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Old May 18, 2011, 03:38 AM
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Monahans TX
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Looks like a great little bird you built up, Galand!
Is there a flight video in the future possibly?
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Old May 18, 2011, 04:03 PM
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United States, FL, Fort Lauderdale
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Originally Posted by Rob Knox View Post
Mate, you have got to get rid of that crap nose art which comes with the model.
The ACFT was California Cutie, NOT Californid. I got mine from Callie Graphics and they are great.
Here is the link to her website http://www.callie-graphics.com/
What scale did you get?
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Old May 18, 2011, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by WestTexasKing View Post
Looks like a great little bird you built up, Galand!
Is there a flight video in the future possibly?
Thanks, we'll have video, sure.
Any suggestion on the FlySky Tx mixes to suppress steering when nosewheel is up?
How's the SlowStick coming along?
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Old May 18, 2011, 04:33 PM
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Meringandan, QLD , Australia
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Originally Posted by rickfe101 View Post
What scale did you get?
G'day Rick,
1/11th
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Old May 18, 2011, 05:53 PM
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United States, CA, Carmel Valley
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J-Power P-38 V2

Just got it today: only 5 days from order to delivery. Everything looks good except for upside-down "U" shaped horizontal stabilizer and upswept wing tips. Very fixable.
I just keep telling myself this is a very lightweight and very inexpensive RTF of a very cool airplane!

Thanks Banana Hobby!
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Old May 18, 2011, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by rickfe101 View Post
What scale did you get?
Just tell Callie it's the J-Power P-38. She has the specs for it.
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Old May 18, 2011, 07:37 PM
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V2 Topfire radio?

I ordered the whole P-38 V2 RTF, which includes a "6-channel radio". Well folks, the TX is actually only 5 channels. There is a switch to enable/disable A/Mix but no instructions as to what, exactly "A/Mix" is nor how one would use it. This is not a computer radio.

I wasn't surprised and I had actually planned to use it on another 4-channel foamie for which it will be ideal.

But be forewarned! The V2 still has the nosewheel steering servo binding when using rudder with gear up. J-Power's workaround was to put a large "Z" bend in the steering wire to keep from stripping the servo gears.

Interestingly, the "Topfire" 6-channel RX looks just like a Hitec Optic 6, even has the BODA.......
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Old May 18, 2011, 07:41 PM
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First Time with Wing Tips

It is coming together. Fully assembled with wing tips and GWS HD9x5 3b props.
Each motor TR C35-30 1100kV is pulling 20.6A and 233W WOT static, so the 9x5's are spot on.
Now for CG and throws and Tx mix.
Then find a hard runway!
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Old May 18, 2011, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by edpare View Post
....Interestingly, the "Topfire" 6-channel RX looks just like a Hitec Optic 6, even has the BODA.......
Have you or anyone of your pals with an A9 tried to see if it works with the Hitec? Maybe it will and we have a source of rx for cheap foamies.

chewy
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Old May 18, 2011, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by chewytm View Post
Have you or anyone of your pals with an A9 tried to see if it works with the Hitec? Maybe it will and we have a source of rx for cheap foamies.

chewy
I will as soon as my Aurora 9 comes back from Hitec. There has to be some eletronic difference, however, because the "Topfire" uses a binding plug like a Spektrum, not the Hitec button.

For cheap foamie rx, I am using the Orange rx Spektrum style from Hobby King: $7.95 for 6 channels.
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Old May 18, 2011, 11:14 PM
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My wings are bent !



Even with a CF tube out to the wing tips, both tips are bent upwards from poor packaging. Has anyone successfully dealt with correcting the bend of EPO wings and/or horizontal stab? and how did you do it?
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Old May 19, 2011, 12:43 AM
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Monahans TX
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Originally Posted by Galand View Post
Any suggestion on the FlySky Tx mixes to suppress steering when nosewheel is up?
How's the SlowStick coming along?
Well, I mixed every possible thing I could think of but I couldn't reproduce it.
The only thing I've been able to come up with is to add a mix for the nosewheel to an unused channel slaved to the rudder, then down at the bottom of the mix menu set the three position switch to disable the mix when the switch is is up, down, or in the middle...your preference.
Once in the air, the switch can be disabled and the gear retracted.
For landing, gear down and then flip the switch back.
I know for a fact it works, it's not difficult to set up, but it's not as simple as just flipping a single switch as you need to remember about both switches together.
I'm starting to think that's what I did to begin with now that I've tried to reproduce it.

Another thing I've tinkered with is to have the gear come down with the three position switch so both functions could be combined, but no luck there.
According to the display screen, I could only get the gear to retract and go back to center
I can change it up to where the movement is centered, so it's going up and down equally, but it wouldn't be enough input to signal the gear actuator as they work best with >100% end point travel.

The stick is great! I went with the longer CF fuselage as you suggested and mounted some gigantic tundra tires (FMS P-51 tires, LOL).
I can land it on the rocky strip I use for my ag planes and it looks really impressive bouncing all over the place.
I went with the recommended brushless setup but I'm thinking about mounting a ridiculously huge motor just for giggles
Also noticed you've got HK's minimoa, got mine a few weeks ago.
Did the cooling mods and mounted one of my old V1 P-38 motors on it.
Thought the slightly larger motor would run cooler, which it did.
They're nearly identical in all aspects aside from the bell being a few mm's longer.
So far, it's got a hole drilled in the center of the spinner, 6 holes through the back plate, and one large hole between the wheel and the skid underneath the cockpit.
It's hard to spot, but when you do it looks like it was supposed to be there does a great job of evacuating heat from the fuselage.
Much better than the grommet holes I've seen on others.

Anyway, back to the P-38...
Sorry for being off-topic
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Old May 19, 2011, 12:44 PM
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Kudos to J-Power for listening

Judging from all the complaints about V1 that were addressed in V2, I want to say "Good Job" to the folks at J-Power and Banana Hobby who obviously follow this thread.

Upgraded battery: 2600 mAh, "servoless" retracts, 1200 kV motor mounted to a plexi plate, not the embedded soft plastic. Good solder joints and good connectors on the 30A ESC. Better paint job that is staying on! Pilot bust is still glued on! CF from wing root to wingtip; solid 6MM CF rod to help hold the wings on. Construction is screwed together, not glued; technically, it can still come apart for maintenance, if not transport (no way).

Dear J-Power,
If you are listening, please tell the worker who shoves the gear door hinges into the styrofoam to try harder - I had to use Zippo fluid to melt the glue enough to shove them home.
To the design engineer: back to the drawing board and redesign the nose gear. The door interferes with the closing gear and the steering servo is still binding when gear is up
To the packaging engineer: Please tape the wings and horizontal stab/elevator assembly to a piece of styrofoam to prevent warping during shipment. I wonder if you just "sandwiched" the two wings (bottoms facing eachother) with the elevator in the middle (a la Oreo) the whole thing should arrive straight.

I'd be happy to accept a new pair of wings for this awesome idea
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Old May 19, 2011, 01:48 PM
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Los Angeles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Galand View Post
It is coming together. Fully assembled with wing tips and GWS HD9x5 3b props.
Each motor TR C35-30 1100kV is pulling 20.6A and 233W WOT static, so the 9x5's are spot on.
Now for CG and throws and Tx mix.
Then find a hard runway!

Galand, are those the stock spinners and backplates? My spinner backplate holes have stripped and they just spin on the V1 threaded motor shaft, which causes the props not to be driven. I need to find another option than the standard spinners for 3 blade props and havin't found anything yet.

Please let me know where you found yours.

Thanks
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Old May 19, 2011, 02:46 PM
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Monahans TX
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Pilot...no need for the molded in hex, it'll only make the situation worse anyway.
What you need to do is tighten two nuts together with a small washer between them right behind the back plate.
That allows the back plate to be nearly identical in original spacing and not deform under torque.
It'll take some adjustment but you should be able to get the spinner near flush with the cowling.
After you've got the spacing set up, reinstall the prop and tighten it down with a nylon insert lock nut.
Don't get it too tight, it'll warp the back plate, but you do want it snug.
Shouldn't have a single loose prop related issue after that...
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