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Old Dec 29, 2009, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by rcmaster12 View Post
well yeah I know that. What I need help with is how/where/ how much glue to apply to what pieces. I have heard put a couple drops on each tab, but I was wondering what other methods are out there
Thats all I do.
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Old Dec 30, 2009, 12:05 AM
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Thanks Seth! So nothing in the space in between tabs? Im sure you saw my first mx2 in columbus, and it was pitiful, I'm sure you want to laugh but you didn't.
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Old Dec 30, 2009, 05:00 AM
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USA, NH, Alstead
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Some CA seems to be better than other CA. Bob Smith CA seems (to me) to be a little less brittle than others I have tried.

I do it a bit differently. I use white gorilla glue, the stuff that foams. I find this to be the best glue for gluing the end grain of the Depron. It does not work so well on the skinned Depron. So to attach the bottom fuse I wrap some sandpaper over a tongue depressor and use the narrow edge to sand away the skin of the depron on the horizontal (wing, shockie, tail) piece in line with the slots for the tabs. Then I apply the smallest possible little bead along the top of the bottom fuselage piece and then press them together. Then I mist it with water. If you use a very small bead you won't get much foaming,but there may be some coming out of the side of the joint. I take a scarp piece of Depron and push it along the side of the fuselage joint to unfoam it. You have to do this as soon as it appears.

In this assembly I do not put the GG on the tabs at all, because it doesn work well on the sides of the tabs and of course you don't want it on the tops of the tabs.

I do the same thing when attaching the top of the fuselage, except as soon as I have it pressed together I put a couple of drops of CA on each tab, press together and kick it. This holds it together while the GG cures.

This method can be a little messier than the CA method, but it is "as strong as the foam itself" and is not as susceptible to cracking. The secret is to use a very small amount of CA. A very thin film. Practice first on two pieces of scrap. This probably adds a few grams and may not be good for the competition flyer, but it makes a rugged plane.

I also tend to use GG for making repairs to a cracked part. I apply a small amount to the crack and then put painters masking tape on both sides to prevent it from foaming out.

The GG is especially good on a hand cut plane, as it fills small irregularities that may result from imperfect cutting.
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Old Dec 30, 2009, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by rcmaster12 View Post
Thanks Seth! So nothing in the space in between tabs? Im sure you saw my first mx2 in columbus, and it was pitiful, I'm sure you want to laugh but you didn't.
Nah it looked good.

Generally, I don't put anything between tabs.

That is unless I get the part completely on, and the part moves easily between the tabs, then i put a little dot in there with CA.

I don't use Gorilla glue, too heavy, and too much of a pain in the neck to deal with. I use the Bob Smith Industries (BSI) Thin Foam Safe CA.

Seth
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Old Dec 30, 2009, 11:00 AM
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Thanks U2 and Seth! That is what I will try this time around with the MX2 and Osiris. Also, should I spray kicker on the part I didn't put the glue on or spray kicker on the parts after I put them together?
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Old Dec 30, 2009, 03:53 PM
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USA, OH, Newark
Joined Sep 2001
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Awesome flying Lee! Those wiggly parts were really getting a workout (the control surfaces).

I'm very impressed with the Hobby City CA. I just got some more of it in the mail today. I've used many namy kinds of CA, and I like the HC stuff better than any I have used. It comes in a bottle with a pin in the cap, and it's cheaper than any other CA I have used.

I didn't even have to use kicker when I glued the fuse on my MX2 together.
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Old Dec 30, 2009, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by rcmaster12 View Post
Thanks U2 and Seth! That is what I will try this time around with the MX2 and Osiris. Also, should I spray kicker on the part I didn't put the glue on or spray kicker on the parts after I put them together?
I put the parts together, then add a drop where the tabs are, then kick the glue once i know its straight.

Seth
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Old Dec 30, 2009, 09:23 PM
Fast and getting faster!
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The main Parts of Dan Landis`s Mx2. Came out good!
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Old Dec 31, 2009, 11:17 AM
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Looks Good Al. Thanks!!!
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Old Jan 02, 2010, 02:57 AM
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Originally Posted by 3D-Seth View Post
I put the parts together, then add a drop where the tabs are, then kick the glue once i know its straight.

Seth
thanks Seth. Just finished my osiris and that is the method i used. I will be building my new mx2 tommorow with my girlfriend. It would be nice to see more women in the hobby....
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Old Jan 02, 2010, 10:29 PM
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Ok they are all done. Pics are on Face book
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Old Jan 02, 2010, 10:48 PM
Oly crap.. Deese ease not gud!
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They look great, Dan and Alex!
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Old Jan 03, 2010, 10:24 AM
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BTW RJ, I got a new x-5 and just for fun decided to put it on my a10 9l. no problem at all I havent had to hand flip once. I put my old x-5 on the a10 15s and it works great on it.
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Old Jan 03, 2010, 10:35 AM
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I "remaidened" my MX2 indoors last night, and all went well. It really does fly nice.

I'm using a Castle Phoenix 10 with my A10-9L, just because I have several of them (they were about the only thing available in that size back when I bought them). It works well with the A10-9L, but I have had lots of problems with the Phoenix 10 and the A10-15S. Some of them just don't play well together.
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Old Jan 03, 2010, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by KatManDEW View Post
I "remaidened" my MX2 indoors last night, and all went well. It really does fly nice.

I'm using a Castle Phoenix 10 with my A10-9L, just because I have several of them (they were about the only thing available in that size back when I bought them). It works well with the A10-9L, but I have had lots of problems with the Phoenix 10 and the A10-15S. Some of them just don't play well together.
From what I have heard from RJ, Seth and Jamie the hacker x-5 handles the a10 9l and 15s the best
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