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#31 |
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Cheif Bottlewasher
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: In an Igloo
Posts: 797
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I did it cheaper than that ..
I was cool here last night ..and I decided to light up the wood stove ..theres a nook that the basement door is in and its a high spot in the basement ...nail in wall ,hung the girl up ..got the fire going ..turned up the stove fan .. left the through door open..after an hour it was 38C up there where the boat was .. ..left it there all night ..this morning was much better ..and this evening she's solid as a rock ..So thanks toes and dnchvs for calming the nerves .... once shes cleaned up and primed ..running gear in its place ..I'm gonna resin the inside as well .. |
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#32 | |
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King of The Moon
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: NYC
Posts: 667
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#33 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Conway,Myrtle Beach SC
Posts: 169
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It will be easier on you if you will put one coat of resin on the wood first and let it cure out. The first coat seals the wood. After it is cured apply another thin coat, then apply the cloth and a wet coat on top of the cloth. By applying the cloth on top of a wet coat you are less likely to get air bubbles. While its still wet use a fiberglass roller and roll over the surface to get all of the air bubbles out.
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#34 |
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King of The Moon
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: NYC
Posts: 667
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wow. sounds like a good plan, but a lot of work. i have a seguin by midwest tug i built more than ten years ago by my method and pretty perfect finish with no problems so far. but your method sure seems thorough. no air bubbles if you work in small increments, and good adhesion directly into the fibers of the wood. whatever works!
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#35 |
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Cheif Bottlewasher
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: In an Igloo
Posts: 797
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Another question
What do you guy's/gals use for a bulkhead fitting to hook up a fire monitor? I had thought about flaring a piece of brass tube ..but its so thin i wouldnt be able to thread it to get a tight fit against the hull..also it wouldnt have a barbed fitting on the end ..meaning the hose would be at risk of comming of .. Thinking i should use a screen or filter ..probabley one of those cheapie inline fuel filters at Wall Mart..you know the clear canister type... |
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#36 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Conway,Myrtle Beach SC
Posts: 169
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#37 | |
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Sea Dragon-Lover
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: PDX, OR
Posts: 5,886
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solder some mesh over the opening to screen the water. Then solder another washer to a second tube that will telescope over the first. Once the first tube has been run through the hull and glued in place, the second tube will slide over the first tube on the interior, and can be epoxied, or fiberglassed into place.
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#38 |
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Cheif Bottlewasher
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: In an Igloo
Posts: 797
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Thank you for that tutorial Umi !! ..I know where to get the brass parts ..
The screen looks alot like the stuff used in Diesel fuel pre-filter's/water separators ..I'll go with that ..there's a shop next door to work I can get them out of the dumpster What did you use to secure the hose to the brass tube? In the mean time Ive sanded the high spots of the hull ..now I'm doing my impression of "Cake Boss" and iced the whole thing with a skim coat of bondo..(wait till you see my choclate filling ---EP2 GLI ) .. I'll sand it with 150grit ..a little spot putty .primer and i can move into the engine room and start fitting her out ..
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#39 |
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Sea Dragon-Lover
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: PDX, OR
Posts: 5,886
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To secure the hose to the bulkhead, I solder a brass collar over the
top of the intake tube. The hose has to be forced over it and then down onto the smaller tube proper... Then I wrap it with a zip tie.
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#40 |
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Cheif Bottlewasher
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: In an Igloo
Posts: 797
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A little more progress...
And hit the hardware store for a few bits to build a bulkhead inlet for the monitor as Umi suggested.. |
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#41 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Near Muncie, IN.
Posts: 154
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Hey coffee, that hull is lookin great.
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#42 |
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Cheif Bottlewasher
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: In an Igloo
Posts: 797
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Thanks catfish ....power tools make a huge difference...As it stands there it needs some spot putty , a finer sanding ..another shot of primer and the base coat
What bug's me now though is where to get satin finish oxide red paint not primer..and exterior at that ..ever use actual hull paint ? More to figure out .. Also I think its X-nay on the gear box and motor.... I noticed a motor on one of the fan's in the tractor ..rather big ,,swings a 6 inch fan , its not a blender motor it may spin 4000/4500rpm,and dosent pop a 5 amp fuse even after all day on bust.. the whole fan is 20$ at the shop ..I may go with a pair of those direct ..versus the Dumas gear... My props are 2 1/2 inch ..should be OK ..I think or it may be a Viking funeral for Shelly
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#43 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 6
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i got 3 inch props for mone
but i haven't finished the hull yet it's ready for glass the dumas gears are soooo loud |
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#44 |
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Cheif Bottlewasher
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: In an Igloo
Posts: 797
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This is the general propulsion arrangement
Dumas 2 1/2 in prop ,shaft, and stuffing box.. Dumas dog bone connector the motor came out of a fan .. 12V ,2 in dia, 2 3/4 long ..12 poles, 1/4 shaft Think it will swing the props with some to spare... ya tink's
Last edited by more coffee; Sep 22, 2009 at 05:58 PM. |
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#45 |
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Grumpa Tom
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: 5th & Main, Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 13,708
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That motor looks pretty stout to me!
![]() Do you have an ammeter? |
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