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Old Dec 29, 2009, 03:08 AM
Heli nutz
jamiep's Avatar
pakenham victoria
Joined Feb 2009
75 Posts
They look sweet ive got 1 coming soon
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Old Dec 29, 2009, 05:30 AM
Dragon68
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Malaysia
Joined Dec 2008
82 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcnewb View Post
Dragon -

Your Idle up (ST1/ST2) curve should be V-shaped, such as:

100-90-85-90-100 (this is what I use in ST1 mode)
100-95-90-95-100 (ST2 mode)

If your power setup and pinion are matched ideally for your motor, it's best to run near 100% throttle, this is where your motor will operate most efficiently. If your head speed is too high at 100%, set your ST1/ST2 curves at 90-85-75-85-90, just make sure your highest throttle points are reasonable in terms of head speed. If you get into inverted flight, it's important to have a symmetrical V-shaped throttle curve so that your negative pitch will have as much climb-out power as the curve in the positive pitch range. Just keep in mind that your heli will come down fast when you punch into negative, so you may want to try the curve out within a simulator so that you are accustomed to it and know what to expect at full throttle when you punch into negative. All of the guys who fly heli's in my AMA club who do not use governor modes set V-shaped throttle curves, I learned this from the other experienced guys in my club.

You don't want your throttle to cut in the full negative in your idle up modes, if you're hovering 20-30 feet off the ground and you punch full negative on a normal throttle curve (where point L, or full negative, is set to 0%), you'll shut your motor off which can possibly cause a crash due to soft start mode, your motor may not spin up in time to save your 500GT from hitting the ground hard. Generally the normal throttle curve is only used to start up the heli, but if your ESC has a decent soft start, you don't even need to use normal mode at all, or simply set your normal curve to start at 50 so that you don't accidentally spin down your motor when you're 10-20 feet in the air. Throttle should be cut only by the throttle hold (i.e. DX7) or a separate throttle cut switch. The point is, you don't want to throttle your heli down at *any* time during normal flight.

If a crash is inevitable in flight, you'll reduce damage by hitting the throttle cut switch so your blades won't be spinning at full RPM when the heli hits the dirt; in most crashes, you often won't have the time to react and hit your throttle kill switch, but it's a good way to reduce head damage in a crash if you kill that throttle in time. If you really want to taylor the heli to your style of flight, you can mess with pitch curves also to "soften" the pitch on the negative or positive side to control the rate at which your heli will ascend and descend at the various throttle positions set in your throttle curves. The Finless Bob videos on helifreak.com explain all of this in more detail.
rcnewb,

Thank you for great advice and nice thread ....
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Old Dec 29, 2009, 05:36 AM
usual old know-it-all
Blackpool,U.K.
Joined May 2005
1,304 Posts
Mine came today,took 9 days to the UK.
Quick look in the box seems promising,'looks' good quality.
I can take some pics.of all the parts if anyones interested?
Like the bright colours of the canopy,a coloured Trex 600 canopy alone is dearer than the whole clone kit.lol.
Good old Hobbyking...
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Old Dec 29, 2009, 05:43 AM
Dragon68
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Malaysia
Joined Dec 2008
82 Posts
Hi ..

My HK500GT ....
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Old Dec 29, 2009, 06:02 AM
usual old know-it-all
Blackpool,U.K.
Joined May 2005
1,304 Posts
great fleet Dragon,you must have good eyesight to see those smaller helis in the air.
I struggle nowadys to see my 450 size Minititan from about 50' and upwards.
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Old Dec 29, 2009, 07:48 AM
Registered User
Joined Mar 2005
1,077 Posts
Still looking for 2-11T pinions ? If anybody has a good link let me know .

Thx Tony
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Old Dec 29, 2009, 07:54 AM
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techspy's Avatar
USA, NC, Matthews
Joined Aug 2008
3,206 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by T-spin View Post
Still looking for 2-11T pinions ? If anybody has a good link let me know .

Thx Tony
Same here
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Old Dec 29, 2009, 07:57 AM
Registered User
Michael.J.P's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Lang Lang
Joined Feb 2009
130 Posts
Nice collection of heli's there dragon68
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Old Dec 29, 2009, 09:07 AM
Dragon68
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Malaysia
Joined Dec 2008
82 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by brodjack View Post
great fleet Dragon,you must have good eyesight to see those smaller helis in the air.
I struggle nowadys to see my 450 size Minititan from about 50' and upwards.
brodjack ,

Not true, i also stuggle same like you. I start this hobby from Belt CP,HK450,CopterX450 and now HK500GT, this heli gave me more confident to do FF and figure 8 but still cannot do 3D ..just normal fly .. only 3 of 5 is mine and another 2 is belonging to my in law..
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Old Dec 29, 2009, 09:10 AM
Dragon68
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Malaysia
Joined Dec 2008
82 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by r/c 3D wannabe View Post
Nice collection of heli's there dragon68
Thank you my friend ...
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Old Dec 29, 2009, 10:19 AM
Dragon68
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Malaysia
Joined Dec 2008
82 Posts
Hi ...

Test fly after replaced stock fiber glass blade to carbon fiber got from Ebay for USD 17,good balance ...but i need to sand off ~1 mm for each of them to retrofit at main blade grip ...got lucky i dont have any issue on blade tracking ...this blade is great for my HK500GT for normal fly.

HK500GT Testing with Carbon Fiber (5 min 59 sec)
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Old Dec 29, 2009, 10:22 AM
Registered User
United States, UT, Ogden
Joined Nov 2004
583 Posts
Brodjack, I would be very interested in some good close ups of as many parts or assembly's you would care to post...
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Old Dec 29, 2009, 11:59 AM
Hemet, California
kctrading's Avatar
United States, CA, Hemet
Joined Mar 2005
1,440 Posts
How reliable are the SBEC UBEC when going with 6S

Was looking at getting the 85A Turnigy SBEC/4Amp with heatsink or the 80amp Plush which is a UBEC.

Thanks,
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Old Dec 29, 2009, 12:32 PM
Gone Flying.
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Western NY
Joined Nov 2006
2,401 Posts
kc -

There are technically two types of BECs, linear and switching. "UBEC" was derived from "Ultimate BEC", one of the earlier brands of external switching BECs that hit the market years ago, so switching BECs are commonly referred to as "UBECs". Many ESC's with built-in BEC's use LINEAR BEC's, typically they only handle up to 3S (11.1V) or 2-3 servos, and therefore need to be disabled and substituted with an external switching BEC.

The Turnigy Plush 85A ESC does have a built-in switching BEC with a voltage range spec of 5V-26V, meaning it *should* take up to 6S. The built-in switching BEC can handle 3A continuous and 5A burst, that should be sufficient for the 500GT on 6S, with 4 servos, a Gyro, and Rx being powered by the built-in switching BEC. I use a CC Phoenix 80A ESC (linear BEC built-in, therefore I don't use it, so I removed the red wire from the ESC Rx plug), and wired up an external Turnigy 5A switching BEC. A 3A-5A switching BEC will be sufficient for the 500GT, and 85A should be well above your max Amp draw on 6S, so I think this will be a reliable combo.

Check the user comments on HobbyCity's product page for that 85A Turnigy to find out if there is any feedback regarding the built-in switching BEC, I only own 1 Turnigy ESC (60A Plush) so I can't comment as to their reliability, but the Turnigy 3A-5A external switching BEC's work great in combination with my CC Phoenix ESC's and are very reliable, so I would assume the same to be true for the built-in switching BECs in the Turnigy speed controllers. The advantage of the Turnigy external switching BEC's is that they have a selectable 5V/6V jumper for changing the voltage output, which is useful for certain applications.
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Last edited by ChrisWNY; Dec 29, 2009 at 12:42 PM.
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