I agree with Dave. Plugging in a low mAh pack just to test out blade rotation should NOT fry the ESC. The only time that should happen is if you put in too many volts (or had the polarity of the wires crossed). I too have used low mAh packs to do testing (but not full motor runs).

Seems odd that Castle would say that.

Pat

Here is the thread I posted to Castle:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1227571

I agree with Castle's response "IF" you were doing extended motor runs at WOT. But I DON'T think it would happen as you described after only a few seconds.

Only other thing I can think of is to ensure that when you put on the extensions to the ESC, that you wired it correctly (pos to pos and neg to neg). But if it armed correctly, then that probably rules out cross wiring.

Pat

Originally Posted by kc135boomer

POOF! The esc flashed, fire and yellow smoke came out and once again I am not flight ready.

I just noticed you said AGAIN, and it was when you applied power to see which direction the motor was turning. Perhaps the motor may be the problem? Do you have another motor you can hook up to this to test with?
I was just looking at your pics again and the polarity all seems good. I did notice you have the 3 motor wires tied together. were the motor bullet connectors tied tightly together and was there any chance of a short there? I like some space there and even putting some shrink tube over 2 of the completed connections can be helpful

Originally Posted by davecrash

I
connectors tied tightly together and was there any chance of a short there? I like some space there and even putting some shrink tube over 2 of the completed connections can be helpful

If tucking the esc behind the motor I usually shrink tube all three connectors. Helps to make sure they won't come un-plugged in flight.

Hey Dio you still out there lurking and waiting for some decent weather? Haven't heard anything about that gorgeous bird in a few days now.

opps......

I say it was the long battery leads - period.

You have 14" extentions plus the length of the esc and battery wires. Makes for one long wire. In fact anything over 12" total length should have extra capaciters installed.

With the larger airplanes and systems there were a lot of failures untill some of us started installing extra caps. The problems have since almost completely disappeared. The extra caps help arrest the ripple current and protect the ESC. if the caps on the esc become polerized or damaged - it takes nothing to fry the rest of the esc.

Tam had many problems as did some others with the larger Byron and yellow planes as extended batt leads are a nessecity. After installing caps - there have been no more fried esc's.

A lot of people have different views on this and if you do a search - you'll be reading for days. For me - the end results speak volumes. For me - I spend $30 buck at Tam's for a plug and play solution to protect my big dollar planes. Some guys can find the proper caps and wire it themselves for a couple of bucks.

I would highly recommend this fix.

http://www.tamjets.com/original/prod...roducts_id=431

Originally Posted by kc135boomer

Yes I have one and no I never got that far to check. I plugged in the motor, it armed and when I went to make sure the blades were spinning the correct way it went POOF! I contacted Castle and they said I should not have used my 1500 MAH batteries (two seperate 3 cells in series to make a 6s 1500 test pack). It was not enough power for the HET motor and fan and the ESC fried because of that fact. I know better for next time and I will send it in for repair. The next go will be with my new 3 cell, 30C, 4000 MaH batteries (2 X 3s 4000 Mah). I just did not have the deans soldiered on them yet.

No the esc fried cause CC is not infallable. They are probably made by hobbywing for them now lol

Why dident you get the HET esc to go with the rest? Im good at frying all kinds of electronics and havent done it yet with a het full package

Originally Posted by SilentHunter

No the esc fried cause CC is not infallable. They are probably made by hobbywing for them now lol

That's kinda funny, but not for the guy that just fried his ESC.
Here's what I'm running in mine on a HET rotor.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...dproduct=10015
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=6526
and I didn't do the capacitors although i have heard the long wires can be a problem.

I did not buy an HET because I had basically a new CC. Just for giggles I took a brand new Hobby King Turnigy 80A Esc and installed it to see if it would light up and to my surprise. Everything works great! Mind you I will not fly with it but at least I can hear the motor run and set the controls operate. I just love the Fly Fly electric retracts! What a great purchase!

Why wouldn't you use the Turnigy? I have a bunch of those in different sizes and never had a problem with them.

Originally Posted by kc135boomer

I did not buy an HET because I had basically a new CC. Just for giggles I took a brand new Hobby King Turnigy 80A Esc and installed it to see if it would light up and to my surprise. Everything works great! Mind you I will not fly with it but at least I can hear the motor run and set the controls operate. I just love the Fly Fly electric retracts! What a great purchase!

Yeah you cant really trust anything in the RC plane hobby to be perfect. And the big problem is it HAS to be perfect, or crash and burn. I fixed this buy flying cheaper investment planes. Its why I got out of the turbine jets.

Your 100 looks badass, I wish you much luck!

Originally Posted by kc135boomer

I did not buy an HET because I had basically a new CC. Just for giggles I took a brand new Hobby King Turnigy 80A Esc and installed it to see if it would light up and to my surprise. Everything works great! Mind you I will not fly with it but at least I can hear the motor run and set the controls operate. I just love the Fly Fly electric retracts! What a great purchase!

The Turnigy Plush 80's are better than you might think. That's what is in my F-100 as well as my 90 mm powered Sapac Gripen (both of which have long battery leads). I also have them installed in a couple of other models with reasonable length leads and haven't had any issues with any of them. Basically, if I'm not pulling more than 80 amps or running more than 6s chances are there's a Turnigy 80 in my plane. I have a couple of their 100 amp HV's in use too on 8s setups. Come to think of it, one of them replaced a Castle Ice 100 that poofed when I plugged in the battery.

I'm right there with Bill. Slowly, I have moved more and more into the Turnigy line as other, more expensive controllers have smoked. I still buy CC BECs though (some habits die hard)

Originally Posted by MYC

I'm right there with Bill. Slowly, I have moved more and more into the Turnigy line as other, more expensive controllers have smoked. I still buy CC BECs though (some habits die hard)

Same here been using their motors,ESC's and batteries for some time in planks and helis without issues.
Mike