Originally Posted by joesmith285

That was the whole point of using thin ca, get everything all lined up, glue the ca hingeds, and then wick in thin around the joiner.

Glue wars

I think I'll go this route once my replacement elevator gets here. The original one is in the trash... I got pissed and snapped it into several pieces!

Originally Posted by turnerm

I think I'll go this route once my replacement elevator gets here. The original one is in the trash... I got pissed and snapped it into several pieces!

Now I find that hard to believe.

I'm with Joe Smith on this one. I've put together a half dozen planes using this method with NO problems. The covering to covering bond holds WELL on the horizontal stab with thin CA, so that's how I join the elevator.

Originally Posted by turnerm

I think I'll go this route once my replacement elevator gets here. The original one is in the trash... I got pissed and snapped it into several pieces!

ok skar face.

Originally Posted by Irg

ok skar face.

Oooooh man!! Them is FIGHTIN' WORDS!!!

Originally Posted by Irg

ok skar face.

Originally Posted by turnerm

Oooooh man!! Them is FIGHTIN' WORDS!!!

Is that the second Skar face comment in as many days. What's up with that

OK, the 57 is almost finished. Waitin on the 100 ice and its go time. I will have to say that was one of the easiest builds yet from 3DHS. It just kinda fell together. I did have a little modifying to do to the motor mount to make the Motrol 3620 fit properly with the cowling (mainly the color and striping match. The motor box is very deep and I had to push the motor out 1/2" to get everything to line up. Still not perfect but good enough. Looking forward to 3DHS ship #4 of the 5 Ive purchased this year alone

Originally Posted by turnerm

Oooooh man!! Them is FIGHTIN' WORDS!!!

Originally Posted by chq28

Is that the second Skar face comment in as many days. What's up with that

I definitely took inspiration from the first one . I feel for both of you guys...I've been in the same mood of frustration and anger many a time. the nice thing is that if you continue in the hobby you start to accrue tools and skills that make everything easier and those moments start to become fewer and farther between.

Originally Posted by Irg

I definitely took inspiration from the first one . I feel for both of you guys...I've been in the same mood of frustration and anger many a time. the nice thing is that if you continue in the hobby you start to accrue tools and skills that make everything easier and those moments start to become fewer and farther between.

I do agree with that. I starting getting frustrated with this build before getting to that point... that was just the proverbial straw that broke the camel's back for me.

when i built mine, the one and only fustration (like on every 3dhs build for me) i screwed pull-pull setup lol... i didnt check and had a wire wrapped around ballink.. and i noticed it only after i had caed rudder servo side...

Originally Posted by rimaarts

when i built mine, the one and only fustration (like on every 3dhs build for me) i screwed pull-pull setup lol... i didnt check and had a wire wrapped around ballink.. and i noticed it only after i had caed rudder servo side...

Yea - seems like I screw one thing up on just about every build too so I know your pain!

On this one I had issues with the horizontal stab but it wasn't really my issue. This was a garage sale Extra and there was a slight issue with the fuse where the cutout for the horizontal stab goes so it would fit in very well. Plus I was missing a tail wheel but I just snagged one from my crashed 51" Slick.

I just got my new Castle ICE 100 ESC for the plane and Aero-model tested and returned my A40-12s. I've never setup a castle esc before. I have the castle-link but there are so many settings there. Anyone have any idea what timing, pwm, etc I should use for the A40-12S?

*edit: I just hooked everything up soldered the EC3s on that Castle 100. What a pain that was!! I had to cut the wires trim about 10% off the diameter of the 10awg wire so that I could fit it into the EC3's bullet.

Am I an idiot for trimming a small amount of the wires? It is still 12awg in size.

Castle logging on a fresh 4S 3900mAh TP pack shows 68 amps and 885watts. Does that sound right?
The good news is I no longer have any acceleration problems. All the motor studdering/clunking and stalling is gone YAY!
I used 16khz PWM, normal timing(5), and medium throttle response. I set the cutoff to 3.3V soft, figuring it'd be better to lose a battery than the whole plane. Is that a good idea?
I also used the auto throttle sensing? is that good for a plane or should I use the fixed end points?

-Brian

Originally Posted by kalmon

I also used the auto throttle sensing? is that good for a plane or should I use the fixed end points? -Brian

Fixed end points has at least one benefit. "Auto throttle" requires you to run the throttle up to full throttle before each flight to enable the Castle ESC to calibrate the range of your throttle for smooth operation.

When you click on the "?" next to the functions within your Castle Link program when your Castle Link is connected to your computer you'll get helpful and sometimes useful information.

Hope this helps!

Originally Posted by Trill

Fixed end points has at least one benefit. "Auto throttle" requires you to run the throttle up to full throttle before each flight to enable the Castle ESC to calibrate the range of your throttle for smooth operation.

It's part of my preflight routine, and I've caught power system issues before getting in the air by doing it.

Originally Posted by G.P.

It's part of my preflight routine, and I've caught power system issues before getting in the air by doing it.

And do you also hold the plane nose up in the air to see if it is going to lean out??

Actually, while I don't always do it (and I should), I totally agree with you Greg....

SteveT