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Old Mar 17, 2010, 11:50 AM
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Thank you for your help.I have already e-mailed to uk horizon and they told me to send it to them.Lets see.
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Originally Posted by PLMS View Post
Not to dwell on the off topic post. However I'll add that I've seen that channel loss issue on a few Spektrum receivers, and each time it was a fractured solder joint on a SMD resistor leading to the servo pins. Easy fixed only IF somebody can re-flow the joint for you.
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Old Mar 17, 2010, 11:59 AM
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Hi Mark,

Now that i have a fast servo(Fiutabe 9257)I am up to 90% and don't have any wag either. it holds just fine so I am not going to complain. Yeah usually once you get up to 75% it really starts wagging with other gyros.

Brian

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Originally Posted by mlinder View Post
Hi again Tumbler,

Weather has been a bit windy for me to do any flying, but I have hovered the HK500GT a few times with the GY48V gyro. It holds fine, but what is weird is the gain is at 84% and I still have no wag. But it holds. I haven't set the gain any higher than that. The other helis I have use Logictech 2100T's and the gain is at 72% once wag is taken out.

Isn't 84% or higher odd? I am using stock tail blades, and wondered if stiffer ones would affect the gain number

Mark
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Old Mar 17, 2010, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Tumbler View Post
Hi Mark,

Now that i have a fast servo(Fiutabe 9257)I am up to 90% and don't have any wag either. it holds just fine so I am not going to complain. Yeah usually once you get up to 75% it really starts wagging with other gyros.

Brian
Tumbler,

Thanks for your reply. I see you have a S9257 servo for the tail. I am currently using a JR DS3400G. I also own a S9257 (I REALLY don't remember how/why I have it, actually!). Do you think the JR is sufficient or would I benefit to changing to the S9257? I know I have to run a step down for the S9257 btw.

Thanks again for your help. It has been invaluable to me!

Mark
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Old Mar 17, 2010, 01:55 PM
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The speed looks a bit faster on the 9257, but the 9257 has a lot less torque. Mine holds pretty darn good so I can't complain. I am running my whole heli on 4.8volts since I don't have the step down yet. I don't notice any difference on the cyclic to be honest. Since I have a lot of throw for tighter flips, I have 70% expo on everything so everything is really softened up around center and can't do anything yet that I have needed super fast cyclic anyway I guess. Tic Tocs would probabaly be easier with faster cyclic though...those have me getting frustrated.

if you have the servo, it might be worth a shot. If you are just flying around I wouldn;t worry about it, but if you want to 3d it, then every bit helps.

I flew mine the other day through all the 3d stuff I am capable of and it flew like crap! The tail was all over the place but it would still do everything. i was stumped! Come to find out I had flipped the gyro switch and was in rate mode. Man, what a difference heading hold makes!

Brian

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Originally Posted by mlinder View Post
Tumbler,

Thanks for your reply. I see you have a S9257 servo for the tail. I am currently using a JR DS3400G. I also own a S9257 (I REALLY don't remember how/why I have it, actually!). Do you think the JR is sufficient or would I benefit to changing to the S9257? I know I have to run a step down for the S9257 btw.

Thanks again for your help. It has been invaluable to me!

Mark
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Old Mar 17, 2010, 07:06 PM
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Waterford MI
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Originally Posted by ChrisWNY View Post
One other piece of info to add - if you used any blue Loctite to lock in the paddle set screw, and any of that loctite made contact with the plastic paddle, that stuff eats through some types of plastic like you wouldn't believe. I've seen it dissolve plastic servo clips in a matter of minutes, causing the plastic to shatter and break up like hard candy. The way that paddle broke *almost* makes it appear as though Loctite may have caused the plastic to weaken and split apart once you spun up the head.
Update

Chris you are right on. The Locktite completely ate the paddles. After reading your post I conducted an experiment. I put a blob of blue locktite on the other paddle, an hour later I returned and crumbled the paddle in my fingers!

There may not be anything wrong with the paddles, be careful to only get locktite on metal parts!
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Old Mar 17, 2010, 07:20 PM
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Jon_h2:

Yep, I was fairly certain of the problem once I saw your photo (which is further proof that a photo is worth 1000 words) - the sure sign was that the paddle broke right around the set screw area. I am usually a stickler for loctiting everything in sight, but over the past couple of years I've seen countless plastic parts fail as a result, so I don't use Loctite anywhere near plastic, even if there is a metal threaded sleeve inside a plastic part, I will not risk getting Loctite on any of the plastic. You can use medium CA on the screw rather than Loctite, it will hold nearly as well once it dries, and more importantly, it won't eat or weaken the surrounding plastic parts.

I knew a guy who used blue loctite on his FunJet motor mount (the mount is 100% plastic), he apparently thought he needed to loctite metal screws threading into plastic. Well, within 5 seconds of hand launching the FunJet (I had no idea he used loctite on those screws), the motor mount blew apart in flight but I was able to get the airframe down in one piece. The Loctite had totally destroyed the pre-drilled threaded plastic portion of the mount where the screws went in, almost like sulfuric acid ate through the plastic mounting plate. The damage to the mounting plate was severe, he had to throw out the plate and order a new Funjet motor mount w/housing.
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Old Mar 17, 2010, 07:42 PM
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Waterford MI
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I am paranoid about it now. I went over the heli to try and see if I got Loctite on any other plastic parts. I am really worried I got some on a ball link inadvertently. So far I spotted some by the jesus bolt on the main gear. If that fails it won't cause me to go out of control at least; just have to auto down...

I had no idea this was such an issue, thanks for the heads up
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Old Mar 17, 2010, 07:46 PM
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Jon -

Not all types of plastic are affected, but most are, if the gear hasn't broken up or cracked on you, it might be ok. The Align gears are relatively inexpensive, so it might be a good idea to replace the main gear with the Align part before your first flight just to be safe. Put a drop of medium CA on the jesus bolt after you've tightened it down sufficiently.
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Old Mar 17, 2010, 07:47 PM
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What about using the Tamiya liquid thread lock, if my memory serves me correct when I last used it back to my car racing days it drys to leave a hardish plastic consistency. it comes out of the tube more like polystyrene or balsa cement consistency rather than the watery viscosity of blue screwlock
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Old Mar 17, 2010, 08:30 PM
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Jon.

How are you applying the loctite. I am having trouble figuring out how it got on the plastic. I screwed my paddles on with the set screws removed, then put a little loctite on the set screw(doesn;t need much) then screwed the set screw into the metal insert. It should not be touching the plastic at all unless there was gobs of loctite and it raN UNDER THE METAL INSERT i GUESS.

bRIAN

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Originally Posted by Jon h2 View Post
I haven't posted on here in years, but have been following this thread for a while and recently bought an HK500GT.

Tonight I got the assembly completed and decided to run it up on the floor without the blades. Everything was nice and smooth until the paddle launched itself across the room! It put a nice dent in my freezer.

EDIT: it appears that the loctite was the culprit. Avoid getting any on the plastic parts of the heli.




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Old Mar 17, 2010, 08:44 PM
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I had started the set screw in just barely and then put a dab on before tightening it down. I had always used liberal amounts of loctite - I don't remember but I may have spilled some onto the surrounding area.

Obviously, it was foolish to use loctite so carelessly, but I was ignorant to these issues. I knew I was using more than necessary, but never thought twice about it.
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Old Mar 17, 2010, 08:49 PM
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ahh I see. Yeah you just need to put the set screw on the end on a hex driver, then put a little on the screw, and then screw it it. It should not sqeeze out much if at all or you have to much. I learned the lesson the hard way too on a ducted fan when the mounting tabs for the fan melted and cracked and then let the fan push forward into the ducting. Impeller rubbed on the ducting and shorted the motor and esc. Expensive lesson.

Brian



Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon h2 View Post
I had started the set screw in just barely and then put a dab on before tightening it down. I had always used liberal amounts of loctite - I don't remember but I may have spilled some onto the surrounding area.

Obviously, it was foolish to use loctite so carelessly, but I was ignorant to these issues. I knew I was using more than necessary, but never thought twice about it.
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Old Mar 17, 2010, 08:55 PM
Martin - AKA mr.sneezy
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Originally Posted by ChrisWNY View Post
Jon -

Not all types of plastic are affected, but most are, if the gear hasn't broken up or cracked on you, it might be ok. The Align gears are relatively inexpensive, so it might be a good idea to replace the main gear with the Align part before your first flight just to be safe. Put a drop of medium CA on the jesus bolt after you've tightened it down sufficiently.
I think any plastics containing styrenes may be the problem, softer nylon plastics don't seem so effected (in my experience anyway). I experienced my first nasty plastic cancer from Loctitie on a motor mount on a Durafly kit. The motor just fell off the mount a week after I fitted it...

Likewise, I now use CA if I have a real loose fitting screw in plastic.
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Old Mar 17, 2010, 08:59 PM
Martin - AKA mr.sneezy
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Originally Posted by Melnic View Post
I got mine in a week or two ago, I'm finally going to test it. I ran it free spinning with my eagletree and its comming up 1720Kv so at least it matches the specs. It's physically the same size as the Turnigy Typhoon in diameter and hieght. It has a cooling fan that is machined into the outer bell. 8 poles. Hopefully, I'll get a flight out of it this weekend.
Hey do you know if the Typhoon motors are 8 poles as well, or less ?
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Old Mar 17, 2010, 09:07 PM
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Ah, that makes sense - I knew that with certain plastics Loctite didn't seem to break them down, nylon-reinforced plastics do ring a bell as not being affected. I know that newer HK heli's use all nylon-based plastics, which is probably a great idea considering that anyone with heli building/flight experience will use Loctite without hesitation to lock down all screws.

A couple of months ago, I blew away two plastic servo cases because a tiny amount of loctite got onto the plastic mounting tabs. It only takes a trace amount of Loctite to cause a lot of destruction, so even if you use conservative amounts on a set screw, for example, you may still run into problems. Just use CA if the screw is anywhere near plastic.

Brian - that's a bummer regarding your EDF unit being destroyed. I ruined some EDF's in the past because of my own stupidity, for example, never gun the throttle on an EDF hand-launch model if you have a bad hand launch, I did this and the model smacked belly-first into the ground, it shattered the spinning fan into a million pieces, embedding plastic shrapnel through the entire inside of the duct, ruining the fan and the model. I was furious...
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