshield, will provide a solid and secure way to lock the hatch down without being too noticeable.
Looks way better than rubber bands even though it's hard to beat rubber bands for reliability

Before mine was destroyed I had one for the battery hatch and two for another access hatch that I cut out from underneath the cockpit...they worked perfectly.
The bottom latches held up even when belly landing on rather rough dirt/dead grass.
Highly recommended!
I agree, the rubber bands look terrible but its quick and you cannot see them in the air.
Might try the latches during the dark days of winter building.
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Old Nov 16, 2011, 06:02 PM
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Long Island, NY
Joined May 2010
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Originally Posted by 6Sally5 View Post
Well done, Galand and nice flying by Harold. Do you have any pics of the modification of the nacelles for the 1500ma batteries? I'd like to see how you did that.
I stole the idea from someone. I think Gohmer but not sure.
I do not have a pic of the batts in place.
I slide them into the nacelle, contact wires first. They sit snug, sticking out approx 1/2". I attached a velcro strip to each battery to help with pulling them back out.
The starboard side also has the power connector (balance plug) for powering the Smart Bec.
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Last edited by Galand; Nov 16, 2011 at 06:13 PM.
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Old Nov 17, 2011, 06:13 AM
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Lake Havasu City AZ
Joined Feb 2009
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Originally Posted by WestTexasKing View Post
That's really odd, a 3S 2200mah battery is more than enough to balance.
An even bigger battery is on the verge of being too nose heavy.
What version do you have?
It's a V1. Using a 3s 2200mah 30c battery that weighs 185g. Balances right at the spar.
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Old Nov 21, 2011, 04:39 PM
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Norge, Troms, Bardu
Joined May 2011
170 Posts
Where the heck are your`s wings???

But if you airborne your`s plane like that..I love to se a video
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Old Nov 21, 2011, 06:30 PM
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Long Island, NY
Joined May 2010
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Originally Posted by pulver View Post
Where the heck are your`s wings???

But if you airborne your`s plane like that..I love to se a video
No need to be confused, Pulver. Removable wing tips.
See posts #3639 et #3675 on how to do it.
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Old Nov 23, 2011, 12:58 PM
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Joined Nov 2011
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$49.00 p-38

Banana Item 2028, $49.00. They can't seem to tell you which version you'll get.
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