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Old May 07, 2012, 05:17 PM
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Well the 50 size nitro birds have pretty good performance. Not much added weight over a 30 but with a good amount more displacement. I was going to convert the 30 raptor to a 50 to get better performance but then I found the good deal on a used velocity 50 so I did that instead and sold the rappy. They do sell the same heli but in an electric version so if I decide to convert it later on down the road shouldn't be too difficult I wouldn't think. I'm getting the flybar version for now. I'm gonna get the flybarless thing figured out on the 500 before I go putting this unit on a 50 size ship. Those blades are just so much more expensive
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Old May 07, 2012, 05:29 PM
Never trust laughing dolphins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rishelman View Post
He also mentioned running a low throttle curve (65%..maybe). He is basically "lugging" the motor around to keep the headspeed this side of dangerous. With an 11t or 12t pinion, he can increase the throttle curve (like 85-100% perhaps), keep the headspeed in a good range, and the motor will be "happier". Running them in their more efficient range is important for good performance and longevity. The other plus is, with it geared properly, there will be more power to the blades to keep them spinning the same speed through heavy collective changes.
UUUggg...i think. That's my understanding.

Rishelman
Yes, you are correct indeed.

The idea is not really that it can not be done with 13T and a limited throttle curve using the Typhoon 500H, but you'll get a more efficient and mostly much stronger power when running a higher motor RPM and more suitable gearing.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Border Lord View Post
One thing puzzles me. In an earlier post, you said you use a 13T pinion for light 3D.
For more aggressive flying, you suggest 11t or 12t. May have this wrong, but I always thought reducing tooth count on the pinion reduces the headspeed.
Would you not want higher h/s for aggressive 3D?
Prepared to be shot down over this.

Cheers

Borderlord
Yes, reducing tooth count with reduce headspeed indeed, but the idea is to get away from using only 65%-70% of max motor RPM. This will means you'll have to increase the throttle curves to get the headspeed you had with 13T @ 65% max motor RPM. With 13T you can not run an 80% or higher throttle curve, because the headspeed will be insane and just a waste of speed with little power. For hardcore 3D you'll need to higher power, at cost of less flight time.
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Old May 08, 2012, 12:56 AM
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On these batteries Turnigy nano-tech 3300mah 6S 25~50C Lipo Pac I have managed 14minuts but then granted that is no hard flying (actually straight and level), still learning.
On Turnigy 3000mAh 6S 20C Lipo Pack I started with 8-9 min but have now setup the heli better so can get 11-12 mins. I am sure if I manage to get to some more challenging flying these times will plummet.
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Old May 08, 2012, 01:03 AM
Never trust laughing dolphins
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Yes, no doubt. When I'm flying fast circuits with stall turns and stronger pull outs in normal mode using a more variable throttle, flight time drops by about 2 to 4 minutes to a total of about 8 minutes. Still more than enough.

In fact, when I think about it I'm sure that I can beat 12 minutes of casual hover flight when converting my 500 to flybarless and perhaps also add an ESC with a solid governor mode.
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Old May 08, 2012, 08:01 AM
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Are you guys throwing your packs on a level tester the second you get finished? I know a good way to kill your lipos is to fly go back home test and say I only used 80%. That number is wrong! The only real number is one taken directly after flight.

You need something like this,
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Old May 08, 2012, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhills51 View Post
Are you guys throwing your packs on a level tester the second you get finished? I know a good way to kill your lipos is to fly go back home test and say I only used 80%. That number is wrong! The only real number is one taken directly after flight.

You need something like this,
I've heard that batteries need time to "settle" right after flying to get an accurate voltage reading. I've checked my batteries right after flying and then before putting them on the charger after I get home. I've never seen a noticeable difference personally.

That's why I just play it safe, my batteries are almost always at 22.8v when I'm done flying then once I get home I balance charge them back to storage. Then I normally charge everything up right before heading to the field.
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Old May 08, 2012, 08:20 AM
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See how much a difference you can read. lol! I have read you may have a low cell that will equalize with the others after settling. So who knows?? lol!
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Old May 08, 2012, 08:30 AM
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Of course I have also read that fully charged lipos stored will not hurt them and that the problem comes from lipos loosing power rather quickly. So Joe fully charges his pack that he gets 5mins out of last week and flies this week to 5mins. Joe just taco-ed his pack because the pack now only had 4mins of power left. Kinda makes sense? Do I trust it.....NO!
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Old May 08, 2012, 08:34 AM
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At $50 a flight, or $100 for my 600 which sees most of the action I just play it safe. I want my batteries to last as long as possible.

Before I knew how to treat lipos I would fly until the battery was dying then charge it when I got home. Sometimes it would sit for a week or so, sometimes more before flying again. Those batteries are already week and don't have much punch. One has already died completely and one swelled up while charging. Luckily I learned my lipo lessons on 450 batteries!
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Old May 08, 2012, 08:37 AM
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Same here. I baby them now. It really kills me when I do use white gloves and one dies. Just makes me want to slam my head into a wall.
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Old May 08, 2012, 11:17 AM
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Hi guys

Now I'm confused.
Always thought measuring voltage was not the best way of measuring pack capacity.
With new packs, or a new model, what I do is to fly for a set length of time, then record the amount of charge put back in.
This allows me to judge a safe flight time, leaving generally 25% capacity left in the pack.
Having said that, I am a noob at this flying business, so I find that a six minute flight is as long as my concentration lasts, and this is well within the comfort zone of my packs.
What I do do, which I am not so sure about, is charge the pack when I get home, so as to have it ready for the next session. This may be next day, or some weeks off.
Judging by these posts, this may not be the right thing to do. Never had a pack fail on me by doing this, but I am open to better ways, if someone could enlighten me.
mhills51
Seems I am doing exactly what Joe does. Where am I going wrong?

Cheers

BL
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Old May 08, 2012, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Border Lord View Post
Hi guys

Now I'm confused.
Always thought measuring voltage was not the best way of measuring pack capacity.
Generally that's correct, the best way to tell is to charge the packs after and check the mah count that is put back into the pack.

Under ideal conditions the pack would always be stored at about 3.8v until you are ready to charge it and fly. This isn't practical all the time though.
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Old May 08, 2012, 11:26 AM
Never trust laughing dolphins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhills51 View Post
Are you guys throwing your packs on a level tester the second you get finished? I know a good way to kill your lipos is to fly go back home test and say I only used 80%. That number is wrong! The only real number is one taken directly after flight.

You need something like this,
No you don't need that at all, as even that won't measure the voltage under load which is what you're probably talking about.

Thing is that a lipo will only ever be run too empty when low voltage cut kicks in forcing your helicopter to land.

If you then fly a good couple of minutes less than the time it took for low voltage to kick in, you're not going to kill your lipos. Usually this is within the 80% range.

If your lipos are properly matched with your flight style and other electronics, it's close to impossible to kill or puff lipos until they have simply reached the end of their lifespan (which in my experience can be 500+ flights).
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Old May 08, 2012, 11:29 AM
Never trust laughing dolphins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naryan View Post
Generally that's correct, the best way to tell is to charge the packs after and check the mah count that is put back into the pack.

Under ideal conditions the pack would always be stored at about 3.8v until you are ready to charge it and fly. This isn't practical all the time though.
True on both accounts especially the first, although I must say that I never discharge my lipos to such a 'storage' charge. I think it's a somewhat overrated practice when you make sure you don't over-discharge lipos under load.
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Old May 08, 2012, 11:42 AM
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Hmm, I've always just charged up the packs back to full and usually leave them, sometimes I just leave them where there at when i'm done flying. never puffed a pack, or had one die on me in about 8 years now
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