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Old Oct 07, 2012, 01:33 PM
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On second thought, I think I'd better wait until it comes naturally, instead of trying to forcing the issue. I'll just continue sports fly for now.

Thanks
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 04:32 PM
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After the incident I set my tx to engage the set up mode only when both throttle cut and mode select switch are in the correct place, after some more costly mistakes now it behaves beautifully. As soon as I flip the throttle cut switch it will go into normal fly mode.

After a lot more work, finally had a successful flight! Lifted to about 1m high and hoovered ok. Man it felt good! Make all the frustration worth it!

But it doesn't last long. After fully charged the battery then spool up again. Before take off the tail case screw flew off. Not a big deal overall but I foolishly decided to take the whole tail apart and then broke a screw in one of the tail blade grip. So I'm now waiting for a new blade grip set. :banghead:

Question. Shall I get the align blade grip set? Thinking of getting the feathering shaft too. Hk ones are too soft and bent easily. But I did manage to straighten one.

I think think HK main shaft quality is not bad, so won't be getting those. What else shall I get stock align stuff? Don't want to sink too much money as I'm likely crash a lot. Would want to keep to HK low cost parts as much as possible.
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 04:46 PM
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United States, CT, Trumbull
Joined Dec 2007
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the only thing that is align on mine are the feathering shaft, extra screws and the balls on the swash and all the links . unless i crash and something gets broken and its none of those parts listed i usually go for the HK parts . but the main shaft isn't too expensive either .
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 04:47 PM
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United States, AZ, Mesa
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I found that going cheap on anything to do with keeping the tail holding was more costly in the long run cause it would make me lose orientation and crash. Don't skimp on the tail.
Garry K.
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 04:57 PM
efx
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The tail can be fixed by adding a screw in the middle hole and making sure you tighten the fin screws. I have found that these two screws keep it in place. When the fin top screw loosens up then the tail tends to rotate and screw things up, specially when you hit the ground. This is why I added the middle screw before the two fin screws, that was messing me up all the time.The tails are better now and my settings don't get screwed. You just have to find a screw to fits in the middle of the fin screws on the case.

As others have mentioned you can also add longer screws for the hk feathering shaft. I'm still testing that, but it looks like this make work and keep them from breaking so easily. But I'm still testing. I'm still using the original blade grips. Just make sure you get long enough screws on the ball link or they will come off. I haven't had any problems with them after using longer screws on the balls. That took care of that problem.
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garryk View Post
I found that going cheap on anything to do with keeping the tail holding was more costly in the long run cause it would make me lose orientation and crash. Don't skimp on the tail.
Garry K.
Quote:
Originally Posted by efx View Post
The tail can be fixed by adding a screw in the middle hole and making sure you tighten the fin screws. I have found that these two screws keep it in place. When the fin top screw loosens up then the tail tends to rotate and screw things up, specially when you hit the ground. This is why I added the middle screw before the two fin screws, that was messing me up all the time.The tails are better now and my settings don't get screwed. You just have to find a screw to fits in the middle of the fin screws on the case.

As others have mentioned you can also add longer screws for the hk feathering shaft. I'm still testing that, but it looks like this make work and keep them from breaking so easily. But I'm still testing. I'm still using the original blade grips. Just make sure you get long enough screws on the ball link or they will come off. I haven't had any problems with them after using longer screws on the balls. That took care of that problem.
I think he meant the gyro/servo holding the tail steady in flight
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efx View Post
The tail can be fixed by adding a screw in the middle hole and making sure you tighten the fin screws. I have found that these two screws keep it in place. When the fin top screw loosens up then the tail tends to rotate and screw things up, specially when you hit the ground. This is why I added the middle screw before the two fin screws, that was messing me up all the time.The tails are better now and my settings don't get screwed. You just have to find a screw to fits in the middle of the fin screws on the case.

As others have mentioned you can also add longer screws for the hk feathering shaft. I'm still testing that, but it looks like this make work and keep them from breaking so easily. But I'm still testing. I'm still using the original blade grips. Just make sure you get long enough screws on the ball link or they will come off. I haven't had any problems with them after using longer screws on the balls. That took care of that problem.
Putting a screw in the middle hole is exactly what I did. I thought there must be a pin of some sort and I must have lost it somewhere and looked for it everywhere. Then I just used the self tapping screw for the skid plate and locked in by the fin. I also used CA to fix the tail case as it was still loose.

From my limited experience with helicopter and the kit, I think it was a very good value kit overall. The components are mostly well made. Only had a few issues here and there, mostly on the CF parts, just need to file some places. The metal parts seem to be well made, although maybe on a bit soft side.

However I'm not sure about the bearings though. And I'm not experienced to know how to care for them.
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 09:40 PM
efx
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The middle screw is only to prevent the whole tail from rotating. Over time I've found that if the fins screws get loose, so does the middle hole. I just tighten it a bit and as you said the aluminum is soft and just tighten the two fin screws which are really the ones that tighten the whole tail unfortunately. I just tighten the middle screw until it touches the other side, but the hole has gotten a tiny bit big on the old tail which is the reason I also decided to change it. I could have put in a larger screw but it was bent a bit when I crashed so I just tossed that part in the trash and kept the rest of it and put on the whole new one. Other than this I don't know what else we could do there other than maybe going with torque tube, but I have no idea if those are any different. The belt is better if you're still learning and crashing though.
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 11:38 PM
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the tail tubes aluminum is soft . after a bit maybe 15 or 20 (if your lucky) flights the screw holding the tail will rip the aluminum apart . the best solution i found is to use a E-Sky black tube http://www.xheli.com/ek-002367.html . the tube is smaller in diameter but it slide inside the HK 250 one . The E-Sky tube is also thicker so it will last a long time. you dont need the whole tube either , just where the tail fits on and going into the tail boom holder .
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 03:36 AM
efx
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That's too much work Jumbo...lol...I finally went out to the grass to see if I could get the flybarless 450 off the ground, but still didn't. I got another blade strike on the ground and almost kill the heli again. I did take out another servo. Luckidly I'm still using the cheap analogs for my cyclics since I know this would happen. In any case I'm also learning about all the settings which are a bit different on the manual than on the programmer so that's been doing a number too. I think I finally figured out how to load the type of hely flying style on it, but I learned to tuned that thing down at the park first anyway. Needless to say I'm not to crazy about the feel of the flybarless, the whole thing seems to shift to one side with the slightest right stick move so I lowered that down but still. It just feels odd. I guess you can't make any moves until you're off the ground, is this correct with the flybarless? It looks like everything is set up correctly, I double checked the manual today, just seems harder to even get off the ground with this thing.
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 04:38 AM
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Ohhh, gosssshhhhhh. I broke my kevlar tail belt finally.
But looking at the facts that I have been using the same tail belt for at least 6 months and survived in 2 crashes, I think it is a pretty good belt for 250.
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 07:44 AM
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Hey! if your testing new things there is no shame in putting the training gear back on! Will save you a lot of money and parts.
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 10:43 AM
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United States, AZ, Mesa
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Flybarless can be maneuvered on the ground just as well as in the air. My McpX, 130X and 450 flybarless ALL can be centered while on the ground still. Just as if it were a flybar. I does feel a bit different, but it does work. Just use slightest of movements. I tried it on purpose on all my helis and have no trouble on the ground.
Garry K.
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 10:57 AM
Team Mulikow 3D
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Joined Jan 2007
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Originally Posted by garryk View Post
Flybarless can be maneuvered on the ground just as well as in the air. My McpX, 130X and 450 flybarless ALL can be centered while on the ground still. Just as if it were a flybar. I does feel a bit different, but it does work. Just use slightest of movements. I tried it on purpose on all my helis and have no trouble on the ground.
Garry K.
Nooooo - it will end in death and destruction

scared by flybarless takeoff ? (2 min 58 sec)
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 11:19 AM
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United States, AZ, Mesa
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LOL at first I thought you were serious. Then I watched the video. I'm not THAT good at ground handling, but it shows it is possible. Thanks for the vid.
Garry K.
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