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Old Apr 29, 2011, 08:20 AM
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Maple Valley, WA
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Hey Larry, me and Marge will see you Saturday! Is it a 9am start? Looks like the weather is going to cooperate...
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Old Apr 29, 2011, 10:28 AM
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I know that i asked this but does anyone have a good recommendation for stock motor replacement where i can still run 1 2200mah lipo? the stock motors that came with the plane did not fit in the stock base that mounts the motor so I had to drill the bases out but the motors keep coming loose - need a good replacement

Thanks
Shawn
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Old Apr 29, 2011, 01:15 PM
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Sammamish, WA, USA
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9:00 or thereabouts. That's about when I plan on getting there.

Now, we'll just hope the field is reasonably firm and they are able to get in another mow.

Look forward to seeing you there.

Cheers.
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Old Apr 29, 2011, 01:22 PM
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Sammamish, WA, USA
Joined Jan 2010
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Originally Posted by SMCLEODVT View Post
I know that i asked this but does anyone have a good recommendation for stock motor replacement where i can still run 1 2200mah lipo? the stock motors that came with the plane did not fit in the stock base that mounts the motor so I had to drill the bases out but the motors keep coming loose - need a good replacement

Thanks
Shawn
I used a couple of BP 2810-11 motors. They definetly run better than the stock, but the performance with the stock props was not as much as I would have liked. I believe the props were holding it back as they are too flexible and not at all efficient.

I have put on a couple of MAS 10x7x3 props and will be remaidening mine after it having sat all winter. It's got a fresh coat of paint and vinyl from Callie. I just re-did the origninal CA Cutie theme as I really did like it. My original paint was crap, and I ended last season with a crash when I had a motor cut out on me. I think I hit LVC. Its tough to control these with one motor, especially when they are low and catch you off guard.

Also, with just a little foam carving, you can run two 2200s in parallel and get better flight time. I stuff them in the nose, end-to-end and it works just fine.
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Old Apr 29, 2011, 02:41 PM
Obessive Compulsive
Visalia, California
Joined Mar 2010
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Originally Posted by Lardog View Post
Dave, your numbers don't make any sense.

Watts = Volts * Amps

For your numbers, the voltage on the first comes out to 13.8v (250/18), and the second comes out to 14.4v. These are both supposed to be 3s runs?

The max voltage on a fully charged 3 cell pack is only going to be 12.6v. Under load, your doing well if it will hold over 11.5.

The last, which is supposed to be on 4s, comes out to 11.6v. If your voltage is really sagging that much, your battery is suspect.
Ist two are 3S and last one is 4S. The difference between the 3S 20 and 30C was quite significant and good enought for me to stick with 3S.
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Old Apr 29, 2011, 03:59 PM
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Monahans TX
Joined Sep 2010
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Originally Posted by SMCLEODVT View Post
I know that i asked this but does anyone have a good recommendation for stock motor replacement where i can still run 1 2200mah lipo? the stock motors that came with the plane did not fit in the stock base that mounts the motor so I had to drill the bases out but the motors keep coming loose - need a good replacement

Thanks
Shawn
What you'll probably want to do is epoxy and reinforce a new motor mount with back-up nuts to mount the motor. A new motor won't fix your motor mount issue.
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Old Apr 29, 2011, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Lardog View Post
I

Also, with just a little foam carving, you can run two 2200s in parallel and get better flight time. I stuff them in the nose, end-to-end and it works just fine.
thanks Lardog - i didnt put mine together with much thought and have a cluster in the center fuse - so no room for a 2nd lipo - ill try these motors out and see

Thanks
shawn
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Old Apr 29, 2011, 05:21 PM
Dont be divided from the truth
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Canada, ON, Toronto
Joined Mar 2010
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Originally Posted by WestTexasKing View Post
What you'll probably want to do is epoxy and reinforce a new motor mount with back-up nuts to mount the motor. A new motor won't fix your motor mount issue.
Take a look at this post, http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1483

It will give some resolution to loose motors & mounts..

Early on, there were many people posting the fixes they did on this model. The new guys to the thread sure are missing all that great detail with so many pages to read through.
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Old Apr 29, 2011, 06:04 PM
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United States, TN, Jackson
Joined Mar 2007
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Originally Posted by JohnAV8R View Post
Kevin, post 3458, I just got done building a stablemate for the P-38....I even had time to put a coat of flat clear on her!!!...

what did you use for the flat clear?
Krylon Flat Crystal Clear...Dries extremely fast...You can get it at Walmart...I also used it on the P-38 and Gravity Hobby FW-190...Just be sure to test the area first, especially with foam...On some types of foam or paint finishes this clear goes on just fine...On a rare few this clear can wrinkle the finish or damage the foam...Thin mist coats are best and this clear covers VERY well...

Kevin
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Old Apr 29, 2011, 06:14 PM
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Canada, ON, Hamilton
Joined Oct 2005
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Thanks Kevin. I'll give the Krylon a try when I'm done with the FG cloth.
How do you vent air over the battery?
I'm thinking of either a small hole in the nose or louvers in the LG nose gear door, with a vent on the bottom rear of the pod.
John
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Old Apr 29, 2011, 08:10 PM
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United States, TX, Frisco
Joined Jan 2004
963 Posts
Post Crash Analysis...

Following my post crash analysis of my P38 with upgraded engines (thanks to the onboard video), it was determined my right gear and nose gear got hung in the doors, and my right prop slipped on the hub shortly after takeoff in a climbing turn (engine run today confirmed). What resulted was instant snap to the right and inverted flat spin from 25ft. Ugh! Putting her back together again.

Questions:
What is the best way to keep the prop from slipping?

Are there any issue with not using the gear doors at all to end the sequencing issues?

Banana Hobby P38 with upgraded engines crashes (0 min 35 sec)
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Old Apr 29, 2011, 08:22 PM
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what motors? i had that issue with the stock motors and the prop slipping - BUT i used 2 nuts on the back side and tightened them together and then put the spinner on and they never slipped again
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Old Apr 29, 2011, 08:37 PM
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United States, TX, Frisco
Joined Jan 2004
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Twin Scorpion SII-3014-1220 V2 Brushless Motor with dual 3S 2200mah. It is an Orionpax limited edition mod. It really moves...
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Old Apr 29, 2011, 08:55 PM
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Long Island, NY
Joined May 2010
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Making Removable Wing Tips

With the wings glued in, the P38 will not fit in my car.
So I decided to make the wing tips “removable”.
Wings cut in two in the middle of where they sit in the nacelle, leaving the stock spar intact and thus sticking out. 1/32 plywood reinforcement patches where the boltholes will be.
Front and rear hardwood block-nuts (acting like blind-nuts), each glued onto two pieces of flat CF stock pierced through the sides of the nacelle. I glued the blocks on top of the CF supports but it would be smarter to glue them on the bottom with the CF pieces mounted flush with the wing bottom.
6mm nylon bolts, short bolts in the rear and long ones in the front, cut conical with a pencil sharpener to be self-centering (because you cannot see the hole where they have to go).
Access holes melted through the top of the nacelle for the front bolts (not terribly elegant!).
Melted a broader channel in the bottom of the inboard wing section to accommodate a larger diameter CF tube (0.236” ID) that accepts the protruding stock CF spar sliding into it from the outboard section.
I have ofcourse not crashed it yet to test it, but it feels quite solid maybe even over-engineered.
Assembly is quick and self-aligning.
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Old Apr 29, 2011, 09:25 PM
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Monahans TX
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