HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old May 15, 2011, 04:32 PM
Registered User
WestTexasKing's Avatar
Monahans TX
Joined Sep 2010
1,925 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by SMCLEODVT View Post
BH kit

@ Kevin
most definitely wood -
You got the V1 because you bought a kit, not the pnp/arf/whatever they call it.
They probably still have plenty of V1 kits left to sell.
WestTexasKing is offline Find More Posts by WestTexasKing
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old May 15, 2011, 05:28 PM
Dont be divided from the truth
Dangaras's Avatar
Canada, ON, Toronto
Joined Mar 2010
3,178 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by SMCLEODVT View Post
I flew this morning and WOW - ALOT more power - I believe I had the version 1 motors - unlimited vertical - which im not looking for since i fly scale - Im using MAS 9x7x3 props and 2200maH 25C 3S lipos - getting about 9 minutes of flight time - probably can squeeze out a minute more but it started to mist rain - SO as long as the foam mounts hold up im good -

Shawn
early on in the thread, the v1 plexi mounts wereidentified as troublesome. The stock motors and the plexi mounts would come loose leading to trouble. I detailed a fix with some GG and scratching the back of the plexi mounts. I got fed up of the stock motors and replaced them with HK towerpro 2409s. The performance was prety much the same, which was great for scale flying but not the best for speed or going vertical for too long.

I have just about given up on the HK e-retracts. They work great, but the struts are too short and the props touch the ground, so she is a hand launch. The mains keep breaking loose & rotating on their own (I have to epoxy after almost every flight) to the point of retracting permanently and belly landing. However, I like the drop tanks and don't want to ditch them just yet.
If I had to replace the motors I would use similar kv 35-30s, they are great performers.
Dangaras is offline Find More Posts by Dangaras
Reply With Quote
Old May 15, 2011, 05:37 PM
Registered User
edpare's Avatar
United States, CA, Carmel Valley
Joined Nov 2010
274 Posts
OK, I've ordered a BH P-38 Californid Cutie. It's done. I'm in.
I've been reading this entire thread, one post at a time, and I'm at post #1846, about half-way.

I've been writing issues down as I come across them and thought I'd summarize and try to skip ahead.

1) Retract servos may strip gears - cure by minimizing throws (before firing up mounted servos!) using my computer radio and/or replacing servos with metal geared.
2) Check to see if nosewheel steers correctly, reverse servo horn on rudder(s) if needed to fix.
3) Add nosewheel steering servo and mix with rudder only when gear is down.
4) Augment glued joints, especially boom-to-empennage and wing-to-cockpit pod.
5) Install taller wheels, if possible.
6) Use larger LiPO such as 2500 mAh, 25C.
7) Check soldered connections of ESC and crimp motor-to-ESC connectors _after_ checking rotation direction.
8) Relieve motor mount plate with a 1/4 x 1/8" dimple for the rear of the motor shaft.
9) Inspect motor mount-to-styro area, perhaps dribble some foam-safe CA down there?
10) Purchase extra nylock nuts to double-nut spinner backplate mount.


That doesn't seem so bad!

Any additions?
edpare is offline Find More Posts by edpare
Reply With Quote
Old May 15, 2011, 07:12 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2006
38 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by edpare View Post
OK, I've ordered a BH P-38 Californid Cutie. It's done. I'm in.
I've been reading this entire thread, one post at a time, and I'm at post #1846, about half-way.

I've been writing issues down as I come across them and thought I'd summarize and try to skip ahead.

1) Retract servos may strip gears - cure by minimizing throws (before firing up mounted servos!) using my computer radio and/or replacing servos with metal geared.
2) Check to see if nosewheel steers correctly, reverse servo horn on rudder(s) if needed to fix.
3) Add nosewheel steering servo and mix with rudder only when gear is down.
4) Augment glued joints, especially boom-to-empennage and wing-to-cockpit pod.
5) Install taller wheels, if possible.
6) Use larger LiPO such as 2500 mAh, 25C.
7) Check soldered connections of ESC and crimp motor-to-ESC connectors _after_ checking rotation direction.
8) Relieve motor mount plate with a 1/4 x 1/8" dimple for the rear of the motor shaft.
9) Inspect motor mount-to-styro area, perhaps dribble some foam-safe CA down there?
10) Purchase extra nylock nuts to double-nut spinner backplate mount.


That doesn't seem so bad!

Any additions?
Thanks Ed.... mine should be here in about a week...thanks for the short list of fixes BEFORE its flown !!!!!
glolectric is offline Find More Posts by glolectric
Reply With Quote
Old May 15, 2011, 08:49 PM
Registered User
WestTexasKing's Avatar
Monahans TX
Joined Sep 2010
1,925 Posts
Ed, you're probably going to get the V2 with servoless retracts.
Regardless, the servos and adjustments aren't the only thing wrong with the V1 retracts, the actual retract box itself is weak and constructed of cheap plastic.
Anything more than a greased in landing will develop serious slop in the box to the point that the gear will inevitably fail.
It's not something you can tweak to make reliable, it's going to happen eventually.
Gear doors are another concern, as they don't always streamline into a closed position, and with the gear down, they will fly open into a horizontal position that looks awful and slows the model down considerably.
A simple rubber band hot glued to the door and gear bay in front of the gear leg will hold the doors in place with only a little tweaking.

The rest of the mods you describe are good ideas and solve many of the issues out of the box.
I do recommend, if you have the mixing available, to mix differential thrust for the motors.
If you plan on using landing gear this will reduce most, if not all, of the strain on the steering servo.
I haven't toyed with it, but removing the steering servo entirely allowing for free movement castoring then using a spring to re-center the nosewheel may be the easiest option.
Not only that, rudders aren't even needed so you could reduce overall weight and complexity if you wanted by removing 3 servos.
The increase in yaw authority is right on par with a 3D capable model yet it's only as wild as you want it to be...meaning scale flight is still easily achieved.
Other benefits; both motors can be synched together or a weak motor can be matched to perform just the same as the other, efficiency may increase due to not needing rudder to counteract torque of a stronger motor, and rudder authority does not decrease or increase with airspeed.
It's not that complicated to mix or set up either.

You can modify the battery tray to accommodate a 3300mah battery with minimal cutting, but velcro will be needed to keep the battery in place. Battery hatch is best secured with anything other than those magnets, don't trust them. Best bet would be to use a canopy lock:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9218

A small access hatch underneath the cockpit following panel lines is the easiest possible way to plug servo wires to the receiver and makes life so much easier when modifications are necessary.

4S power has been tested by other members and flight performance is exemplary without overtaxing the power systems.

Check the two grub screws holding the motor to the mount, use a dab of loctite on them.

Gorilla glue will work well for the motor mount plate.

Other notable modifications are for belly landers, but strengthening the lower vertical fins may still be a good idea.

A few members have even used dual receivers and batteries in each nacelle, controlling each side independently.
This would eliminate the rat's nest of wires running through the wing into the gondola and free up space inside there perhaps for a scale cockpit mod and to hide the large gaps from the battery hatch.
Another benefit is being able to use the servo wire channel in the wing roots for a drop-in wing spar, most notably needed in the V1 as the V2 supposedly has this issue already addressed.

There's a bit more work in this plane than the average ARF/RTF, and some issues that need to be addressed before he first flight, but once it's in the air you'll find that it was all worth it
WestTexasKing is offline Find More Posts by WestTexasKing
Reply With Quote
Old May 16, 2011, 01:26 AM
Scale Foam Flyer
Cubcrazy's Avatar
United States, AR, Cabot
Joined Oct 2007
2,809 Posts
P-38 is ready to go. Install of the 3530-11's from headsuprc.com complete. Cant wait for this weekend. I need to get a good Digi Vid camera, but I spend all my money on planes. I just ordered 3 this week. At least this addiction only harms my wallet.
Cubcrazy is offline Find More Posts by Cubcrazy
RCG Plus Member
Latest blog entry: Carbon Z Cub Floats are here!!
Reply With Quote
Old May 16, 2011, 10:05 AM
Registered User
edpare's Avatar
United States, CA, Carmel Valley
Joined Nov 2010
274 Posts
V2 wheels?

Thanks WTK! All good advice. One more question I just thought of: what are the largest wheels that can be fit with minor modification on the V2?
Our field is paved and usually gusty - and I am a "prop strike" kinda flyer.
edpare is offline Find More Posts by edpare
Reply With Quote
Old May 16, 2011, 10:36 AM
Go Fly Yourself...!!
xxD-Manxx's Avatar
United States, WA, Bonney Lake
Joined Oct 2004
1,469 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by edpare View Post
Thanks WTK! All good advice. One more question I just thought of: what are the largest wheels that can be fit with minor modification on the V2?
Our field is paved and usually gusty - and I am a "prop strike" kinda flyer.
Looking at my V2 there is almost no room for larger wheels due to the bends on all the stock struts (see image below). But if your flying off of pavement the stock wheels will be fine.

I fly off of fairly short grass, cut some grass on take off and landings are successful with wheels down, without power and no taxi'n. So again I don't think you'll have any issues on pavement.

Enjoy your V2 P-38!

D-Man
xxD-Manxx is offline Find More Posts by xxD-Manxx
Reply With Quote
Old May 16, 2011, 11:08 AM
Registered User
edpare's Avatar
United States, CA, Carmel Valley
Joined Nov 2010
274 Posts
spinner size and motor heat?

I'm home with a groin muscle injury so I can't go flying and will have to ask stupid questions for a couple of days.....

I've seen two sizes of spinners on this thread: one that fairs into the engine cowl smoothly and one that is small enough to allow air to flow around it into the engine cavity. Has anyone addressed the motor cooling issue?
edpare is offline Find More Posts by edpare
Reply With Quote
Old May 16, 2011, 11:12 AM
Captain Coolite
Rob Knox's Avatar
Meringandan, QLD , Australia
Joined Jan 2011
2,768 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DFloth View Post
Looking at my V2 there is almost no room for larger wheels due to the bends on all the stock struts (see image below). But if your flying off of pavement the stock wheels will be fine.

I fly off of fairly short grass, cut some grass on take off and landings are successful with wheels down, without power and no taxi'n. So again I don't think you'll have any issues on pavement.

Enjoy your V2 P-38!

D-Man
Mate, you have got to get rid of that crap nose art which comes with the model.
The ACFT was California Cutie, NOT Californid. I got mine from Callie Graphics and they are great.
Here is the link to her website http://www.callie-graphics.com/
Rob Knox is offline Find More Posts by Rob Knox
RCG Plus Member
Latest blog entry: Spektrum Gratton Air-Fair
Reply With Quote
Old May 16, 2011, 11:14 AM
Dont be divided from the truth
Dangaras's Avatar
Canada, ON, Toronto
Joined Mar 2010
3,178 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by edpare View Post
I'm home with a groin muscle injury so I can't go flying and will have to ask stupid questions for a couple of days.....

I've seen two sizes of spinners on this thread: one that fairs into the engine cowl smoothly and one that is small enough to allow air to flow around it into the engine cavity. Has anyone addressed the motor cooling issue?
I have V1 and my cowls are flush to the spinners. The cowls have openings under the spinner that alow air in to cool the ESCs, just have to make sure they are mounted in the airflow.
Dangaras is offline Find More Posts by Dangaras
Reply With Quote
Old May 16, 2011, 05:39 PM
Registered User
edpare's Avatar
United States, CA, Carmel Valley
Joined Nov 2010
274 Posts
Re: hot motor mount screws

Has anyone tried rotating the motor base 90 degrees and screwing into the plexiglass instead of through the plexi into the softer plastic mount?
edpare is offline Find More Posts by edpare
Reply With Quote
Old May 16, 2011, 07:20 PM
Registered User
WestTexasKing's Avatar
Monahans TX
Joined Sep 2010
1,925 Posts
Ed, prop strikes can be reduced with a longer nose strut to give it that scale tail heavy squat.
That brings the nose, and subsequently the props, farther from the ground.
Larger tires all around will help too, but you may need to replace the struts in order to do so.
I've read of other members going to larger tires and never mentioned modifying the struts so it may be possible...
WestTexasKing is offline Find More Posts by WestTexasKing
Reply With Quote
Old May 17, 2011, 11:12 AM
Registered User
Joined Aug 2003
581 Posts
hi have v 1 the main gear strut can easily be rebent so it looks the same but will hold a 2.75in tire .havent even gotten to the nose gear yet,still have to get the mains
installed
mdugas is online now Find More Posts by mdugas
Reply With Quote
Old May 17, 2011, 07:49 PM
Registered User
Galand's Avatar
Long Island, NY
Joined May 2010
1,525 Posts
Removable Wing Tips, Larger Wheels and Longer Nose Strut

Quote:
Originally Posted by WestTexasKing View Post
Ed, prop strikes can be reduced with a longer nose strut to give it that scale tail heavy squat.
That brings the nose, and subsequently the props, farther from the ground.
Larger tires all around will help too, but you may need to replace the struts in order to do so.
I've read of other members going to larger tires and never mentioned modifying the struts so it may be possible...
I put 2" wheels on the mains and a 1 3/4" wheel in the nose (the stocks wheels are 1 1/4").
That way I did not have to change offset struts on the mains and the 312 servoless retracts are a drop-in, only needing appropriate fixation holes drilled in them using the stock servo-retract baseplate as a template. I used 2-56 1" bolts that screw into the stock retract attachment plastic perfectly.
The nose strut is complex and needed a total rebuilt. A longer top part to go into the trunnion of the servoless and a longer bottom offset strut to increase the prop clearance, resulting in a strut approx 3/4" longer than stock. Steering servo repositioned from flat to vertical for better leverage.
All three bays needed foam cutting to accomodate the larger diameters. Re-using the stock landing gear fixations does not allow to sink them deeper into the booms, so the wheels stick out some and you have to cut the doors. Looks a bit like a DC3.
Adjusting the doors is a PITA. I used rubbers to pull them shut on the mains. I am not sure it is worth the trouble as I guess they will rip off at the first grasslanding anyway but a big thank you to Gohmer for helping me out with some replacements.
I am going to feed the SmartBec from the starboard battery balance plug with an LVC set higher than the ESC's.
The detachable wing tips work great and the double CF spars in the stubs make the wing somewhat more rigid.
Galand is offline Find More Posts by Galand
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Discussion Banana Hobby P-51 w/2.4 GHz Tx/Rx cypherpix Electric Warbirds 9 Nov 26, 2008 03:32 PM
For Sale (NEW) F-Model P-38 Cowls Orion Pax Aircraft - Electric - Airplanes (FS/W) 13 Oct 30, 2008 07:22 PM
New Product New Phase 3 P-38 = EMI P-38 repackaged? shschon Electric Warbirds 16 Nov 25, 2007 11:57 AM
Discussion New E-flite P-38 pda4you Foamies (Kits) 1 Jan 12, 2007 11:04 PM
New Product New web shop, New product *EMI P-38 Forked Tail Devil * infinityhobby Product Announcements 60 Nov 03, 2006 06:48 PM