Originally Posted by mlinder

Yeah,

I will have to find someone knowledgel on this stuff. i'm just not comfortable with it. I just don't know anyone with such skill and knowledge. I took the shrink wrap off and exposed the circuit board that has the plug leads and the balance wires attached to it. I haven't the guts to pry the circuit board off the peek underneath.

Mark

Consider this...before you enter an area you are unfamilar with, this is very real. Is this one battery worth it? These lipos can be very dangerous if not handled correctly, and the fact that you askings is a good idea but is it enough? The inital flare up can be as hot as 2000 degrees, your not going to extingwish that with a blanket. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...highlight=fire

Originally Posted by mlinder

I just got back from a test hover and a little FF. I set the gain to 92 and actually got a little wag in it. I feel better now, I think. It would appear the electronics in this gyro just may be a bit diffferent than others. After all, I guess the HH/rate mode percentage is just a relative number, right?

Yes, exactly right IMHO.
If it makes you feel a bit better I'll tell you that my 500's gyro is set to only about 25% in gain in both modes. It's an intertia 860, and that's where mine seems to like to work. It did the same on my 450 heli too, low gain 'numbers'.
My HK401B gyro now on the 450 also wags at about 50% gain in both modes. So yes it's just a number, both helis hold lock quite well in flight and I fly basic aerobatics OK with them.

I'm tidying up some minor quality issues on my HK-500GT now that it's flown.
I machined up a new main shaft collar as the original wasn't holding, and stripped out one set screw anyway.

Then I also just noticed the ball in the center of the swash plate has just under 1mm of up-down play and about 1/2mm side play now.
Is it worth me getting a new one swash plate because of that, and if so HK or Align ?

Other than that I have receiver issues, so I'll be earthing out the boom to see if that stops it.
Martin

Is this one battery worth it?

The best you can hope for is to remove the damaged cell and convert it to 5s. If all the solder joints are OK, there's no chance of repairing a damaged cell unless you've got an identical spare.

Originally Posted by RobinBennett

The best you can hope for is to remove the damaged cell and convert it to 5s. If all the solder joints are OK, there's no chance of repairing a damaged cell unless you've got an identical spare.

I had a problem with a bad cell in a 5S so I purchased a 6S of the same spec and removed a cell and put it in the other one so I had two 5S packs, Still working fine, Over a year old now

I have now flown a few packs through this thing. The power is insane on 6s and the Typhoon motor. I am running the 12T pinion.

At ~50% throttle in a hover I am at 2300 rpm, in idle up at 60-65% I am at 2550. I plan on kicking it up a little bit soon. Normally, I would want the throttle to be in a higher position to get the motor in a more efficient range, but in this case, the motor is not even warm, so I don't worry about it.

The tail servo response seems to be the weakest thing about my setup right now. I am using the BMS-661DMG with the HK401B gyro. It holds well, but I have the gain very low to avoid any wag. In hard climb out the heli yaws a bit. I suspect that running the servo at 6V would help. In reality though, it is not a replacement for a fast Futaba servo!

Beware when you decide to run servos at 6V. For cyclic, it's normally pretty ok but not for gyro servo. Make sure the tail servo is rated for 6V. Futaba tail servos are mostly not rated for 6V and when run with Gyro at 6V, it fried in a few flights. I learned the hard way.

The tail servo I have is rated for 6V.

will be able to get my 500gt out again this week as i have finaly got the money to get a new battery, brought a 3000mah 5 cell to run the typhoon motor on, start on a 13 tooth pinion, set what happens, i wanna see if this fitec digital servo i have on the tail is any good, as i have only done a few hovers with this heli so far, due to nearly runing my 2 2250 3 cells.

Originally Posted by peter24

will be able to get my 500gt out again this week as i have finaly got the money to get a new battery, brought a 3000mah 5 cell to run the typhoon motor on, start on a 13 tooth pinion, set what happens, i wanna see if this fitec digital servo i have on the tail is any good, as i have only done a few hovers with this heli so far, due to nearly runing my 2 2250 3 cells.

The Fitec 9257D that is like $15 shipped from RC-fans88?

I tested this on a 450 this past week and it was crappy. The 450 was great with a JR290G but putting the Fitec on it, make it jitter and not hold well. It was as if the wipers on the pot were not holding down and vibes would make it move around or something. Maybe with a 500, it will be a different story.

Let us know how well it holds and what kind of flying you do with it.

the one i brought was from rc-fans88 it was the Fitec 9257MG Digital Servo 25g, i have only hovered with it so far, and it was really windy, it seemed to hold ok. i will get some more flights on it when my new battery turns up and see how it goes, i will onl be doing circuits, stall turns, flips,and the odd bit of backwards and inverted hovering, as thats all i can do at the minute, either way i will let you know how it goes,
btw im using a fusonic hb-d-02 servo on my 450mt and it hold excellent, for all the above,

I flipped it for the first time tonight and did come mild rolls. The tail is kicking out under heavy climbout and generally not holding well. I am forced to have the gain too low with this Bluebird servo. I might have to bite the bullet and buy the S9254...

Hey Guys,

Cool thread. I have following this for a few months now, as I bought my HK500Gt just after Christmas.

I have a CopterX tail on it and it is completed ready for it's fisrt test flight. I have spooled up and (luckily) no vibrations. The question I have is, I have not yet stripped down the tail to grease the thrust bearings. I have had a few attempts, but the bolts are extremely tight. In the past threads, it is recommended to heat it up. Do I do this by putting a soldering iron on the bolt head? or by using a small butane blow-torch on the metal tail-blade holder? I don't want to damage anything and not sure what parts to heat up.

Thanks again for all the awesome advise within this thread. It has helped me out a lot throughout the build.

Just touch the end of the bolt with a soldering iron.

Update on the tail: Today I did the Chinese weight mod. I just used a longer bolt with a bunch of washers. WOW! This mod really works. I was able to increase the gain from 25% to 38% and the tail no longer kicks out under high collective.

It was so easy, everyone should do this.

I am using the Blue Bird (hobby king) BMS-661DMG servo with the 401B gyro. It could still use a faster servo, but this now works OK.