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Old Mar 27, 2012, 04:55 PM
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Hi Guys, here is short short footage of my foamy toy at the best runway you can think of, Joe.

P1030270.mp4 (3 min 36 sec)
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 05:13 PM
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3:20 - Ha ha!
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 07:09 PM
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McQueeney TX
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Originally Posted by Eddie P View Post
Awesome work!! The "Wunder Hun" Work continues!! Your Hun looks way better - flat out sweet in fact - with your new scale tail pipe. Like you, my own custom tailpipe is made from plastic but my plastic was a little light - so in order to stiffen it up a little I added some wet layup glass layers inside. Are you running a thrust tube? I'm restricting my exhaust to about 85 percent FSA and that also allowed the exit to look a little more scale too.
Thanks bud, yea had to have a new tail pipe after seeing yours! I'm not doing anything else with my plane as far as the set up is concerned, I don't have a tail pipe and I'm not going to change the diameter or anything. My plane flies so well and everyone is impressed with it's speed, it looks very scale in the air. Going 8s is more than what I need really, so now I just want reliability so that I can fly it,a lot!


Quote:
A much better looking tailcone there Luke!! That makes a big difference to it visually.
What method did you use to add the engine area discolouration on the fuselage? The steps to achieve it. That is a big visual benefit for realism too, so I will have to do that at least.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...124911&page=24
Go to post #349 I think, that is basically how I did it, although I changed my application a bit on this one.

I first paint the area aluminum, then I add flat black to aluminum to make it slightly darker, then I shade the panels so they look like individual panels. Then slightly highlight the areas so they look slightly warped.

Next I use Testors Dark Blue, thin it pretty good and add it to the areas you want, it should be kind of transparent looking.

Mix the Dark Blue with Testors Dark Red to get a redish purple. Then make a border around your Blue areas.

I used Testors Flat Brown mixed with a little Insignia Yellow to highlight around the blue and purple areas, and to extend the burnt area further forward.

Hope this helps a bit!
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by silent_guru View Post
Hi All,

I have almost gathered everything I need to assemble my Hun. I need servo's and a battery. Anyone want to share a servo recommendation with me? I have some hxt900's laying around but also have some Corona's that I was gong to use in a PA AMR ultimate.

Thanks
-Jeff
HXT-900 are amazing little servos. Most of my servos in my 90mm EDFs are those. I only use metal gear servos in very large controls like the full flying stab on the F100 as well as the flaps (mainly incase I bump the surface to prevent stripping gears). Had very good service and they center very well.
Even my HTG Mig 15 has them and it is huge.
Cheers Eric
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 08:21 PM
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The smaller exhaust cone looks great Luke!
Cheers Eric
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Old Mar 27, 2012, 10:13 PM
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Australia, VIC, Melbourne
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Thanks for that engine area info Luke!!!
I hope I can do it to the same result!!
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Old Mar 29, 2012, 09:15 AM
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Winston Hills, Sydney
Joined Apr 2009
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Just thought I would let you guys know that I used Ese-Kote
last night for the first time.
It went on over a painted brown paper foam A380 I'm building.
Gave the modal an nice hard gloss finish and dries really quickly.
I'm very happy with it and think I'll be using it over glass cloth when I do my Hun.
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 05:25 AM
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McQueeney TX
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Thanks guys! Glad I could help with the paint Peter, good luck on your paint project, you will do fine.

Been flying my new set up all weekend and it is awesome, the fan runs so smooth now, the old motor was out of balance and had bad bearings. I'm now running a Typhoon 700-68-1200kv motor, Castle Creations Phoenix Ice 100 ESC on 8s 5000mAh packs. I downloaded the flight data and on takeoff it was producing 2830 Watts. According to the Castle Link data, when I throttled back after take off I was at 2000 watts and about 60amps for cruse, that is where I had the throttle on the pass in the video. Of course again, when you have people video tape your flying, you get mixed results, so out of all the video only one pass was usable!

I definitely feel the extra batteries on landing, takes more power when you get the nose up on final approach.

FlyFly F-100F 8S (1 min 23 sec)
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 06:14 AM
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I decided to mod the front landing gear area, to allow a pushrod steering system. But also to be much stronger than the pretty weak stock assembly. (just a few small thin ply plates as it comes).

1) Cut out the whole gear mounting area to form a rectangular 'hole'
2) Build a 'box' out of 2.5mm ply - with the base plate (inside the plane area) a double layer, so it is 5mm. But that 2 layers is also "epoxy bonded ply" so it is even stronger.
The whole box is assembled with epoxy and ends up a very strong unit.
3) Drill holes for 'mini dowel pegs - these will help anchor the box to the foam with great strength.
4) Make cutouts for the leg to head rearwards (as per stock does), an opening at the front for the steering pushrod, and a hole for the servo leads to pass through into the plane. Both the retract unit and the steering servo leads will pass down that side of the retract and use the same elongated hole for the path into the fuselage. Inside the fuselage there are pre-moulded channels for the two servo leads required.

To install the box, you use 30min epoxy and coat the 4 sides (and in the plane) and insert the box and position it. You then "plug in" the mini dowels, epoxy them into the foam. They are not crucial anyway, but will give more mounting strength to the box.
I don't want the box coming out ever really, but I do want to protect the plane from the disaster that a big crash could then cause to the nose area! So I am working on a way to mount the retract so it is 'breakaway' under large stress - so it can break out before the plane or box. The 'big crash' I mean is one that makes very large nose gear contact when it is extended. eg During a landing sequence, or right after take-off.

The steering servo (not done yet) will go into the foam ahead of the retract area, sunk within the nose area so that none of it will be external. Its body will protrude inside the plane duct area, but that won't bother anything. It will have a cover that also goes rearwards enough to cover the front part of the retract box area too.
The retract leg will also have the 'gear cover' square plate affixed to it, like the real one has - as a part cover of the retract/leg area.
I have no plans for landing gear doors up front so far.

My main gear will most likely just have some 'leg activated partial doors' to cover some amount of them. I don't want to add any servos like proper doors would need. Though.... it is still a thought that I might do that. (I have some ideas for a simple enough way to possibly do that).
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 06:37 AM
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The looked and sounded great Luke!!!
I am hoping/expecting that mine will sound pretty much like that too. (CS12)

I have my F-100 power system almost all sorted and ready to go.
I tested a Turnigy XK3674-1400kv in a cut down housing CS12. Cut down to almost fit right into the stock F-100 fan mouldings. I just had to 'dremel drum sand' an extra 6mm rearwards in the fuselage. I don't intend to use a thrust tube, but I guess I will end up making one at some stage to see what it changes.

With 6S 4000mAH 30C (which is just for testing and I expect I will run 2x 6S 3000mAH 25C in parallel) it gave 3.2Kg initial thrust and settles around 2.8Kg ongoing. This is at 98 Amps and I really want it to use less, so I am hoping that balancing it properly, plus testing different Timing settings, might get it down 10Amps (or whatever).
100Amp area is not much fun really, it is a LOT and the wiring and connectors all get warm - so having lower Amps has to be better. I might need to change to larger connectors etc! 10AWG and 4mm's now, but prob move to XT150's if need be.
The dual battery setup should maintain better ongoing current, thus hopefully closer to 3.0Kg thrust ongoing. RPM is about 30,000 to 31,000 in the CS12.
I also have the XK4074-1400 which would probably drive it stronger, but might use more power too. (though it could use less too - but it weighs more)

All up flying weight so far (loading all items onto a scale) is right on 3.0Kg. But with bits and pieces to go, I am expecting 3.2Kg or 3.3Kg really.

What a LONG project!!! I have just been doing bits here and there and the weeks just roll on by.
But most likely it will be delayed a bit from tomorrow for a little while, as my Freewing Su-35 should arrive and I want to get that into the air right away! (within a week anyway - and it should be very easy to get ready).
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 09:50 AM
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Just ordered the second last kit from the HK Aus warehouse tonight.

$125 AUD shipped was just too hard to resist.

No idea what setup I'm gonna use at this stage but I do have a couple of 3000MAH 6S lipos so a parallel setup might be considered.

Also might try balancing the stock fan with a HK motor for starters.

Anyway looking forward to having a good read of all the SS threads!!!

Cheers
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 10:41 AM
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South Africa, GP, Pretoria
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dionysus View Post
Thanks guys! Glad I could help with the paint Peter, good luck on your paint project, you will do fine.

Been flying my new set up all weekend and it is awesome, the fan runs so smooth now, the old motor was out of balance and had bad bearings. I'm now running a Typhoon 700-68-1200kv motor, Castle Creations Phoenix Ice 100 ESC on 8s 5000mAh packs. I downloaded the flight data and on takeoff it was producing 2830 Watts. According to the Castle Link data, when I throttled back after take off I was at 2000 watts and about 60amps for cruse, that is where I had the throttle on the pass in the video. Of course again, when you have people video tape your flying, you get mixed results, so out of all the video only one pass was usable!

I definitely feel the extra batteries on landing, takes more power when you get the nose up on final approach.

http://youtu.be/QvgbY2-PZrc
Very nice Vid - Those HET motors are great
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 12:22 PM
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Canada, ON, Burlington
Joined Jan 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
The looked and sounded great Luke!!!
I am hoping/expecting that mine will sound pretty much like that too. (CS12)

I have my F-100 power system almost all sorted and ready to go.
I tested a Turnigy XK3674-1400kv in a cut down housing CS12. Cut down to almost fit right into the stock F-100 fan mouldings. I just had to 'dremel drum sand' an extra 6mm rearwards in the fuselage. I don't intend to use a thrust tube, but I guess I will end up making one at some stage to see what it changes.

With 6S 4000mAH 30C (which is just for testing and I expect I will run 2x 6S 3000mAH 25C in parallel) it gave 3.2Kg initial thrust and settles around 2.8Kg ongoing. This is at 98 Amps and I really want it to use less, so I am hoping that balancing it properly, plus testing different Timing settings, might get it down 10Amps (or whatever).
100Amp area is not much fun really, it is a LOT and the wiring and connectors all get warm - so having lower Amps has to be better. I might need to change to larger connectors etc! 10AWG and 4mm's now, but prob move to XT150's if need be.
The dual battery setup should maintain better ongoing current, thus hopefully closer to 3.0Kg thrust ongoing. RPM is about 30,000 to 31,000 in the CS12.
I also have the XK4074-1400 which would probably drive it stronger, but might use more power too. (though it could use less too - but it weighs more)

All up flying weight so far (loading all items onto a scale) is right on 3.0Kg. But with bits and pieces to go, I am expecting 3.2Kg or 3.3Kg really.

What a LONG project!!! I have just been doing bits here and there and the weeks just roll on by.
But most likely it will be delayed a bit from tomorrow for a little while, as my Freewing Su-35 should arrive and I want to get that into the air right away! (within a week anyway - and it should be very easy to get ready).
Peter
could you try running your XK3674-1400kv with ESC manually set to LOW timing and PWM of 8 on 6S? I understand your ESC is currently in factory default settings and you might like the results if changed. If you can post these numbers it would be appreciated.
Secondly your amp draw will go down slightly in the plane due to the less than perfect ducting.
Cheers Eric

One last question, are you using epoxy for all your glue joints with your EPO F-100? You might be surprised to know that epoxy doesn't bond well to EPO (it is fine for EPS though). There are a few types of PU glues available like "gorrilla glue" that will form a much stronger and better bond to EPO. I use "Elmers Ultimate" with good results. I have also used a Lepages version as well. The Gorilla glue version supposedly foams more which I wanted to avoid. Any PU glue will foam enough to fill and strengthen any gaps. It glued in my elevator torque rods without any need to fill the open holes left above the wire. The glue filled it up, then I sliced it off clean later with a razor blade. Much easier to remove than epoxy.
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Dionysus View Post
Been flying my new set up all weekend and it is awesome, the fan runs so smooth now, the old motor was out of balance and had bad bearings. ...........
I definitely feel the extra batteries on landing, takes more power when you get the nose up on final approach.
http://youtu.be/QvgbY2-PZrc
Simply stunning now. I like the sound - MUCH, much better with a decent motor in there. It clearly is running smoother too. The pass on 8s is right where a fighter should be. GREAT performance. I'm not surprised you felt the 5000 8s pack! Though, it didn't seem un-manageable at all. In fact it seemed really stable on final, not as floaty... but just for me that's a good thing I'm always dealing with wind and being floaty can be is a kiss of death for me at some flying sites where faster more solid wing loadings can plow through rotors on final, etc.

To think.. I was fretting over going for a 8s 4000mah vs a 8s 4200mah pack for weight concerns. High capacity mAh, all the way now

Oh - BTW how did she balance with the big packs in there? Did you have to do anything unusual to get the balance right, or cut foam, or? Where are they sitting, and what packs are you using? NICE work!!
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 04:38 PM
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McQueeney TX
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Thanks guys, glad you liked the vid, and yes Graham, I will be using those motors from now on!

Eddie, appreciate the compliment! Now you know what you have to do! lol! It lands faster but if you stay ahead of the plane it is just as easy, I just relax and concentrate and the plane will be just as honest with you at the higher weight. If you like to use lots of elevator and forget you have a throttle then you will be in trouble for sure. The stock plane will let you get away with murder practically, but at the higher weight you have to get the nose up on final and get on the throttle to bring it in.

I use one 5s 40C 5000mAh pack pushed back near the C of G and one 3s 40C 5000mAh pack sitting in front of that. No modifications and the C of G is almost right on the money, might be a hair nose heavy, but for me it's fine for now. I've been running the Hobbypartz Sky Lipo for a while now and I really like them. http://www.hobbypartz.com/77p-sl5000-5s1p-40c-5555.html
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