Hi Sonny,
Can you post a few high res photos of your failed motor please? I would like to see how yours failed to prevent that from occurring on mine
Cheers,
Jim

Originally Posted by sonny1

Thank you for your offer. I am not inclined to ship a >$10 motor all the way back to China, (the time it would take to package and ship are not worth it to me); I will, however accept a replacement motor and be willing to try again. My username on your website is: "bassglider" ; the motor which failed was a 2830-13. It is your choice; replacement motor, credit, refund, whatever. I do like your connectors and accessories and will eventually order again; I will not mention the incident again, and will edit my previous post to reflect your willingness to remedy the situation.
Sonny

Originally Posted by jesolins

Hi Sonny,
Can you post a few high res photos of your failed motor please? I would like to see how yours failed to prevent that from occurring on mine
Cheers,
Jim

Hi Jim, yes I'll do that later today, stay tuned.
Sonny

Originally Posted by jesolins

Hi Sonny,
Can you post a few high res photos of your failed motor please? I would like to see how yours failed to prevent that from occurring on mine
Cheers,
Jim

Well, here is the "autopsy" of the RCTimer 2830-13 950kv Outrunner Brushless Motor. Sorry for the blurry pics; this is the best resolution my old 5mp camera can produce. After removing the motor I noticed the shaft "C" clip was still present & that the shaft was "press fit" into the rotor; no set screws visible. Notice that the shaft has an additional groove to allow reversing of the shaft. Perhaps the "quick fix" would be to apply Loctite to the shaft where it exits the rotor. When run up to full throttle the shaft simply spun itself loose, or more exactly, the rotor spun past the press-fits' ability to hold the shaft; a defect which should be addressed at the factory. The motor was drawing around 22A at the time of the failure. I would recommend smaller props with this motor, though rated at 30A continuous, at 950kv it just produces more torque with larger props than the physical abilities of the components, (I was using an 11x7; "pushing it", but it should be able to handle it). I intend to try to reassemble the motor and apply Loctite "red" to the shaft and just see what happens; I'll report back the results.

Sonny,
Look inside the bell housing at the top. All ten of the 2217-11 and 2830-13 motors I received have one allen screw. I can see that your bell housing does have the hole for the allen screw.(see your attached cropped photo) Perhaps yours was loose or missing? I always remove any screws present on all my motors no matter what they cost, then apply Lok-tite and re-install before I deem them flight-worthy. Also all my shafts were so tight that the bell would never have come off under any kind of prop power. Were you using the supplied prop adapter too? Very strange that the bell housing would have come off like that as the strong magnetic field under full power would have held it in-place even without the cir-clip that seems to still be attached to your shaft. Were you running the motor without the prop attached? The supplied prop adapter is quite good and if properly tightened the adapter would never have let a loose bell housing get by it. Quite a mysterious falilure...Thanks for posting the photos!
Cheers,
Jim

Originally Posted by jesolins

Sonny,
Look inside the bell housing at the top. Mine all have one allen screw. Perhaps your was loose or missing? Also all my shafts were so tight that they would never have come out on their own. Were you using the supplied prop adapter too? Very strange that the bell housing would have come off like that as the strong magnetic field under poser would have held it in-place even without the cir-clip that seems to be attached. Quite a mysterious falilure...Thanks for posting the photos!
Cheers,
Jim

I had to look with a magnifying glass to find it, but you're right; thank you. Being old & blind doesn't help! My mistake; that set screw should be tightened and thread locking compound applied. I was using a HK folding spinner & adapter for 3.17 mm shafts w/ Graupner 11x7 blades, (the blades supplied with that spinner are plastic and very heavy, (the "shoulders" are 8mm); the Graupners are much lighter, but have 6mm "shoulders" requiring nylon spacers to install the carbon blades in the back plate, but they are balanced and work very well. And like I said, I was running it up to full throttle at the time. Well, now that will make me change my opinion somewhat about these motors; with the shaft secured, then I think the motor should perform very well. The equivalent 28-30-950 Rimfire motor is rated 14A continuous, 20A peak, (and costs $49.99), If this motor with it's 30A rating runs as rated, it should outperform the Rimfire; we'll see. I'm going to reassemble and re-install the motor tonight, and will report back the results. Thanks Jim for calling me on that one; RCTimer you're off the hook, sorry for the mistake.

Sonny

sonny1, it's not the resolution of the camera that's making them blurry. It's because you need to use macro focus. The user manual would tell how to turn on macro mode.

BTW, the camera I used for the photo I posted showing the two motors was taken using my trusty 5MP Olympus 5060 I used the macro setting, no post image adjusting beyond cropping and adding the text. I normally use a tripod, but shot this hand-held so maybe not a good as it could have been either
Cheers,
Jim

Originally Posted by BrianL

sonny1, it's not the resolution of the camera that's making them blurry. It's because you need to use macro focus. The user manual would tell how to turn on macro mode.

Originally Posted by jesolins

BTW, the camera I used for the photo I posted showing the two motors was taken using my trusty 5MP Olympus 5060 I used the macro setting, no post image adjusting beyond cropping and adding the text. I normally use a tripod, but shot this hand-held so maybe not a good as it could have been either
Cheers,
Jim

Mine's an older Kodak Easy Share DX6490; don't know if there's a "macro" setting or not. I will check that function out; thanks for the tip.

Sonny

alright you guys, only read first page and then last.... So is this better than Hobbycity? And tdo they still have free shipping? -Tyler

Sonny,
Look for the "flower" on the dial That is the macro icon on that and most other cameras.
Cheers,
Jim

Originally Posted by sonny1

Mine's an older Kodak Easy Share DX6490; don't know if there's a "macro" setting or not. I will check that function out; thanks for the tip.

Sonny

Tyler,
There are good deals at either place. I suggest you see for yourself: www.rctimer.com. So far so good for me
Cheers,
Jim

Originally Posted by flyboy321

alright you guys, only read first page and then last.... So is this better than Hobbycity? And tdo they still have free shipping? -Tyler

Originally Posted by jesolins

Sonny,
Look for the "flower" on the dial That is the macro icon on that and most other cameras.
Cheers,
Jim

Thanks Jim for the tip, playing with my camera will be lots more fun and productive than fiddling with these "cheap" motors. I just spent the last few hours reassembling and remounting the 2830-13 motor with the same results. I tightened the set screw as tight as I could get it, and as soon as the motor started pulling over 10A the shaft spun again, (or more correctly the rotor spun on the shaft). I tried several times; only thing I did not try was replacing the set screw, (I'll go to the hardware store & get a new one tomorrow). I feel the only remedy will be to grind a "flat" on the shaft, (that might work if thread-locking compound is used after tightening). I have used Rimfire and EFlight motors and never had any problems even approaching this. Considering the time involved, $50 for a quality motor sounds cheap right now. I sincerely hope you all have better luck with your RCTimer motors, but this episode has cured me; no more "cheap" RCTimer motors for me....period! The inordinate amount of time involved has made this "inexpensive" motor way not worth the trouble. I appreciate all your help and encouragement guys, but that's it for me and their motors. Maybe a new set screw will fix it, but this motor is just not worth the time it has involved. I just ordered a replacement motor from HeadsupRC for $20, and if there's a problem I will only have to mail it back to Florida; that's worth the extra $10 over the cost of the RCTimer unit.

Sonny

Originally Posted by sonny1

Thank you for your offer.

Dear Sonny1,

Sorry for any inconvenience.
We have resent a new motor to you on 28/Nov.
Tracking No. is RB008140975HK, you can check the shipping details from www.hongkongpost.com

Nina

Sonny,
Very curious...There certainly must be something defective about your motor... Perhaps it is over-heating from the weight and pitch of your prop setup which might be a bit heavy for the motor? Do you have an IR temp gauge to check that? Or if not, is it too hot to touch? Nice that Nina is sending you another How heavy is your folding prop setup and how is it attached...photo please? Putting a flat on the shaft is a good idea. I will do that to increase reliability I might also try drilling and tapping and adding another set screw to the hub on the opposite side as well just to be sure it stays tight
Cheers,
Jim

Originally Posted by sonny1

Thanks Jim for the tip, playing with my camera will be lots more fun and productive than fiddling with these "cheap" motors. I just spent the last few hours reassembling and remounting the 2830-13 motor with the same results. I tightened the set screw as tight as I could get it, and as soon as the motor started pulling over 10A the shaft spun again, (or more correctly the rotor spun on the shaft). I tried several times; only thing I did not try was replacing the set screw, (I'll go to the hardware store & get a new one tomorrow). I feel the only remedy will be to grind a "flat" on the shaft, (that might work if thread-locking compound is used after tightening). I have used Rimfire and EFlight motors and never had any problems even approaching this. Considering the time involved, $50 for a quality motor sounds cheap right now. I sincerely hope you all have better luck with your RCTimer motors, but this episode has cured me; no more "cheap" RCTimer motors for me....period! The inordinate amount of time involved has made this "inexpensive" motor way not worth the trouble. I appreciate all your help and encouragement guys, but that's it for me and their motors. Maybe a new set screw will fix it, but this motor is just not worth the time it has involved. I just ordered a replacement motor from HeadsupRC for $20, and if there's a problem I will only have to mail it back to Florida; that's worth the extra $10 over the cost of the RCTimer unit.

Sonny

Originally Posted by jesolins

Sonny,
Very curious...There certainly must be something defective about your motor... Perhaps it is over-heating from the weight and pitch of your prop setup which might be a bit heavy for the motor? Do you have an IR temp gauge to check that? Or if not, is it too hot to touch? Nice that Nina is sending you another How heavy is your folding prop setup and how is it attached...photo please? Putting a flat on the shaft is a good idea. I will do that to increase reliability I might also try drilling and tapping and adding another set screw to the hub on the opposite side as well just to be sure it stays tight
Cheers,
Jim

Good idea Jim, at 950kv this motor should have 2 set screws. On the last attempt I changed the prop to a 10x7e to see if it would hold with a smaller prop; no dice! And yes, the motor was hot to the touch afterward. When I think about it, most 28mm motors are rated at around 20A, this one is rated 30A, that's a lot of torque at 950kv for such a small motor. And yes it is nice of Nina to send a replacement motor, and I thank them for that. Something I didn't mention is that through this episode I also apparently burned up the 30A ESC I was using; I had to switch to a 25A Rimfire ss-25 for the last few tests. I think when the rotor spun on the shaft, the rpm surge was too much for the first ESC and it just popped, so I'll be needing to shop for a new ESC too! It also was a cheap "no name" unit, so I'm getting an extended lesson on the use of inexpensive components. Again, it's a good thing this all happened on the bench, and not while airborne. Now with two motors coming, (one from RCTimer & the one I ordered from HeadsupRC; an Emax 450 Sport), I will be able to compare them side by side: I will post the results of that comparison when the motors come in, (I will also test a Rimfire 28-30-950 so we can compare all the results). I'll post pics of the props I used this evening, though I don't have a small scale to weigh them on; I'll see if I can take them to the UPS Store & weigh them today and report back. I hope all this will be helpful, and will give all of you an idea of what's going on with these motors. These are nice looking and supposedly well-built motors, but obviously there is something "sideways" going on here; I'll play the lab rat for a little longer and see it through till we figure it all out. Thanks for all the feedback, more later.

Sonny