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Old Oct 05, 2012, 07:29 AM
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Canton, Michigan USA
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Originally Posted by rcoconut View Post
Any thoughts...........

Tried to run a 5s batt, the Habu is outfitted with an Ice Castle 100a ESC & an ARC 28-48-1 Motor. The 5s batt had a full charge but during the takeoff roll when the throttle reached approx 80% the motor stopped & the ESC started beeping?? Tried to throttle up again but nothing. Unplugged the batt & replugged her in, advanced the throttle slowly & at 50% same thing?? The motor stopped & the ESC was beeping. She flew fine on the 4s batt, put the 5s away, put my other 4s in her & she flew fine?? Any ideas.
The watt meter with a 5s showed 79a & 1396w at 50% throttle when the motor stopped, yet with a 4s at full throttle she went over 90a & above 1400w with no problems at ALL throttle settings?? I was hoping to see her perform on 5s!! I'm happy with her on 4s but does this mean I have a "bigger" problem/concern somewhere that needs to be addressed?? Thanks in advance
90 Amps on 4S with that setup. Correct? What is the amp draw with a 5S? You might simply be exceeding the amp rating of the ESC.
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 09:16 AM
Formerly "Heli Copter"
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United States, CA, Watsonville
Joined Apr 2009
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Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
90 Amps on 4S with that setup. Correct? What is the amp draw with a 5S? You might simply be exceeding the amp rating of the ESC.
OOOPs!
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Last edited by Jetsom; Oct 05, 2012 at 09:18 AM. Reason: wrong post
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 09:19 AM
Formerly "Heli Copter"
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United States, CA, Watsonville
Joined Apr 2009
460 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcoconut View Post
Any thoughts...........

Tried to run a 5s batt, the Habu is outfitted with an Ice Castle 100a ESC & an ARC 28-48-1 Motor. The 5s batt had a full charge but during the takeoff roll when the throttle reached approx 80% the motor stopped & the ESC started beeping?? Tried to throttle up again but nothing. Unplugged the batt & replugged her in, advanced the throttle slowly & at 50% same thing?? The motor stopped & the ESC was beeping. She flew fine on the 4s batt, put the 5s away, put my other 4s in her & she flew fine?? Any ideas.
The watt meter with a 5s showed 79a & 1396w at 50% throttle when the motor stopped, yet with a 4s at full throttle she went over 90a & above 1400w with no problems at ALL throttle settings?? I was hoping to see her perform on 5s!! I'm happy with her on 4s but does this mean I have a "bigger" problem/concern somewhere that needs to be addressed?? Thanks in advance
That motor is 4250kv? With 4 more volts you are asking the fan to spin at an additional 17,000 rpms'. The additional amps needed for that are above what your battery can supply. Check your Castle Link log and you'll see your voltage is dropping below 3.2 per cell. That is the auto cutoff for your ESC. That ESC Amp cutoff is 150.
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 12:18 PM
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United States, CA, Calabasas
Joined Apr 2010
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Dang Ryan, up early enough?! I'm going to join the battery bandwagon too. I'm guessing you're using the batt you bought from me. If so, it's a Blue Lipo with a 30c/60c rating. The specs say it can put out 132A burst, but I have a feeling that if you were pullIng 90A on 4s, you may have come very close to that number. It would take a really strong batt (with some serious overhead amp space) to be able to manage the appetite of that arc/fan. A larger mAh rating would help (ex: 5s, 3000mah, 30c can do 90A continuous), but you're drawing more than 90A on 5s - you probably need something with a 45 C continuous rating, otherwise the battery will probably puff.
Some companies BS their super high C ratings, so I'd poke around before you invest $$$.
Best,
Josh
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 03:14 PM
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Rancho Cucamonga, CA
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Thanks for all the info/explanations!! A big help & much appreciated. (I'm outta towno on the east coast Josh, that's why such an early post, got a 3hr head start, LOL)

The 4s batts I'm using are brand new Turnigy nano-tech 3300mAh 25C to 50C rating. Looks like I need to start paying attention to those batt numbers! Obviously my fault as far as the batts go. I did receive a Turnigy Mega Meter last month so I'm paying attention to Internal Resistance & other info I NEVER looked at. The Habu came with a 4s Hyperion 3300mAh 35c & a Turnigy 3300mAh 40c. I didn't try the Hyperion 'cause the cells were not balanced & the Turnigy had the same result as the 5s batt as far as the motor stopping.

No drama though, 2 more 4s nano-tech batts are on the way from HK!! We did mess around with a Bushnell Radar Gun yesterday, 103mph with the Habu, 81mph with the PZ P-47 & an even 50mph with the ASX MiG 15 EDF using a Babbel Batt 2s 240mAh & she had her gear on.

Thanks again for the help guys!
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 03:21 PM
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Canton, Michigan USA
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Originally Posted by rcoconut View Post
Thanks for all the info/explanations!! A big help & much appreciated. (I'm outta towno on the east coast Josh, that's why such an early post, got a 3hr head start, LOL)

The 4s batts I'm using are brand new Turnigy nano-tech 3300mAh 25C to 50C rating. Looks like I need to start paying attention to those batt numbers! Obviously my fault as far as the batts go. I did receive a Turnigy Mega Meter last month so I'm paying attention to Internal Resistance & other info I NEVER looked at. The Habu came with a 4s Hyperion 3300mAh 35c & a Turnigy 3300mAh 40c. I didn't try the Hyperion 'cause the cells were not balanced & the Turnigy had the same result as the 5s batt as far as the motor stopping.

No drama though, 2 more 4s nano-tech batts are on the way from HK!! We did mess around with a Bushnell Radar Gun yesterday, 103mph with the Habu, 81mph with the PZ P-47 & an even 50mph with the ASX MiG 15 EDF using a Babbel Batt 2s 240mAh & she had her gear on.

Thanks again for the help guys!
Measure IR in your Lipos. It a better indicator of pack C rating. Lower is better.
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 03:38 PM
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Rancho Cucamonga, CA
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Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
Measure IR in your Lipos. It a better indicator of pack C rating. Lower is better.
Will do, so taking it a step further..... When do you know a batt is no good? When the IR number is crazy high?? Or when the batt no longer holds a charge? Going on almost 2yrs being a LiPo user & so far outta all my 2s & 3s batts only one is bad. The 3s shows a full 12.6v but when I put her in my Stryker after approx 1min of run time I was getting the pulsing of LVC, haven't used that batt since.
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by rcoconut View Post
Will do, so taking it a step further..... When do you know a batt is no good? When the IR number is crazy high?? Or when the batt no longer holds a charge? Going on almost 2yrs being a LiPo user & so far outta all my 2s & 3s batts only one is bad. The 3s shows a full 12.6v but when I put her in er erloadmy Stryker after approx 1min of run time I was getting the pulsing of LVC, haven't used that battered at since.
A good cell is below 3 mohms under load measured at 72 F. The higher the resistance the lower the true C rating.
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 04:22 PM
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United States, CA, Calabasas
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R,
Take a look at this: http://rcadvisor.com/turnigy-7-1-mega-meter-review As always, take things with a grain of salt, but it looks like the IR measurement of that Mega Meter might not be quite up to par.
J
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 05:17 PM
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Ok, thanks again!!!

Have a good weekend!!!
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 05:33 PM
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Canton, Michigan USA
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ESR meter

The ESR meter from Progressive RC is a proper way of measuring a pack and individual cells - the ESR meter. However, it does cost $85.
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 08:00 PM
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Canada, QC, Témiscouata-sur-le-Lac
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Finally did it!!

Habu retracts and afterburner (0 min 56 sec)
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgalexander View Post
Dang Ryan, up early enough?! I'm going to join the battery bandwagon too. I'm guessing you're using the batt you bought from me. If so, it's a Blue Lipo with a 30c/60c rating. The specs say it can put out 132A burst, but I have a feeling that if you were pullIng 90A on 4s, you may have come very close to that number. It would take a really strong batt (with some serious overhead amp space) to be able to manage the appetite of that arc/fan. A larger mAh rating would help (ex: 5s, 3000mah, 30c can do 90A continuous), but you're drawing more than 90A on 5s - you probably need something with a 45 C continuous rating, otherwise the battery will probably puff.
Some companies BS their super high C ratings, so I'd poke around before you invest $$$.
Best,
Josh
Speaking of C ratings: Can anybody say if, on the stock Habu setup (ESC too), it is safe to run a 40C 4S pack? What is the amp draw? I know on 30C 4S it's got to be around 45A. 5S 30C it's 70A. It seems like a higher C pack (like GenACE)might be an inexpensive and safe way to get more power.

Thanks
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 09:19 PM
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Very nice! How hard to install the lights...are they RC lander lights?
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 09:40 PM
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Canada, QC, Témiscouata-sur-le-Lac
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Very nice! How hard to install the lights...are they RC lander lights?
No, not RC Lander. They are much brighter but much more expensive.

Really simple to install. I used a Turnigy 20A brushed ESC that i plugged in AUX1 and mixed with throttle. Leds are Turnigy also.

ESC: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9090

The only problem with this ESC is that it can only takes 2 or 3 cell and my Habu runs on 4s. So i used a 4s male balance plug and used only 2 pins and only 3 cells out of 4. Don't forget to remove red wire from this ESC in the plug who connect in receiver.

Leds: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=8943

I made 2 turns in the tube and used only about half of the strip of leds. Then run wires in the tube and carefully taped it. They draw less than 200mA.

Sorry for my english...
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