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Old Oct 28, 2011, 01:12 AM
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Monahans TX
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Not overly detailed, but there's really not a whole lot of detail to start with.




Keep in mind that it's subjected to a LOT of heat, and thus is bare metal. Since bare metal rusts rather quickly, especially at high temperatures, it takes on a dark brown/gray color. Reddish brown (typical rust color) is incorrect, since the high temp metal they used (inconel) oxidizes with a darker color under high temps.
Here's what inconel usually looks like after many hours of hard use:

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Old Oct 28, 2011, 06:53 AM
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yorkshire UK
Joined Oct 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subsonic View Post
Can anyone advise, is this the same as the hobby king plane?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...lug%5FFly.html

If not, I can't seem to find a thread on it?

sub
erm yes! though 2 versions are now available and version2 is a much better bet, look though earlier posts here and you will see. mine was from jpower in uk and was version2 and is pretty much fine without any mods
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Old Oct 28, 2011, 07:08 AM
If it's to be, it's up to me.
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Sydney, Australia
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Thanks for that, BH and HK had different wingspans listed, that confused me.

Some would say; easily done...
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Old Oct 28, 2011, 07:41 AM
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I believe that only BH sells the newer version 2 with the larger wingspan. HK is still selling the version 1.

Todd
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Old Oct 28, 2011, 10:00 AM
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USA, TX, Corpus Christi
Joined Oct 2001
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hk vs bh

Quote:
Originally Posted by subsonic View Post
Can anyone advise, is this the same as the hobby king plane?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...lug%5FFly.html

If not, I can't seem to find a thread on it?

sub
Hobby King sells the v1. Banana sells the v2. The v2 is much better. The v2 has electric retracts, better paint, and more powerful motors. My first v2 (olive drab) had way too much dihederal in the wings. It looked like an old Hobie Hawk glider. My second v2 (silver) is much better. Also, the v2 is much easier to assemble as most of it just bolts together. I am not a big fan of Banana Hobby, but really no issues on this one. The v1 and v2 are the same size.
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Old Oct 29, 2011, 10:04 AM
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Norge, Troms, Bardu
Joined May 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestTexasKing View Post
Not overly detailed, but there's really not a whole lot of detail to start with.




Keep in mind that it's subjected to a LOT of heat, and thus is bare metal. Since bare metal rusts rather quickly, especially at high temperatures, it takes on a dark brown/gray color. Reddish brown (typical rust color) is incorrect, since the high temp metal they used (inconel) oxidizes with a darker color under high temps.
Here's what inconel usually looks like after many hours of hard use:

So that means it`s most skala-like in rusty red?? So it`s no use in painting it in different colours?
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Old Oct 29, 2011, 03:47 PM
Efficiency Freak!
Toanawanda NY
Joined Nov 2006
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Here's some 'more' accurate info on the stock "Blue" ESC's.

I purchased the Hobbyking P-38 from the USA warehouse.

(Note: The P-38 can no longer be searched or found on hobbyking.com by looking for the "P-38" or "Lightning"! It's product description has been changed to only "1.4m EPO Warbird w/ Retracts Plug-&-Fly")

The ESC's have blue shrinkwrap with no label (NO supprise here).

If the heatshrink is cut off over the alu heatsink, you will see it has a nice finned design and should cool much better now.

I have pulled 25amps through this ESC on 4s with stock prop assy/spinner and stock motor. 15amps is about the max average I would 'want' to pull through this set up durring a flight though.

It seems to be the same as the J-power/Blitzworks/bananahobby ESC as in the blitzworks manual!

The programing is strange and annoying, but it matches up to the ESC's I got with my P-38 from the HK USA WH.

Also, the manual has terrible representations of what the beeps mean, so I sat down and tried to come up with what I think should be easier to understand/read.

I used an approximation of what 'musical note' the beeps sound like and created this table:

Programming Mode Audible Tones
Throttle Calibration: (within about the first 4Sec ) A, A, A, A
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
(Note: Programing mode tones start with NO delay after the throttle calibration tones)
1. Brake:
AA,............................................... .............(x4)= On /Off
2. Battery type:
BCDE-A,................................................. ....(x4)= NiCad
B,................................................ ..............(x4)= LiPo
3. Low Voltage Cutoff Threshold:
AAA,.............................................. ...........(x4)= Low 2.8V/50%
A-A,................................................ ..........(x4)= Medium 3.0V/60%
AA-AA,............................................... ........(x4)= High 3.2V/65%
4. Restore Factory Setup Defaults:
BCDE-A-BCDE-A,..........................................(x4)= Restore/Reset
5. Timing Setup:
B-B,................................................ ..........(x4)= Automatic (7-30)
AAA-AAA,.............................................. .....(x4)= Low (7-22)
A-A-A,................................................ ........(x4)= High (22-30)
6. Soft Acceleration Start Ups:
AA-AA-AA,............................................... ..(x4)= Very Soft
BCDE-A-BCDE-A-BCDE-A,..............................(x4)= Soft Acceleration
B-B-B,................................................ .......(x4)= Normal Acceleration
7. Governor Mode:
AAA-AAA-AAA, ........................................... (x4)= RPM Governor OFF
A-A-A-A, .................................................. .(x4)= Heli first range
AA-AA-AA-AA, .............................................(x4)= Heli second range
8. Motor Rotation:
BCDE-A-BCDE-A-BCDE-A-BCDE-A,....................(x4)= Normal/ Reverse
9. Switching Frequency:
B-B-B-B,................................................ ......(x4)= 8kHz
AAA-AAA-AAA-AAA,........................................(x4)= 16kHz
10. Low Voltage Cutoff Type:
A-B,................................................ ............(x4)= Reduce Power
A-AAA,.............................................. ...........(x4)= Hard Cut Off


(Note: The beeps do not cycle to the start when it reaches the end, and you can only program one parameter for each time you plug in your lipo and enter programing mode!)

Here is the manual PDF again so you have this handy as well.

Let me know if this is a good format for understanding the beeps on these crazy ESC's, I'm open to suggestions for changes.

Later,
Jay
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Last edited by GITech; Oct 29, 2011 at 07:39 PM.
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Old Oct 29, 2011, 07:51 PM
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Monahans TX
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Pulver, the most authentic color would be like the last two pictures, not the first one.
Try a dark metallic gray with a very small amount of brown mixed in rather than a rusty red color.
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Old Oct 30, 2011, 05:15 AM
If it's to be, it's up to me.
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Sydney, Australia
Joined Jan 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpflyer View Post
Hobby King sells the v1. Banana sells the v2. The v2 is much better. The v2 has electric retracts, better paint, and more powerful motors. My first v2 (olive drab) had way too much dihederal in the wings. It looked like an old Hobie Hawk glider. My second v2 (silver) is much better. Also, the v2 is much easier to assemble as most of it just bolts together. I am not a big fan of Banana Hobby, but really no issues on this one. The v1 and v2 are the same size.
So to get the v2 to me in Australia is $100 more. Do you think it's worth it for the improvements between the two?

Sub
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Old Oct 30, 2011, 01:48 PM
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USA, TX, Corpus Christi
Joined Oct 2001
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$$$

Quote:
Originally Posted by subsonic View Post
So to get the v2 to me in Australia is $100 more. Do you think it's worth it for the improvements between the two?

Sub
Hmmm.... that is a tough one. I don't own a V1, but my flying buddy does. Most of his problems are with the retracts. He has had stripped servos and broken retracts. He says mine is faster, but I'm not sure about that. Maybe get the V1 and a set of electric retracts. The biggest difference I note between his and mine, was that mine just bolts together while his was glued. I can break mine down if need be, (the control horns would be a problem) while he would have to cut his apart. The paint on the V2 is more crisp, less overspray, so I guess it comes down to do you want something to throw together and go fly or work a bit more in the workshop to get it right, but a save some money. If you throw in the price of the retracts (about $40) now you are only $60 apart if that make your decision any easier. Hope this helps.
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Old Oct 30, 2011, 02:31 PM
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Monahans TX
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Or, make it a belly lander and remove the V1 retracts for more weight savings.
If you want retract gear, I'd go with the V2.
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Old Oct 30, 2011, 02:53 PM
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Rob Knox's Avatar
Meringandan, QLD , Australia
Joined Jan 2011
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V1 or V2

Sub sonic,
mate, if you're happy hand launching and belly landing, then go the V1.
ONLY if you have a paved surface as a runway should you get the V2.
If not, then get the V1 and hand launch / belly land.

This model's ONLY vice is the garbage under carriage, otherwise it flies beautifully.
Give it a go, you'll love it.
Some links to a couple of my vids so you can see how easily it actually does hand launch / Belly land
Rob
RC P38 Lightning Another Enjoyable Flight (4 min 42 sec)


RC J Power P 38 Lightning Maiden Flight Slide Show.wmv (4 min 29 sec)
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Old Oct 30, 2011, 03:40 PM
If it's to be, it's up to me.
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Sydney, Australia
Joined Jan 2007
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Thanks for the replies guys.

Actually adding it up, the HK version would cost me $156 delivered, and the BH version would be $274. Kind of tips the balance in favour of the HK version, mostly because BH want $99 to ship to Australia.

Researching replacement gear now. This thread is pretty good!

sub.
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Old Oct 30, 2011, 04:40 PM
Efficiency Freak!
Toanawanda NY
Joined Nov 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subsonic View Post
Thanks for the replies guys.

Actually adding it up, the HK version would cost me $156 delivered, and the BH version would be $274. Kind of tips the balance in favour of the HK version, mostly because BH want $99 to ship to Australia.

Researching replacement gear now. This thread is pretty good!

sub.

Hi sub,

This is what I've got on order for my P-38 retract system:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=12955

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=14459

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=8863

Jay
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Last edited by GITech; Oct 30, 2011 at 09:47 PM.
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Old Oct 30, 2011, 10:36 PM
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United States, CA, Lincoln
Joined Jan 2011
717 Posts
Hi Guys, I recently bought a used BH P-38 from a guy that had already changed his retracts, and they work pretty good. The nose gear is E-flite and the mains are from Hobbypartz...cheap, but effective. On my maiden flight, it took off very smoothly and I thought it was going to be a really good buy ($60). Turning downwind and picking up speed, however, it started really porpoising badly and was becoming a real handful to fly. I turned it over to a friend who I consider a much better pilot than me. He tried to trim it out, but it was very difficult for him to control too. Unfortunately, after 3 failed attempts to land, it stalled from about 15 and went nose-in. It was a pretty big mess, but everything still worked. I've now got it mostly re-assembled. I've taken the opportunity to strengthen firewalls and connections at the booms to the fuse, It's got some body work to get worked out, but it will fly again. Still can't figure out what went wrong with it, though. I want to change the motors, and thought now would be a good time to make them counter-rotate. Should be easy enough. Question...if I do that, what should I do with the built-in offset on the motor firewalls? If the starboard motor rotates now in opposite direction, what effect will it have if the offset stays? Great P-38 thread! Glad I found you. Thanks, Alan

I forgot...my main reason for posting was to find out what the COG is supposed to be on this bird. I have no manual.
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