HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
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Old Feb 03, 2010, 02:56 PM
Gone Flying.
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Yep, that's unfortunately the drawback of the PDF version, but the content is all there. Word version is definitely preferable unless you have nothing that can read it.
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Old Feb 03, 2010, 03:09 PM
Team Wack-a-Mole
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Originally Posted by rcnewb View Post
Yep, that's unfortunately the drawback of the PDF version, but the content is all there. Word version is definitely preferable unless you have nothing that can read it.
I use the openoffice.org stuff from sun at home cause it's free
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Old Feb 03, 2010, 03:58 PM
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Summary

You are welcome. I'm pleased that the summary will be of value to somebody. All credit is due to the guys who posted in particular rcnewb. If possible you are best viewing the document in MS Word because the URLs are live links. Hold ALT while clicking on the link and it will open the page rather than having to do a copy&paste in your browser.
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Old Feb 03, 2010, 04:05 PM
Martin - AKA mr.sneezy
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Joined May 2004
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Originally Posted by rcnewb View Post
Hey Mel,
I won't disagree with you there, soldering can be a pain. As much as I sometimes disagree with some of the Finless Bob stuff out there, I think his soldering tips are pretty good. Whenever I solder a Deans connector, I put the Deans in a vise and work on one side at a time, then flip the deans to do the other wire.
Agreed, one side at a time in a hobby vise helps a lot.

One extra tip for the guys new to soldering heavy wires, buy the right solder iron tip for the job. Something at least as wide as the wire thickness (at the tip I mean) is needed to get quick heat buildup in the connector and wire. I use a 5mm wide wedge tip and set my iron to 400F, pre-tin the wires, and I use a little liquid flux as well. Then it goes smoothly every time.

Last extra tip, time kills the Deans connector, get it done fast as practical.
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Old Feb 03, 2010, 04:14 PM
Martin - AKA mr.sneezy
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Originally Posted by krisandmary@sb View Post
rcnewb, you are awesome thanks for the reply this definately helps. Now the hard part, waiting for my tax return.
The UBEC link RCNEWB listed is a good one, I use a few of them myself.
Avoid this one below perhaps. It doesn't stack up as being as good as the old ones.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...SBEC_for_Lipo_
This is my bench test on it.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1175777
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Old Feb 03, 2010, 04:46 PM
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Crawley, West Sussex, UK
Joined Jun 2004
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Quote:
If you know any tips to post on deans soldering, please do so.
I've not tired it, but how about binding the ESC and BEC wire to the deans terminal with fine wire (like old fashioned fuse wire) to hold it all in place while soldering. Otherwise, you just don't have enough hands to do this sort of job on your own. It's much easier if you can find an assistant to hold the wires while you hold the iron and solder (and the plug is securely clamped).

tribum, that doc is awesome, thanks for putting in the effort! I think the best way to keep and share this sort of information is a wiki page, so I've started one here:
http://www.eflightwiki.com/eflightwi...?title=HK500GT
When I get some more time another evening I'll tidy it up and try to organise it a bit better - but, being a wiki, anyone else could dive in and make a start if they wanted to help.
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Old Feb 03, 2010, 05:01 PM
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Is the swashplate and control arms on these metal or plastic? Its hard to tell by the pictures. What all is plastic on the rotor assembly? I am looking between the EXI 500 carbon edition and the HK 500GT, trying to decide which gives you more bang for your buck. Here is a link to the EXI Carbon.

http://www.xheli.com/exi500.html
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Old Feb 03, 2010, 08:34 PM
Team Wack-a-Mole
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krisandmary,
I may be wrong but I think the HK500GT is the same as the EXI 500 but the HK500 comes with fiberglass blades. comparing the Carbon EXI500 to the HK500 is not apples to apples, but the
Here is a comparison of the 2 EXI helis
http://www.mycoolheli.com/exi500.html

I have the EXI500 carbon edition but follow this thread also cause there is alot of common things about the helis since they are both made by Skya in China
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Old Feb 03, 2010, 08:48 PM
Gone Flying.
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Western NY
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Looking at the photos on xheli.com, the EXI Carbon edition has the metal tail grips (the tail grips on the 500GT are FRN, fiber-reinforced nylon), a carbon fiber frame, and more metal in the head. Overall the frame assembly on the EXI 500 (carbon) edition is a step up from the 500GT (I noticed it had an all-metal tail boom housing), but it's also nearly double the price (before shipping is factored in), without blades being included. HobbyKing charges $27.65 USD for the 500GT carbon frame on their website, which would bring the prices fairly close after all was said and done. Even though the EXI 500 does not include main rotor blades, you can buy a set of decent fiberglass 425mm blades for about $20-$25. If the carbon frame is really important to you, you might be better off going for the EXI 500 (carbon).
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Old Feb 04, 2010, 09:13 AM
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The catbon fiber frame can be a later addition, its really not that big of deal. Carbon fiber is more of a bling item in my book. After looking at the two helis it looks like replacement parts are actually a little cheaper on the HK 500. God knows I will need lots of replacement parts, pretty sure my little $100 Honeybee cp is now worth about a $1000 with all the replacement of parts I've put into it.

Is the swash plate metal on the 500GT? If not that may be a part I order with the kit. Here is a question to ponder, in theory wouldn't it be better to have some plastic parts on the rotorhead? If you crash it, the weaker plastic will shear possibly saving your metal parts from getting bent. I guess in a way the plastic would save the metal. I think I would rather just replace the weaker link plastic part than try to diagnose what the heck got bent. What do you think.
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Old Feb 04, 2010, 09:19 AM
Gone Flying.
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It's not 100% metal, it's partially metal combined with that fiber-composite material (FRN) that is quite strong and durable IMO. What's more important with a swash plate is the internals, such as the bearing and ball joint, and the ball links screwing securely into the swash assembly. On some cheaply-made heli's, the swash simply fails or has too much slop because of the size of the bearings and ball joint. The 500GT swash is perfectly fine (check out Tumbler's Youtube videos a page or two back, he's flying on the stock swash) and I wouldn't bother replacing it up-front unless it is damaged in a crash. Make sure you loctite the ball links into swash as the threads are metal. Keep the swash ball greased/lubed.
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Old Feb 04, 2010, 09:59 AM
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I just got back from trying out piro flips. Got a couple good ones and some real ugly ones that required some serious stick jamming and high stress pull outs to save and the stock swash seems fine. Only thing I am worried about is the stock arms, esecially in the sub freezing temps I am in right now.

Oh yeah, the battery died and had to do my first auto with it. She made it, but I was lucky. Those are not my forte by any means haha.

Brian

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcnewb View Post
The 500GT swash is perfectly fine (check out Tumbler's Youtube videos a page or two back, he's flying on the stock swash) and I wouldn't bother replacing it up-front unless it is damaged in a crash. Make sure you loctite the ball links into swash as the threads are metal. Keep the swash ball greased/lubed.
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Old Feb 04, 2010, 11:50 AM
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well the heli is gone. flew it a few hours ago was having a blast. Took it back and checked every bolt and made sure everything was tight. Took it out again and took off and hovered for 5-10 seconds, flipped to idle up, climbed to 20 feet and it went into the fastest piro ever and crashed. I don't see one part that survived. It was a total loss so no idea what happened. It would seem something came loose, but as I said I just got done checking every single bolt. Frigg'n sucks!
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Old Feb 04, 2010, 12:08 PM
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Looks like everything was intact on the tail when it went in so I am stumped.

1. Bolt holding the tail grip on is sheared off so the grip didn't come off.
2. The bell crank broke, but the retaining bolt is still in there tight
3. All the screws for the pitch slider are intact but the one side is broken off. That's a metal part so I don't really get how that snapped off.

I have no friggn idea. I am pissed! I can deal with it when I screw up, but I hate crashing like this and this is 2 times it has crashed when the tail went nuts on its own.

Brian
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Old Feb 04, 2010, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcnewb View Post
It's not 100% metal, it's partially metal combined with that fiber-composite material (FRN) that is quite strong and durable IMO. What's more important with a swash plate is the internals, such as the bearing and ball joint, and the ball links screwing securely into the swash assembly. On some cheaply-made heli's, the swash simply fails or has too much slop because of the size of the bearings and ball joint. The 500GT swash is perfectly fine (check out Tumbler's Youtube videos a page or two back, he's flying on the stock swash) and I wouldn't bother replacing it up-front unless it is damaged in a crash. Make sure you loctite the ball links into swash as the threads are metal. Keep the swash ball greased/lubed.
Thanks rcnewb, appreciate all the pointers.
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