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Old Dec 05, 2012, 07:37 PM
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Australia, VIC, Glen Waverley
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Originally Posted by Dejavu*Xion View Post
Received the c.f 450 landing gear in today. I like it. ( change is good) I did not have a problem with any slop in the shoulder bolts. They came with some foam tape. just placed a bit in between c.f and metal shoulder. And its a very tight fit.
Whats really nice about these landing skids it puts the tail fin up off the ground. Would be pretty hard to do any tail scrapes now. This 450 will look even better once i get some all black c.f blades & tail boom to match it all up.
Like it so much I'll buy a set for the 500 as well.
I like the colour scheme and nice canopy. How do you go with orientation from far?

Now that the geo has been pitched forward from the landing gear, would it be like landing a heli on a slope ground?
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 07:39 PM
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kansas city
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I am wondering if they will handle up to 8 cells? I read somewhere that what limits them to 6 is the built in bec. I might have to try it out on my 80a.
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evltoy View Post
I like the color scheme and nice canopy. How do you go with orientation from far?

Now that the Geo has been pitched forward from the landing gear, would it be like landing a heli on a slope ground?
That was my first thought was the forward pitch in flight. With very little time left before dark I took it out for a couple flights And i did not notice a diff. "No trimming needed". From or after take off.
As far as orientation I rarely look at the pod & boom any longer. ( not to sound vain ) But because I'm always flipping my helis around now days I'm really only concentrating on the rotor disk. ( main blades)


I just measured the tail fin from a Flatt surface. Its an even 20mm. But still lands just as nice. I'm really digging the fact of hopefully no more tail blade scrapes.

If and when the look gets old , I'll go back to the gorilla gear. For only $5 the change is kool i think.
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 07:51 PM
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Australia, VIC, Glen Waverley
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I would expect trimming would be needed. More the fact that taking off you would need to give a little neg elevator for it to hover straight up as taking off normal would now have the heli pushing forward until all skid are off the ground.

Same would go for landing... the Rear of the skids would hit the ground first then push forward for full landing. if you were to land flat on the skids you would need to be moving forward (nose down a little).
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 07:56 PM
Need More PURPLE !!
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United States, NV, Las Vegas
Joined Aug 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evltoy View Post
I would expect trimming would be needed. More the fact that taking off you would need to give a little neg elevator for it to hover straight up as taking off normal would now have the heli pushing forward until all skid are off the ground.

Same would go for landing... the Rear of the skids would hit the ground first then push forward for full landing. if you were to land flat on the skids you would need to be moving forward (nose down a little).
2 take offs, And 2 landings on/off the asphalt in my driveway and all was just fine. I did not notice a diff. That 20mm is just no wher near enough for main blades to scrape or to realy even add any neg. elevator. Once off the ground its same ol same flight.
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 2Doggs View Post
Was the solder bad on that centre motor lead? Looks like heat there and on one side of the pcb.
That's just how lead free solder looks. It's why when they went over to lead free solder they had to lower the standards for acceptable solder joints. They just couldn't meet the quality standards that had been designed around tin/lead solder with the lead free stuff.

There is a reason why lead free solder is banned in aerospace applications. It's just not as good and they don't want planes falling out of the sky because of it. It also might lead to the public asking uncomfortable questions about lead free solder's long term reliability elsewhere.
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 09:07 PM
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I still have old school lead solder at home that I use.

ok.. I just went and bought 3 YEP 80a speedies & prog card.
I was going to pay full price on 2 esc and post the buddy codes up.. Then I change my mind and used someones code and paid $16 extra for 3. I dont think I would get $12 return if I posted up my codes.
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 10:12 PM
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United States, GA, Decatur
Joined Mar 2004
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Since mine appears to be a total Hong Kong "Frankenstein", is it safe to assume that parts from EXI, HK, Align, and some others, can be used on this thing?

From what I'm hearing, as long as I replace the head with an aluminum one, and cover the holes on the flybar, I should be o.k.? Of course I need the rest of the guts (ESC, lipo (6S?), Rx I've got, gyro, servos), and I can get those a bit at a time. There's no rush to get this thing in the air, but I would like to do it right. And if you think I'd end up spending just as much building this one up as I would getting a new Align in the air, I'd like to know!

One friend told me to just get a Blade 450 3D, another said keep building this thing up cheap except where it needs to be safe. In the mean time, I've been enjoying my lil Blade MSR. Fun lil heli!
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moonbeam View Post
Since mine appears to be a total Hong Kong "Frankenstein", is it safe to assume that parts from EXI, HK, Align, and some others, can be used on this thing?

From what I'm hearing, as long as I replace the head with an aluminum one, and cover the holes on the flybar, I should be o.k.? Of course I need the rest of the guts (ESC, lipo (6S?), Rx I've got, gyro, servos), and I can get those a bit at a time. There's no rush to get this thing in the air, but I would like to do it right. And if you think I'd end up spending just as much building this one up as I would getting a new Align in the air, I'd like to know!

One friend told me to just get a Blade 450 3D, another said keep building this thing up cheap except where it needs to be safe. In the mean time, I've been enjoying my lil Blade MSR. Fun lil heli!
It's probably ok, even if the plastic parts are a bit fu gly. I mean, my last new HK 500 kit that I bought from a guy for $40 brought out the OCD in me somehow, and I got all the decent parts for it for FBL for another $350. So now I have two clone FBL 500s. Each are in perfect shape, but aren't worth half of what I put in them... I think I'm over that BTW

It depends on what you want to get out of it. (Edit) Probably in its stock form, sport flying is as good as anything else from my limited info. If you're like me, you'll upgrade a lot of parts as you see the flaws. I would plan to spend about $150 for servos and say $30 for a motor, $40 for ESC) for decent Chinese stuff.

The clones are kind of hard to balance out. I like working on helis quite a bit, but I would just get a 500ESP now after all my experience, sorry for the waffling. The initial price is always what put me off, and it still does I admit.
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Last edited by eagle777; Dec 05, 2012 at 10:47 PM.
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 10:45 PM
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Australia, VIC, Glen Waverley
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on the "safe" side of think replacing the head would be wise even if your are just hovering at low head speed.
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by evltoy View Post
on the "safe" side of think replacing the head would be wise even if your are just hovering at low head speed.
+1 That didn't look very good.
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 01:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moonbeam View Post

One friend told me to just get a Blade 450 3D, another said keep building this thing up cheap except where it needs to be safe. In the mean time, I've been enjoying my lil Blade MSR. Fun lil heli!
Also, if a 500 is your first CP heli, I think you should have a buddy box. I felt I should comment on the mSR only experience just in case? Anyway, I'm still intimidated by them

It does sound like you have all the help you need though.
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 10:17 AM
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United States, NY, New York
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moonbeam View Post
Since mine appears to be a total Hong Kong "Frankenstein", is it safe to assume that parts from EXI, HK, Align, and some others, can be used on this thing?

From what I'm hearing, as long as I replace the head with an aluminum one, and cover the holes on the flybar, I should be o.k.? Of course I need the rest of the guts (ESC, lipo (6S?), Rx I've got, gyro, servos), and I can get those a bit at a time. There's no rush to get this thing in the air, but I would like to do it right. And if you think I'd end up spending just as much building this one up as I would getting a new Align in the air, I'd like to know!

One friend told me to just get a Blade 450 3D, another said keep building this thing up cheap except where it needs to be safe. In the mean time, I've been enjoying my lil Blade MSR. Fun lil heli!
If you need a metal head I have a new flybared head I don't need since my heli is FBL. Send me a PM if interested...
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 10:40 PM
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Blah stripped another hole on my motor while adjusting it today. I managed to fix it using the following.

2x M3x10 alloy steel machine screws.

2x M3 plain stainless steel nuts.

Dremel tool.

File

I screwed the nuts onto a screw and bolted this into the dremel and ground them down to 4.75mm threaded rings (the nuts were too big to fit due to a raised part next to the screw holes inside the end of the motor.

Then I threaded the screws in from the front and with some small pliers and a lot of cursing I got the rings onto the ends of the screws. Screwd them through the nuts so that 2-3mm of the screws was poking out the other side and put some red locktite on it, Then backed the screw though the nut so that the end of the screw was flush with it. Let that set for 10 minutes then applied some red locktite to the screws and backed them out the holes till they were snug (there was enough thread left to reasonably tighten the screw) Then I cut the heads off the screws. Now the motor has two thredded mounting studs that can be fixed to the motor mount with nylock nuts.
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 10:52 PM
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Australia, VIC, Glen Waverley
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How did you manage to strip the screw in the first place?

Are you talking about stripping the Hex head of the screw or the thread?
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