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Old Sep 13, 2009, 08:40 PM
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Niagara, Canada
Joined Jun 2004
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Help!
spirit 100 kit build?

I see the plans call for one servo for the flaps, but this will necessitate connecting and disconnection the right wing flap with each trip to the field. Does it make sense to put a servo in each wing? and if so is it ok to move them both outboard by 2 rib bays?

Any tips and mods for this build would be most appreciated!

Thanks
Meko
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Old Sep 14, 2009, 01:12 AM
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Fort Lewis, Washington, United States
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If you I want I can send you PM with a pretty dinitive list of mods for the spirit 100.

Soar Dude
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Old Sep 14, 2009, 01:26 AM
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Moving the servos outboard will increase the inertia along the roll axis, and the plane won't signal lift quite as well. Granted the difference will be small, but small differences can have significant impacts on performance.

Since the servos are aft of the CG, the plane will be heavier by the weight of the servo, the mounting structure, AND the added nose weight required to balance the plane. I think of it as a sin tax for adding weight aft of the CG.

Maybe you could put the servo in the fuselage, and arrange a flap-drive mechanism that's easy to connect at the field.

Roger
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Old Sep 14, 2009, 02:04 AM
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Soar Dude I'd be interested in that list of mods too. I built the kit last year and it would be good to see what I should have done....

I Built the advanced wing, and stuck in two separate flap servos one in each wing. I'd recommend doing it that -- gives you much more flexibility in terms of setup, and torque rods are a PITA if you ask me..... I also stuck an electric motor in the front of mine :-) (high starts and winches are also a PITA...)

Meko the other thing to bear in mind is the CG in the manual is waaaaay far forward of where it can be. Don't be tempted to fill up the nose with permanently mounted lead until you have flowen it...
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Old Sep 14, 2009, 02:12 AM
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"high starts and winches are also a PITA"

I feel the same way about electric motors, folding props, extra batteries, BECs, and reduced performance.

Roger
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Old Sep 14, 2009, 07:42 AM
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Niagara, Canada
Joined Jun 2004
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S.D. I would love to see your list of mods thanks!
Areid What bays did you put your flap servo's in? Also, did you sheet the outer wing portions on your Spirit?
Roger Certainly something to think about, I've been reading that this plane sn't the 'fluffyest of floaters, so I can see where the downsides you mention could be of some significance.

Thanks to all for your input!
Meko
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Old Sep 14, 2009, 07:53 AM
RIP Ric
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Marietta, GA
Joined Jun 1999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soar_dude
If you I want I can send you PM with a pretty dinitive list of mods for the spirit 100.

Soar Dude

Why don't you post them here for all to enjoy?
..a
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Old Sep 14, 2009, 12:20 PM
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Russian Federation, Sakha, Yakutsk
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I have a list of Spirit 100 mods:

Lose the metal pushrods for some Sullivan carbon impregnated rods

Build a new Rudder with more area

punch up the wing bolt diameter (drill and either make new wood threads or use blind-nuts)

Use seperate servos for the flaps

Shim the trailing edge of the wing about 2mm to decrease the HUGE decalage angle.

Either sheet the outer panels (pain) OR use diagonal cross-braces forward of the spar to help reduce / eliminate tip-panel twisting / flutter.
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Old Sep 14, 2009, 02:04 PM
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My flap servos are in the 2nd bay past the inner sheeting. Yep, I sheeted the upper surface of the outboard wing panel. Not sure if this adds anything performance wise - there doesn't seem to be a good concensus on wether it reduces tip stalls but it was reasonably easy to do so I did it anyway. I supect it probably also adds a bit of strength.

The other thing I would do in retrospect is to somehow lighten the tail. The spirit kit needs a whole heap of weight in the front of it (though I didn't end up needing any lead by the time I put in a motor and 2x 1600 3S lipos. I also put my RE servos underneath the cannopy rather than underneath the wing.

The tail section feels very strong (and heavy) so could probably have a few lightening holes put in it along the sides of the fuse. I'd be interested to hear if anyone else has done this.

Totally agree on the decalage issue as well. I had porposing issues (even with the CG ridiculously far back) until I did something about this. A couple of mm is all that is needed.

I also strengthened the wing joiner sections (where the joiner plugs in) with fibre-glass wrapped around it. Wrapping nylon didn't seem strong enough to me.

I found the Spirit 100 kit a fun kit to build. I used rubber bands to attach the wing, but am totally wishing I did the bolt on thing now as I haven't had any "accidents" and the bands are a pain (and look ugly...).
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Old Sep 14, 2009, 06:19 PM
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If you're doing the kit build, sheet the outboard leading edge, at least on the top. A full D-Box would be better, but you have to modify the ribs and outer spar spacing to account for the thickness of the sheet. It'll give you a stronger outer wing, better performance, and a LOT less flutter on launch.
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Old Sep 14, 2009, 08:50 PM
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Niagara, Canada
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Thanks for the advice on the outboard wing panels, sounds like a little time here will be well spent. I should be able to modify the ribs to accomodate sheeting. FrogChief, you changed out the pushrods for carbon impregnated, but did you stay with the torque rod approach or instal a control horn on each flap? I was thinking the horn would give me tighter control over the control surface (no slop), be shorter and therefore a better way to go. Any thoughts on control horn vs torque rods?
I'll be sure to check the decalage and compensate accordingly. Is it easier to shim the main wing or adjust the horizonal stab during construction?
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Old Sep 14, 2009, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meko
Thanks for the advice on the outboard wing panels, sounds like a little time here will be well spent. I should be able to modify the ribs to accomodate sheeting. FrogChief, you changed out the pushrods for carbon impregnated, but did you stay with the torque rod approach or instal a control horn on each flap? I was thinking the horn would give me tighter control over the control surface (no slop), be shorter and therefore a better way to go. Any thoughts on control horn vs torque rods?
I'll be sure to check the decalage and compensate accordingly. Is it easier to shim the main wing or adjust the horizonal stab during construction?

It's MUCH easier to shim the main wing on the ARF Fiberglass fuselage. If working with a wood fuse take the angle out of the Stab saddle.

Horn in each flap. Servo for each flap.
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Old Sep 15, 2009, 11:54 AM
KMR
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Joined May 2007
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I'm learning to fly with mine. Went back to elastics but am on my third wing joiner. Any alternatives in that department? I use an Axi 2814/10 with 1100 4s a123 battery pack to keep er going. It allows me to settle the nerves before the inevitable... very tough bird. Haven't been able to use the flaps yet, but think it would be better to have them on the throttle stick...motor on a switch. I think I'll try moving the cg back and shim the trailing edge as suggested. Thanks, very nice thread!
kreid

edit: 2820/10 axi
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Old Oct 14, 2009, 06:09 PM
Proud member of LISF and ESL
LI, New York, USA
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Meko,

How is your Spirit coming along?
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Old Dec 21, 2009, 07:42 AM
Flying or Floating....
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Pemberton NJ
Joined Jun 2006
222 Posts
I got a Spirit 100 kit this spring, and am getting around to building it with the sport wing. I addition it will have an electric motor, as I much prefer this over a winch launch.

The flap arrangement seemed way too complicated, so I put a Hitec HS 65 servo in each wing to activate the flaps.

Here are a couple of pictures.
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