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Old Mar 11, 2012, 01:28 PM
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South Africa, Free State, Sasolburg
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Hi, I have also started on the build of the super sabre, and the wing angle seems all wrong. I have looked at the version Jepe is going to release and on his plane the angle of the main wing is greatly reduced. apparently it glides much better and is a lot faster with the wing mod! I am going to do the same mods to mine. What do you guys think about this mod?
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Old Mar 11, 2012, 07:30 PM
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I have emailed jepe about his mods for the last year and a half. He has never answered any of them, so I'm not sure of he's going to get around to it anytime soon But the concept is a very simple and basic one, not hard for you to do.

The airfoil on this F100 is very thick and it is at a high angle of incidence. This favors low power setups and slower flight. So if you want to fly fast, fortunately even stock, the full flying stab can be trimmed for faster flight at the cost of a few mph-km/hr on the top end (compared to a perfectly optimized high speed angle of incidence). On a stock format, the fuselage will not be ideally level at high speed but more nose down so you get a little extra drag from that. Even if you fix the high incidence you will be left with a relatively "fat" and chubby wing, and that will at the end of the day limit speed too. Anyhow, I would say go for it if you know about this sort of thing and don't mind being an experimenter. Also, you've seen a few videos of this thing does fly great at mid power levels, so you might be changing that part of the equation to favor top speed. Be sure to affix the wings at exactly the same angle of incidence however. You will need to simply add in a little extra spar material to carry the loads of the wing into the center section for high speed/high power flight but if you plan to glass the model all the modifications are very easy to make nicely as you can fill and smooth later in the finishing process.
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 12:32 AM
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Thanks, I am planning a strong 8s power system, around 3000watts, so we will see what the mods do. I am also going full glass job, but I am not sure about flaps. The elevator will be fixed with the last 50mm moving to make sure they will hold at speed! Lost my flyfly hawk that way!(elevator flutter)
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 07:43 AM
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Australia, VIC, Melbourne
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Just a few simple mods for people building up the F-100 "as is" from the kit.
Most of those prior posted repainted, fibered, glassed, F-100's look awesome! But a lot of work. One day I will go that far with a foamie.... at least the seed has been planted. lol.

I used 18g MG servos all round.

'Med' sized servoless retracts (26g?), with 3.17mm (1/8") stub axles to the stock legs. The leg is hard up to the trunion (I might get metal trunions too).
With larger retract mounting plates, from 5mm thick plywood. (landing gear stuff is not fitted fully in these pics - just sitting in there a bit askew)

Flaps cut out/added - larger than true scale so that they would at least be worth having. The flap servos are 'left-left' mounted (eg same way, not symmetrical) so as not to need a servo reverser (or mod).

Rudder added, but its aim is just to give the ability for 'linear' turns to flight, not for any ambitions of knife-edge etc! "Proper" linear flight paths are faster than side-slipping yank and bank... and look nicer.

Elevator servos rotated to be vertical instead of horizontal, so the pushrods can be totally free from possible interference. They will use 2mm pushrods. The ply plates for them have not been added in these pics.
The elevator control arms are not cut down to final length yet. Also note the far longer elevator "L rods", which I remade out of 3.17mm piano wire - so they go further into the elevator, and also a longer L bend arm.
Firstly because I was missing a number of parts with the kit, including those, but also because even looking at the stock cut-outs suggested it was all way too weakly implemented to be reliable and safe!!
The elevator in-board ends have 2mm ply plates on them, and the fuselage will have teflon plate that the elevators can run right against. So the elevators will be very solid devices.

All servos are 'screw in'. eg the wing ones and rudder, via covering plates that screw into mounted lugs. The elevators using the standard servo screw method each into their ply plate. Though changing wiring on the elevator servos will be fun if ever required!

The ESC has a new mount ahead of the EDF. The F-100 will run a CS12 fan with 4074 motor on 6S - not fully tested yet, but should easily cruise in an aimed 40k rpm, for hopefully around 2.2Kg to 2.5Kg thrust.

Funnily I decided on all these mods before ever thinking about reading build logs. So I seemed to have re-invented the wheel in a few of them! And would have been nice to know a few before even starting the build! DOH.
.
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 10:24 AM
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United States, TX, Grand Prairie
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Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
Just a few simple mods for people building up the F-100 "as is" from the kit....
Would LOVE to see your bird take off and land with those flaps, I put flaps on mine and it was already a little nose heavy so the take offs were VERY VERY gradual.

You could up gear with the nose looking as if there's no pitch, very scale take offs.
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 07:48 PM
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United States, CA, Los Alamitos
Joined Mar 2008
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Flight pack mod

Hey all, thought I would share the mod I did to help with proper GC. When I went to the 4500 8s packs I could not get the CG where I wanted it, even with the packs pushed as far back as possible with the stock airframe. I also wanted to add a receiver flightpack instead of relying on the BEC (Even thought this has worked great). I found room on the fuselage belly behid the wing to make a battery compartment. Now I can fly the 4500 8s all the way back or the 3300 8s with a foam spacer block behind them. Now I only wish I had a rudder to help with crosswinds...
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 10:34 PM
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Australia, QLD, King Scrub
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Thanks
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 07:21 PM
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McQueeney TX
Joined Oct 2005
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Quote:
Awesome detail video. Appreciate the walk through. By the way, are you using a DIY-RC mini strobe beacon? I have two of those units and it seems almost identical to what you've got there. What is the LED rating you have hooked up for the beacon? Visible during the day enough to notice it while you are flying?
Thanks Eddie, I'm using the lights from the Wingspan Models web site, forgot who makes it. You can see it in the air if say the top of the plane is in a shadow and the light blinks. Of course on a cloudy day you can see them better.

Quote:
just whatched the vids ...man that flies light for all the detail you have on it ...perfect landing and great vids! ...is there anything you dont do well? you are a true craftsman
I don't do everything well, just most things! lol! Just kidding, this plane makes me look good, it is really a good flyer. I am pleasantly surprised that it handles the detail very well, but I did use my ultra light weight glassing method, so that helped.

Quote:
'D". Did you mount the gear closer to the centreline? To get the wheels so far into the centre body area. I haven't seen well enough but it seems they could be something like 30mm, or more, closer in-board than stock.
Peter, the wheels are in the stock location, I just moved the struts if you know what I mean. On the stock plane the wheels are mounted inward, all I did was moved the retract mounts in and turned the wheels out, so basically they are in the same location.

Quote:
hello Dionysus
your F100 is very beautiful!

what is the final weight with 6s 4000?
Thanks Madisonmaster, I do not know the final weight, but as soon as I get a new scale I will post the numbers. By the way, your plane looks really good, great job!

I made another video with all the tanks and things mounted, I'm still having problems with the ChangeSun nose gear retract, broke my second one today. So I mounted my 3rd (different brand this time) from Hobby King, hope it holds. I'll post the link to the vid here when it's up. Here are some flight shots, the last one showing the gear as it got stuck half way down!
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 07:33 PM
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Australia, VIC, Melbourne
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That is such a great looking F-100 !!

Not totally finished, but my wheels hit the bottom of the wheel well - seeming to be about 3mm that they need to go in more. So I will try with the wheels reversed to being facing outboard also.

Your reply was a bit cryptic, but it seems to say you moved the retracts inwards, which will give that ability to enclose the wheels within the thicker fuselage centre area. I will think about that idea and maybe do it eventually.
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Dionysus View Post
Thanks Eddie, I'm using the lights from the Wingspan Models web site, forgot who makes it. You can see it in the air if say the top of the plane is in a shadow and the light blinks. Of course on a cloudy day you can see them better.



I don't do everything well, just most things! lol! Just kidding, this plane makes me look good, it is really a good flyer. I am pleasantly surprised that it handles the detail very well, but I did use my ultra light weight glassing method, so that helped.



Peter, the wheels are in the stock location, I just moved the struts if you know what I mean. On the stock plane the wheels are mounted inward, all I did was moved the retract mounts in and turned the wheels out, so basically they are in the same location.



Thanks Madisonmaster, I do not know the final weight, but as soon as I get a new scale I will post the numbers. By the way, your plane looks really good, great job!

I made another video with all the tanks and things mounted, I'm still having problems with the ChangeSun nose gear retract, broke my second one today. So I mounted my 3rd (different brand this time) from Hobby King, hope it holds. I'll post the link to the vid here when it's up. Here are some flight shots, the last one showing the gear as it got stuck half way down!
Seems like this bird was made to fly really light.

The nose gear is nice and other than robart I don't know who makes another one.

The robart one takes some fabbing to get installed, it's not plug and play
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 09:00 PM
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McQueeney TX
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Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
That is such a great looking F-100 !!

Not totally finished, but my wheels hit the bottom of the wheel well - seeming to be about 3mm that they need to go in more. So I will try with the wheels reversed to being facing outboard also.

Your reply was a bit cryptic, but it seems to say you moved the retracts inwards, which will give that ability to enclose the wheels within the thicker fuselage centre area. I will think about that idea and maybe do it eventually.
Thanks Peter, sorry though about being cryptic. You are correct, I just moved the retracts in and turned the wheels out. Maybe some pictures will help to clarify.
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 09:07 PM
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McQueeney TX
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Originally Posted by erh7771 View Post
Seems like this bird was made to fly really light.

The nose gear is nice and other than robart I don't know who makes another one.

The robart one takes some fabbing to get installed, it's not plug and play
Well all I can say is that the ChangeSun nose gear failed in flight after take off! So it was not even subjected to any stress whatsoever. I had two do the same thing, the last one failed on the first flight before I landed also. I'm using the Hobby King black electric retracts now, the mains have held up great (Hobby King), so we will see how the nose retract does. We are in for some bad windy weather for the rest of the week and even through the weekend, so not sure when I'll be able to fly her again.

I changed rotors on my ChangeSun 12 blade and bench ran it until I got it as balanced as I could, it seems to run better now.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rEaPhbsGnYg
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 09:28 PM
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Thanks for the pics! Yeah, I see that the wheel track (the spread) could end up very close to the same as original when the wheels are outboard. Nice.

A great video too!

For your front retract - I assume the trunion pulled past the drive 'block' in the retract. Once it is worn a bit it happens easier next time. Did you look at fitting metal a trunion there? Check out PW-RC as he sells them for about $5 a pair. That should help improve things for any retract you use. (make all 3 of them metal trunions)
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 07:24 AM
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FoamJunkE's Avatar
San Antonio, TX
Joined Jul 2010
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Dionysus,

That was awesome! Great job and very nice work! Maybe I can get some pointers from you on your light glassing techinque sometime? Keep up the good work. I need to come out to Randolph Aux to fly with you guys again and check out this beautiful F100.
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 08:05 AM
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McQueeney TX
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Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
Thanks for the pics! Yeah, I see that the wheel track (the spread) could end up very close to the same as original when the wheels are outboard. Nice.

A great video too!

For your front retract - I assume the trunion pulled past the drive 'block' in the retract. Once it is worn a bit it happens easier next time. Did you look at fitting metal a trunion there? Check out PW-RC as he sells them for about $5 a pair. That should help improve things for any retract you use. (make all 3 of them metal trunions)
Pictures help, should have posted those again in the first place. If you go back to around page 17 or so, that is when I started my build with the first one and I posted a lot of info on my build.

Thanks, glad you liked the vid, tried to capture the flavor of the time!

The retracts just stop working, so I just threw them in the trash. If I do run out of options I may look into some surgury to get a reliable unit.
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