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Off the Edge Sailplanes Wasp Slope Soarer Review
Introduction
Anyone who has flown slope for a while will have a range of gliders to suit different conditions. These range from the ultra-light “floaters” for low wind days to the heavy “lead-sled” gliders which come out when the wind gets up. The 48" EPP combat wing is mandatory for any fleet and sits roughly half way between the floater and the lead-sled. But what do you reach for when the wind is too strong for the floater but too light for the combat wing? The Wasp! Make no mistake - though ideal for the light to medium wind days the Wasp refuses to be stereotyped into that category. It is capable of high speed and penetrating strong winds, yet its light weight means that it can stay up when the combat wings are being put away. And its compact to boot! That's why I got out my wallet and invested in a Wasp - if you're tempted to do so also, read on.
Kit Contents
A surprisingly small box contains a pair of computer hot wire cut wing cores and nose pod dense EPP, balsa tail fin and elevons already cut, carbon fibre wing spars and control rods with nifty little keepers on them. There is also a nice vinyl "WASP" decal to show everyone else what you are flying. What isn't in the box is likely within easy reach of any slope pilot. Colored and clear wing tape, some fibreglass tape for protecting the pod and leading edge, 3M77 spray glue, some foam friendly glue for the spars, a hot glue gun and some basic tools.
Assembly
The kit goes together using techniques familiar to anyone who has built an EPP combat wing. I started with the...
Wing
First step is to join the wing halves. Normally I reach for the polyurethane glue (Selleys Vise, for instance), however, I had none at hand. The instructions suggested sticking the halves together with 3M77 which is new to me. So figuring that most of the join strength would come from the spars I gave one side a spray of the good ol' aerosol glue, waited for it to go tacky and brought the halves together. No trouble! Having installed the spars I covered the wing using 3M77 and colored wing tape, ensuring a good “this side up” color scheme. I chose to cover the elevons with iron-on laminating film before taping over with wing tape. I also cut out the servo locations, ensuring that the leads could reach the receiver compartment.
Fuselage Pod
A bit of sanding makes the pod into a rounded shape. Which is then covered with either film or tape. My local slopes are quite rocky, so I taped the entire pod with fibreglass tape before finishing with colored tape. Spaces are cut for battery and receiver. I had chosen to use a lightweight 370mAh NiMH receiver pack so placed this as far forward in the nose as possible to get the weight where it needs to be. If you choose to use a lipo and regulator to power your receiver you would do well to do the same. I also cut a hole in the wing seat for the servo leads to pass through on their way to the receiver compartment.
Tail
Is covered as you wish. After sanding, I used wing tape over iron-on laminating film. A slot in the wing was cut for the tail as per instructions and trial fitted. With the pod and tail prepared and fitting well I warmed up the hot glue gun and stuck it all together.
Radio Installation
When the servos were in location and centered and the receiver was snug in the pod with the battery, all that was left to do was run a slot for the aerial, push it in place and tape over with clear packing tape. I also installed the alarm as described on your right.
Completion
The last job was to connect the control horns and pushrods. These are provided with a Z bend at one end for the control horn and a nifty connector which clamps the rod at the servo end, allowing fine tuning. I don't fancy searching for lost nuts and screws on the slope, so I pulled out the threadlock when I was satisfied that all was positioned well. A drop of CA would do the same trick, but threadlock is a useful metal to metal glue which can be loosened with the application of heat from, say, a soldering iron. You don't need much; in fact, the locking screw on the left has too much! A little dab on the cloth and the screw is ready to be installed with no fear of it coming loose.
Time to put it across the scales. The instructions suggest a weight of around 10oz (280grams). Mine is a light weight 7oz (204grams). I spoke to Glenn at Off The Edge Sailplanes who said that either light or heavy they all fly fine.
Flying
No wind? No matter! Once finished I hurried into the backyard like a kid with a new toy and started chucking it from one end to the other. The glide path is as flat as your building board! The Wasp would keep flying until its journey was interrupted by a shed, some swings or a slippery dip. Being EPP, it bounced off these with no damage. These shenanigans... err... glide tests showed that the Wasp can fly very slowly before the wing stops working and the plane sinks to the ground. This indicates that it is capable of scratching about in light lift. Great! Time to find some wind and a slope!
On the slope
The Wasp's first proper outing was on a large hill facing some strong winds. Our good Bureau of Meterology reported that wind speed averaged some 25km/h (15mph) gusting to 50km/h (30mph)! During the stronger winds, some pilots up on the hill elected to not fly their combat wings as the wind was too strong. No matter: "Hold that camera for me, would you? Ta!"
The second photo above shows the correct maiden launch method: a light hold on the fuselage allowing the wind to pass over the wing. With the glider held so I could feel if it wanted to pitch up or down or roll to one side. Having trimmed the glider safely in this manner it was time to launch. The Wasp jumped away from the hand launch. It was bounced around by the turbulent air near the slope but soon found its groove in the smoother air further out. Despite having no ballast it carved long, fast passes in the strong wind, easily reversing and rolling in the abundant lift. Perhaps it is an optical illusion brought about by its small size, but the Wasp moves quickly - very quickly - darting around the slope and changing direction like a ball hitting a wall. In the strong wind the secret was to keep moving. Hovering in the wind for more than a few seconds would see the Wasp blown back (refer end of video!), but diving down for another pass would keep it out in front quite happily.
Inverted flight is a cinch and needs only a smidgin of down elevator to keep flying. Rolls are very fast (you may want some expo!), and on the whole the plane feels smooth and responsive. In the interest of testing its durability I allowed some mishaps on the rocks to occur. Onlookers would call these “crashes” but they aren't writing this article are they? These mishaps didn't dent or damage the Wasp at all. I was pleased that the balsa fin held up well; I suppose the plane's light weight reduced momentum and prevented damage. The stronger gusts did become too much for these 7oz (200grams) of EPP so I put the Wasp away for that day and pulled out the heavy combat wing instead.
I've had the pleasure of committing aviation with the Wasp in more suitable conditions. Be assured it is a great tool for the right day. With a pleasant breeze on your face the Wasp happily darts about responding well to lift, much in the manner of a good combat wing, only everything can be done more quickly! Roll rate - quicker! Acceleration - turbo! Top speed - ballistic! Turns - like a top! All in all a nifty slope machine which flies very well in a wide variety of conditions and excels when the wind is grounding the heavy combat wings. And only $60 AUD - bargain!
Is This For a Beginner?
Yes... and no. It’s EPP, it’s brilliant fun and it’s so durable a beginner would be able to crash it then try again. However, the Wasp is fast. Very fast. So I'd recommend that the raw beginner try a more conventional 48" combat wing first. But if you have flown prop driven aircraft on the flat and want to give this slope nonsense a go, the Wasp represents a cheap, yet exhilarating way of trying out slope soaring. It will happily use the radio gear from your parkflyer and as $$ for inches go, represents great value. Here in Australia it costs not much more than half the price of a quality 48" combat wing.
Flight Video
Conclusion
Parkfly pilots would have the required gear easily at hand so should look no further if they want to try out slope flying. And slope addicts (like me) will appreciate having a fast, fun glider that easily fits in the car to fill the gap between lightweight floater and combat wing for those medium wind days. And enjoy flying when its too windy anyway! The lost model alarm / low voltage alarm is a highly recommended compliment to the Wasp - have a look on NQRC where you can find switch-jacks, lipo regulators and other useful widgets to suit. The kit cost me $60 (AUD) - tha’ts $2 per inch - which is a pretty negligible outlay for such a versatile glider. Get some mates together to combine the postage and give it a go.
Pluses
Minuses
Last edited by Angela H; Oct 06, 2009 at 05:35 PM.. |
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: San Diego
Posts: 424
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Looks really close to a weasel. Good flying.
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#3 |
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The original Flyin Pigs Sqd.
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Netanya, Israel
Posts: 7,036
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Weasel clone...
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#4 | |
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DW Foamies nut.
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Quote:
Nice review
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#5 |
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Heres JOHNNY!
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Bondi
Posts: 786
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I'm sure the weasel was cloned from something else......
I much prefer my wasp to a weasel any day! weasel's don't fly as fast or for that matter, aren't as fun! both good planes though. my $0.02 |
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#6 |
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Next time I'll ARTF...
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Canberra, Australia (Southside)
Posts: 4,193
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Cheers gents.
Yes - Weasel clone... and my Beevolution is a Zagi clone. No-one has copyright on elevons! ![]() I haven't met a Weasel first hand (love my Alula though). I imagine that the Wasp and Weasel fly much the same. I think the Wasp came out when Weasel production was on hold. In any case as far as construction goes the Weevo is a totally different product. Would also like to pass thanks to anabatic and Dusk for camera-work. |
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#7 |
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__Jackass Savant__
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: So Cal
Posts: 2,199
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the fuse is weaselish, but the wing sweep is different on the wasp and the tip chord is smaller.
They don't fly the same either. |
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#8 |
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Next time I'll ARTF...
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Canberra, Australia (Southside)
Posts: 4,193
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Thanks for the clarification BOZman.
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#9 |
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The world loves Wannabes
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Bondi, Sydney
Posts: 3,976
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What is it with these Dreamflight fanboys?
![]() My Wasp fly's nothing like my Weasel. It's twice as fast. |
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#10 | |
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__Jackass Savant__
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: So Cal
Posts: 2,199
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Quote:
I love a good argument, but: They are comparing the wasp to the weasel pro, which hasn't been available for a loooooong time. I don't see Michael re-releasing the pro in any time soon.And dimensionally "root, tip, sweep, and span" the wasp is different on all counts. And the wasp doesn't have the proprietary blended secret airfoil of the weasel. |
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#11 |
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__Jackass Savant__
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: So Cal
Posts: 2,199
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AND, the water goes down the drain in the opposite direction at either factory.
<---back to my drink currently in progress... |
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#12 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Crapberra, Australia.
Posts: 266
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Gotta love the naysayers. Without them RC Groups would be a boring place Great review. Very cool little plane. Can't wait to see it on the slopes. Jordan |
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#13 |
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by ZIPPER
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: East Kurrajong Sydney Australia
Posts: 2,712
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Well the Wasp has been out alot longer than the Wevo, so that makes the Wevo a clone of the Wasp
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#14 |
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Occasional Contributor
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 1,524
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Great review Glydr,
Got me enthused about hitting the slopes next time the wind is favourable. Clovus |
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#15 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Stockton, Ca. USA
Posts: 6,632
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I enjoyed your review and look for more from the land down under. Mike H
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