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Old Sep 15, 2009, 10:29 PM
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branwell's Avatar
Northern VA
Joined Apr 2006
90 Posts
Got the Rudder, Elevator and Spoiler servos installed today. Hyperion digitals.
Am using two channels for the spoilers. Was unable to get the linkages such that a simple Y would work.

Motor should arrive tomorrow. A Hacker with a gear box. Will be nice to see how it all lays out.

I tried a range test this afternoon on 2.4.
Put the receiver and remote receiver in the fuse and did a 30 pace range check moving the glider around all its axes.
While it never lost contact, with the carbon boom facing the radio, the frame loss count went through the roof.
Am thinking putting the remotes in the wing is looking like a good idea.
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Old Sep 16, 2009, 07:55 PM
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branwell's Avatar
Northern VA
Joined Apr 2006
90 Posts
Got the firewall drilled and the motor installed.

The rudder, elevator and spoiler servos are mounted.

The wiring loom to the rear carries 4 wires instead of 6.
A +, -, and two signal wires.

Next comes a few battery configurations to find the lightest setup that will balance and provide enough amps.
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Old Sep 16, 2009, 08:43 PM
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Terre Haute, Indiana, USA
Joined Aug 2004
959 Posts
You are moving right along! How much power are you shooting for in your AVA?
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Old Sep 16, 2009, 09:47 PM
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branwell's Avatar
Northern VA
Joined Apr 2006
90 Posts
Hi FF,

The exact battery / prop configuration depends on how it balances, but I plan to start with either a 2 or 3 cell Lipo and an 18-10 or 16-10 prop.
Another possibility is a 4C A123 pack.

I am not sure what Watt range those combinations would yield, but it should be pretty good.
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Old Sep 17, 2009, 07:07 AM
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itsmeGriff's Avatar
Peoria, IL USA
Joined Sep 2009
29 Posts
D-Sub Connector Use

Quote:
Originally Posted by branwell
To reduce the number of connecters and keep things tidy, I am planning to use an old style computer printer parallel port as a connecter. One mounted in the fuse and one in the wing. What do you think?

See pic.
Hey Branwell, I can weigh in on the D-Sub connector type/style. If you use this type of connector, be sure to use the "Milled Type Contacts" (not to be read as "MIL-" or "MIL-Spec, though most of the "Mil-Spec" D-Sub type contacts like these are "milled".)
The cheaper (commercial) grade type of these contacts are usually made of "stamped" materials, (like the ones you find in Radio Shack), instead of "milled" solid stock/materials. The reason why I am pointing this out is because of my 24+ years of experience as an Avionics Eng/Tech. Many intermittent avionics connections and problems were traced to using this style of "stamped" contact utilized by cheap installation kits, inappropriate connector selection or just plain cheapskates! Yes people try to save a few bucks in full scale aviation too!
I'm especially emphasizing about the "socket contact". If you view the "Stamped Socket Contact" pic, you will notice where the pin enters the socket contact, the opening is split up both sides of the contact. This allows the socket to open/expand and grip the pin contact in normal use. The connector housing interior and face opening helps to limit the distance the socket contact can open/spread as the pin contact is inserted. But in frequent removal, high vibration (low or high frequency) and misalignment situations, the socket opens/spreads further than what it should. Thus causing intermittent, high resistance or open electrical circuit(s) in this type of socket contact. This usually happens over a period of time. But I have seen it with newly assembled connectors too. The connector interior and face openings can vary due to wear, damage and manufacturing tolerances. Believe or not, these small variances in the connector face and in the connector itself causes "bad electrical connections" due to the socket contact spreading too much... thus losing proper contact tension with the mating pin contact.
This is why I recommend using "milled contacts". They don't rely on the connector housing to limit the spreading of the socket opening. The milled socket contact utilizes a precisely fitted sleeve/barrel that is fitted over the opening of the contact during it's manufacturing. The sleeve/barrel limits how far the opening spreads. This allows the "milled" contact tension to be controlled independent of the connector interior and face opening tolerances.

Ref "Milled Socket Contact" pic. Notice the "silver colored outer sleeve/barrel".

These type of "milled contacts" have a very high degree of reliability and seldom loose contact tension due to frequent removal, high vibration (low or high frequency) and misalignment situations. When I use D-sub connectors, the "milled contacts" are the only type that I use for those specific reasons. I'm not just talking avionics use. Heck, in many ways our RC electrical connections are an avionics type connection that need to be solid and reliable for our safety and enjoyment!

As a further note, also take notice of some of the "commercial" grade D-sub "solder cup" connectors. The contacts in these connectors are not removable like the stamped and milled connector contacts. These contacts are permanently fixed during manufacturing. The sockets contact they use in some of these connectors styles also have the "split socket" design. They too have given me "fits" over the years, though not as numerous. There are solder cup designs that do not use the split socket design.

Whew!!..... I hope this helps....... Griff
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Old Sep 17, 2009, 07:22 AM
RIP Ric
Andy W's Avatar
Marietta, GA
Joined Jun 1999
43,312 Posts
You missed the pics of the milled connector..
..a

edit: there you go! Thx!
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Last edited by Andy W; Sep 17, 2009 at 07:28 AM.
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Old Sep 17, 2009, 07:57 AM
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itsmeGriff's Avatar
Peoria, IL USA
Joined Sep 2009
29 Posts
Just a little confused..

Hey guys,

My last post I attached four pics.

Why did two of them post as "Attach Thumbnails" and the other two post as "Attached Images"??... Thanks for the help...Griff
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Old Sep 17, 2009, 08:53 AM
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branwell's Avatar
Northern VA
Joined Apr 2006
90 Posts
Hi Griff,

Thank you so much for the info.

I had a look online and am not able to tell what is milled and what is not.

Do you happen to have a link to a milled connector I can buy?

Many thanks.
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Old Sep 17, 2009, 07:07 PM
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branwell's Avatar
Northern VA
Joined Apr 2006
90 Posts
A prop and 38mm Vladimir spinner arrived today.

The plane balances with 3 x A123 2300ma cells in a line and a 2 cell A123 1100 pack for the receiver.

I'm thinking the three cell A123 pack with the 18-12 might be worth a try. Will run it up with a Watt meter to make sure nothing is overloaded. The 18-12 might be a bit much at that voltage.

I also picked up a Spectrum 9300 composite fuse receiver, the one with the long antennas. With it mounted in the fuse, antennas taped along the inside and the remote on top of the wing pod ( between the two center ribs ), there is no area of high frame loss.
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Old Sep 17, 2009, 11:27 PM
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John Walter's Avatar
USA, IL, Naperville
Joined Feb 2003
857 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by branwell
To reduce the number of connecters and keep things tidy, I am planning to use an old style computer printer parallel port as a connecter. One mounted in the fuse and one in the wing. What do you think?

See pic.
Whay use a DB25 25-pin connector? How about a DB9 9-pin instead. Smaller, lighter, and still plenty of connectors for your application.
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Old Sep 18, 2009, 12:15 AM
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branwell's Avatar
Northern VA
Joined Apr 2006
90 Posts
Hi,

I've changed the radio install plan to not include remotes out in the wing.
This means I only need to connect the two servos and can do that with a single deans connecter. Very happy about that I am..

Thanks you for the suggestion though.
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Old Sep 18, 2009, 08:37 AM
RIP Ric
Andy W's Avatar
Marietta, GA
Joined Jun 1999
43,312 Posts
I am thinking of going the other way - put all of the radio and remotes into the wing, and run extensions down into the fuse for the motor and tail servos (3 channels)..
..a
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Old Sep 18, 2009, 08:55 AM
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Belgium, Flemish Region, Oosterzele
Joined Dec 2001
5,484 Posts
Did that in my Pylon racer, one small disadvantage: can't test motor without putting on the wing....
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Old Sep 18, 2009, 08:58 AM
RIP Ric
Andy W's Avatar
Marietta, GA
Joined Jun 1999
43,312 Posts
I never use the radio to test motors, in or out of models.

I use one of these:
..a
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Old Sep 18, 2009, 10:27 AM
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Ralph Weaver's Avatar
Indianapolis, IN USA
Joined Nov 2000
2,305 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by branwell
I tried a range test this afternoon on 2.4.
Put the receiver and remote receiver in the fuse and did a 30 pace range check moving the glider around all its axes.
While it never lost contact, with the carbon boom facing the radio, the frame loss count went through the roof.
Am thinking putting the remotes in the wing is looking like a good idea.
Even with a 2.4 friendly fuse, on my carbon boom planes I stick the whiskers out each side just so one of them is always visible from the rear.
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