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Old Dec 27, 2009, 10:27 PM
Hemet, California
kctrading's Avatar
United States, CA, Hemet
Joined Mar 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcnewb View Post
The Turnigy Typhoon's are in-stock as of 8:30AM EST at HC for anyone waiting to order 500GT kits based on the availability of the motor. There aren't too many in-stock though so my guess is that they will sell out in a few hours (or less).
Where do you get the pinion gears for this motor?? Also, recommend sizes for beginner on 6S?

Thanks,
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Old Dec 27, 2009, 10:35 PM
Gone Flying.
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Western NY
Joined Nov 2006
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asat -

It flies great - throw some decent servos and a reliable power setup in there, and it'll fly as well as a comparably-powered T-Rex 500. Bear in mind that it's a clone, however, and the parts aren't quite as high quality (i.e. frame parts, bearings, screws, other small "finer detail" parts). Is the T-Rex 400 $250+ better than a HK-500GT? Perhaps it's worth it for a world-class pro flier (such as J. Krause) stressing every square mm of the frame from hard 3D flying, so any weak links (such as a cheap, substandard bearing) could mean a real short flight and lots of damage, but for the other 99% of us out here, the 500GT is a solid and affordable option and will hold up just fine for potentially hundreds of flights with little maintenance, other than the wear & tear parts (belt, bearings, etc.).

Align parts go through a stricter quality control process so in most cases the Align parts will simply hold up better and longer, so I recommend going for Align parts when you need to replace various stock parts after a crash. For all of the Align parts I've ordered in the past (as either upgrades or replacements), they plugged right in and worked perfectly with no issues, I can't say the same for other off-brand aftermarket parts (such as blades). None of the upgrades that I mentioned on page 1 are absolutely necessary, just a recommendation. HC latest 500GT batches should no longer need tail rotor assembly replacements, but it's something that should be checked anyway just to be on the safe side, though you'll know right away that your tail rotor lacks thrust bearings as the tail pitch slider will take an insane amount of force to move once the head speed approaches and surpasses ~2000 RPMs.
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Old Dec 27, 2009, 10:40 PM
Gone Flying.
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Western NY
Joined Nov 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kctrading View Post
Where do you get the pinion gears for this motor?? Also, recommend sizes for beginner on 6S?

Thanks,
I purchased mine (Rhino hardened steel pinions) from helidirect.com. If you're going with the 1800kv Turnigy Typhoon motor, 12T is as large as you should go on 6S. If you read back a few pages, you'll notice that a lot of others are pursuing 11T pinions for that motor (on 6S). The HK-500GT (as well as the T-Rex 500) requires 0.6M pinions and the standard shaft size is 5mm. Here's a link to the helidirect Rhino pinions for the T-Rex 500...

http://www.helidirect.com/advanced_s...inions&x=0&y=0

Note that the stock 500GT pinion is 13T (fine for 5S on an 1800Kv motor). I use a 14T pinion which gives me ideal head speed and performance on a 1600Kv Scorpion motor.
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Old Dec 27, 2009, 11:02 PM
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Canada, QC, Saint-Basile-le-Grand
Joined Oct 2003
60 Posts
I'm assembling the 500gt and curious about something,

where the flybar rod passes through the flybar seasaw holder and the flybar cage, shouldnt there be a washer pressing on the bearing between the two latter?

Otherwise, there flybar cage has some small play with respect to the seasaw holder.

Going through Align's T-500CF manual, they don't have washers either...
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Last edited by belier; Dec 27, 2009 at 11:06 PM. Reason: add more comment.
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Old Dec 28, 2009, 12:12 AM
Have a go, it might work!
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Feb 2004
696 Posts
The three 500GT's I've assembled have had washers. They are tiny and easy to drop.

Cheers,

red
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Old Dec 28, 2009, 02:45 AM
Dragon68
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Malaysia
Joined Dec 2008
82 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark-Angel View Post
yep, the 2 inrunner motor ive linked have 5mm shaft.

i wonder how many teeths i would need on the pinion to run that 540S V-Spec!?



yes, need torque.. thats why im really interested by the V-Spec motor.
seem to be a powerfull motor.

but the outrunners are well know to have a high I/O compared to the inrunners. (but i know some outrunner have low I/O)
high I/O mean alot of wasted energy, wasting 1 amp just to turn the can is not good either imo

also, about the heat on the inrunners vs outrunners... i feel like the difference most of the time is really minimal, yea.. if you run a outrunner and after the run u put ur hand on the can you feel its barely warm, but the winding is still burning hot, on the intrunner the winding is directly on the can, so you feel the true heat.

but still agree that the outrunners are better ventilated most of the time and have tendency to run cooler, but again at the winding the difference is minimal

in any case... the typhon 500 was going low on stock so i got one before it goes out of stock.. so ive atleast a motor that will work with the heli.

in a next order ill get that vspec motor and do some tests on the bench to compare I/O, power output vs energy consumed etc between the Typhon 500and the 540S V-Spec and mb also the B36 1800kv

pretty much done with the kit build, just need to install servos, motor, gyro, etc

ive had one "major" problem with the kit, one of the flybar paddle cross threaded w/ the flybar. it didnt went in as smooth as the other paddle and when i got the metal part.. no matter what i tryed it would just want to strip/cross the threads. was about to order new paddles and flaybar when i got the idea to screw a long m3 screw inside the paddle to not damage the flybar anymore... the screw finaly when it with lot of force (metal part became burning hot) and finaly got the threads pretty good and ive been able to install the paddle.

one way bearing and mast bearings seem to be bad quality.
mast bearings are loosy. and the oneway is not so free and have some "harder spot" when i turn the gear.

other than that its pretty good so far. still have to take the tail apart to check if i have the thrust bearings in the grips. i have a set from the king2 if i dont have them.

setup so far will be

motor: Typhon 500
ESC: Mystery 80A
UBEC: Hextonic 3A
Cyclic Servo: Turnigy MG930
Tail Servo: MKS DS9670
Gyro : Mystery GY40?

not sure if 3A ubec will be enough? but if its not ill just get a 5A or more..
Hi Dark Angle,

My advice ,please avoid to used Mystery 80A(not programable type) ..we really need soft start for this bird , if not during spool, your blade will left behind and some time can bang to tail boom if the blade grip to loose ...i am using this ESC before and replaced with Hobbywing 80A ...
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Old Dec 28, 2009, 03:18 AM
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Joined Nov 2009
11 Posts
im waiting for my A-109 fuselage for my 500GT.Ill be running it with the typhoon 500 motor, 6s batt. and the plush 80 esc.

what pinion should i use considering the weight...around 4.5 pounds.

i have a set of 12 and 14t coming in soon

ive found this beauty at RC Aerodyne...at a real low price
http://www.scaleflying.com/category_s/149.htm

and it will have this paintjob on it to match our company colors (tow truck)
AGUSTA A109 RC (5 min 11 sec)
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Last edited by chopper500; Dec 28, 2009 at 03:46 AM.
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Old Dec 28, 2009, 01:36 PM
Registered User
San Diego, CA
Joined Sep 2009
295 Posts
Hi All,

Is this the missing bearing which I need to put in the tail rotor assembly? I ordered mine way back in Oct and im sure my kit would have come without it.

HK-500GT Thrust Bearing 12 x 5 x 4mm (Align part # H50004) - http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...dproduct=10203

Any other tips, Thanks alot.
Suzy
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Old Dec 28, 2009, 02:08 PM
Gone Flying.
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Western NY
Joined Nov 2006
2,401 Posts
Those may be for the main blade grips and not the tail grips, I haven't measured the inner diameter of the tail rotor to be certain. If you have digital calipers, it might be best to try and measure out one of the bearings inside the tail rotor grip to determine the bearing size you'll need. The other option is to just order the alloy tail rotor grip from HobbyCity, which includes the thrust bearings. That way you'll get the bearings plus an upgraded tail rotor grip, not bad for $11.
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Old Dec 28, 2009, 10:41 PM
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United States, NJ, Manville
Joined May 2006
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Esky king 2 thrust bearings work for the HK500gt tail too....

http://www.helidirect.com/esky-balan...2cx-p-1747.hdx
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Old Dec 28, 2009, 10:58 PM
Dragon68
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Malaysia
Joined Dec 2008
82 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcnewb View Post
I purchased mine (Rhino hardened steel pinions) from helidirect.com. If you're going with the 1800kv Turnigy Typhoon motor, 12T is as large as you should go on 6S. If you read back a few pages, you'll notice that a lot of others are pursuing 11T pinions for that motor (on 6S). The HK-500GT (as well as the T-Rex 500) requires 0.6M pinions and the standard shaft size is 5mm. Here's a link to the helidirect Rhino pinions for the T-Rex 500...

http://www.helidirect.com/advanced_s...inions&x=0&y=0

Note that the stock 500GT pinion is 13T (fine for 5S on an 1800Kv motor). I use a 14T pinion which gives me ideal head speed and performance on a 1600Kv Scorpion motor.
Hi rcnewb,

i am going to set up my HK500GT using 14T, what is your Th-curve setting ...Thank you ..
Curently my set up using Hobbyking 500H 1600KV 13T pinion , i know scropion motor have better effiency than hobbyking..
Normal TH-CRV Curve 0 40 55 75 95 and Iddle 1- 0 50 70 90 100 ..

HK500GT Testing Idle up and Normal Trottle Curve (7 min 35 sec)
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Old Dec 28, 2009, 11:18 PM
Gone Flying.
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Western NY
Joined Nov 2006
2,401 Posts
Dragon -

Your Idle up (ST1/ST2) curve should be V-shaped, such as:

100-90-85-90-100 (this is what I use in ST1 mode)
100-95-90-95-100 (ST2 mode)

If your power setup and pinion are matched ideally for your motor, it's best to run near 100% throttle, this is where your motor will operate most efficiently. If your head speed is too high at 100%, set your ST1/ST2 curves at 90-85-75-85-90, just make sure your highest throttle points are reasonable in terms of head speed. If you get into inverted flight, it's important to have a symmetrical V-shaped throttle curve so that your negative pitch will have as much climb-out power as the curve in the positive pitch range. Just keep in mind that your heli will come down fast when you punch into negative, so you may want to try the curve out within a simulator so that you are accustomed to it and know what to expect at full throttle when you punch into negative. All of the guys who fly heli's in my AMA club who do not use governor modes set V-shaped throttle curves, I learned this from the other experienced guys in my club.

You don't want your throttle to cut in the full negative in your idle up modes, if you're hovering 20-30 feet off the ground and you punch full negative on a normal throttle curve (where point L, or full negative, is set to 0%), you'll shut your motor off which can possibly cause a crash due to soft start mode, your motor may not spin up in time to save your 500GT from hitting the ground hard. Generally the normal throttle curve is only used to start up the heli, but if your ESC has a decent soft start, you don't even need to use normal mode at all, or simply set your normal curve to start at 50 so that you don't accidentally spin down your motor when you're 10-20 feet in the air. Throttle should be cut only by the throttle hold (i.e. DX7) or a separate throttle cut switch. The point is, you don't want to throttle your heli down at *any* time during normal flight.

If a crash is inevitable in flight, you'll reduce damage by hitting the throttle cut switch so your blades won't be spinning at full RPM when the heli hits the dirt; in most crashes, you often won't have the time to react and hit your throttle kill switch, but it's a good way to reduce head damage in a crash if you kill that throttle in time. If you really want to taylor the heli to your style of flight, you can mess with pitch curves also to "soften" the pitch on the negative or positive side to control the rate at which your heli will ascend and descend at the various throttle positions set in your throttle curves. The Finless Bob videos on helifreak.com explain all of this in more detail.
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Last edited by ChrisWNY; Dec 28, 2009 at 11:39 PM.
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Old Dec 28, 2009, 11:24 PM
Hemet, California
kctrading's Avatar
United States, CA, Hemet
Joined Mar 2005
1,440 Posts
Will a 401B Gyro work on a HK500GT?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...dProduct=10113
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Old Dec 28, 2009, 11:25 PM
Gone Flying.
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Western NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kctrading View Post
Will a 401B Gyro work on a HK500GT?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...dProduct=10113
Absolutely. I've been using a 401B on my 500GT without issues, holds the tail great and is more than sufficient for sport flying or basic 3D. Some guys insist on the higher-end Futaba Gyro's for hard 3D, but IMO they are not $150+ better in performance compared to a 401B.
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Old Dec 29, 2009, 12:48 AM
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Canada, QC, Saint-Basile-le-Grand
Joined Oct 2003
60 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcnewb View Post
Those may be for the main blade grips and not the tail grips, I haven't measured the inner diameter of the tail rotor to be certain. If you have digital calipers, it might be best to try and measure out one of the bearings inside the tail rotor grip to determine the bearing size you'll need. The other option is to just order the alloy tail rotor grip from HobbyCity, which includes the thrust bearings. That way you'll get the bearings plus an upgraded tail rotor grip, not bad for $11.
I believe the 500gt tail thrust bearings are the same as 450 thrust bearings in the main grips. http://www.aircraft-world.com/shopexd.asp?id=5249
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