Your so lucky to have gotten complete drawing's ..one could only hope to be so fortunate ..not to mention the skill ...very nice build..

With the drawings of this tug is a long story, and i belive there are about 9 or 10 years since i kept in my hand the lines for ZIMBRUL class but i have succeed to copy some about 3 years ago. This summer i have copyied them all .
Yes, working after shipyard drawings is great but belive me, i have found some mistakes in this also when compared with photos of real ship.

They may not be mistake's ..they may well be re-vision's ..often to save a few bucks ,,or make a slight improvement...things can get changed on the shop floor ..

You are perfectly right. Just a little "funny " story : when they have made the prototype ship and launched in 1986 at water the shipyard engineers realised that at maximum turn the kort nozzles came out of ship beam with about 80cm port or starboard and this can be dangerous when the ship needs to turn near shore or near other ships, so they have added a larger rubber guard around the tug but they haven't modified the drawings...

Hello guys!
Haven't much time to work but i have made little progress at the superstructure and also made some openable hatches on the deck.One of the superstructure's doors are also openable. I have used styrene and brass.

I'm looking forward to seeing more of this build. Would you tell me how you built the deck.
Doug

Those doors looks are nicely detailed and being able to open them looks great.

Thank you guys!
Doug-the deck is plywood 1mm thick, covered with epoxy then sanded and primed. After the surface was perfectly clear i have applied the styrene half-round rods 0.5 mm diameter to simulate the welding lines.

Thanks, that will help me with my deck as I was stuck couldn't come up with any good ideas of my own.
Doug

Back with some progress.It is a quite difficult build, as i wish to realize the pieces/fittings as much accurate as i can.
The towing hook -two days of work in styrene- is fully functional, and i hope you will understand what i have done as i cannot explain it's mechanism in english.
Also i have added some gratings on the superstructure and some doors, one of them also openable.

hook detail looks fantastic, the design would seem to put the pulling force right in the center of the tug, to make sure all the force goes exactly where they need it. Never quite seen anything like it, usually just a wire cable which will move around a fixed deck fitting.
Will it be strong enough to do real towing with it, or will you have some other arrangement for towing?
Foo

Thank's Foo.
You are right about the pulling force, when it is concerned in the center of the tug this increase the maneouvrablity of the tug when towing. The real hook is having some automatic systems to release the cable when overloading (e.g-force is more than 145tf or angle more than 22degrees). On the model i will realize this by using a servo connected through a wire at the hook (see picture).About it's strength, well i have never think of towing something big with it but i will try

Still looks fantastic though...Nice job on it! Maybe get yourself something a little lighter than most people use for towing just to be able to use the hook without overloading it and doing damage to that great boat. Besides which it would be nice to see it working (although probably a pain to get the tow back again)
I was looking at the fine detail on the arm like the handles and little sheaves for the cable release.
Foo

Very nice work with the hook. Where did you buy the portholes?

Not having much time to work but i've still managed to do something at the superstructure.
I have added the window frames for the top cabin, some strips on the funnels and also some brass railings.
Pictures...
Best regards
George

PS what do you guys use for masking the parts where you don't want the paint to reach? I have used many types of masking tape but for small pieces no one seems to be good.
-Kno3- the portholes are made at the lathe