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Old Sep 21, 2012, 08:14 AM
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Double post
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 08:19 AM
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efx, you may replace the HK one piece landing skid with Tarot 2 pieces landing skids with bottom frame plate.
It is cheaper than original Align, also more durable & stronger than HK.
I don't use the HK one piece base plate & skids for all my 250 clones, it just too easy to broke apart.
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 12:50 PM
AMA# 548800
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That's why I needed to add a strip of wood. To get the center of gravity perfect. I use the xheli EXI part for the 4 pc .
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Old Sep 23, 2012, 10:39 PM
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Joined Jun 2006
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hi, i'm a advance beginer heli pilot and this is the first heli that i get that is not RTF or BNF. i'd like to know if my set up is good ?? so here the electronic that i bought whit the HK250gt:

Turnigy 2627 Brushless 300-Size Heli Motor 4200kv
Hobby King 401B AVCS Digital Head Lock Gyro
HK15178 Analog Servo 10g / 1.4kg / 0.09s
Hobby King 20A ESC 3A UBEC
ZIPPY Flightmax 800mAh 3S1P 20C

and for the TX and RX i have a spektrum DX6i radio with a 6 chanels orange RX
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Old Sep 24, 2012, 10:14 PM
efx
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I got my new motors today. The motor is a pain in the rear as it is bigger than my hk's. The worst part is that it comes with this piece of crap half of a gear. I now need washers on the bottom to lower the motor so the gear will work. I also don't have a gear that has teeth that cover the whole gear. I tried taking out the old one, but that screw is on there pretty good, so I'm just going to leave it alone. I don't have any and I've been fighting it trying to get it in there. Well I'm just mad right now, but it will wear off eventually.

This is the target hobbymate 250 motor. Just in case anyone wanted to know. What a pain in the rear.
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 12:29 AM
efx
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I finally stopped messing with this and took a break and got some food. While I was eating I remembered I had that spare heli kit which comes with a gear! So I just took it out and put it on the other motor. Man do I feel dumb. I need to drop everything when it's hot and I'm stressed out. I can't shrink the motor any more, but I'll let you guys know how the new gear turns out.

I did manage to lose the motor screws but used the old motor screws. They use the same size. I also ran out of plugs for the battery so I had to take off the old one and solder it to the new esc. Moral of this story, think carefully about what you'll be changing and order what you will need ahead of time so you don't stress out too much when you find out you don't have the parts. I know we all know this, but I thought I remind you guys.

Oh, I forgot to mention that these motor shafts also don't have a flat on the gear side. This time I took out the dremel with a flat grinding wheel and slowly flatten one side a bit. You just need a tiny bit and from what I have noticed usually closer to the motor side. The 3 bottom screws also need lock tite. I couldn't use the 2mm plugs that are included either so I had to use these bigger ones I had laying around. I think they're 3 or 4mm.
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 03:07 AM
efx
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While I was looking at the motors I saw the bottom set screw and took it out to check it. It was lose so I proceeded to put on some lock tite. I also went ahead and decided to take out the set screw from the one I had installed and of course that thing went puff! I thought I lost another tiny screw. I couldn't take out the bottom screws as I had put lock tite on them so it was a no brainer, I had to take it out again to see if I could find the set screw and low and behold look where it ended up.

I'm glad I decided to swap the gears, the motors feel pretty smooth despite the slight pain in the butt. So if you get these throw away that half gear they come with and use the one from the 250gt kit. The only thing I'm not too crazy about now is that the gear is right on where the set screw sits. It seems okay but the gears do sit a bit higher on these motors than the other ones I have from hk. So we'll see how that turns out. I got both motors installed but only one 18amp esc. I want to test and see how much of a difference if any this one has. I'll be using the same motor on both helis now.
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 08:02 AM
Brent 黑雁
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Canada, AB, Ponoka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efx View Post
While I was looking at the motors I saw the bottom set screw and took it out to check it. It was lose so I proceeded to put on some lock tite. I also went ahead and decided to take out the set screw from the one I had installed and of course that thing went puff! I thought I lost another tiny screw. I couldn't take out the bottom screws as I had put lock tite on them so it was a no brainer, I had to take it out again to see if I could find the set screw and low and behold look where it ended up.

I'm glad I decided to swap the gears, the motors feel pretty smooth despite the slight pain in the butt. So if you get these throw away that half gear they come with and use the one from the 250gt kit. The only thing I'm not too crazy about now is that the gear is right on where the set screw sits. It seems okay but the gears do sit a bit higher on these motors than the other ones I have from hk. So we'll see how that turns out. I got both motors installed but only one 18amp esc. I want to test and see how much of a difference if any this one has. I'll be using the same motor on both helis now.
I would space the motor down a bit. I use those gears and when setting the clearance, you will have tight contact near the set screw and the other end of the pinion will not have proper gear contact.
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 12:52 PM
efx
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Thanks for the suggestion. Adding washers is a pain on it. So what other gears has anyone used on these that may work, or other workaround? I'm thinking the shaft may need to be changed as the lip sits a bit higher making the gear sit higher. I really don't want to use washers even though that may work. I'll do a test for now but thanks again. Actually I was just afraid the gear would break on when that set screw side comes around each time.

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Originally Posted by BThirsk View Post
I would space the motor down a bit. I use those gears and when setting the clearance, you will have tight contact near the set screw and the other end of the pinion will not have proper gear contact.
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 06:21 PM
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Has anybody tried the HK 250 with the cx-3x1000 FBL gyro? I heard these "cheap" gyros don't work very well with 250 sized helis.
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 07:16 PM
efx
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I have one and it worked just fine as a regular gyro when I had it on the 250. No flybarless though, but it felt smooth. Just make sure to open up the case and shorten the solder pins as they stick out quite a bit and I've heard of shorting on those if you don't do it.

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Has anybody tried the HK 250 with the cx-3x1000 FBL gyro? I heard these "cheap" gyros don't work very well with 250 sized helis.
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 07:54 PM
efx
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I just came back from the park. I thought I take out the helis and do a test. The 250 with the new motor and 450 landing skids felt a bit heavy. Not a surprise since the new motor is also a tiny bit bigger than the first one I used. I worked fine until I tipped it over. Well it was windy and I have been playing around with the gyro settings trying to get that sweet spot which seems crucial. Is it me or are the hk feathering shafts getting softer and softer. They no longer seem to last even the smallest bump now. So the motor seems to work fine as is, I really couldn't tell much difference other than the heli feeling a bit heavier, but worked better with a fresh battery. So you may be able to get away with a 450 landing skid if you don't mind that.

I took out the 450 and although I got it flying, I need to fix some things on it, but it was nice to take that one out on the more open field. The assan gyro seems to work well on this one too which I like, just took me longer to set things up on it for some reason. Mechanical adjustments.
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 09:01 PM
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I have one and it worked just fine as a regular gyro when I had it on the 250. No flybarless though, but it felt smooth. Just make sure to open up the case and shorten the solder pins as they stick out quite a bit and I've heard of shorting on those if you don't do it.
Thanks. I'm just trying to decide on copterX or HK 250 and which one works better with the cx-3x1000.
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Old Sep 25, 2012, 11:48 PM
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Is it me or are the hk feathering shafts getting softer and softer. They no longer seem to last even the smallest bump now.
Check how deep is the threaded hole in the feathering shaft and compare it to a align one. What I notice is that HK fs is 8in deep while the align is 6in and always have notice that the HK breaks just where the bolt ends.

I did receive a new HK FBL head and went directly to check the dept, I was surprise to find that the new feathering shaft has a 4-5in deep holes on it and seems to be more stronger that the old ones.
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 02:04 AM
efx
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Thanks for the info. They used to be okay but that would make sense as I have been killing them with the slightest bump and well, it's now getting annoying. You're right too, they always do break at the same place it seems. I have yet to buy any align parts just because of the cost but I may try those some time.

I just checked my last one with a needle. The depth seems about 10mm. The thread is hard to tell how far they go, looks to be far down. It seems the middle has enough strength. I put in one of the new screws and it screws all the way down, without the washer. The length of the screw is about 5mm so that may need to be fixed on them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by r3dskull View Post
Check how deep is the threaded hole in the feathering shaft and compare it to a align one. What I notice is that HK fs is 8in deep while the align is 6in and always have notice that the HK breaks just where the bolt ends.

I did receive a new HK FBL head and went directly to check the dept, I was surprise to find that the new feathering shaft has a 4-5in deep holes on it and seems to be more stronger that the old ones.
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