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Old Dec 01, 2009, 05:54 PM
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United States, CA, Los Angeles
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I've taken bends and wrinkles out of 3mm printed depron with heat by using a Monokote iron and a damp smooth textured paper towel. It's important to use a paper towel with as smooth a surface as possible. Some paper towels have a very textured surface and I think it would transfer that roughness to the depron. I lay the depron on a flat surface and then put the damp paper towel on top of it. I use the iron to lightly steam press the depron. It usually takes a couple of passes to remove the wrinkle or bend. The steam seems to make the dents puff back up very close to the original thickness of the foam. I keep the iron set about medium or maybe higher and carefuly check the foam after each pass. I do it the same for warped parts, but after I iron them with the damp towel I put a flat surface on top of the warped part and let it cool. So far I've been able to take out some pretty severe warps and wrinkles. I found this method of repair on another RC Groups thread, but I don't remember which one or I'd give credit to the original poster.

Good luck

Michael
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Old Dec 01, 2009, 10:23 PM
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bighead93's Avatar
Sacramento
Joined Apr 2005
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Originally Posted by hpapilot View Post
That should work just fine! The only exception is the aileron servo, the S60 will probably get blowback, but it will work...

RJ
I am ordering my MX soon...I am going to run the S60's on the tail and plan to get one of these.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNCV6

That is the servo you use correct? Heck I think I will just order 3! Thanks in advance...great videos BTW
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Old Dec 01, 2009, 10:24 PM
Oly crap.. Deese ease not gud!
hpapilot's Avatar
USA, NC, Kernersville
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Originally Posted by bighead93 View Post
I am ordering my MX soon...I am going to run the S60's on the tail and plan to get one of these.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNCV6

That is the servo you use correct? Heck I think I will just order 3! Thanks in advance...great videos BTW
Yep that's the one. I sometimes use an S3154 on the ailerons instead, but they have the same specs, the 54 is just digital.

Thanks!
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Old Dec 01, 2009, 10:54 PM
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Sacramento
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Originally Posted by hpapilot View Post
Yep that's the one. I sometimes use an S3154 on the ailerons instead, but they have the same specs, the 54 is just digital.

Thanks!
You feel a difference? The S60's should be good on the tail...so $35 for one high performance servo sounds like a deal!
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Old Dec 02, 2009, 05:30 AM
Oly crap.. Deese ease not gud!
hpapilot's Avatar
USA, NC, Kernersville
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Originally Posted by bighead93 View Post
You feel a difference? The S60's should be good on the tail...so $35 for one high performance servo sounds like a deal!
I can feel a difference, though it isn't much. If I had the choice, I think I'd put 3114's all around instead of a 3154 and S60's on the tail. The 3114's will perform much more precisely than the S60's.
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Old Dec 02, 2009, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by hpapilot View Post
I can feel a difference, though it isn't much. If I had the choice, I think I'd put 3114's all around instead of a 3154 and S60's on the tail. The 3114's will perform much more precisely than the S60's.
Got it! Thanks for the info
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Old Dec 03, 2009, 11:32 AM
D C
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United States, TX, Bryan
Joined Jan 2009
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Hi Seth & RJ,

On the non VPP version, do you have any photos showing the bottom side of your MX-2's revealing the location of your radio installation and wiring (motor, ESC, Lipo, RX, servo wiring).

Thanks,
Don C
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Old Dec 03, 2009, 01:56 PM
Oly crap.. Deese ease not gud!
hpapilot's Avatar
USA, NC, Kernersville
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Originally Posted by D C View Post
Hi Seth & RJ,

On the non VPP version, do you have any photos showing the bottom side of your MX-2's revealing the location of your radio installation and wiring (motor, ESC, Lipo, RX, servo wiring).

Thanks,
Don C
Yep, it's already posted on this thread, but I just put it up on FG for you too.

RJ
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Old Dec 03, 2009, 04:16 PM
D C
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Thanks RJ.... You're right, I'd seen that photo and it's very informative. I was just curious as to how everyone was grouping the wires as well.

Don C
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Old Dec 08, 2009, 04:47 AM
Fast and getting faster!
Albany County, New York, United States
Joined Jul 2003
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Well finally started painting my mx2s should have one done tonight and the 2nd one done by weeks end. Would like to have the 1st one flying by the weekend too. Looks good will post pics when it's done!!
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Old Dec 08, 2009, 09:19 PM
Fast and getting faster!
Albany County, New York, United States
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Pics up Mx2 #1 Painted #2 will look just like this just trying to figure out a different color LOL!!!!
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Old Dec 09, 2009, 03:34 AM
Oly crap.. Deese ease not gud!
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USA, NC, Kernersville
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Originally Posted by FASTALJR View Post
Pics up Mx2 #1 Painted #2 will look just like this just trying to figure out a different color LOL!!!!
Sweeeeeet!!!!
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Old Dec 09, 2009, 09:26 AM
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Wyandotte Oklahoma
Joined Oct 2004
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RJ,

Are you going to make it to Wichita?

Jerry
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Old Dec 09, 2009, 10:04 AM
Oly crap.. Deese ease not gud!
hpapilot's Avatar
USA, NC, Kernersville
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Originally Posted by Jerry Combs View Post
RJ,

Are you going to make it to Wichita?

Jerry
Hey Jerry, I wish I could make it, but it's just too expensive a trip to make it this year. Maybe next time it'll work out better...
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Old Dec 12, 2009, 11:16 AM
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maukabud's Avatar
United States, OR, Deschutes
Joined Jul 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EnzoFalconi View Post
I've taken bends and wrinkles out of 3mm printed depron with heat by using a Monokote iron and a damp smooth textured paper towel. It's important to use a paper towel with as smooth a surface as possible. Some paper towels have a very textured surface and I think it would transfer that roughness to the depron. I lay the depron on a flat surface and then put the damp paper towel on top of it. I use the iron to lightly steam press the depron. It usually takes a couple of passes to remove the wrinkle or bend. The steam seems to make the dents puff back up very close to the original thickness of the foam. I keep the iron set about medium or maybe higher and carefuly check the foam after each pass. I do it the same for warped parts, but after I iron them with the damp towel I put a flat surface on top of the warped part and let it cool. So far I've been able to take out some pretty severe warps and wrinkles. I found this method of repair on another RC Groups thread, but I don't remember which one or I'd give credit to the original poster.

Good luck

Michael
I've taken the liberty of copying this gem over to "best build tips" sticky in "builders workshop", hope it's okay Michael! A magic trick this good shouldn't get lost...just tried it on a pretty beat up (creased, warped,bent, indented) Breeze Pro kit I received, crushed by the USPS monkeys. Very impressive results, made an unbuildable kit usable again. Thanks!

Sorry O/T
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