Don't forget to pee first lol!

Just found out that the Gaui X5 headblock is 33.5mm wide. You should be able to use X5 grips and the X4/X5 feathering shaft on a 500 FBL head in order to use a 12mm blade root. This would cost around $40 if you used the ALZRC Gaui clone grips and would allow you to use much cheaper 525mm blades with a standard 12mm root in a stretched 500. Also the CF bottom plate for the 500 ESP would appear to give you a few extra mm on each side for the motor.

EDIT: Infinity Hobby has genuine Gaui X5 grips for the same price as the ALZRC clone grips.

Just got back from the field... All I can say is wow! The power on that turnigy typhoon 500 is unreal. I am really impressed with this helicopter. Bummed I only brought one pack for it but I can tell this thing is going to be a blast! Thanks for all the help/info/suggestions in this thread.

They are pretty cool motors. I had that motor first and was blown away by the HS. I had to drop the pinion & TC down for a safe HS. Flight time was also longer then the current turnigy motor too.

Might have to build another 500 and have that motor up and going again

I just installed an Align metal hub tail drive gear (these are for the 500 Pro but work fine with the 500) and one way bearing shaft. Also replaced the tail drive gear and pully as the Tarot one wobbles slightly, the Align one does too but to a lesser extent. Main gear still wobbled a bit so I tried replacing it with one of the Tarot spares I bought. First thing I noticed was that the screws seemed to stop more solidly when they bottomed out when installing it (i.e. harder plastic) in the one way bearing case with the spare than they did with the one that came in the kit. All wobble is now gone. Either Tarot ships cheaper gears with their kits than they sell as spares or they recently improved their maingears.

All up and down play in the maingear is also gone now, I have read that this was also present in the Align gears so it must have been fixed with the new 500 Pro tail gears.

Originally Posted by Cloudflying

Just got back from the field... All I can say is wow! The power on that turnigy typhoon 500 is unreal. I am really impressed with this helicopter. Bummed I only brought one pack for it but I can tell this thing is going to be a blast! Thanks for all the help/info/suggestions in this thread.

Is that this motor?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...00_Class_.html

How does it compare to this motor?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=28132

I've found that the 6mm M3 screws HK provides with their 500 size motors are too short to use with the provided washer and spring washer without risk of stripping the threads in the holes (doesn't grab enough threads). I ended up using a 10mm M3 and 1 split washer followed by 2 of the larger washers (spring washer between the washers and the screw head). The screw protrudes out the bottom of the hole by about 1.5mm but doesn't come anywhere near the windings.

Anyone have one of those early off-spec HK500 one-way bearing sleeves that were 8mm straight through they would be willing to sell me?

here you go
http://www.xheli.com/exi-500-147.html

Originally Posted by SidewaysLS4

Anyone have one of those early off-spec HK500 one-way bearing sleeves that were 8mm straight through they would be willing to sell me?

I was thinking that you could use those and a custom mainshaft to add a third bearing block under the maingear.

Originally Posted by eagle777

I just found out about Blade 500 X BNF heli for $900 today It seems it will be ready to order in November. It seems like a lot for a Blade.

Why on earth would you buy that when you can get a Gaui X5 FES super combo with an 1800kw 910kv Scorpion motor and a Microbeast for $899?

Originally Posted by jombo

here you go
http://www.xheli.com/exi-500-147.html

Are you sure that's 8mm straight though, or smaller to fit the stepped Align shaft? I had a EXI500CF, and that came Align style, I need the 8mm hole variety

Originally Posted by Atomic Skull

I was thinking that you could use those and a custom mainshaft to add a third bearing block under the maingear.

Yeah, that could be done too

I'm looking for another one as I'm doing another stretched T500 scaler that needs to use a Gaui mainshaft which is longer than the T500 part, but needs that 8mm hole one-way sleave to fit the main gear assy as it is unstepped

Originally Posted by SidewaysLS4

Yeah, that could be done too

I'm looking for another one as I'm doing another stretched T500 scaler that needs to use a Gaui mainshaft which is longer than the T500 part, but needs that 8mm hole one-way sleave to fit the main gear assy as it is unstepped

You're using 520mm blades on that? You can use Gaui X5 grips and a Gaui feathering shaft with a Trex 500 headblock and just use regular 520mm blades with a 12mm root. (the Gaui X5 headblock is 33.5mm wide and uses a 6mm feathering shaft).

Originally Posted by Atomic Skull

You're using 520mm blades on that? You can use Gaui X5 grips and a Gaui feathering shaft with a Trex 500 headblock and just use regular 520mm blades with a 12mm root. (the Gaui X5 headblock is 33.5mm wide and uses a 6mm feathering shaft).

550's actually, on the one I built already. Uses a Gaui FES head with a Sonix clone Gaui block (fits better on the mainshaft than the real Gaui part, lol).

A thread with it in there:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1634193

This new project is growing into a 600 size, with a 3 blade head . I need to get a Gaui mainshaft on board for proper head height...and that requires that 8mm id bearing shaft. I'd like to get a ready-made part like the origional HK500 part is, otherwise it's either drill and hope I can do that straight, or find some 8mm id 10mm od hollow shaft stock and kludge something up

This heli is my new favorite. Just ran another pack through it in the park up the street. I wish I wasnt so sick as I would be out there all day! I need to actually be more cautious. After a minute of flight I hit idle up and rolled it over and brought it about a foot off the ground. While I am glad I am able to do this, my wallet disagrees with this decision I feel like I am flying helicopters all over again.

I just received the Pro style bellcrank.



It fits the ESP slider just fine. Also you can tighten the screw without any binding without needed to add an extra washer between the bearings like with the old metal one.

The bearings need some green locktite (They are tight fitting enough that they technically don't but I prefer to do this). There was some machining swarf on the metal collar between the two bearings and they shorted me one 3x4.8x0.3 washer (noticed that Tarot does this a lot lately). I had a few extras around so this wasn't a problem, but it was annoying.

EDIT: In order to use this with an ESP slider you need to put the plastic collar in upside down (that is with the small end facing up) and then screw the ball link in from below. This is because the Pro slider doesn't have the raised part where the screw hole is for the ball and on an ESP slider it will push the ball down into bottom of the plastic insert and cause binding. I had to ream out the plastic collar slightly on the small end because it would restrict the neck of the ball link and reduced the pitch range slightly in the direction toward the hub. Once I had it working perfectly I glued the collar into the hole to keep it from coming loose. Compared to the standard bellcrank there is now very little slop in the tail.

Speaking of those washers, I finally found a higher quality replacement (the Tarot ones often have stamping burrs)

http://helidirect.com/sab-washer-a3-...00-p-25711.hdx

These are actually better quality than the copper ones Tarot uses (they appear to be stainless steel). It says 5 to a pack but I got 10 in mine. (not sure if this is a mistake or not) It says 3x4x0.5 but they look more like 3x4x0.3 to me (which is the same thickness as the Align ones)

I also found these:

http://www.infinity-hobby.com/main/p...oducts_id=6714

These are .1 thickness and could be useful for shimming the spaces between bearings to get rid of binding.